Z-Wave Switches

[I Really Just Don't Know]

I'm looking to put Z-Wave switches in my 18x36 detached garage. I've been looking at these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035YRCR2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

But they are rated at 600 watts, which I think is about 5 amps. I want to run 6 4' fluorescent, or led fixtures each off of 2 switches. If I go led, and can count on ~50 watts per fixture, are these switches ok, or is there a better alternative? What if I end up wanting fluorescent?

 

[cybrdyke]

The market for wireless control is pretty much owned by Lutron.
You can check out their website at www.lutron.com . They have a full product line including sensors and remote switches.
CD

 

[justsam]

Would need to know about the proposed fluorescents to determine their power requirement. You should be OK with LED.

I have used GE z-Wave with no problems. Keep it simple, like the ones you linked to. You do not need a dimmer function which tends to be the limiting factor on power dissipation.

To my knowledge, Lutron does not do Z-wave, they have their own protocols, like Radio RA. They are robust, but rather costly.

 

[Speedy Petey]

The market for wireless control is pretty much owned by Lutron.

You really think this???
Insteon, Z-Wave, Zigbee and others are all doing a pretty brisk business.

You can't go only by what you seen in Home Depot.

 

[I Really Just Don't Know]

Thanks. I'll keep the wattage in mind. I'll probably be going with LED anyway in an attempt to not worry about changing bulbs. I've got a SmartHome v2 hub to put out there and want to be able to control the lights from the house.

 

[thymer]

I have ~75 of various versions of these in service in the house amongst other things... Switches, dimmers, transmitters, etc.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008OF8CC6/?tag=atomicindus08-20

For the fluorescent lights you need to use a switch type (no dim) and the max amps is 15 per.

 

[Todd.Brock]

Timely thread. Zwave gear was my Christmas gadget this year. I have a KWIK SET door lock and a Honeywell thermostat that uses zwave. I actually have the non decora version of the GE switch you reference on the way from Amazon.
We have traditional light switches and I really didn't want one paddle switch Anyway- I initIally tried
Aeon Labs DSC26103-ZWUS - Z-Wave In-Wall Micro Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VWBNAU/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Which controls a standard switch. My issue were the screw down terminals for the low voltage wire that goes to and from the physical switch are a little flimsy and would not accept wire and screw down you could wire in the terminal or screw it down. Your choice!! . I tested it all and it did work. But I wasn't comfortable stuffing it into a box that was already crowded. If you have room however, it may be something to try. My wink hub did not recognize the brand but I installed it as a generic switch and it worked fine.
I sent it back and ordered the GE switch. I liked the adapter idea so I could move it around if I ever wanted to try and control something different. What hub are you using? The wink hub works, but it conflicts with the thermostat app on my phone. The Honeywell app works much better so I just removed it from the wink app. This whole deal is a novel way for me to turn the porch lights on and off , but It seemed fun to play with b/c I have always been intrigued by HA and the fact the door lock and thermostat already had the tech built in.b I like the robot ideas. I'm not sure why I was amused to see if front door unlocks, turn heat to 72 and turn on porch lights.

 

[cybrdyke]

You really think this???
Insteon, Z-Wave, Zigbee and others are all doing a pretty brisk business.

You can't go only by what you seen in Home Depot.

Insteon is a zit on Lutron's ***. Lutron does over a half BILLION dollars in sales, and Home Depot is a tiny fraction of that. Insteon offers a couple hundred items, Lutron is over 15,000. Insteon sells thru retailers like Walmart, Target, Amazon where the expectations and information level of the customer are very low. Lutron sells thru professional channels to very high-information customers in a more demanding environment.
Zigbee is a protocol more than it is a company, so you cant compare the two.

Lutron made the business decision to not pay royalties to Zigbee for the use of their protocol. Most manufacturers would just knuckle under and pay the man. Lutron developed their own protocol which works great, arguably better, than Zigbee or Zigbee Pro.
Last year, Lutron launched their Caseta product line for light commercial and residential use. www.casetawireless.com It's a great, low cost, easy to install product line. Caseta's new system has the honor of being a factory installed app on the new Apple Watch.
CD

 

[thymer]

Timely thread. Zwave gear was my Christmas gadget this year. I have a KWIK SET door lock and a Honeywell thermostat that uses zwave. I actually have the non decora version of the GE switch you references. We have traditional light switches and I really didn't want one paddle switch Anyway- I initIally tried Aeon Labs DSC26103-ZWUS - Z-Wave In-Wall Micro Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008VWBNAU/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Which controls a standard switch. My issue were the screw down terminals for the low voltage wire that goes to and from the physical switch are a little flimsy and would not accept wire and screw down. I tested it all and it did work. But I wasn't comfortable stuffing it into a box that was already crowded. If you have room however, it may be something to try. My wink hub did not recognize the brand but I installed it as a generic switch and it worked fine.
I sent it back and ordered the GE switch. I liked the adapter idea so I could move it around if I ever wanted to try and control something different. What hub are you using? The wink hub works, but it conflicts with the thermostat app on my phone. The Honeywell app works much better so I just removed it from the wink app. This whole deal is a novel way for me to turn the porch lights on and off , but It seemed fun to play with b/c I have always been intrigued by HA and the fact the door lock and thermostat already had the tech built in.

If you have any questions about HA do send them along. I've been in the game since 1999 and have integrated security, lights, hvac, water, temps, AV, whole house music, voice control, TTS announcements, touch screens throughout the house, doors, locks, etc. It's very addictive.

 

[Todd.Brock]

Insteon is a zit on Lutron's ***. Lutron does over a half BILLION dollars in sales, and Home Depot is a tiny fraction of that. Insteon offers a couple hundred items, Lutron is over 15,000. Insteon sells thru retailers like Walmart, Target, Amazon where the expectations and information level of the customer are very low. Lutron sells thru professional channels to very high-information customers in a more demanding environment.

Zigbee is a protocol more than it is a company, so you cant compare the two.



Lutron made the business decision to not pay royalties to Zigbee for the use of their protocol. Most manufacturers would just knuckle under and pay the man. Lutron developed their own protocol which works great, arguably better, than Zigbee or Zigbee Pro.

Last year, Lutron launched their Caseta product line for light commercial and residential use. www.casetawireless.com It's a great, low cost, easy to install product line. Caseta's new system has the honor of being a factory installed app on the new Apple Watch.

CD

I believe the fan controllers I used are part of the Caseta family. It's for a ceiling fan with only one wall switch. They have a module that goes in line before a ceiling fan. It separates power so you can control lights and fan separately. The switch is a 2 button deal that you can set speed or dim the lights and is apparently RF from the switch to the fan. I have one in our bedroom and the kids room. They are def. high quality, hiccup free tech. My wife doesn't have patience for fussy

 

[Robert Hall]

I use products from Leviton that have EnOcean tech in them. I like that cause they use a batteryless wireless switch and occupancy sensors.

I use them in my garage, once I walk in, the lights stay on as long as Im in the room.

I found a 16 amp inline switch and a local (Utah) company I found has a 20 amp controller.

With the bright lights I use, I draw about 10 amps and both are handled quite well.

Here's a link on Amazon similar to what I have.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B012H6QZVC/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I just love it cause I can put the switch Anywhere!!

 

[justsam]

Thanks. I'll keep the wattage in mind. I'll probably be going with LED anyway in an attempt to not worry about changing bulbs. I've got a SmartHome v2 hub to put out there and want to be able to control the lights from the house.

I don't believe SmartHome supports, or has any intention to support Lutron Caseta, since they are firmly Insteon.

Even though I tend to be a fan boy of Lutron products, I do find their wireless protocols a bit confusing, and of course they are not open. They tend to call them all "Clear Connect" even if it is Caseta or Radio RA, yet they are not interoperable.

I am sure I am behind the times but the last I knew only Wink, and Staples supported Caseta. Lutron of course has their hub. Prices are certainly starting to be more competitive.

 

[Speedy Petey]

Insteon is a zit on Lutron's ***. Lutron does over a half BILLION dollars in sales, and Home Depot is a tiny fraction of that. Insteon offers a couple hundred items, Lutron is over 15,000. Insteon sells thru retailers like Walmart, Target, Amazon where the expectations and information level of the customer are very low. Lutron sells thru professional channels to very high-information customers in a more demanding environment.
Zigbee is a protocol more than it is a company, so you cant compare the two.

Lutron made the business decision to not pay royalties to Zigbee for the use of their protocol. Most manufacturers would just knuckle under and pay the man. Lutron developed their own protocol which works great, arguably better, than Zigbee or Zigbee Pro.
Last year, Lutron launched their Caseta product line for light commercial and residential use. www.casetawireless.com It's a great, low cost, easy to install product line. Caseta's new system has the honor of being a factory installed app on the new Apple Watch.
CD

So how long have you worked for Lutron??

I know Lutron, I use a ton of their stuff. You just said Lutron "owns" the market in this type of thing and I disagreed. You throwing Lutrons total sales at me is meaningless. I know what they sell.
My point is, I see and hear a LOT more of the other guys in typical homes than I ever have Radio RA and now even Caseta. In fact I have never seen one Caseta installation yet. Personally I think Caseta falls way short in the market due to it's features. Like no wired-in keypad?? Really? Why leave out such a thing. Do they really think folks only want hand-held remotes or key fobs?

At the same time, I have Insteon in my own home and am not happy with it. I will be going to Z-Wave to try it out. I am not going with Caseta for a few reasons, one of which is I think it will ultimately fail and not be available any more. Radio RA is WAY out of my scope due to the complexity of the system and the simplicity of my small system. This is aside from the exorbitant cost.

You honestly think it is an "honor" to be a factory installed app on an iWatch?? That's kind of sad.

 

[willf650]

I'm looking to put Z-Wave switches in my 18x36 detached garage. I've been looking at these:



http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035YRCR2/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I have that exact switch in my basement doing 11 two tube 48" fluorescent fixtures. I have it in series wth a regular light switch that is used to enable 5 of those fixture on the second half of my basement. Basically I have 6 turn on directly off the z wave switch and the other 5 if I walk into that half the basement and flick another switch coming off of the load side of the zwave switch.

I keep my dogs in their crates down there during the day and turn it on and off a minimum of twice a day and it's still gong strong after two years with a minimum of 6 4' fixtures turning on every time.

You can walk right into lowes and pick those up. They sell them as part of their Iris system. Lowes pricing is among the best around for the zwave stuff they have. Be aware that not all the stuff they sell for their Iris system is zwave but they have proven to be a good local source to walk in and get stuff. Staples also has a number of zwave products on the shelf including a nice zwave garage door sensor.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[cybrdyke]

So how long have you worked for Lutron??

I know Lutron, I use a ton of their stuff. You just said Lutron "owns" the market in this type of thing and I disagreed. You throwing Lutrons total sales at me is meaningless. I know what they sell.
My point is, I see and hear a LOT more of the other guys in typical homes than I ever have Radio RA and now even Caseta. In fact I have never seen one Caseta installation yet. Personally I think Caseta falls way short in the market due to it's features. Like no wired-in keypad?? Really? Why leave out such a thing. Do they really think folks only want hand-held remotes or key fobs?

At the same time, I have Insteon in my own home and am not happy with it. I will be going to Z-Wave to try it out. I am not going with Caseta for a few reasons, one of which is I think it will ultimately fail and not be available any more. Radio RA is WAY out of my scope due to the complexity of the system and the simplicity of my small system. This is aside from the exorbitant cost.

You honestly think it is an "honor" to be a factory installed app on an iWatch?? That's kind of sad.

Just so I'm clear on this...
I said that Lutron owns the market.
You disagreed with it.
I showed you numbers that prove you wrong.
You call them meaningless without providing any data of your own.
Do I have that correct?

Radio RA has been obsolete for over 5 years. Radio RA 2 has been around since then and is becoming very dated, as well, compared to newer systems. But unless you work on very expensive homes, you wont see much of it.
Caseta is new, so there's not much out there yet. You are over-estimating what it's intended use is if you think there's going to be keypads and such.
So, I dont disagree with you on the technology points.

And yes, although I'm not an Apple fan, the Apple watch is a groundbreaking device. So far sales are over 3 million units in the US. And Apple carefully selected the apps that would be loaded by the factory on to the watch. Alot of apps didn't make the cut. So, yeah...that's pretty cool.

No, I dont work for Lutron. No, I dont work for Apple.

Not sure why you're being such a douche, but.....whatever dude.
CD

 

[Speedy Petey]

Just so I'm clear on this...
I said that Lutron owns the market.
You disagreed with it.
I showed you numbers that prove you wrong.
You call them meaningless without providing any data of your own.
Do I have that correct?

No, not at all. You gave me Lutron's total numbers when I debated the point that they own what you specifically called "the wireless market". I am well aware that Lutron owns the lighting controls/dimmer market, but I simply disagreed about the wireless "home control" market.

Not sure why you're being such a douche, but.....whatever dude.
CD

Nice. I am actually trying to have a conversation, so really right now it's kind of pot-kettle-black when you make such remarks.

This is not at all a big deal, I was just trying to make a point and it sort of escalated. I completely agree....whatever dude.

 

[I Really Just Don't Know]

I'm going to go with the GE switches. I'll watch the wattage and make sure I don't go over it. We'll see how the SmartHome hub does out there.

 

[sherlocktk]

If you are worried about too much current you can just have the switch drive a 120v relay. Then you are not limited to amperage.

 

[Todd.Brock]

I have the GE switch installed and it's been working great. The traditional switch is a little different looking and has a weird electronic feel to it. But I have it set to come on at dusk and off at dawn. Hasnt skipped a beat

 

[Fallon]

I have some Lutron on-off light switches & dimmer switches. I also have some GE smart switches, most wired up with the special GE dumb switch (about $15) required to do a 3 way. I have a few smart outlets, both GE & Lutron, but I haven't installed those yet.

I like the feel of the Lutron switches a bit more, they feel more solid. They are a 1 button design, push to toggle. The GE switches feel a hair more flimsy & are a rocker design, push up to turn on, push down to turn off. Neither style is really better or worse, but having both in the same house is sub-optimal.

I went with the Lutrons for the first switches, then the GEs for the next order as they were going to be a hair cheaper for the 3 way setup. I wish I had gone for the Lutron 3 ways, just to keep the switches consistent. I'd be 95% as happy if I'd gone with all GE from the beginning too though.

I've got a couple SmartThings multi-sensors & a good handful of Aeon window/door sensors & flood sensors. Aeon seems to be making a decent play into the economy market & makes a big deal about being hub neutral, which I see as being a good thing after what Phillips recently tried to pull (locking competitors out from their allegedly standards compliant stuff).

Also figure in your smart hub, the switches are useless without one. I went with a SmartThings v2 & have been happy with it. Vera is the other main player that's been around a while, it tends to be targeted at the more technical user. Avoid Wink, they are going bankrupt I believe.

SmartThings does Zigbee & Z-Wave, don't remember what the others do.

 

[checkthisout]

Bought a smart things hub and a z-wave switch and some Belkin wifi switches.

The Belkins link up at my chicken coop 160' away whereas the Zwave stuff won't even go 60'.

I really want the zwave stuff to work since they make dimmer switches and have a lot more stuff like motion sensors and such but if the range ***** there's no point.

Anybody have any luck with the repeating function?

 

[Off-Street Parking]

No, not at all. You gave me Lutron's total numbers when I debated the point that they own what you specifically called "the wireless market". I am well aware that Lutron owns the lighting controls/dimmer market, but I simply disagreed about the wireless "home control" market.

I'll second this observation. It's like saying that Honeywell owns the thermostat business because they have $40+ billion in revenue... but not mentioning their aerospace, automotive, materials, chemicals, and numerous other product lines. Without more specific info, it's an apples-to-oranges comparison.

But who are we kidding... Why even talk about these other companies, when we all know that X10 is the REAL home automation leader!

 

[jomobco]

I'm looking to put Z-Wave switches in my 18x36 detached garage. I've been looking at these:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035YRCR2?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

But they are rated at 600 watts, which I think is about 5 amps. I want to run 6 4' fluorescent, or led fixtures each off of 2 switches. If I go led, and can count on ~50 watts per fixture, are these switches ok, or is there a better alternative? What if I end up wanting fluorescent?

There are zwave units you can connect in line to each light and control individually or depending upon your control software - to act as one unit. Those would eliminate the question of the switch.

 

[Fallon]

Bought a smart things hub and a z-wave switch and some Belkin wifi switches.

The Belkins link up at my chicken coop 160' away whereas the Zwave stuff won't even go 60'.

I really want the zwave stuff to work since they make dimmer switches and have a lot more stuff like motion sensors and such but if the range ***** there's no point.

Anybody have any luck with the repeating function?

I have a Z-wave in my chicken coop about 70' line of sight out a window to my hub. I just replaced the 1 Belkin WeMo WiFi switch out my my shop with 3 Z-wave switches. It's about 200' between my office where the SmartThings hub & my WiFi AP are. The WiFi switch barely connected on occasion. The Z-wave switches are a bit flaky occasionally at that range. I haven't gotten around to putting a repeater between the shop & the house yet. I put in conduit out to the shop, but haven't run ethernet out there yet.

I generally did not like those Belkin WeMo switches at all. They were slow & fiddily. I much prefer a home automation protocol for the switches to WiFi. Those switches were always loosing connection & needing resetting or something. Next order of switches will replace the last of my WeMo switches.

 

[checkthisout]

I have a Z-wave in my chicken coop about 70' line of sight out a window to my hub. I just replaced the 1 Belkin WeMo WiFi switch out my my shop with 3 Z-wave switches. It's about 200' between my office where the SmartThings hub & my WiFi AP are. The WiFi switch barely connected on occasion. The Z-wave switches are a bit flaky occasionally at that range. I haven't gotten around to putting a repeater between the shop & the house yet. I put in conduit out to the shop, but haven't run ethernet out there yet.

I generally did not like those Belkin WeMo switches at all. They were slow & fiddily. I much prefer a home automation protocol for the switches to WiFi. Those switches were always loosing connection & needing resetting or something. Next order of switches will replace the last of my WeMo switches.

Wow! You're my beta-testing doppelganger.

So reading this right, you're saying you get (almost) 200' range (with flaky connection) out of your Z-wave stuff, point-to-point? (with clear line of sight)?

My Belkins are working fine (so far, 3 days in) the APP to run them is more simple than the Smartthings app. When I open it, it just brings up my devices right there whereas the smartthings app opens up a security page, then I have to select rooms or devices....

Still haven't played with it much yet but I just want to be able to open the smartthings app and have my switches right there.

 

[Fallon]

Wow! You're my beta-testing doppelganger.

So reading this right, you're saying you get (almost) 200' range (with flaky connection) out of your Z-wave stuff, point-to-point? (with clear line of sight)?

My Belkins are working fine (so far, 3 days in) the APP to run them is more simple than the Smartthings app. When I open it, it just brings up my devices right there whereas the smartthings app opens up a security page, then I have to select rooms or devices....

Still haven't played with it much yet but I just want to be able to open the smartthings app and have my switches right there.

Looks like Google just updated the photos of my house a couple months ago while I was doing the trenching... It was 230' basically from the panel next to my SmartThings hub out to the corner of the shop. I marked where the old WeMo switch out in the shop was & where the 2 Zwave ones are now. Definitely not line of site for the SmartThings hub or WiFi out to the shop.

I've setup some more advanced stuff through SmartThings. Turning on the deck lights also turns on the chicken coop lights. Light switches out in the shop will turn on the deck lights & some others so I can get back to the house in the dark. Set the shop lights to automatically turn off at midnight if I forget them, etc. The SmartThings app is just a lot more powerful & flexible than WeMo.

I also feel that the SmartThings hub is under more active development & better secured. I'd rather have one device running TCP/IP to worry about protecting than dozens. I'm an IT security engineer by trade & very well aware of how vulnerable the Internet of Things stuff is.

 

[checkthisout]

Looks like Google just updated the photos of my house a couple months ago while I was doing the trenching... It was 230' basically from the panel next to my SmartThings hub out to the corner of the shop. I marked where the old WeMo switch out in the shop was & where the 2 Zwave ones are now. Definitely not line of site for the SmartThings hub or WiFi out to the shop.

I've setup some more advanced stuff through SmartThings. Turning on the deck lights also turns on the chicken coop lights. Light switches out in the shop will turn on the deck lights & some others so I can get back to the house in the dark. Set the shop lights to automatically turn off at midnight if I forget them, etc. The SmartThings app is just a lot more powerful & flexible than WeMo.

I also feel that the SmartThings hub is under more active development & better secured. I'd rather have one device running TCP/IP to worry about protecting than dozens. I'm an IT security engineer by trade & very well aware of how vulnerable the Internet of Things stuff is.

Well ok then.

This was the in-depth consultation I was looking for. I'll "rainy day" my Belkin stuff for other projects and focus on Z-wave and keep my Smartthings hub.

Do you think I'll have better luck increasing the range by connecting the devices close to the hub and then taking them out where I want them and hooking them up VS trying to get them to connect from longer distance?

And, do you think I'll get a better signal out of the hub if I place it up higher? Thanks.

 

[checkthisout]

So sure enough, the Belkins, working fine for 2 days, started dropping out 1 by one.

A quick flick of the breaker and they work again for a few minutes but then drop out again.

They come on but then the WIFI light on the front just turns off. So not even good for rainy day stuff. Going back to Amazon.

 

[I Really Just Don't Know]

I'm going to put a SmartThings hub in the barn, so range won't be a problem for me out there. In the house, I use one of these to get my upstairs thermostat online.

 

[checkthisout]

So my Belkins all came back online. I don't know what's goofing up. If the WIFI light is off that means they are connected but I couldn't access them via my phone to operate them. Wait a little while, and all of are working now.

Not sure what the issue is but I'm returning them to Amazon

 

[Fallon]

Height won't help a lot unless there are fewer obstructions. Most powered Zwave devices are repeaters. So a light switch part way between the hub & a flaky device should provide a better connection. The devices will pick there peers based on what's nearby when they get added. So add them in position, not next to the hub. That way they mesh to the best peer.

Check out the SmartThings forum. Lots of good info there.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

 

[checkthisout]

Height won't help a lot unless there are fewer obstructions. Most powered Zwave devices are repeaters. So a light switch part way between the hub & a flaky device should provide a better connection. The devices will pick there peers based on what's nearby when they get added. So add them in position, not next to the hub. That way they mesh to the best peer.

Check out the SmartThings forum. Lots of good info there.

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk

Thank you

 

[Fallon]

https://support.smartthings.com/hc/...sure-my-Z-Wave-devices-are-routing-optimally-

http://blog.smartthings.com/iot101/a-guide-to-wireless-range-repeaters/

 

[jgorm]

I've been pretty happy with my insteon system controlled off an ISY controller. Probably ~ 50 devices.

 

[checkthisout]

So yeah...gonna pull back a little on this Z-wave stuff. I had two switches linked up, one about 20' away from the hub and the other 68' away from the hub but 48' from the other switch.

I couldn't get the second switch to link up so I put some pigtails on it, brought it into the house, applied power and got it paired up with ease. Took it out, tinkered with it for about an hour, killed the power to it by and now it won't relink. Gotta bring it into the house again. I can't having to undo this **** and taking it back to the hub to relink everytime my power flickers.

In the app, it shows the switch turning on and off, dimming etc but it's totally unresponsive.

Same thing with the other switch. I toggled it too fast in the app, it got out of sync and then quit responding and then started responding again 10 minutes later.

I don't really understand how they can design a software program that tells you your switch is on and responding even though there might not even be any power to the switch. What if this system was linked to one of their door locks? Would it be unlocked but show locked in the app or suddenly unlock itself in response to a command from 10 minutes earlier?

Sorry to be a little ***** about it but I have wanted to be able to control **** from my smartphone for a long time. I have been making my own controls out of simple 12V car stuff and using remotes to turn lights on and off that way and I was excited to be jumping into the world of smart switches but man....two systems so far that are just buggy as all hell.

 

[checkthisout]

So lets see here

1) If you run "network repair" it doesn't tell you if the network is repaired, only if something failed. I get both messages "failed to up mesh" and "failed to update route". Why doesn't the app tell you what devices your controller can currently talk to?

2) The app will act like a switch is responding and act as though a switch even if it has fallen off the network.

3) If you toggle the switch too fast in the app the switch stops responding but the app will still show the switch as working. That's just dumb. Maybe they do it that way for lag reasons but I would rather have it be in a true feedback loop.

I dunno, maybe I'm doing something wrong here but this **** seems buggy, proprietary and fragile. I am also getting "Were sorry, but an unexpected error has occurred" each time I open the app but it doesn't tell what the error is.

 

[Fallon]

Sorry to be a little ***** about it but I have wanted to be able to control **** from my smartphone for a long time. I have been making my own controls out of simple 12V car stuff and using remotes to turn lights on and off that way and I was excited to be jumping into the world of smart switches but man....two systems so far that are just buggy as all hell.

Home automation stuff is still in it's infancy. Products aren't that mature in this arena yet, so it's generally a pretty steep learning curve on some not very polished systems. I'd recommend you bring these questions up on the SmartThings forums or appropriate forum for whoever makes your hub. Lots more knowledge there on the oddities of the systems.

I'm experiencing similar issues to you with my 3 switches out at my shop, but given the fact I'm exceeding the distance spec by a fair bit I can't complain to much. I haven't had to many issues at all for all my switches & sensors in my house (in appropriate range).

 

[86turbodsl]

Another forum to go get educated on home automation is at cocoontech.com

No connection, but did learn a lot there before i built my house.

I went to wired over wireless. I don't like EM fields for control of anything if i can help it.

 

[checkthisout]

Home automation stuff is still in it's infancy. Products aren't that mature in this arena yet, so it's generally a pretty steep learning curve on some not very polished systems. I'd recommend you bring these questions up on the SmartThings forums or appropriate forum for whoever makes your hub. Lots more knowledge there on the oddities of the systems.

I'm experiencing similar issues to you with my 3 switches out at my shop, but given the fact I'm exceeding the distance spec by a fair bit I can't complain to much. I haven't had to many issues at all for all my switches & sensors in my house (in appropriate range).

Yeah, I'll do that I just didn't want to spend this much time trying to make like more simple ya know. So

I got two more switches in hopes that the issue was reception. The first switch is 20', from the hub, the second switch is 28' from the first and the last one 20' from the second, all switches are directly in line with each other.

They linked up fine, worked for 10 minutes then they all quit working, even the one that is 20' from the hub with the hub pointing directly at it. Run network repair, fails to update mesh and route for wall switches.

I just got a message from Samsnug that they are updating the Hub on Thursday so we'll see what happens then.

If it's just to add more **** I'm sending it all back to Amazon. I don't need more features when the basic part doesn't function correctly.

 

[Fallon]

Sounds like you might have some serious RF reception or interference issues at your place. There should be no problems connecting to a device 20' from the hub unless you are in a Faraday cage or something.