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Youtube fab tips and tricks library
- Thread starter ching0n
- Start date
Firebrick43
Well-known member
That sounds like it would work well for most indexing. And very simple!I originally saw that procedure shown in a very early edition of HSM magazine and they used a weight and cord wound around the spindle to keep it in place against the stop.
I am glad you posted this as I was thinking about the guy that showed it to me all those years ago.
He used a small block of hardwood with a radius cut to the chuck and a small machinist jack on the bed pushing up on that block into the chuck. He manually He didn’t tighten it real hard, just finger tight and a quarter turn with the tiny little Tommy bar.
RoninB4
Well-known member
-The above are good ideas instead of guess-timating or using other devices/methods. New lathes and most competent shops had a small block/cylinder that was the center height of the spindle at the ready. It often got misplaced, lost, or became a component for something else. For lathe owners it should be your first project IMO, just takes some measuring and a little math. Bolting it to the lathe cross slide is convenient but will be dangerous if the "birds nest" from turning hooks onto it. A dead center can also be made cheap/easy/simple in the lathe chuck for center height but doesn't help when you have to change the cutting tool and don't want to remove the workpiece from the chuck.
they're both magnetic, the 2nd one only looks like it's bolted. I saw another approach that combines both. A cylinder hinged at the center height to approach from top or bottom, I think I'll be cloning this one:-The above are good ideas instead of guess-timating or using other devices/methods. New lathes and most competent shops had a small block/cylinder that was the center height of the spindle at the ready. It often got misplaced, lost, or became a component for something else. For lathe owners it should be your first project IMO, just takes some measuring and a little math. Bolting it to the lathe cross slide is convenient but will be dangerous if the "birds nest" from turning hooks onto it. A dead center can also be made cheap/easy/simple in the lathe chuck for center height but doesn't help when you have to change the cutting tool and don't want to remove the workpiece from the chuck.
Three boring head tricks on a lathe:
Boring Head Tailstock Offset for turning tapers w/o readjusting your tailstock [you can skip much of the work buying a screw on boring head with a morse taper arbor to match your tailstock]:
Turning balls using a quick change:
variation of the above w/increased offset & worm gear anti-backing:
Boring but that's boring. The novel thing here is not using a chuck but taper for max concentricity I suppose. You can throw small stock into a tool holder if you don't have a milling attachment:
Boring Head Tailstock Offset for turning tapers w/o readjusting your tailstock [you can skip much of the work buying a screw on boring head with a morse taper arbor to match your tailstock]:
Turning balls using a quick change:
Boring but that's boring. The novel thing here is not using a chuck but taper for max concentricity I suppose. You can throw small stock into a tool holder if you don't have a milling attachment:
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variation of 1st video but w/captured ball bearings instead:Three boring head tricks on a lathe:
Boring Head Tailstock Offset for turning tapers w/o readjusting your tailstock [you can skip much of the work buying a screw on boring head with a morse taper arbor to match your tailstock]:
Turning balls using a quick change:
variation of the above w/increased offset & worm gear anti-backing:
Boring but that's boring. The novel thing here is not using a chuck but taper for max concentricity I suppose. You can throw small stock into a tool holder if you don't have a milling attachment: