Zero clearance insert question

[oldpops]

Hello all! I have a Craftsman 113 series table saw and I am looking for a zero clearance insert. I removed the one that is on the saw and it measures 14" inches long X 3-3/4" wide X 1/8" inches thick. I see that Peachtree offers one they say is for this saw but theirs is 3/16" inches thick. Anyone here with a (newer) 113 series saw replace the insert? I am wondering if Peachtree's 3/16" measurement is actually the 1/8", or am I doing something wrong when I measured? Anyone here know of a place to get the inserts that measure the 14" inches long X 3-34" inches wide X 1/8" inch thick? Obviously I don't want to catch the wood on the insert lip so I thought I would come here and ask you folks. Thanks in advance to all who help!

 

[Max]

Hello all! I have a Craftsman 113 series table saw and I am looking for a zero clearance insert. I removed the one that is on the saw and it measures 14" inches long X 3-3/4" wide X 1/8" inches thick. I see that Peachtree offers one they say is for this saw but theirs is 3/16" inches thick. Anyone here with a (newer) 113 series saw replace the insert? I am wondering if Peachtree's 3/16" measurement is actually the 1/8", or am I doing something wrong when I measured? Anyone here know of a place to get the inserts that measure the 14" inches long X 3-34" inches wide X 1/8" inch thick? Obviously I don't want to catch the wood on the insert lip so I thought I would come here and ask you folks. Thanks in advance to all who help!

Amazon saws this is 3/16 and it works: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DD1BJ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

The first review says it works for a 113…. Depending on what equipment you have (jointer or planer, bandsaw helps) I generally just make my own…

 

[oldpops]

I did some more checking since there are 4 holes along the the edges of the insert, 2 on each side. From what I now now, there should probably have been some type of screw there(Allen/HEX head?). Looks like one of the previous owners drilled out the holes, why I don't know. However, now there isn't any adjustment screws on the insert. I did find some kind of drops of hard plastic or solder on the rim where the insert sits. Wonder if I can re-tp and put in some new hex screws. Thoughts

 

[rharman]

It's so easy to make your own....

 

[Max]

I did some more checking since there are 4 holes along the the edges of the insert, 2 on each side. From what I now now, there should probably have been some type of screw there(Allen/HEX head?). Looks like one of the previous owners drilled out the holes, why I don't know. However, now there isn't any adjustment screws on the insert. I did find some kind of drops of hard plastic or solder on the rim where the insert sits. Wonder if I can re-tp and put in some new hex screws. Thoughts

Yes you can do that. The screws are there to give you a fine adjustment such that you can get the insert flat with the table saw top.

 

[oldpops]

This saw also has the flex drive system, which I am not too keen on. I wonder if there is a way to easily convert it to belt drive?? Anyone ever here ever done it? is it worth it?

 

[rayra]

Hello all! I have a Craftsman 113 series table saw and I am looking for a zero clearance insert. I removed the one that is on the saw and it measures 14" inches long X 3-3/4" wide X 1/8" inches thick. I see that Peachtree offers one they say is for this saw but theirs is 3/16" inches thick. Anyone here with a (newer) 113 series saw replace the insert? I am wondering if Peachtree's 3/16" measurement is actually the 1/8", or am I doing something wrong when I measured? Anyone here know of a place to get the inserts that measure the 14" inches long X 3-34" inches wide X 1/8" inch thick? Obviously I don't want to catch the wood on the insert lip so I thought I would come here and ask you folks. Thanks in advance to all who help!

Proper saws usually have height adjustment screws under the outer edges of the insert, so you can adjust its height to a flush fit. Take a good look at your saw.

I just did this procedure yesterday on my 10" Delta, using inserts from this guy -

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LL9DP4W/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Quality product, well milled, good instructions. He deliberately makes them a little oversized, edge sanding required to get a snug fit.

Take a look at his offerings to see if he makes something that fits your saw.

eta read the rest, sounds like you've got to tap and set some new studs to regain that adjustability.

 

[lilredex]

It's so easy to make your own....

Really easy to make, especially if you have a router and flush cutting bit. Make them out of slightly thinner material and add small squares of cereal box cardboard to bring them up flush with the table.....how I always made mine. No need to fool with adjusting screws.

 

[Zeke]

If it's too thick then use the existing insert to skim a 1/16th off the perimeter. Trust me, you will appreciate the 3/16ths when in service.

Be very care full when you raise the blade up into the new insert. It would be wise to use duct tape weigh it down during that process.

 

[Voi]

I would just turn your current insert into a ZCI.

Tap the current holes for adjustment screws and fill the existing gap with body filler. If it's a wide gap for a dado stack then maybe put down some fiber filed body filler first and skim coat with regular body filler.

This is how I did it for years and how I would do it again if I were to get another table saw. Very easy to trowel more body filler into the gap for repair or a different kerf blade, etc.

When initially raising the blade I clamp two strips of wood onto the top that hold the insert in place.

 

[oldpops]

All of you folks here have been GREAT!!! I thought it might have been a dumb question in a way but I guess I am not the only one who has had to deal with the insert plate issue. I do wonder, how do you secure the new insert in place? Right now there is a little spring tab on the bottom of the existing insert plate (as well as the beveled screw slot on the other end). Do you folks put some kind of spring tab or clip on the bottom some how? ***Oh, and for those who have dealt with a flex drive/cable drive saw motor before: Have you ever converted them over to a regular motor-pulley belt drive system? The price of replacement flex drive cables, if you can even find one, are about the cost of a new pulley and belt. Maybe it would be best to just change(to motor-pulley-belt drive) it over instead of dealing with the flex cable. Anyone know?

 

[lilredex]

My inserts stay put with a friction fit, a finger hole lets you pull it out.

 

[rayra]

If it's too thick then use the existing insert to skim a 1/16th off the perimeter. Trust me, you will appreciate the 3/16ths when in service.

Be very care full when you raise the blade up into the new insert. It would be wise to use duct tape weigh it down during that process.

the instruction sheet that came with mine stated to clamp it down. I put a remnant 2x4, offset from where the blade would rise, and clamped it to my table. Worked great.

 

[MoonRise]

To hold down a new zero clearance insert and cut the blade slot, I usually just slide my fence over the new insert and raise the blade through the insert. Being careful NOT to cut into the fence.

 

[Zeke]

Yeah, I meant to type use tape AND another something. Fence, 2 x 4 both sound good to me.

 

[pb014]

This one looks like the best deal if you do not have a router table.

Newer Craftsman/Rigid Table Saw Zero Clearance Insert (After 1988) by Peachtree Woodworking PW953 Approx Dims: 14 in x 3-3/4 in x 3/16 in - Table Saw Accessories - Amazon.com

Newer Craftsman/Rigid Table Saw Zero Clearance Insert (After 1988) by Peachtree Woodworking PW953 Approx Dims: 14 in x 3-3/4 in x 3/16 in - Table Saw Accessories - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

I bought my first insert from Rockler but since I now have a router table I have made several more.
I fashioned a pin that hooks into the table at the rear. One I used the screw at the front -- the rest are just friction fit.
Some have used hot glue to adjust the plate height instead of the set screws.

Good luck converting to belt drive. I got my saw on CL for $45 then found another for free. I kept the best parts and sold the rest for $45.

 

[pb014]

Oh, and there is a thread entitled,

"Vintage Craftsman Table Saw Thread"​

under Vintage Tools.

 

[oldpops]

Thanks again everyone. Aside from the flex cable drive, there is no splitter or blade guard. Like I said, i would spend a few bucks to keep it going, but too many.