Your Thoughts about a 3/8" Breaker Bar

[Tul]

I'm looking for a 3/8" breaker bar.

This Tekton looks good, because it has a lifetime warranty and claims to have up to 260 ft-lbs of torque, but looks like it has a bulky head which might make it hard to put in tight places. Here are links, in addition to a photo below left:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07GHRL16D/?tag=atomicindus08-20

https://www.tekton.com/breaker-bars?drive-size=3-8-in&length=18-in

It looks like the new design for these (and ratchets) is to have a grooved end handle, vs the old cylindrical handle (photo below right). Any thoughts on the pros and cons?

I'm also open to other brands you'd recommend.

Thanks

 

[ChrisLS8]

I feel they have no purpose

 

[Tul]

Thanks for your prompt reply. Please tell me more.

I should have explained my situation. I have a couple of old cars that I work on and from time to time bolts are stuck on. I thought that breaker bars would be better to use than ratchets.

 

[ChrisLS8]

I would just get a long flex head 3/8 ratchet. They are plenty strong and far more useful

 

[herstal54s]

I have one and use it on the back side of an impact wrench when the 1/2" breaker bar wont fit. I've had ratchets break trying to stop free spinning nuts and bolts.

 

[nelstomlinson]

I just bought a Wright 3/8 bar with a tootsie roll handle. I'm liking it so far.

 

[Tul]

I would just get a long flex head 3/8 ratchet. They are plenty strong and far more useful

Thanks. I'm concerned about voiding the warranty by using a ratchet as a breaker bar.

 

[jkesselr]

A 1/2” ratchet is a great 3/8” breaker bar. A 3/8” ratchet is a great 1/4” breaker bar. Who really needs a 1/4” breaker bar anyway? While I ask the question, I have to admit that I own more than one. Why I ask, as I have NEVER used the damn things.

 

[JulianMorrow]

I'd recommend a 1/2" drive breaker bar. You get much better torque for the same amount of force. And I wouldn't spend too much money on it--a breaker bar is a breaker bar. I own a 24" PowerTorque breaker bar (O'Reilly's house brand) and paid $20-$25. It does the job.

 

[DFB]

Get the Pittsburgh PRO for a long 3/8" bar less than $10 still get a warranty.

Here's a recent thread where the bar options and reasons were hashed to death

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=417089&highlight=breaker+bar+tekton&showall=1

That said. I do have 2 Tekton breaker bars in my tool box (I also sell them on my flea mkt tool tables) and will say they are a very nicely made bar, a good chrome finish, the 1/2" is a 15" and the little 12" 3/8" is like 3 inches longer than my old raised panel craftsman flex head breaker. The heads yokes are different than the one you pictured If you don't see them on the website they can be found all over amazon

 

[zendriver]

I've never owned or used one.

IMO, If smaller fasteners won't budge with a ratchet or box end wrench, they are going to be a problem, with anything. 1/2" is a different story, I have a Proto and long one from HF.

Otherwise, I'm sure the HF are just ducky, but choose one from whatever tool company you like.

 

[Mr_B]

Main reason for wanting a 3/8 breaker bar is access issues, you can get in a lot of places with a slender 3/8 bar and good sockets/extensions.
For the price of a half decent breaker bar it a not going leave you homeless but it will leave you less stressed when got scenario to use one .
Lots of prices between 10bucks and 50bucks . even at 10bucks you got walk in same day exchange warranty .

 

[JulianMorrow]

Main reason for wanting a 3/8 breaker bar is access issues, you can get in a lot of places with a slender 3/8 bar and good sockets/extensions.

For tight clearances, I'd go with what ChrisLS8 & jkesselr suggested, either:

(1) A long 3/8" flex ratchet--I have a Titan 3/8" 18 inch flex ratchet that works well. I picked it up on Amazon for $30 (not much more than a breaker bar).

(2) Bump up to 1/2" ratchet for greater torque. I have a Williams 1/2" S-52EHFA ratchet that's about 15 inches long. You could take apart a tank with that ratchet.

 

[Mr_B]

For tight clearances, I'd go with what ChrisLS8 & jkesselr suggested, either:

(1) A long 3/8" flex ratchet--I have a Titan 3/8" 18 inch flex ratchet that works well. I picked it up on Amazon for $30 (not much more than a breaker bar).

(2) Bump up to 1/2" ratchet for greater torque. I have a Williams 1/2" S-52EHFA ratchet that's about 15 inches long. You could take apart a tank with that ratchet.

If you can get a flex head ratchet in then it ain't tight .

scenarios I use a 3/8 and 1/4 breaker bar are like making custom swivel socket wrench where you got control over socket length etc .
Don't use it daily or even weekly but 2 or 3 times a month it gets used makes it more than worthwhile having .

 

[CTyankee]

I have a Gearwrench one. I don't/can't work out roller tool cart. 90% of the time I only need my 3/8 Gearwrench socket set and a smaller plastic box with other various hand tools including the breaker bar. I rarely need to use my 1/2 stuff. Carrying the breaker bar often eliminates the need to "go bigger" just to to break a bolt. I'd rather not test the limits of the ratchets and chance breaking one when a few extra seconds can avoid doing so. YMMV

 

[sberry]

I lost mine and never replaced it.

 

[DFB]

Agree with CT Yankee above

Though many common ratchet tools have improved in in quality and strength over the decades and large half inch flex heads are pretty stout and just maybe I'm just way too old school here but in my little world of wrenching, your ratchets were never meant to be serious breaker bars

 

[Jazz1]

Never much need for 3/8” or 1/4”. I only picked them up few years back in the $1 bin at Restore

 

[CR888]

I agreed with above info, bars still have a place in the tool box despite the popularity rise of cordless and more affordable pneumatic impacts. Sometimes there just the right tool to use.

 

[jumbojak]

If you can get a flex head ratchet in then it ain't tight .

scenarios I use a 3/8 and 1/4 breaker bar are like making custom swivel socket wrench where you got control over socket length etc .
Don't use it daily or even weekly but 2 or 3 times a month it gets used makes it more than worthwhile having .

This is why I keep one handy. I've had plenty of times where a ratchet, flex head or not, would not fit because the head was too big around and a 1/2" breaker bar and socket were too tall. The 3/8" bar and socket got the job done though.

 

[eschoendorff]

I have several 3/8 and 1/4 breaker bars. Mostly Proto. Never ever use them. My long Dual 80 ratchets have really taken their place. Glad I have them though... just in case I ever need them, in case of things like clearance issues etc. plus they’re shiny and have nice knurling lol

 

[ihateminimumwage]

Have short and long (10" & 15") Matco breakers in 3/8". Used often enough for backing nuts while using an impact, crowfoots and fuel line sockets when bleeding diesel injectors. Also used on occasion for spots where either a ratchet head won't fit and an obstruction keeps a wrench out.

They have their place, just not essentially for breaking fasteners loose.

 

[SRSemenza]

I was on the 3/8" breaker bar quest a couple years ago. I ended up with the Koken. It is really nice 15" with a very compact head. Just used it yesterday where the 1/2" x 24" would have been very awkward.


Seth

 

[Mr_B]

I was on the 3/8" breaker bar quest a couple years ago. I ended up with the Koken. It is really nice 15" with a very compact head. Just used it yesterday where the 1/2" x 24" would have been very awkward.


Seth

Koken is nice and what I have in 3/8 & 1/4
Although if thrifty you can pick up top quality usa cheap online or at the pawn shop, they not popular so few bucks buys a top used tool .

 

[stonesg]

Then there's that maddening situation where the 1/2 ratchet or breaker is just a red one too big in the space but the 3/8ths will fit..... Particularly when you can only get a few turns out before it backs your set up into a hard place.

That can make the difference between doing it by the book, removing other components just to gain access or just getting out the fastener that you need to.

Having the option is a good thing.

 

[JeffBama]

A 3/8" breaker bar is perfect for the belt tensioner on a Mazda. I bought my Tekton 3/8" breaker bar just for that reason.

 

[gdudik]

I feel they have no purpose

Bottom drivers side bell housing bolt on a Subaru EJ engine. If you use 1/2” drive, you have to pull the axle shaft to get on the bolt. 3/8” sneaks in there with the right extensions and universal. No room for a rattle gun, 3/8 breaker bar works great!

 

[Tul]

Any thoughts on the Kobalt 3/8" breaker bard, made in the US #22802?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IB64ZA6/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[stonesg]

A 3/8" breaker bar is perfect for the belt tensioner on a Mazda. I bought my Tekton 3/8" breaker bar just for that reason.

I forgot about that!

I kept a long pattern one in the car just incase I needed change the belt on the road.

Can't really get a ratchet in there or enough leverage on it while slipping the belt on and the breaker makes it trivial.

[emoji106]

 

[JBH]

Who really needs a 1/4” breaker bar anyway? While I ask the question, I have to admit that I own more than one. Why I ask, as I have NEVER used the damn things.

Anyone with a stubby 1/4" drive Nepros ratchet! Shown below with a Stahlwille 1/4" breaker bar acting as handle.

 

[Al Borland]

Differential plugs, transfer cases, things like that where a ratchet won't fit and no room/wrong size for 1/2".

 

[ChrisLS8]

Bottom drivers side bell housing bolt on a Subaru EJ engine. If you use 1/2” drive, you have to pull the axle shaft to get on the bolt. 3/8” sneaks in there with the right extensions and universal. No room for a rattle gun, 3/8 breaker bar works great!

I've done about about 4-5 of those and always just used a 3/8 ratchet

 

[eschoendorff]

Any thoughts on the Kobalt 3/8" breaker bard, made in the US #22802?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IB64ZA6/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I get that it’s made in the USA, but personally I’d go for a breaker bar that was longer than just 10”.

There are a lot of great options out there...

 

[619DioFan]

I have an older usa made craftsman 3/8 bar. I use it often in conjunction with a short extension and either a crows foot or a torque adapter . allows me to make weird angle wrenches to get into tight areas.

 

[Mr Ratchet]

I have two breaker bar lengths in all four of my drive sizes. I use them all, some more than others. If I'm not using my impact to break fasteners loose, I use my breaker bars almost every time.

In 3/8" drive, I have a 12" GW and an 18" SO. I talked a young guy at work into getting a 18" GW. I would have gotten one too but, I had the SO before GW released their 18". His $20.00 GW is just as good as my $80.00 SO. https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=417089
I recommend looking at the GW.

 

[jimkinney]

I forgot about that!

I kept a long pattern one in the car just incase I needed change the belt on the road.

Can't really get a ratchet in there or enough leverage on it while slipping the belt on and the breaker makes it trivial.

[emoji106]

+1
Keep a HF one in the tool bag of my daughters V6 Mustang. Best 10 bucks spent for roadside repair (which seems to happen way more often than on my other cars)

 

[Millwrong]

The only breaker bar I use is a 40" 3/4" drive, typically with a 1/2" drive adapter. For, you know, when I need to truly break something loose. 99.9% of the time, its a long handle ratchet.


I've also never really given two shits about tool warranties. If I own a tool, its purpose is to get the job done, even if it means sacrificing it's life for the greater good. I've lifted half the *** end of a pickup truck off the ground with a floor jack on the end of a 1/2" drive ratchet trying to bust a pinion flange nut loose before. Anything to get the job done! (and that ratchet is still in use, believe it or not!)

 

[Mr Ratchet]

The only breaker bar I use is a 40" 3/4" drive, typically with a 1/2" drive adapter. For, you know, when I need to truly break something loose.

99.9% of the time this combination has the 1/2" drive anvil sheering off the 3/4" to 1/2" reducer. I have a few broken ones laying around. Eliminated that issue by expanding my 3/4" drive set with smaller socket sizes.

 

[bob15]

I have and use both Proto and Snappy 3/8 breaker bars. I used to use a long handle 3/8 ratchet until I broke/chipped the gear and pawl inside it; and being an obsolete ratchet (Armstrong), it was rendered into the scrap metal pile.

 

[dalehsc]

At our dealership(Dodge/Chrysler/Jeep) we extract a lot of broken exhaust manifold bolts from aluminum cylinder heads. Welding on a nut on the broken bolt is the ticket on getting them out. After I weld the nut on, I use the 3/8 breaker bar to get the right feel of the bolt working in the thread. It's easier to work the bolt in & out of the thread, without having to switch a ratchet.