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Yet another Snap-on restoration

H0w13

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Joined
Jul 16, 2021
Messages
21
Location
NJ
Hello all! I bought this Snap-on toolbox at an estate sale the other day for $80 (I think it was a good deal?) and plan on restoring it.

Is it at all possible to remove the hinge pin so that I can take the lid completely off? It would make my life a LOT easier. I've tried tapping at it with an awl from either end but it doesn't want to budge.

Pics (cleanup has already begun):
IMG_20210716_165810.jpg
IMG_20210716_165823.jpg

Also, if anyone has any additional information about this particular tool box that would be awesome. There was a matching lower cabinet that I didn't buy, it was sitting on a wet garage floor and the bottom and lower sides were rusted all the way through. This doesn't seem to have any model info on it, just the "Made in the U.S.A." stamp on the back.
 
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Walkers

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May 17, 2021
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Cave Creek Az
Sure just use a pin punch to get it started. Unless it is heavily grooved from use it will come out with some gentle pulling with some vise grips.
 
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H0w13

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Joined
Jul 16, 2021
Messages
21
Location
NJ
Thanks! It's definitely the K55, the inside of the lid and the latches match up.

I suspect the pin is probably grooved at this point, especially since the lid is misaligned (has a bit of an "overbite") but I'll see if a pin punch works any better than an awl, it might.

I'll post updates as I go.
 

Provincial

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Sep 21, 2011
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Near Salem, OR
Rather than a pin punch, you need a punch with a lot of meat near the tip. What I would suggest is to modify a damaged punch. Take one that is at least 1/4" diameter near the end, but which tapers much larger (the faster it gets "fat" the better) and grind a tip that will go in the hole and allow you to move the hinge rod at least 1/8" before it runs out of clearance. Then follow up with the pin punch and pulling with vise grips when you get enough exposed to get them to grip.

The reason for this is the long, skinny, pin punch flexes with the blow, and doesn't transfer all the energy to the pin. It is also very easy to bend the punch when doing this. The short working end I described reduces this effect and alllows all the energy to reach the pin.

It is quite common for the piano hinge halves to have been swaged on each end to help keep the pin from backing out. Look closely and see if the pin hole has been closed up by this process. Sometimes you have to expand this area to get the pin out.
 

Packard V8

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Mar 16, 2009
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7,380
Location
Spokane, WA
Spray well with a penetrating lubricant.

Stand the box vertically on the floor, with the lid aligned and latched as best you can. It's much easier to punch vertically and the effort is all going into the hinge pin.

Alternate trying one end and then the other. Sometimes one way works easier.

jack vines
 

Oldtuleguy

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Nov 4, 2017
Messages
10,459
Not bad advise. I have replaced a couple hinges. Just get a piano hinge from the hardware store and spot weld it on.
 
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H0w13

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Jul 16, 2021
Messages
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Location
NJ
Pin punch worked great, thanks for the suggestion! I'll also never reach for my awl again when removing hinge pins, it makes SUCH a difference that I never expected.

Got some work on cleaning up the box over the past week. This definitely isn't going to be a professional-grate restoration, there are too many bangs and dents and I'm not that great at spray painting.

Cleaned and sanded down:
IMG_20210718_135346.jpg

Hit the badge with some automotive compound and polish, because why not:
IMG_20210718_145032.jpg

Soaked all the rails in Simple Green then sprayed them with some dry lube after cleaning off:
IMG_20210718_144105.jpg

So. Much. Degreasing.
IMG_20210723_135534.jpg

Hit the drawers with some rust reformer before some scuffing and spraying:
4000-3000-max.jpg
 
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H0w13

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Jul 16, 2021
Messages
21
Location
NJ
Alright, so after taking some vacation and moving as little as possible through a few 100+ degree heatwaves, I've finally finished!

With all the dents and pitting of the metal, this wasn't going to be a terrific restoration. However I'm still super pleased with how it came out.

Lock is still degreasing.
IMG_20210818_195325.jpg

Badge looks much better, although the shiny new rivets don't quite match. They'll dull in time. Also, the front door fits much nicer now.
IMG_20210818_195334.jpg

IMG_20210818_195423.jpg

Drawer bottoms have a LOT of pitting from all the garbage that was sitting in here for years (decades?). I'm cutting drawer liners so this will all be covered.
IMG_20210818_195442.jpg

Latches cleaned up much better than I expected, just gave them an overnight soak in some Simple Green then a coating of WD-40 to prevent them from rusting.
IMG_20210818_195447.jpg
 
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H0w13

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Jul 16, 2021
Messages
21
Location
NJ
What paint did you use, or did I miss that? Do you have a picture of the hings side apart? Looks ready to fill just about.
Funny you should ask about paint... I had no idea we were in the midst of a spray paint shortage when I started this project.

My local Home Depot only had Rustoleum Regal Red available, so I bought all 6 cans that were on the shelf. It worked out to be just enough, I have about half a can left.

I went back through my old pictures and unfortunately I don't have any of the hinge taken apart. It was just one looooooooong pin that runs the whole length of the box. This made it super fun to put back in, since tapping it from the end just bent it. I ended up carefully clamping on Vise-Grips about 2 inches from the end of the pin and tapping on the pliers to slide the pin into position. Then I moved the pliers back and repeated over and over until the pin was about 3/4 of the way in. By that point there wasn't enough flex to be much of a problem and I just tapped the end the rest of the way.

I did find two more pictures from the project that I forgot to post, nothing too exciting though.

Being supervised:
IMG_20210815_124557.jpg

Whyyyyyyyyyyyyyy?
IMG_20210802_131601.jpg
 
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