Yet another truss question

[akpingel]

I would like to insulate my shop, and to do so I am leaning towards putting in a OSB ceiling and blown insulation, soffitt and ridge vents, etc. I am concerned about the weight that would be added. I'm wondering if this a legitimate concern or am I under estimating the capabilities of this structure? Would I be better off getting a PE to look at this? Just looking for anyone that may be able to tell me I am concerned about nothing versus finding/hiring a pro to come look at it.

Shop is 30' by 50'. Truss span 30'

These trusses are I think fink trusses
24" OC, of 2 by 4.
Overhang is about 14 inches
There are two layers of shingles on the roof
The walls are 2 by 4 with OSB sheathing.
Additional 1.6-2psf??
4/12 pitch... but I need to verify this.

Here is a stamp I found on one, haven't spotted any other types of stamps yet:
2019-01-02_01-00-56 by Alex Pingel, on Flickr

Here are a couple of pictures, I can get better ones by getting up on the ladder if that helps:
2019-01-02_01-17-58 by Alex Pingel, on Flickr

2019-01-02_01-17-33 by Alex Pingel, on Flickr

Thanks,
Alex

 

[rsanter]

If it was me I would insulate at the bottom of the roof deck and then paint everything including the trusses
It looks cool and it will also allow you to put the lights between the trusses so they are not hanging down and you can store ladders above

Other than that, if you use 1/4” OSB and insulation that ceiling structure can handle that weight

 

[rburke65]

No idea....not an engineer. Stop at your local lumber yard or HD...Lowe’s.....they have span charts, etc., and I’m sure they can give you a lot better answer to you adding weight.

 

[spudley]

Have you considered white vertical metal siding? Very little weight.
That said, most trusses are designed to carry the weight of at least a drywall ceiling. 5/8" drywall, commonly used on 24" center spacing, weighs more than 1/2" OSB.
At 24" ctrs, 1/4" OSB with insulation will likely sag.
But I'm not an engineer and I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn last night so...

 

[Jlbc212]

Have you considered white vertical metal siding? Very little weight.
That said, most trusses are designed to carry the weight of at least a drywall ceiling. 5/8" drywall, commonly used on 24" center spacing, weighs more than 1/2" OSB.
At 24" ctrs, 1/4" OSB with insulation will likely sag.
But I'm not an engineer and I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn last night so...

^^^ this ... every truss I have seen is designed to carry the weight of standard ceiling materials and insulation. Consider using ribbed metal roofing sheets. The metal is easy to install with a drywall lift. Nail or screw wood strapping to the bottom of the trusses and perpendicular to the trusses. Space the strapping a distance to coincide with the width of the metal roofing panels or at least 24" o.c. if you use 1/2" or 5/8" drywall.

 

[akpingel]

Thanks for the replies-

Have you considered white vertical metal siding? Very little weight.
That said, most trusses are designed to carry the weight of at least a drywall ceiling. 5/8" drywall, commonly used on 24" center spacing, weighs more than 1/2" OSB.
At 24" ctrs, 1/4" OSB with insulation will likely sag.
But I'm not an engineer and I didn't stay at a Holiday Inn last night so...

^^^ this ... every truss I have seen is designed to carry the weight of standard ceiling materials and insulation. Consider using ribbed metal roofing sheets. The metal is easy to install with a drywall lift. Nail or screw wood strapping to the bottom of the trusses and perpendicular to the trusses. Space the strapping a distance to coincide with the width of the metal roofing panels or at least 24" o.c. if you use 1/2" or 5/8" drywall.

Thanks- are you referring to the sag in OSB as opposed to the truss and OSB?

I have looked a little at the metal panels and I do like that they are easy to install and it seems much easier for one person (I would be doing most of the work alone). I think the biggest detractor for me is the finish... but then again maybe I could paint them with a flat paint...

If it was me I would insulate at the bottom of the roof deck and then paint everything including the trusses
It looks cool and it will also allow you to put the lights between the trusses so they are not hanging down and you can store ladders above

Other than that, if you use 1/4” OSB and insulation that ceiling structure can handle that weight

I considered this a while ago but I tabled it due to the fact the thickness of the truss is 4" and I would need to add spacers for insulation plus airflow. Also, not sure if I could leave the backing of the insulation safely exposed?

 

[Jlbc212]

The white metal roof panels I used to finish the ceiling in my garage have a nice gloss finish - no need to paint. The reflective white glossy surface helps to lighten the entire garage.

 

[matt_i]

My take on this is that its not an exotic span and is the classic internal "W" shape that's pretty efficient at handling generic loads.

The grade stamp of #1 SYP (southern yellow pine) is a high grade of framing timber.

I would do the ribbed metal as suggested in previous posts. But I'd blow in cellulose loose fill insulation as opposed to trying to hang fiberglass. You'd need at least one access hole, two would probably be better. You can definitely overfill the cavity to 9 or 10" thickness of insulation, just be careful over at the truss heel where you don't want to block airflow.

If super worried then reducing 1 thickness of shingles (a tear off yes) is about the same weight as 5/8" drywall (comparing 2#/sqft roughly to 3 bundles/SQUARE @ 80 lbs/bundle which is around 2.5#/sqft). Granted not apples to apples reduction as its loaded top chord and not bottom chord but the truss is bearing less.

 

[theoldwizard1]

Regardless of what you use for a ceiling, I would add a 2x4 between the bottom chords every 4 feet just to have something to nail to.

 

[akpingel]

My take on this is that its not an exotic span and is the classic internal "W" shape that's pretty efficient at handling generic loads.

The grade stamp of #1 SYP (southern yellow pine) is a high grade of framing timber.

I would do the ribbed metal as suggested in previous posts. But I'd blow in cellulose loose fill insulation as opposed to trying to hang fiberglass. You'd need at least one access hole, two would probably be better. You can definitely overfill the cavity to 9 or 10" thickness of insulation, just be careful over at the truss heel where you don't want to block airflow.

If super worried then reducing 1 thickness of shingles (a tear off yes) is about the same weight as 5/8" drywall (comparing 2#/sqft roughly to 3 bundles/SQUARE @ 80 lbs/bundle which is around 2.5#/sqft). Granted not apples to apples reduction as its loaded top chord and not bottom chord but the truss is bearing less.

I thought about tearing the shingles off when I saw what their weight PSF is- holy ****! Since the second layer is still in excellent shape it will have to say as-is. Who knows it may take 10 years to figure out what to do inside and it may become a viable answer by then.

 

[spudley]

Thanks- are you referring to the sag in OSB as opposed to the truss and OSB?

Yes, possible sag in 1/4" OSB at 24" spacing. If your shop gets humid or if you blow in insulation I'd go with 1/2" OSB or 5/8" sheetrock.
As Matt i stated, you have No 1 southern yellow pine in those trusses. That's about as good as it gets for strength over long spans so I'd be comfortable with either OSB or sheetrock.

Occupant RJ recently posted a pix of an OSB ceiling he did. He routed the edges of 4 x 8 panels, painted, spaced carefully and screwed in. Looks like a fair amount of work but it turned out really nice.

 

[GoodStuff]

So... not an engineer but I have been a contractor for 24 years now... Trusses are always manufactured and engineered to support a drywalled ceiling. OSB and drywall are roughly the same weight. The only time this is an issue is with a pole barn where the trusses are spanned farther apart. At 24" OC with your trusses you will have no issues with the weight of the OSB, nor the insulation above.

 

[akpingel]

So... not an engineer but I have been a contractor for 24 years now... Trusses are always manufactured and engineered to support a drywalled ceiling. OSB and drywall are roughly the same weight. The only time this is an issue is with a pole barn where the trusses are spanned farther apart. At 24" OC with your trusses you will have no issues with the weight of the OSB, nor the insulation above.

Thanks, I appreciate your perspective.
I've spent the last day reading up on metal panels and I think I may do them... Though I have a pallet of OSB just sitting here

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

 

[rburke65]

The ceiling liners are great. Once you screw them to the ceiling you are done. No sanding, paint, etc. Great light r3flection....light weight. Perfect.

 

[spudley]

Thanks, I appreciate your perspective.
I've spent the last day reading up on metal panels and I think I may do them... Though I have a pallet of OSB just sitting here

Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk

If you do choose the OSB, you'll need a pallet of paint. That OSB ***** it up!

 

[kumquat]

Another non-engineer here who thinks that trusses can carry the weight og drywall or OSB.

Make sure you install a vapour barrier on the warm side of the drywall/osb.

 

[ExxWhy]

I will also say I love the metal panels. Hang them and you are done. Forever. No painting, no muss, no fuss. Look great IMO.

 

[Augus7us]

I've read on here several times, when researching how I'm going to insulate my ceiling, that not all truses are rated to carry drywall and insulation if referring to a detached structure. They said some are made basically to hold up the roof and nothing more, 0LL and 0DL. Some are 0LL and 5lbDL. We came to the conclusion that mine were 0LL and 5lbDL, after discussing it here and with a truss manufacturer. So don't always assume that.

In your case though, I believe you would be fine. I also recommend that metal ceiling panels, don't get barn siding, they weigh more and cost more. I just took delivery of 50 white panels from Menard's. I haven't installed them yet but they are going to look great. As mentioned moisture in the air, a leak in the roof or time can cause your osb to sag. Metal panels are impervious to that.

Good Luck!

-Clint

 

[akpingel]

Thanks Clint and all of those that have recommended the metal ceiling. I've been convinced this is an overall better solution for my situation.

I thought of test I could conduct to see how the "ceiling" would fair with additional weight. I am going to drop a plumb line from the lower chord supporting the garage doors, open the garage doors, and set the line so it is just touching the ground. Then I will shut the doors and see if the plumb has moved at all. Not really scientific since I have no clue what acceptable deflection is, but at least I will get an understanding if weight added is moving the trusses significantly.

I've read on here several times, when researching how I'm going to insulate my ceiling, that not all truses are rated to carry drywall and insulation if referring to a detached structure. They said some are made basically to hold up the roof and nothing more, 0LL and 0DL. Some are 0LL and 5lbDL. We came to the conclusion that mine were 0LL and 5lbDL, after discussing it here and with a truss manufacturer. So don't always assume that.

In your case though, I believe you would be fine. I also recommend that metal ceiling panels, don't get barn siding, they weigh more and cost more. I just took delivery of 50 white panels from Menard's. I haven't installed them yet but they are going to look great. As mentioned moisture in the air, a leak in the roof or time can cause your osb to sag. Metal panels are impervious to that.

Good Luck!

-Clint

 

[akpingel]

Also, do you have an item number for that Menard's panel you are using? Thanks!

 

[Chris705]

It may be worth a call to your town/county building department to see if they have any info on the trusses. If the PO filed for a permit then they may have record of the trusses, that is typically one item that building officials want to have on file. But maybe the build predates the need for any permits......

 

[rsanter]

Thanks for the replies-








I considered this a while ago but I tabled it due to the fact the thickness of the truss is 4" and I would need to add spacers for insulation plus airflow. Also, not sure if I could leave the backing of the insulation safely exposed?

What I would suggest is spray foam or rigid foam.
I would also install ceiling strips that are the metal panels or wood to finish them off and hold the insulation

 

[Pingel85]

Nothing to add but just wanted to say hi to another Pingel 1/2 way across the country.