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Your perfect pole barn

jmiller165

Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2010
Messages
10
Location
Northwest Ohio
New here but have been reading a ton of the older posts to get as much info as possible before I go ahead with my pole barn. I am going with a 42'x48'x16'. Fully insulated, 6" concrete pad, floor drain, full length 10' wide lean to, partial open loft in the end, 200 amp service, stubbed in plumbing for future finishing and a big roll up door on the end. My question is to anybody out there who has built their barn and later thought they would've/should've done something different or added something as it was being built, could you let me know? I got my list of things I want but I know there are things that I am probably not thinking of. This barn will be a general use pole barn. I'll be working on my cars/toys, storage, maybe a wood shop, etc... Any input will be much appreciated. If this subject has been discussed before I apologize.

Thanks,
Jeremy
 
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mad57

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 30, 2009
Messages
1,698
on my personal building id like over hangs on gable ends higher inside height, and BIGGER!!! MY 30 X 80 IS ALLREADY GETTING TIGHT.
 

dcovey

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 18, 2009
Messages
153
Location
Kempner, TX
I put capped off PVC tubing in the ground before pouring the floor in two places (besides plumbing) to allow me to run something into or out of the building after it is finished.

Also, make sure your trusses are rated (or are placed on 24" centers minimum)to allow you to drywall or store something if you want.

Ditto the overhangs although they can be added later.

Dave
 

mad57

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 30, 2009
Messages
1,698
forgot pulling pots in cement before the pour of ur crete ,its a pain in the **** drilling those holes after. put them every where u might have to drag a dead car or truck. or straighten a dent ect.
 

6th Gear

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 17, 2008
Messages
261
Location
Ohio
look into radiant heat and running pex tubing before pouring the slab. with 16' ceiling, you'll want the heat down low.
 

nonhog

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 6, 2007
Messages
2,449
Location
Arizona (Tucson)
Looking back I wish I had just hired out the poles and roof also ran beams across instead of dropping poles.
I would then stick framed in between the posts.
You could still side with metal or step up and side however you wish.
Insulation, sheetrock all that would be easier if you 16 o.c. frame.
Add windows high up for natural light.
 
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NUTTSGT

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Sep 14, 2009
Messages
50,891
Location
Northern Central Ohio
Well for starters, you have been reading here and asking for advice. That is a step in the right direction.

I'd try to think every part of the build through, lay out, electrical, plumbing, HVAC and other utilities.

Maybe a porch roof or covered area over the man door, ***** when it's pouring rain and dark trying to unlock the dead bolt and door lock.

Take a drive out in the country and look at some of the building that your local farmers have put up and get some ideas from what they have built.
 

krooser

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 3, 2005
Messages
2,377
Location
Waupaca, Wisconsin
Build it 'flush frame' meaning you lay the sidewall girts on edge in between the posts.... then you can insulate with 48" wide FG batts... much cheaper and easier to finish off the inside, too.
 

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jwillis

Banned
Joined
Aug 24, 2010
Messages
5,225
Location
SW Ohio
I always recommend taking a lot of pitures. Some day you might want to know where that floor drain runs out of the building exactly. Take pictures of the wall studs before you put on the wall covering. You might like to know exactly where you put those cross braces. Running underground lines or a septic system? It is nice to have pictures so you know exactly how they were put in. Sounds like you are planning a wonderful "hangout". Good luck and it is nice to hear from you.
 

LennyTheLizard

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 25, 2010
Messages
325
Location
Southeast MO
I'm in the same boat. Just starting on a Post-Frame style building, and wondering what to include in the early stages. I'm starting with a pretty unlevel site, so instead of paying for a bunch of fill, decided to do a suspended floor.

It's going to be 40'x60'x12' upstairs and 40'x30' x 92" downstairs.
Walls are poured, and now trying to accomodate anything that needs to come through the floor before it is poured. I'm roughing in for a bathroom, indoor spigot for garden hose needs, center floor drain (in non-suspended). I also already bought PEX tubing for radiant heat (just in case). Anything else I should put in the conrete?
 

Charles (in GA)

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 11, 2006
Messages
12,489
Location
50 mi south of Atlanta
To me, "Perfect Pole Barn" is an mistatement, since I don't consider a pole structure the most desirable for something like a garage, but................ thats just me.............. I much prefer an all steel structure.

Charles
 
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