Zero Turn maintenance.

[N_Jay]

Just picked up a very clean used Craftsman Z5800 Zero-Turn Riding Mower.
Basic maintenance seems easy, but wondering if there is any additional maintenance or maintenance modifications that are worthwhile.

There is no mention of checking or changing the hydraulic fluid, nor a filter.

Do people ad filters?
Assuming there is a return line to access, it is a good idea?

Also, I need to check for grease fittings,
Is it worth adding any?

 

[ericg]

According to the specs for a Z5800, you have the EZT2200 transaxle. Here is the service manual

https://www.hydro-gear.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/09/BLN-52622_ZT2100_ZT2200-1-1.pdf

it should have a Kohler 7000 series engine. Here is the service manual

https://resources.kohler.com/power/kohler/enginesUS/pdf/32_690_03_EN.pdf

 

[Bert_]

If you have more than maybe 500hrs on it, I'd change the oil in the hydro. The little hydro's in these mowers run hot.

Mine has a filter but I wouldn't try to add one, just change the oil

 

[N_Jay]

Thanks for the manual links.

Assuming tbe hydraulic system has no clutches to wear, and is fairly well sealed, the only issue should be heat.
If not a filter, could a larger reservoir be fitted to drop the average fluid temp?
If not, I guess I will keep a fluid change schedule.

 

[ericg]

Thanks for the manual links.

Assuming tbe hydraulic system has no clutches to wear, and is fairly well sealed, the only issue should be heat.
If not a filter, could a larger reservoir be fitted to drop the average fluid temp?
If not, I guess I will keep a fluid change schedule.

Keep the fluid changed on a periodic basis and you will be fine. Same with the engine oil, oil filter and air filter.

 

[SouthernIllinois]

I have a Scag Patriot that came with the property when I bought Dad's estate.

He took it to the dealer every spring for maintenance - All they have done to date is change engine oil, oil filter, fuel filter, air filter and sharpen the blades.

Last year as we were moving in, I didn't have the time or the shop to do it myself so I also took it back to the dealer - they did the same as every other year with the exception of put new blades on it instead of just sharpening them.

 

[N_Jay]

Keep the fluid changed on a periodic basis and you will be fine. Same with the engine oil, oil filter and air filter.

Engine oil and filter is easy.
Air filter seems to be the smallest of the three options.
Factory 300 hour fill is Kohler 10w50 synthetic.

They recommend 100 hr for 10w30.
My guess is a season will be under 100 hours, and I am planning to use synthetic 10w40, as I buy it bulk for a few cars (actually 0w40).

Hydraulic fluid fill is 20w50 motor oil, but it does not specify synthetic or conventional.
They also don't recommend draining unless contaminated, and don't provide a drain port/plug.

I am not sure how best to check, other than dip a little from the fill port and see how it looks and smells. Hopefully it looks good and I can just top up.

 

[AEAdam]

I completely rebuilt my exmark. I’ve done basically no maintenance since then other than an oil change or 2.

As @SouthernIllinois said, keeping after the basics is smart. I’d add spark plugs to the maintenance cycle, but not every year.

Stuff that hasnt been discussed and may not be obvious is cleaning, especially under the deck, touch up paint for corrosion prevention, deck maintenance, specifically inspection of the drive belt, pulleys, and the electric clutch (assuming you have one).

Not sure about your mower, mine has a 30hp Kohler engine. Be sure to check wheel lug nut torques to prevent the rims from becoming wallered out.

I put the cheapest muffler I could buy on mine. I’d consider inspecting that. Ideally the best muffler is the quietest.

 

[ericg]

Engine oil and filter is easy.
Air filter seems to be the smallest of the three options.
Factory 300 hour fill is Kohler 10w50 synthetic.

They recommend 100 hr for 10w30.
My guess is a season will be under 100 hours, and I am planning to use synthetic 10w40, as I buy it bulk for a few cars (actually 0w40).

Hydraulic fluid fill is 20w50 motor oil, but it does not specify synthetic or conventional.
They also don't recommend draining unless contaminated, and don't provide a drain port/plug.

I am not sure how best to check, other than dip a little from the fill port and see how it looks and smells. Hopefully it looks good and I can just top up.

Those Hydro-Gear transaxkes are pretty stout. I would not worry whether you add regular or synthetic oil as long as it is the same weight. There are magnets and filter screens within the unit so unless you have driveability issues, I would not change the fluid. The one thing that shortens their life is heat so make sure the fan is intact and blow off any debris that collects on the unit. The same thing applies to the Kohler. Every so often, based on how much use the mower sees, , take off the shroud and clean out all the grass that accumulates around the heads which will lead to overheating.

 

[Notgrownup]

We have a PRO Z 700 at work and we get it fully serviced at the dealer once a year during the off season. Hydraulic fluid needs to be changed .its good practice.

 

[Firebrick43]

Engine oil and filter is easy.
Air filter seems to be the smallest of the three options.
Factory 300 hour fill is Kohler 10w50 synthetic.

They recommend 100 hr for 10w30.
My guess is a season will be under 100 hours, and I am planning to use synthetic 10w40, as I buy it bulk for a few cars (actually 0w40).

Hydraulic fluid fill is 20w50 motor oil, but it does not specify synthetic or conventional.
They also don't recommend draining unless contaminated, and don't provide a drain port/plug.

I am not sure how best to check, other than dip a little from the fill port and see how it looks and smells. Hopefully it looks good and I can just top up.

Dont ever go that long on a air cooled engine for oil changes. 100 hours for synthetic would be the max I would ever go with a motor without a dual element canister air filter.

If you change the hydro oil its imperative you follow the purging procedure exactly. Failure to jack it up and run the drives both ways for the recommended time is the sure fire way to destroy the pump and motor in the drive.

 

[SouthernIllinois]

I completely rebuilt my exmark. I’ve done basically no maintenance since then other than an oil change or 2.

As @SouthernIllinois said, keeping after the basics is smart. I’d add spark plugs to the maintenance cycle, but not every year.

Stuff that hasnt been discussed and may not be obvious is cleaning, especially under the deck, touch up paint for corrosion prevention, deck maintenance, specifically inspection of the drive belt, pulleys, and the electric clutch (assuming you have one).

Not sure about your mower, mine has a 30hp Kohler engine. Be sure to check wheel lug nut torques to prevent the rims from becoming wallered out.

I put the cheapest muffler I could buy on mine. I’d consider inspecting that. Ideally the best muffler is the quietest.

Now that you mention it, I do believe they changed the plugs last year.

I try to pressure wash the deck including the underside at least every other mowing but with this heat, I have fallen behind. It's supposed to really cool off here later this week. I'll try to get after it then.

 

[Firebrick43]

Those Hydro-Gear transaxkes are pretty stout. I would not worry whether you add regular or synthetic oil as long as it is the same weight. There are magnets and filter screens within the unit so unless you have driveability issues, I would not change the fluid. The one thing that shortens their life is heat so make sure the fan is intact and blow off any debris that collects on the unit. The same thing applies to the Kohler. Every so often, based on how much use the mower sees, , take off the shroud and clean out all the grass that accumulates around the heads which will lead to overheating.

Below the ZT3100 are not that stout.

But the advice on removing the shroud at least once a year is spot on, more depending on hours ran. A leaking top seal can cause the fins to plug pretty quick and leads to overheating the heads and valve seats falling out of their pockets.

 

[N_Jay]

Thanks all.

Sounds like with my needs it will be a once a season full cleaning and standard maintenance.

One last stupid question.
Anyone have a concern for running 15w50 (vs. 0w40)
In North Carolina where it will never be run below about 40 degrees.

 

[markdtn]

Can't speak for modern Kohler but Kawasaki would use thicker oil. On mine the recommended oil is 20W50 for 0 deg F to over 104F. (10W40 for -14F to a bit over 104F). If you use thinner oil you may have oil consumption issues. I would definitely chase down a manufacturers oil recommendation chart.

 

[alfadan]

On those hydros, the best way is to take the drive off the machine, remove the fill plug and flip it over. Measure how much comes out and replace with like amount. I use 20w-50 synthetic motorcycle oil.

 

[alfadan]

Dont ever go that long on a air cooled engine for oil changes. 100 hours for synthetic would be the max I would ever go with a motor without a dual element canister air filter.

This. These air cooled engines run hot, during the hottest time of the year in dusty environments with only a 2 quart sump, on average. Oil and filters are cheap.

 

[N_Jay]

Normally I would agree with yielding the Oil chart, so here it is.
Kohler Pro is Synthetic, others ate not defined.
My choices right now are:
5W40 Syn (Most common w40 syn)
0w40 Syn (What I have a good bit of as it goes in several cars I own)
20w50 Syn (Concerned a 20w might be a bit heavy at lower temps)
15w50 Syn (Lowest 'w' reasonable priced. Looking at the chart should easily be good at temps down to 30 deg)




As for the hydraulics, they say 20w50 SL motor oil.
Guessing the higher ratings are not really needed since there are no typical "motor" byproducts to deal with.
I am not sure why they use a motor oil, other than it is harder to find a multi-viscosity hydraulic oil.
20W50 synthetic is easy to find. As I said, I doubt I will replace it unless a see that it has ben cooked when I check the levels.
Wonder how much I can get out of the fill port with a vacuum pump without dismounting the units?

This. These air cooled engines run hot, during the hottest time of the year in dusty environments with only a 2 quart sump, on average. Oil and filters are cheap.

Guessing my season will be well under 100 hours.
I am not a neat lawn freak.

Synthetic helps a lot. I noticed both less fuel used and not near as much "hot engine" smell when changed my push mower to Synthetic oil.

 

[Steve_P]

I would change the hydraulic fluid. It is typically expensive to rebuild a hydrostatic transmission, even if it's just to clean everything and replace the seals.

 

[N_Jay]

I would change the hydraulic fluid. It is typically expensive to rebuild a hydrostatic transmission, even if it's just to clean everything and replace the seals.

Current plan is to sample it as see how it looks and smells at first service (over winter).
If it is not looking/smelling good (I expect "like new" for hydraulic fluid, since no clutches and no combustion products) it will get changed.
Might see how much I can vacuum out first. If 75+% will probably do a refill.

I use 75% because that is about as best you can in most Auto transmissions and they live with those changes.

 

[Mandres]

The problem with the ezt series is usually getting access. They're not designed to be serviceable, so there's no accessible drain plug or remote reservoir to refill them. It's all but impossible to change the oil without removing them from the machine. A vacuum sucker might work if there's room to snake it in there.

A good tip for longevity on these is to always mow up and back with a 3pt turn at the end of each row. Running it in a rectangle pattern like a tractor puts a lot of stress on the left unit by constantly switching from forward to reverse.

 

[AEAdam]

I would change the hydraulic fluid. It is typically expensive to rebuild a hydrostatic transmission, even if it's just to clean everything and replace the seals.

I'm not sure what that will do. These things are pretty complicated and metal chips will collect in the bottom and you won't be able to vacuum them out.

My advice- I would not mess with the hydros unless you plan a complete tear down. I would top off the fluid if it needs and leave them the heck alone.

This is a diagram of the Exmark Laser Z hydro. New, these are $1600 each. I think this photo is just the components in the seal and gasket service kit. I don't recall this kit being that expensive.


Once inside, I saw some pretty bad wear, which required me to buy more parts. Again, these little pistons weren't super expensive. Some of them I managed to save and reuse.


Anyone who has done transmission pans and gaskets can rebuild one of these. You just need to work carefully and work CLEAN. My mower is (pretty sure) 100% US made and all SAE. I needed nothing out of the ordinary that I recall, but good snap ring pliers, gasket scrapers, I used deburring hones and things from my machine shop, pullers etc. But I don't have the massive collection of specialty sockets and things in SAE. Just the basics. Elsewhere on the mower I used ratchet wrenches, which I usually don't love using for automotive.

Couple reminders for how this project turned out.






Recall I bought this 2009 model for $1500 in 2017 and was in over my head. I had never worked on one or operated one. I just treated it like a car restoration project. Plowed $3500 into it (mostly new engine - $1800), powder coating, new seat, wheels and tires etc - all the little bits add up- I added the seat suspension kit, which is really nice. That sheet metal around the back of the engine was coated in LINE-X. I painted all the plastic fairings and things and they came out nice and have held up.

I guess my advice is, either do what I did, or leave it alone as best as you can. The thing I bought was a non-running basket case, so I kinda had no choice.