You guys ever wire an Oven?

[mpire]

I'm moving the oven over about 3 feet, so now the wire doesn't reach.

I'm going to get new wire, about 16 feet of 6/3.

Should I change the outlet to a 4 prong from a 3 prong while I'm at it?

Circuit breaker is 50 amps.

New oven takes whatever cord you want to use I guess.

I don't have a separate neutral wire on my breaker box. The ground and neutral are connected in the box. Breaker box is from about 1975.

No permit if your asking. Just installing new cabinets. No inspections.

Does the plug even matter in this case?

 

[pattenp]

Code requirement is 4 wire if changing circuit wiring. 6/3 NM is 4 wires, so 4 prong outlet and plug is used.

 

[rlitman]

Code requirement is 4 wire if changing circuit wiring. 6/3 NM is 4 wires, so 4 prong outlet and plug is used.

This. Connect both the ground and neutral of the new wire to the ground/neutral bar in the panel. The separate neutral is still important.

 

[13mo]

I'm moving the oven over about 3 feet, so now the wire doesn't reach.

I'm going to get new wire, about 16 feet of 6/3.

Should I change the outlet to a 4 prong from a 3 prong while I'm at it?

Circuit breaker is 50 amps.

New oven takes whatever cord you want to use I guess.

I don't have a separate neutral wire on my breaker box. The ground and neutral are connected in the box. Breaker box is from about 1975.

No permit if your asking. Just installing new cabinets. No inspections.

Does the plug even matter in this case?

I would change to the four-prong 14-50 receptacle and appliance cord as you are supposed to update things to the now-current code if anything is modified, and the three-prong 10-50 receptacles haven't been code since the mid-1990s.

 

[Norcal]

I would change to the four-prong 14-50 receptacle and appliance cord as you are supposed to update things to the now-current code if anything is modified, and the three-prong 10-50 receptacles haven't been code since the mid-1990s.

It changed with the adoption of the 1996 NEC. I used adoption since it can be many years from when it is published to when a code is adopted as the standard in a State or jurisdiction.

 

[mpire]

This. Connect both the ground and neutral of the new wire to the ground/neutral bar in the panel. The separate neutral is still important.

This is the answer I was looking for. Thanks!

I'll update to the 4 prong plug.

I will have to look up the difference between having a neutral and not having a neutral wire going to the meter.

 

[Terry D]

This is the answer I was looking for. Thanks!

I'll update to the 4 prong plug.

I will have to look up the difference between having a neutral and not having a neutral wire going to the meter.

There is always a neutral coming from the meter to the first panel or disconnect. That wire could could have insulation or be bare. That is not a equipment ground. Your equipment ground does not come in play till the first disconnect or panel

The older 3 prong receptacles had 2 hots and a neutral, no equipment ground. They would allow the neutral to be bonded to the chassis of the equipment for protection. Untill the fiquered that wasnt such a good idea. Now everything is a 4 wire which includes a neutral with a separate equipment ground

Sent from my SM-G960U using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[rlitman]

This is the answer I was looking for. Thanks!

I'll update to the 4 prong plug.

I will have to look up the difference between having a neutral and not having a neutral wire going to the meter.

It's not the wire at the meter that matters (in this instance).

The issue is that the ground should not carry current. With four wires, any 120V loads in your range travel down the neutral and not the grounding wire, so the grounding wire keeps the chassis at 0V potential to earth, where it should be.

In a three wire setup, the chassis ground is bonded to the neutral, and any 120V loads on your range travel down the shared grounded neutral. The issue here is that due to ohm's law, current across a resistor will have an associated voltage, and that voltage will be exactly how much the chassis is elevated from earth potential. For the most part, that will not be enough, since very little of a range's current draw is 120V (the clock and computer often is). With a low current, you have a low potential.

However, if that current draw is high, or if the resistance of the wire is high (if there's a bad connection), the chassis can be at an elevated voltage that can shock you. Something that should be impossible with a 4 wire setup.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

I'm moving the oven over about 3 feet, so now the wire doesn't reach.

I'm going to get new wire, about 16 feet of 6/3.

Should I change the outlet to a 4 prong from a 3 prong while I'm at it?

Circuit breaker is 50 amps.

New oven takes whatever cord you want to use I guess.

I don't have a separate neutral wire on my breaker box. The ground and neutral are connected in the box. Breaker box is from about 1975.

No permit if your asking. Just installing new cabinets. No inspections.

Does the plug even matter in this case?

Is the existing branch circuit wiring 3-cnd or 4-cnd? Ive seen some installs where they ran 4-cnd cable but used a 3-wire receptacle.

If the cable is 4-cnd, then just extend the circuit

now the wiring in the main panel has no bearing on the stove circuit....the neutral should be bonded in the main service panel

This is the answer I was looking for. Thanks!

I'll update to the 4 prong plug.

I will have to look up the difference between having a neutral and not having a neutral wire going to the meter.

a 3-cnd stove circuit has a neutral. what it doesnt have is an EGC- equipment grounding conductor.

The difference between having an EGC and not having one is that with the 3-wire setup allows for a potential of shock if something happens to the neutral wire connection to the panel because the stove chassis is bonded to the neutral.

 

[southernfriedcj]

I'm glad this thread was started.

I'm wiring my new shop and I forgot about running a circuit for an oven to use for powder coating.

Thanks

 

[Bert_]

Anymore I run 8-3 instead of #6 for a standard range. I've amp clamped a couple stoves they just don't pull that much.

 

[larry4406]

When converting a range/stove/oven combo from 3-wire to 4-wire don’t forget to disconnect the internal jumper that bonded the neutral to the chassis.

Mine had a metal plate that spanned between two threaded studs. This was located adjacent the studs where the ring ends of the chord landed. I disconnected it, put it back on one stud only, and rotated it out of the way to not make contact with the other stud. This way it didn’t get lost.

Dryers are similar.

 

[mike93lx]

If you extend the existing wiring, make sure you keep the junction box accessible. Hiding it behind a cabinet is not kosher

 

[klassenl]

In Canada we use #8 and a 40 amp breaker for residential ranges. This is how our book is written. Do you guys down south have to use #6 by code.

 

[sparky 1971]

It's not as easy as just installing a new receptacle. I doubt the existing wiring has a ground, probably a black, red, and white. You will have to add a #10 ground wire or pull new 8/3 or 6/3 romex back to the panel.

 

[sparky 1971]

In Canada we use #8 and a 40 amp breaker for residential ranges. This is how our book is written. Do you guys down south have to use #6 by code.

No, we can use #8. That's what I use along with a 40 amp breaker. Some guys think that since the range is getting plugged into a 50 amp receptacle it has to have a 50 amp circuit. I've given up arguing that one since it's not my money getting tossed away.