A vapor barrier/retarder should always be utilized whenever an occupied space is conditioned to a temperature, or relative humidity condition, other than ambient outdoor conditions. Period.
This applies to 99% of all structures, with a few exceptions (none of which apply in your case).
The location of the vapor barrier depends on the climate. A heating predominant climate has different requirements than a humid cooling predominant climate. In mixed climates such as the mid-Atlantic area, the placement of the barrier is a little more challenging. The brief answer is that prolonged dew point conditions are far less frequent during summer than during winter. That being the case, you protect against the more prevalent and more damaging conditions - in this case winter heating.
In your location (and I spent twenty years practicing in the DC metro area, including Annapolis, St. Mary's, etc.), the wall construction should be as follows, from the inside out:
Gypsum board (5/8" for garage construction)
Vapor barrier, 4-6 mil poly, continuous and sealed at all penetrations
Fiberglass batt insulation, R-19 if new construction
Fiberboard or other exterior wall sheathing
Building paper or air retarder (Tyvek)
Siding (or air space and brick veneer)
The intent of the vapor barrier is to reduce the movement of moisture into the wall cavity where it can cause damage. The permeable barrier (Tyvek) at the exterior will (in theory) allow moisture to pass through the wall assembly. You don't apply a vapor barrier to both sides unless you are constructing a "Thermos" bottle.
I am unsure how the use of vapor barriers has become so contentious. This is certainly not the result of the engineering or construction industry. Are there other ways to accomplish vapor control? Of course there are. But there is a reason that builders and Architects specify vapor barriers and that is because they have a track record of success, with little capital cost.
As always, offered only as opinion