Yep. The "eye" in the sky. My neighbor wanted to get a permit to build a photovoltaic system on their property. He said they overflew his property with a drone and busted him for a couple of unpermitted buildings and a unpermitted above ground pool. No system happening there now. And that's something the state actually wants. I think the county actually used satellite images and not a drone.Pretty much no restrictions on barrels to collect rainwater, you could even connect a few 5000gal tanks to collect it.... might take a while to fill though... but like Zeph said, the regulations are designed to prevent people from diverting or damming creeks etc... bit difficult to track if ya just throw 2 or 3 basketball size rocks in a small creek every month... under a particular tree..... but the State does use satellite surveillance to compare creeks & ponds etc from one month to the next.
Above 1200 Sq/FT Zeph's Quasi WWII Era Shop
- Thread starter zepher11
- Start date
Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
Installed the front housing and differential gears. Geez, took me a few hours to install those weird front Jeep shackles things. Couldn't get them to look the same. All depends when the caps start to thread. Then the driver's side spring screw became stuck in the spring eye. What a pain. Don't want to do another VC. All I wanted was the springs to be in the same plane. Not sure how the squared the chassis after the axle housings were installed. No mention of it in the TM's. I string the chassis after I get the wheels on to make sure the front and rear axle housings are square with each other. Lot's of room for error there. No set place for them to be on the springs. Can move them quite a bit. No wonder these trucks get the death wobble without a squared chassis:
That thing was stuck in the spring eye big time:
Felts all installed:
The driver side spring bolts were too short by a bout 3/8's of an inch. Found a longer set that were pretty rugged and bent, but heated them up and straightened them. Then cleaned them up and primed and painted OD:
The u-joint clamps have these interesting nut keepers that are bent to keep the nut from wandering away I suppose. Haven't dealt with these Detroit type joints before:
The tall nuts I sourced for the knuckles and the differentials were a little taller than the originals, but don't look to bad:
Ready to install the bumperettes. I have the chain hook bolts, but not sure where to put the trailer socket on this truck. Bumperettes are not like the Dodge WC half-tons that wrapped around the side of the frame where the typical trailer socket bracket would bolt:
That thing was stuck in the spring eye big time:
Felts all installed:
The driver side spring bolts were too short by a bout 3/8's of an inch. Found a longer set that were pretty rugged and bent, but heated them up and straightened them. Then cleaned them up and primed and painted OD:
The u-joint clamps have these interesting nut keepers that are bent to keep the nut from wandering away I suppose. Haven't dealt with these Detroit type joints before:
The tall nuts I sourced for the knuckles and the differentials were a little taller than the originals, but don't look to bad:
Ready to install the bumperettes. I have the chain hook bolts, but not sure where to put the trailer socket on this truck. Bumperettes are not like the Dodge WC half-tons that wrapped around the side of the frame where the typical trailer socket bracket would bolt:
Cleaned up a few more parts. Plus need to get the brakes started. First, I checked out the tie rods. Had some NOS Dodge WC tie rods, but then discovered that the VC tie rods are different. Ended up reconditioning the ones I pulled off. They weren't in too bad of shape:
Then time to install the crazy rear axles with their funky bearing arrangement:
Then the race goes in:
Then the shims. I searched the Technical Manual, but it does not have the procedure to adjust the rear axle bearing pre-load. It says the rear axle bearings are adjusted with a lock nut like the fronts, but that is not the case. Everything seems really tight to me, but what the hell. I just put in the same shims I removed. Hopefully, the truck will roll:
Hub seal:
Always seems there are way more brake parts than what I removed. Actually, there are. I had to get some extra spacers that were missing for the lower brake shoe pivot point:
Thought I was going to get to use my WWII brake mounting tool. It's pretty slick. Measures the drum and then transfers it to the brake pads. However, I tried to follow the tapered axle instructions, which seemed like it would work. Nope. Does not take into account the key channel for the hub. Can't spin it 360 degrees around the axle due to the channel:
Slid in the front axles and bolted the spindle and the backing plate up:
Next need to install the front brakes, and figure out the adjustments for all the brake pads. Especially the rear hub and pads. Not like it's easy to remove the rear hub, so I'm hoping the wheel cylinder doesn't leak and the pads are close to the correct adjustment.
Then time to install the crazy rear axles with their funky bearing arrangement:
Then the race goes in:
Then the shims. I searched the Technical Manual, but it does not have the procedure to adjust the rear axle bearing pre-load. It says the rear axle bearings are adjusted with a lock nut like the fronts, but that is not the case. Everything seems really tight to me, but what the hell. I just put in the same shims I removed. Hopefully, the truck will roll:
Hub seal:
Always seems there are way more brake parts than what I removed. Actually, there are. I had to get some extra spacers that were missing for the lower brake shoe pivot point:
Thought I was going to get to use my WWII brake mounting tool. It's pretty slick. Measures the drum and then transfers it to the brake pads. However, I tried to follow the tapered axle instructions, which seemed like it would work. Nope. Does not take into account the key channel for the hub. Can't spin it 360 degrees around the axle due to the channel:
Slid in the front axles and bolted the spindle and the backing plate up:
Next need to install the front brakes, and figure out the adjustments for all the brake pads. Especially the rear hub and pads. Not like it's easy to remove the rear hub, so I'm hoping the wheel cylinder doesn't leak and the pads are close to the correct adjustment.
mybigwarwagon
Well-known member
Could you cut a key down so that it fills in the keyway?
Thought about that, but it would have to a perfect fit as well as tapered to match the axle as well. The brake tool is kinda funky in that it just had a clamp that catches the edges. Not a good design. It may be a moot point as I can't get the drum on over the brake shoes when the shoes are adjusted all the way back. Super tight. Which is good and bad. Bad that the vehicle may not roll with the hub on, and good that there's actually brake material that will touch the drum. Some of my other trucks the new brake shoes barely adjust to the hub after a few surfacings over the past 80 years.
I'm going to ponder the brake issue as I try to figure out how to set the end play of the rear axles. They are super tight, so will need to source and cut some metal shims to get the correct adjustment.
I have 0 endplay. Had to hammer the axle back out today. Barely tightened the backing plate bolts and it became super tight. Need some more shims. Now need to figure out how to make them out of metal. Not sure how to cut the big hole and the five bolt holes in the metal yet. A guy I know did it on his VC and has shot this photo he sent to me. He found the instructions in a civilian Dodge truck manual since the Army TM is incorrect:
bugnut
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Looks to me you might be able to just put a shim on each stud, much like a wave washer. The is a shim for ford tractors that look a lot like that.
BORING HOP YARD
Well-known member
I have used "shim stock" before, might be able to but it at a machine tool supply as well.
I hadn't thought about that. That would work too. Be a lot easier than cutting stock.
That's the exact kit I purchased last evening. Then while I was looking around afterward, I found these in the photo below. My usual old Dodge truck places do not have these. I'm going to try and set the end-play with the shims from the passenger side on the driver's side and see how that goes. May give me an indicator on what/how many shims to order:
Still waiting for the rear axle shims, but used all the shims I had and came pretty close to setting the end-play on the passenger side. However, I'm still off a bit. Hope to get the extra shims in a few days:
I ordered some shim stock, and then shortly thereafter found a source for the Dodge rear axle shims. That'll make it much easier to dial in. At least I hope it does.
I saved this intermediate shaft. It was pretty rugged, but I think it's good to go now. It was set up out of phase, but one can see the alignment arrows on both of the links if one looks closely enough:
Also harvested some brake, fuel and wiring harness clips and cleaned those up to be ready when I get to that point:
Finally received an outer axle bearing snap ring. What a pain. All of the bearings insert from the inside. Also converted the inner snap ring to the style that has the holes. A lot easier to install and remove:
Inner bearing and seal installed and snapped:
Received a supply of NOS front axle nuts for the VC from Midwest Military. Thank you. I Cleaned them up. Have me ground down Jeep lock washers ready to go as well:
Now on to installing the front brakes as I wait for the rear axle shims:
Not so fast. Check out the clearance, or lack of clearance for the brake inlet bolts. Had to pull everything apart to get that bolt installed. What a terrible design from what they have on the Dodge WC's.
Actually, worse is that I discovered that once the hub and drum are installed, it's impossible to adjust the lower heel of the brake pad. Clearance issues:
Thankfully, I have the brake tool that helped dial in the drums to the brake shoes. Works great on the front axle spindles:
Time to install the hubs. Instead of using one axle nut like it was done when I disassembled it, I'm using two axle nuts and a lock washer like the TM shows:
Used the elusive 2" socket that I ground down to fit within the small hub opening. Works pretty good:
All done:
Wait, not so fast my friend! After I installed the hubs flanges the axles would not turn at all. What a buzz kill:
I initially couldn't turn the axles after I isolated the axle from the hub which led me to believe that the axle thrust button was the issue:
After pulling everything apart and re-installing a few times, I'm pretty sure it's the hub flanges. They need a shim:
Since shims are not available, I tried to make my own:
Quite the messy job after having everything in decent shape:
I think I really need a shim about 1/8 of an inch or thicker for the front hubs. Thinking about finding some 1/8 inch aluminum to see if I can make shims from that. Not sure how to punch that large center hole in the aluminum, however. I don't have a complete machine shop. It's either that, or make about five more of the crude shim I made above. That might be the way to go...
I ordered some shim stock, and then shortly thereafter found a source for the Dodge rear axle shims. That'll make it much easier to dial in. At least I hope it does.
I saved this intermediate shaft. It was pretty rugged, but I think it's good to go now. It was set up out of phase, but one can see the alignment arrows on both of the links if one looks closely enough:
Also harvested some brake, fuel and wiring harness clips and cleaned those up to be ready when I get to that point:
Finally received an outer axle bearing snap ring. What a pain. All of the bearings insert from the inside. Also converted the inner snap ring to the style that has the holes. A lot easier to install and remove:
Inner bearing and seal installed and snapped:
Received a supply of NOS front axle nuts for the VC from Midwest Military. Thank you. I Cleaned them up. Have me ground down Jeep lock washers ready to go as well:
Now on to installing the front brakes as I wait for the rear axle shims:
Not so fast. Check out the clearance, or lack of clearance for the brake inlet bolts. Had to pull everything apart to get that bolt installed. What a terrible design from what they have on the Dodge WC's.
Actually, worse is that I discovered that once the hub and drum are installed, it's impossible to adjust the lower heel of the brake pad. Clearance issues:
Thankfully, I have the brake tool that helped dial in the drums to the brake shoes. Works great on the front axle spindles:
Time to install the hubs. Instead of using one axle nut like it was done when I disassembled it, I'm using two axle nuts and a lock washer like the TM shows:
Used the elusive 2" socket that I ground down to fit within the small hub opening. Works pretty good:
All done:
Wait, not so fast my friend! After I installed the hubs flanges the axles would not turn at all. What a buzz kill:
I initially couldn't turn the axles after I isolated the axle from the hub which led me to believe that the axle thrust button was the issue:
After pulling everything apart and re-installing a few times, I'm pretty sure it's the hub flanges. They need a shim:
Since shims are not available, I tried to make my own:
Quite the messy job after having everything in decent shape:
I think I really need a shim about 1/8 of an inch or thicker for the front hubs. Thinking about finding some 1/8 inch aluminum to see if I can make shims from that. Not sure how to punch that large center hole in the aluminum, however. I don't have a complete machine shop. It's either that, or make about five more of the crude shim I made above. That might be the way to go...
RickP
Well-known member
Great job so far on the reassembly!
With only some technical info available, it sounds like you've got quite a bit of detective work at each step.
With only some technical info available, it sounds like you've got quite a bit of detective work at each step.
RickP
Well-known member
Would an air nibbler work to enlarge a smaller drilled hole?
I'm not sure if it would leave a finished looking edge on aluminum that was 1/8 thick - maybe two layers 1/16 thick would work. If you want one thick shim, I saw a heavy duty air nibbler on Amazon that will cut 10 gauge (.102") aluminum, but it was over $200. There's got to be a less expensive way than that.
You could always make your own steel die for cutting the hole with a shop press, but that sounds like a lot of work for a one-time use tool.
Last edited:
XJSuperman
Well-known member
I'm wondering why you are having to shim everything on this axle. Are the shafts not seated in the diff fully? Are they the correct shafts (length, splines, etc)? Something just seems off to me as a whole. Might be time to take a step back before making more shims.
slik560
Well-known member
I have to ask an unrelated question: are you using a camera-camera for all of these photos or are you using a camera-phone? Great quality as far as color and detail.
I've never used a nibbler, but I may need to look at that as an option. I ended up drilling a series of holes and cutting with my jig saw. Looks like ****, but it's a hole...so called. lol Can't see it once installed, so I think I'm good to go.
Pretty common to shim these Bendix axles with the ball bearings in them. I did pull the axles and checked the thrust buttons to make sure all was good there. Usually, I have enough shims from disassembly, but when I received this project, the axle flanges weren't bolted all the way down. Now I know why. Once can get shims for the 1941 Dodge trucks, but this 1940 one off production is hard to find parts. After working on the Dodge WC's that came the next year, I can see they did fix a lot of things. Four wheel drive was still a fairly new concept then.
Here's a shot from a Technical Manual. #2 is the shim for dialing in the axle. Lot more room on the Dodge WC's vs. the 1940 Dodge VC's. No wonder there are only like 10 of these trucks around. lol
I have contact with two individuals that have restored these 1940 VC's and they said that there is a whole lotta shimming going on. I think Dodge learned and when the scrapped the VC's they improved everything.
Yes, it's my iPhone. I had an iPhone 4 that took fantastic photos, and then went swimming with it. Totally bummed. Had a iPhone 6 and it took the worst photos. Just updated to this iPhone 11. Man, I love the photos. I shoot the photo and immediately e-mail to myself. Then later I open the 4mb file size it and snap it and save the 65k file and save. Love the snapping tool on my laptop.
Went to the local metal shop to see if I could find some aluminum. They didn't even charge me for a 12 inch by 12 inch sheet of 1/8 inch aluminum. Always impressed with their customer service!
Cut up another shim out of the aluminum for each of the front hubs. I also had to add the two sheet metal shims I made to get the clearance Clarence. However, now I can use my tall nuts as they now do not cover the stud and are left hanging. Looks like regular nuts will fit perfectly now. I thought I had some acorn nuts that I thought would look kinda cool, but don't have fine thread 3/8". Only coarse thread. Oh well. Maybe the next time I'm at ACE I will check them out. However, they are probably about $3 a nut now. They say inflation is 5%, but everything I buy is up 50 to 70%. It's crazy. A few months ago I bought the Xylene equivalent at $30 a gallon Yesterday $47! My blasting media was $6.99 a bag....now $10.99! Not to mention fuel is up about 100%. Thought about buying one of the new GMC trucks. Quoted a price of $62k last year. Now $95k. So much for 5% lol. Well, at least we know it's only going to get worse. Anyway, back to your regularly scheduled program:
Hubs are all dialed in now. Not a lot of room in there. I really wanted to bend the axle nut lock washer, but I can't figure out how to bend it. Tried a number of things to no avail. May just have to leave it like this:
I also received my rear axle shims, so I think I can get to that today.
Cut up another shim out of the aluminum for each of the front hubs. I also had to add the two sheet metal shims I made to get the clearance Clarence. However, now I can use my tall nuts as they now do not cover the stud and are left hanging. Looks like regular nuts will fit perfectly now. I thought I had some acorn nuts that I thought would look kinda cool, but don't have fine thread 3/8". Only coarse thread. Oh well. Maybe the next time I'm at ACE I will check them out. However, they are probably about $3 a nut now. They say inflation is 5%, but everything I buy is up 50 to 70%. It's crazy. A few months ago I bought the Xylene equivalent at $30 a gallon Yesterday $47! My blasting media was $6.99 a bag....now $10.99! Not to mention fuel is up about 100%. Thought about buying one of the new GMC trucks. Quoted a price of $62k last year. Now $95k. So much for 5% lol. Well, at least we know it's only going to get worse. Anyway, back to your regularly scheduled program:
Hubs are all dialed in now. Not a lot of room in there. I really wanted to bend the axle nut lock washer, but I can't figure out how to bend it. Tried a number of things to no avail. May just have to leave it like this:
I also received my rear axle shims, so I think I can get to that today.
ZRX61
Well-known member
Make the larger center hole with one of these:
Can also be used to cut the outer diameter.
Can also be used to cut the outer diameter.
ZRX61
Well-known member
There's a few similar designs, some have two cutters. Just need to clamp the metal to a piece of wood for the drill bit to center when cutting inner & outer doodads
Ended up taking the Carryall and my Dodge WC52 to the Veterans Day parade today. The forecast was for rain, but it held off. Misted a bit, but no measurable rain.
I let the local historical society use the WC52 in the parade. The dogs were stoked when I mentioned parade, but they were bummed when I didn't take them. It was a full day as the parade is about 30 miles from the house, so ferrying the trucks and getting everything taken care of didn't leave a lot of time for dog monitoring:
Parade doesn't start till 10am, but still have to get there about 6am:
Kim was so grateful for the the lift during the parade. She is Korean and was in Korea during the war as a child. She saw her father shot and eventually married a GI years later and came to the states 50 years ago. She is the most patriotic American I know by far. I remembered two years ago she expressed interest in a ride in one of the trucks. She was happy I remembered and called her a few weeks ago. She had just won a distinguished citizens award in her two last month:
My neighbors down the street in their 1944 Ford GPW:
Parade route:
Happy there was no rain!
I let the local historical society use the WC52 in the parade. The dogs were stoked when I mentioned parade, but they were bummed when I didn't take them. It was a full day as the parade is about 30 miles from the house, so ferrying the trucks and getting everything taken care of didn't leave a lot of time for dog monitoring:
Parade doesn't start till 10am, but still have to get there about 6am:
Kim was so grateful for the the lift during the parade. She is Korean and was in Korea during the war as a child. She saw her father shot and eventually married a GI years later and came to the states 50 years ago. She is the most patriotic American I know by far. I remembered two years ago she expressed interest in a ride in one of the trucks. She was happy I remembered and called her a few weeks ago. She had just won a distinguished citizens award in her two last month:
My neighbors down the street in their 1944 Ford GPW:
Parade route:
Happy there was no rain!
mybigwarwagon
Well-known member
Looks like a good day.
In other news, I did receive the rear axle shims last week. They would fit, so I had to drill out the five holes. Not an easy task:
Quite a large key for the rear hub:
Still can barely get the drums on due the brake shoes. Only place that does the arching is in Sacramento. I used the old drum and inserted some sticky backed sandpaper and shaved off a few thousandths. Still not enough. I then installed the pads and then put the sandpaper drum and spun it around a gazillion times. Thought I had it:
Installed everything and seemed to spin well until the hub was fully bolted on. Can barely spin the drums on each side now. Took it all apart again. Axles spin super easy and still have the end-play I dialed in. I think it's the combination of the new rear hub seals and the brakes still dragging a bit. Also, when I tightened the yokes up on the differentials with the impact gun, they are a bit tight and hard to spin. Not sure if they will loosen up when I get an engine in there and pop the clutch. If I put the wheels and tires on now, I wouldn't even be able to roll it around due to the front and rear axles being so tight. Back to the drawing board
Moved on and installed the bumperettes. Also had to drill out the oblong hole in the bumperettes for the chain eye bolt. That was an even bigger pain than drilling out the shims:
Then on to some shocks:
Slipped in the new bushings. Kinda tricky:
Trying to figure out how thick the rubber should be for the transfer case spacers. I have about a 1/4" piece of rubber, but thinking it may be too thick?
Also cleaned up some bolts for the transfer case, transmission and the front bumper:
Quite a large key for the rear hub:
Still can barely get the drums on due the brake shoes. Only place that does the arching is in Sacramento. I used the old drum and inserted some sticky backed sandpaper and shaved off a few thousandths. Still not enough. I then installed the pads and then put the sandpaper drum and spun it around a gazillion times. Thought I had it:
Installed everything and seemed to spin well until the hub was fully bolted on. Can barely spin the drums on each side now. Took it all apart again. Axles spin super easy and still have the end-play I dialed in. I think it's the combination of the new rear hub seals and the brakes still dragging a bit. Also, when I tightened the yokes up on the differentials with the impact gun, they are a bit tight and hard to spin. Not sure if they will loosen up when I get an engine in there and pop the clutch. If I put the wheels and tires on now, I wouldn't even be able to roll it around due to the front and rear axles being so tight. Back to the drawing board
Moved on and installed the bumperettes. Also had to drill out the oblong hole in the bumperettes for the chain eye bolt. That was an even bigger pain than drilling out the shims:
Then on to some shocks:
Slipped in the new bushings. Kinda tricky:
Trying to figure out how thick the rubber should be for the transfer case spacers. I have about a 1/4" piece of rubber, but thinking it may be too thick?
Also cleaned up some bolts for the transfer case, transmission and the front bumper:
Just to compare. At SEMA this year. It looks good, but I prefer the original.
slik560
Well-known member
As we've all seen here, going back to original is a herculean task...lots of tasks. I cannot blame the owner for this iteration of the old Powerwagon...at least IT'S STILL ROLLING!
Pretty nice rig. I bet it's a blast to drive. I do like going back to the "how they came out of the factory" look, but I don't begrudge what other people do with their vehicles.Just to compare. At SEMA this year. It looks good, but I prefer the original.
I was side tracked for a few days, but moved forward a little more the past couple of days. Stated thinking about the transfer case shims and the rubber vibration insulators. First, I can't figure out why the have four 1/4 inch transfer case shims for the mounts made of metal. I think I would have made the mounts a 1/4 inch longer, but what do I know. Must be a good reason. I looked around the shop for some rubber, and finally found a little chunk of radiator hose that I save. See, hoarding does come in handy on occasion. lol
After I was able to get that out of my mind, I turned my thoughts to the shocks and replacing the rubber bushings. Lots of little parts to the knee action shocks:
Figured I'd paint the body and running mount wood blocks while I was working on the shocks:
Now onto the fuel tank and trying to figure out a strap solution for the lower side. I had the original brackets for the top of the tank. Pretty heavy duty metal clips. Seems a bit of overkill and a waste of metal:
I had some weird tanks straps, so checked those out and it looked like they would fit fairly well, so cut of the straps and modified them to work:
Looks like they will work. I had some 1 inch wide 1/4 inch felt that I used to line the lower straps:
Found a tag inside the tank as I was cleaning it out. It's an NOS tank from about 1963 it appears. I heard that it's from Canada and it was for some type of Plymouth car. Fits well, howevrer:
Painted up the tank:
Finally, after sanding down the brakes and having the hubs on and off for what seems like a hundred times the rear wheels are actually mounted! Still was worried about how tight everything is at the rear axle:
Had to source a battery box. Figures, I had a nice one and sold it! I should have my hoarding card revoked immediate
So, was thinking I was going to get the front wheels on. Not so fast my friend. Like everything else on this VC the tolerances are tight. Foiled by modern sized lock washers. I couldn't get the wheel past these as the stuck out like a thousandth of an inch!
Anyway, after dealing with the above issue....ta da! A rolling chassis. Was worried I wouldn't be able to push it around due to the tightness in the front and rear axles. I was wrong. Rolls like butter. Very happy about that:
After spending so much time on the chassis, now I can move on and dink around with the engine:
Thought I would get the wiring, brake lines and fuel lines run around the engine area before I attempted to install the engine:
Engine install time:
Had this starter rebuilt and stuck it into place:
The rebuilt generator, which is correct for a VC1, was a bit of work. I don't have the original genny bracket. The genny is smaller than a Dodge WC, however I modified a Dodge WC 6 volt genny lower bracket to fit. I also had to use a Dodge WC 12 volt upper bracket to get everything to fit:
I had picked up two Dodge WC half-ton transfer cases some time ago, so pulled them out and will use one for the VC. I have to switch the mechanic yokes to the Detroit style yokes:
Donor transfer case for the harvesting of the Detroit style yokes on the left with the NOS transfer case on the right. I hem hawed on trying to figure out if I should open up the NOS transfer case or leave it as is and just change the yokes and seals:
The Detroit yokes look great. No wear grooves in them. That's great!
I like taking off the Detroit yokes vs. the mechanic yokes. Barely can get to the mechanic yoke cotter pins as they are recessed down inside. was a bit of work to get them out:
Oh hell, popped open the NOS case. I just couldn't stand it. I'll replace the gaskets, seals and get everything cleaned up. Oh well:
In the meantime, I searched and searched and found some 3/8 inch x 24 acorn nuts. I thought it would look cool to have them on the front axle flanges. Wha'dya think? Of course I'll blast and paint OD. Had a better finished look than just plain ol' nuts, eh?:
I also installed the five running board frame brackets:
Finished up the modification of the generator brackets. Everything appears to be in alinement now....belt-wise that is:
Looks good enough for government work now:
mybigwarwagon
Well-known member
Looks great so far.
Grizz1963
Well-known member
Continue to just look and smile.
So much amazing work that you do.
So much amazing work that you do.
XJSuperman
Well-known member
Acorn nuts don't look bad. I'd definitely paint them OD. Nice work!
Thanks guys. I did blast and paint up the acorn nuts. Don't look bad at all. Actually like the finished look vs. the original plain nuts.
Been goofing off raking leaves, putting up Christmas lights, and enjoying the Thanksgiving holiday. I did sneak in a little time to work on the VC1.
Received my hood ornament from the chrome shop. Price was reasonable for the place in Reno. $135 all in with shipping both ways. A pit here and there, but looks great:
I also finally bit the bullet to straighten the front frame rails so I could install the bumper. Pondered it for some time, but finally had to resort to heat to make it happen. Didn't want to burn off the new primer and paint, but what's one to do. Here's the bend before I started. Tilted inward:
Cleaned up and repainted:
It's a collision of bolts in this area. Almost like the German war machine. Why use one part when ten parts will do the same thing:
Nice to get it all together. Still will have to take it apart a bit to get the brush guard on later:
Also finished up the transfer case:
Hulking this thing up with one hand and trying to install the bolts, shims and rubber insulators is a workout. Still think a third hand would be a good mutation to the human body. Darn thing must weigh about 80 to 100 lbs.
I kept noticing the shocks, or shock links actually, didn't look quite right. Seemed like the were in full rebound, or at their limit of travel. I had some NOS long straight shock links, so heated them up and bent them to fit. Did add a little extra travel where the arm sits in the middle of its travel. Probably just over thinking it as usual:
I had some NOS cage nuts for the transmission that are actually good. Had about 10 others that just had a hint of rust on them which makes them useless. Really a bummer. I guess it's good to have a couple good ones:
The transmission is pretty rugged. Looks like it ran for quite a while without the speedo cable on. Also had a standard nut holding on the parking brake drum. Usually they are a castellated nut. It did have a cotter pin in there to keep it from backing all the way off, but the nut was still backed off about an 1/8 of an inch. The nut was large where I couldn't get a wrench or a thin wall socket on it, so had to heat it up and chisel it off:
Some of the other nuts were quite rusted and the heads were toast. Had to weld some nuts on a few to get them off:
Overall it look pretty good inside gear wise. Some of the shafts are grooved beyond re-use. Likely due to the loose nut:
Found a castellated nut, so when I put it back together it hopefully won't back off like the non-castellated nut did:
Been goofing off raking leaves, putting up Christmas lights, and enjoying the Thanksgiving holiday. I did sneak in a little time to work on the VC1.
Received my hood ornament from the chrome shop. Price was reasonable for the place in Reno. $135 all in with shipping both ways. A pit here and there, but looks great:
I also finally bit the bullet to straighten the front frame rails so I could install the bumper. Pondered it for some time, but finally had to resort to heat to make it happen. Didn't want to burn off the new primer and paint, but what's one to do. Here's the bend before I started. Tilted inward:
Cleaned up and repainted:
It's a collision of bolts in this area. Almost like the German war machine. Why use one part when ten parts will do the same thing:
Nice to get it all together. Still will have to take it apart a bit to get the brush guard on later:
Also finished up the transfer case:
Hulking this thing up with one hand and trying to install the bolts, shims and rubber insulators is a workout. Still think a third hand would be a good mutation to the human body. Darn thing must weigh about 80 to 100 lbs.
I kept noticing the shocks, or shock links actually, didn't look quite right. Seemed like the were in full rebound, or at their limit of travel. I had some NOS long straight shock links, so heated them up and bent them to fit. Did add a little extra travel where the arm sits in the middle of its travel. Probably just over thinking it as usual:
I had some NOS cage nuts for the transmission that are actually good. Had about 10 others that just had a hint of rust on them which makes them useless. Really a bummer. I guess it's good to have a couple good ones:
The transmission is pretty rugged. Looks like it ran for quite a while without the speedo cable on. Also had a standard nut holding on the parking brake drum. Usually they are a castellated nut. It did have a cotter pin in there to keep it from backing all the way off, but the nut was still backed off about an 1/8 of an inch. The nut was large where I couldn't get a wrench or a thin wall socket on it, so had to heat it up and chisel it off:
Some of the other nuts were quite rusted and the heads were toast. Had to weld some nuts on a few to get them off:
Overall it look pretty good inside gear wise. Some of the shafts are grooved beyond re-use. Likely due to the loose nut:
Found a castellated nut, so when I put it back together it hopefully won't back off like the non-castellated nut did:
racer-john
Well-known member
"Still think a third hand would be a good mutation to the human body." Where would you like it, a second right/left arm or in the middle of the chest? Lol.
racer-john
Well-known member
My (at the time) girlfriend was watching me work on my car, when I said I wish I had a third hand. Her replay was 'I'm gland you dont', I have enough trouble with your two.
mybigwarwagon
Well-known member
I have 5 kids. I always have a spare hand.
lol...I was thinking left side for holding things. That's a good retort by your girlfriend. Sounds like she has a great sense of humor!
We have 5 boys. Maybe one has some mechanical abilities. They only come by when their cars need me to perform maintenance. I do get calls to help them. My calls for help go unanswered. They all seem to have the same attitude my father had. Keep one's hands clean at all times. I guess it skips a generation here.
slik560
Well-known member
Today's kids of driving age think that as long as a car starts, and moves, it's fine and needs no attention. I don't know where society took the wrong fork in the road - maybe when they stopped having shop classes and auto shop classes in schools. As long as they have a phone in their hand, they care about little else...except their friends. Family is there to feed on, not to help.
Yep, they rely on others to bail them out. End of the self-reliant era for sure.Today's kids of driving age think that as long as a car starts, and moves, it's fine and needs no attention. I don't know where society took the wrong fork in the road - maybe when they stopped having shop classes and auto shop classes in schools. As long as they have a phone in their hand, they care about little else...except their friends. Family is there to feed on, not to help.
In other news: Some photos from last night's local lighted Christmas parade. The amount of entrants, and the amount of spectators, was amazing. Seems like it was ten to 20 people deep all the way around the route, which was significant. Had to use the air conditioner on the way there. That did seem odd going to a Christmas event, but been that way many times since I was a kid.
Alice and Ralph attended and were lit up as well. Ralph more ways than others:
Below photo is of my favorite restaurant. Go here every year for my BD. Opened in the early 1930's. Never remodeled inside, so it has a great feel. Of course, they keep the lights very low. Probably for good reason. lol
250
Well-known member
Nice. We went to the local christmas parade a couple weeks ago here, good turn out. The locals that have been here for a while told me later that it was great turn out. I think people are just happy to get out and do thing that remind them of normal.
ZRX61
Well-known member
Maybe women should have a third ****.. between their shoulders... for when your dancing together...
Finished up our annual family Christmas party early this year. My wife evicts all my shop junk to make room. Makes be cringe when it's raining with my trucks and tools outside. Tarped of course, but that doesn't help. lol
Before the storm transformation:
Some adult refreshments:
All lit up. The grandkids totally love it:
Anyhoo, continued on the transmission the pas few weeks. Had to make a gasket for the T-case mount. Used masking tape as a template, and they transferred it to gasket material:
Finished cleaning up some more parts:
Rebuilt the shifter tower:
Transmission proper:
Had some main shaft bearings. First one was really loose, ended up using an older used one that fit the shaft better. Hoping it'll be ok:
Time to install. Had this NOS throwout bearing assembly. Even comes with the pull back spring:
Not a fan of the Detroit u-joints. Lots of work trying to make sure they're centered. I like the mechanic u-joints that the self-center. I think I have them pretty close, but I see why the went to the mechanic u-joint. I'm assuming they fixed the Detroit flaw on the 3/4 ton trucks.
In any event, it's always fun!
/
Before the storm transformation:
Some adult refreshments:
All lit up. The grandkids totally love it:
Anyhoo, continued on the transmission the pas few weeks. Had to make a gasket for the T-case mount. Used masking tape as a template, and they transferred it to gasket material:
Finished cleaning up some more parts:
Rebuilt the shifter tower:
Transmission proper:
Had some main shaft bearings. First one was really loose, ended up using an older used one that fit the shaft better. Hoping it'll be ok:
Time to install. Had this NOS throwout bearing assembly. Even comes with the pull back spring:
Not a fan of the Detroit u-joints. Lots of work trying to make sure they're centered. I like the mechanic u-joints that the self-center. I think I have them pretty close, but I see why the went to the mechanic u-joint. I'm assuming they fixed the Detroit flaw on the 3/4 ton trucks.
In any event, it's always fun!
/
Followed this thread before and just got caught up.
On your seat covers, what type of canvas are you using? I want to do some covers for a civilian jeep and am contemplating brown canvas. There are many different weights and types it's easy to get a little frustrated.
On your seat covers, what type of canvas are you using? I want to do some covers for a civilian jeep and am contemplating brown canvas. There are many different weights and types it's easy to get a little frustrated.
Hi Bert,
Not exactly sure what canvas I have. Tough to get the WWII style canvas, so had to order it through a third party. One is what they call the wet canvas for cargo tops, and the dry canvas for the seats. The wet canvas is a little thicker than the dry canvas.
I know it's measured by it's weight. I did buy some myself at Big Duck Canvas. Not quite like the WWII canvas, but it's thick and durable. Here's a link to the Olive Drab below, but I think there are better options if one chooses a different color. These places will send samples. I requested a few in my quest to find WWII style canvas before I found out one can't order it. Also, there is Chicago Canvas.
Here's the link: https://www.bigduckcanvas.com/search.php?search_query=Olive Drab§ion=content