Yikes found when I pulled dishwasher

[earl84]

New to us house in May. Built 2005, remodeled in the past 2 years.

Dishwasher wasn’t working too well, and I found out that there was a misalignment from the pump assembly to the conduit that fed the top washer arm. Needed to pull it out from the cabinet to access underside, and this is what I found.
Romex exiting near floor, ran up to a screw and looped around to hold it up, then an outlet just dangling in midair. Dishwasher plugged in to the outlet. Where it touched the back of the soundproofing mat, it had melted. Neutral wire either was never hooked up or it had shorted, causing melting and the wire was gone. (I’ll admit, I’m a little unclear about neutral wire function.) Looks like we could have been in imminent danger of a fire.

I put in a post construction box as high as I could, ran Romex to the box, new outlet, it’s all working correctly now. At the same time, added a disposal. It already had a separate circuit and outlet that was also just hanging in midair under the sink, but at least it was in a proper box. Mounted it, along with disposal, no worries.

Question, anyone know what the shielded cable could be on the very lower right of the dishwasher compartment? There is no power running to it, tried every circuit breaker. Previous owners had a kitchen heat mat, at least there is a label in the circuit breaker panel that says this. But no power goes to the wires.

 

[chase237]

You can wire the dishwasher direct to power, no need for a plug and outlet. But it sounds like you're past that.
The other line? Who knows. There may have been a remodel or two in a previous life. Wine fridge, trash compactor, additional outlet.

 

[Shopguy78]

Shielded cable could very well have been the original dishwasher power if there was one before.

 

[Bobf]

The phrase "ignorance is very forgiving" comes to mine.

 

[fsae0607]

Unbelievable. I've found my share of wiring tom foolery in my house.

For those old wires, I'd install an "old work" box, run the wires to that, cap them and install a cover plate.

 

[Meursault74]

When I replaced my dish washer it was hardwired, but the wires were just twisted together with electrical tape over them at the junction in he washer. No wire nuts and the conduit/wire wasn't clamped either. I think flooring workers must have done it when the floor was redone at some point.

I made sure to clamp the wires/conduit and use wire nuts when I installed the new washer, and I left it hardwired.

 

[Dumber than lumber]

The phrase "ignorance is very forgiving" comes to mine.

Excellent remark. Had never heard that; well, at least never heard it put THAT way.

 

[engineer2]

I converted my dishwasher from hardwired to plug in. Much easier to service.
I would install a receptacle in the wall, but it has to be accessible, like in the sink cabinet. It should also be a GFCI.

 

[DRP6833]

I found a similar situation in a previous house where someone did this when installing a microwave over the stove. I swear, some people's kids!

 

[K'ledgeBldr]

422.16(B)(2) Built-in Dishwashers and Trash Compactors.

The receptacle for a built-in dishwasher shall be located in the space adjacent to the space occupied by the dishwasher.

The receptacle for a built-in dishwasher shall be located in the space adjacent to the space occupied by the dishwasher.

Code Change Summary: The rules pertaining to the cord-and plug-connection of built-in dishwashers and trash compactors have been separated.

In the 2014 NEC Section 422.16(B)(2) provided one set of rules that could be applied to built-in dishwashers or trash compactors. These rules provided details on allowable cord length, receptacle location and type of attachment plug permitted.

In the 2017 NEC, changes occurred that align the NEC rules for built-in dishwashers with UL 749 which is the Standard for Household Dishwashers. UL 749 requires the installation instructions for a household dishwasher to state that the power supply receptacle for the dishwasher must be installed in a cabinet or on a wall adjacent to the under counter space in which the appliance is to be installed. As well, Section 210.50(C) allows appliance receptacle outlets installed in a dwelling unit for specific appliances to be installed up to 6 feet away from the intended location of the appliance.

The rules in 422.16(B)(2) allowed a cord not longer than 4 feet which made it difficult to comply with the language in the UL Standard and 210.50(C).

In the 2017 NEC, the revised language allows a built-in dishwasher to have a cord length between 3 feet and up to 6.5 feet. As well, new item 6 states that the receptacle for a built-in dishwasher shall be located in the space adjacent to the space occupied by the dishwasher.


Of course, this is in direct conflict with the code about flex cables going through a wall- so we'll see! I much prefer the dishwasher being hardwired- when and if there is enough wire!

 

[MFolks]

Bought a Kenmore washer and electric dryer some years ago,after it was installed and in use,kept smelling hot vinyl,could not find out why,decided to pull dryer(220) out ,found the installer had cross threaded one of the terminals for the power cord,the screw was tight,but not the termination, the gap was heating up the connection,pulled it off and took it to Sears,got a new cord,went home,got out my tools,and used a tap to clean out the "Buggered" termination hole,still working.....

 

[engineer2]

this is in direct conflict with the code about flex cables going through a wall

You can comply, but it's easier with new wooden cabinets and new wiring install:
Install a GFCI outlet in your sink base.
Cut out about 3" x 4" of the lower back of the adjacent cabinet and/or sink base. This will be under the cabinet box, so it will be hidden. If your sink base is next to the DW, it's easier since sink bases are sometimes open in the back.
Cut a 3x5 hole (enough to get your hand through) in the back or side of the sink base to route the power cord, water supply line and drain line.