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Yet another Steevo workbench build

rattle_snake

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Jun 25, 2015
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5,145
Location
Chandler, AZ
Some details and lesson learned on my bench build...

Built close to the original design due to blatant plagiarism. My existing bench was 36” high and comfortable to me so design goal was to minimize height. The legs are 34” which is about as short as possible given the overall height of the HF44 (34-5/8). The threaded feet and nylon insert adds a minimum of 1-3/4”, and the top is 1-1/2 MDF + 1/8” steel so minimum overall height is about 37-1/2”.

It is possible to reduce overall height by another ½” by routing relief grooves in the bottom of the MDF for the ridge on the tool box top. One could also underlap the leg bottoms for the threaded inserts. I chose to keep it simple. I’m just under 6’ tall.

All steel is 1/8” thick. Tubing is 2”, angle is 1-1/2”. Lower angle supports are 42-1/2”, which if welded on inside to make it look nice is too tight and may need some grinding to fit the 44-1/8” box. I also stole the bolt-on front upper rail idea from someone here as well, which allows the boxes to be loaded much easier. I welded ½-13 nuts in the tubing to support.

The HF44 is about 18” deep but I wanted a 32” deep work surface with a 2-1/2” front overhang I made the horizontal tubing 24” which yields a total frame depth of 31”. A flat bottom clamping surface can be achieved with a 1” flat bar on the lower front edge.

Simply cut and weld the pieces together. One can also agonize over getting everything square in every direction simultaneously. If you don’t have a flat surface to build on, shim and level as needed. Slap some paint on it.
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The top is made from 2 layers of ¾” MDF. I cut them to 93”x32” and then glued-n-screwed. I used a foam roller to apply yellow glue to one side, should have done both. The screws are on the bottom. I painted the edges and bottom perimeter to protect the MDF from spilled liquids and resulting expansion. Went a little OCD and did the vice holes too like a via on a circuit board.
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The steel is 11 ga (0.120”), aka 1/8” cold rolled. I found a local (PHX, AZ) place that could sheer and break into a counter top. The last bend on one short side slipped and was in the wrong spot. They stamped it back flat and re-bent. I inspected, accepted and saved some $$, BUT when I went to fit it on the wood I realized how jacked up it really was. Since this is a work bench that will get beat and abused I chose to go with it and test my metal working skills. I massage it back to flat with some therapeutic hammering, and welded up the corners.

I pondered a receiver style vice mount but chose to stay with mounting to the top surface. I countersunk the bottom for ½”-13 carriage bolts, and assembled the top. At this time only the vice bolts hold the steel down and it can be easily removed.

Note that these benched are not light weight:
HF44, 250# each
Frame 100#
MDF 150#
steel top #100
850# + vice Empty
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I refrained from painting my HF 5" vice but I did disassemble, turd polish and lube it.
 

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PugetDude

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Mar 13, 2013
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Superstition Mountains, AZ
Nice work; I love these HF bench threads.
Did you flip the third picture? Vise looks like it's actually on the opposite corner of the bench in the last photo...

BTW, Professional HF Turd Polishing require a complete badge removal and repaint...:D
 

bullnerd

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Sep 17, 2012
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5,690
Location
Jersey
Nice job!

Very nice shop!

You gotta fix that wire going to the tv! Its killin me! LOL!
 
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rattle_snake

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Jun 25, 2015
Messages
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Location
Chandler, AZ
Nice work; I love these HF bench threads.
Did you flip the third picture? Vise looks like it's actually on the opposite corner of the bench in the last photo...

BTW, Professional HF Turd Polishing require a complete badge removal and repaint...:D
third pic is the bottom side of the MDF.
I initially mis-read your last sentence as "Professional HF Turd Polishing requires a badge"
I'm like, when did this start?! badge with a license? ****!
Nice job!

Very nice shop!

You gotta fix that wire going to the tv! Its killin me! LOL!
25' monitor cable is in the mail I swear! Have to add pass through tubes large enough for DE-15/VGA to get cables up on enclosed shelf like the rest of the wiring. Should have put in power, video and Ethernet in the first place, but TV may not stay there....

The bench turned out fantastic Justin. Ready for years of use.
Thanks again for info you provided from your bench build(s).
 

cspcrx

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May 2, 2014
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608
Location
Phoenix, AZ
That's great. I am in the Phoenix area who did the steel top and if you don't mind what did it run you?

I am planning mine now.
 
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rattle_snake

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Jun 25, 2015
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Chandler, AZ
That's great. I am in the Phoenix area who did the steel top and if you don't mind what did it run you?

I am planning mine now.
Capitol Engineering. $300 - damage discount. They have a 12', 400 ton press among other things. Metal Masters is another but could do only 14 ga.

Looks stellar!
Great looking workbench!

Thanks! I like the look of the cold vs hot roll mill scale. price is basically the same and matches the walls.
 

inphx

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Feb 23, 2012
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Phoenix/Scottsdale AZ
Nice.

Hello, I too would like the counter top as you did it. i am in Phoenix.

"The steel is 11 ga (0.120”), aka 1/8” cold rolled. I found a local (PHX, AZ) place that could sheer and break into a counter top."
Can you share the steel source and vendor to shear it?

I am looking at 16' , maybe un wieldy to procure , move and install but hope i can do it.
 
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purplezr2

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Jun 1, 2010
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Central MN
Nice.

Hello, I too would like the counter top as you did it. i am in Phoenix.

"The steel is 11 ga (0.120”), aka 1/8” cold rolled. I found a local (PHX, AZ) place that could sheer and break into a counter top."
Can you share the steel source and vendor to shear it?

I am looking at 16' , maybe un wieldy to procure , move and install but hope i can do it.

Info is the post above yours.
 

torched

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Joined
Feb 20, 2013
Messages
49
Location
Colorado
First let me say, very nice build and a great shop! This next part is going to come across as overly critical but it’s really more that I feel I’m missing something. Why build an entire steel frame to hold these cabinets? I have a similar setup with the Harbor Freight cabinets (thanks to Stevo for the original idea) but I was able to bolt the cabinets directly to one another using the factory pre drilled holes and replaced the castors with Home made leveling legs. The cabinets are designed to bare the weight of a loaded cabinet at the point of the castors, so why change it? Again, I mean no disrespect but I just don’t understand the use of that much time and material to build something that to me looks redundant.
 

zmotorsports

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Northern Utah
First let me say, very nice build and a great shop! This next part is going to come across as overly critical but it’s really more that I feel I’m missing something. Why build an entire steel frame to hold these cabinets? I have a similar setup with the Harbor Freight cabinets (thanks to Stevo for the original idea) but I was able to bolt the cabinets directly to one another using the factory pre drilled holes and replaced the castors with Home made leveling legs. The cabinets are designed to bare the weight of a loaded cabinet at the point of the castors, so why change it? Again, I mean no disrespect but I just don’t understand the use of that much time and material to build something that to me looks redundant.

I can't (and won't) speak for Justin as I'm sure he has his own reasoning, but for me it came down to rigidity. My buddy did exactly what you described by bolting the boxes together and then a top. Although he used a wood base to get them up off of the ground rather than leveling feet. Again, I can't speak for Justin but there is quite a difference between the rigidity and solid feeling of my benches vs. my buddies. The footprint itself makes if more rigid as the box is only 22" in depth whereas my framework and benchtop are 30" in depth. Every time he comes over to my shop and I help him with something he says he kicks himself for not building a framework for the bench rather than merely using the boxes themselves.

Personal preference would be the reasoning I would say. You chose to do it one way, Justin (and myself as well as many others) chose to go to the next level for rigidity, nothing says one way is right or one way is wrong, just different approaches.
 
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rattle_snake

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Jun 25, 2015
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Chandler, AZ
First let me say, very nice build and a great shop! This next part is going to come across as overly critical but it’s really more that I feel I’m missing something. Why build an entire steel frame to hold these cabinets? I have a similar setup with the Harbor Freight cabinets (thanks to Stevo for the original idea) but I was able to bolt the cabinets directly to one another using the factory pre drilled holes and replaced the castors with Home made leveling legs. The cabinets are designed to bare the weight of a loaded cabinet at the point of the castors, so why change it? Again, I mean no disrespect but I just don’t understand the use of that much time and material to build something that to me looks redundant.

A good question actually. Basically the reasons Mike has stated, mainly the depth issue. The deeper frame is more stable for a 36" deep top.

The space behind the cabinets can be used to store long items or materials, assuming you can access it. Until my welding table is done (in progress now) this bench also served as my fab table and I wanted it as flat and solid as possible.

Overall the bench has worked out well. The vice is very solid and I can exert a lot of force on it without the bench moving.
 

Stuart in MN

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Sep 8, 2005
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22,992
Location
Minneapolis
Nice build. I was at a HF store last week, and saw their tool chests and cabinets for the first time in person - I have to admit I was very impressed with their build quality, and for the price you can't beat them.
 

Mr_B

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Nov 21, 2016
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Reading
The bolt on angle iron front lip is good design idea on this build.
Makes getting boxes in easy and supports the worktop edge .
They look superb , the vise needs painting black ...
 

Mr_B

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Nov 21, 2016
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Nice build. I was at a HF store last week, and saw their tool chests and cabinets for the first time in person - I have to admit I was very impressed with their build quality, and for the price you can't beat them.

For full price better options are in same ballpark, for coupon prices they become pretty good deal .
 

eyeball

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Joined
Jul 14, 2011
Messages
407
The bolt on angle iron front lip is good design idea on this build.
Makes getting boxes in easy and supports the worktop edge .
They look superb , the vise needs painting black ...



That is a very good idea.

I tackled the same problem with a different approach.

I have two separate boxes / frames with a knee hole in between. Since with my layout I am only lifting one box at a time, I put the box on the ground upside down then lower the frame also upside down over the top. I then simply roll them over until right side up.
 
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