Supporting Wall

[rpgfire88]

Hello I am new to the forum and wanted to see if I could get some suggestions/idea about how to proceed in removing this supporting wall in a garage. The garage is 20'FT wide and 50' long, but halfway there is a supporting wall separating the two sections in half. The support wall is 20' long and wanted to see if I would need to just have a wooden header installed or a metal beam that spans the 20FT? I would be ok if a support had to be installed on the ends or an extra one in the middle, but ideally I would like the garage to be as open as possible. I have set aside about $1,500 for this project, I do not know if this is a reasonable amount? Also can I do it with some friends or should I hire a pro? Let me know if any extra information will be helpful. Thanks

 

[PoorUB]

and wanted to see if I could get some suggestions/idea about how to proceed in removing this supporting wall in a garage.

You might be able to rip it out and do nothing.

What it the structure above it?
Roof trusses?
House above?

 

[nadogail]

If you are considering removing a Load Bearing Wall you will have to take into account what will replace it.

What is the opinion of your Architect and Engineer?

 

[kbs2244]

why do you call it a "supporting wall"
as said , what is above it

if it a true load bearing wall, you will need a beam of some kind and support in place wile the replacement is in progress

 

[jack stand]

Need front, back and side pictures of the outside before anyone can make a suggestion.

 

[Garcky]

Hello I am new to the forum and wanted to see if I could get some suggestions/idea about how to proceed in removing this supporting wall in a garage. The garage is 20'FT wide and 50' long, but halfway there is a supporting wall separating the two sections in half. The support wall is 20' long and wanted to see if I would need to just have a wooden header installed or a metal beam that spans the 20FT? I would be ok if a support had to be installed on the ends or an extra one in the middle, but ideally I would like the garage to be as open as possible. I have set aside about $1,500 for this project, I do not know if this is a reasonable amount? Also can I do it with some friends or should I hire a pro? Let me know if any extra information will be helpful. Thanks

We'd have to know what the structure of what's above it looks like. What is it supporting?

 

[billconner]

If this is a gable roof and ridge is perpendicular to the wall you want to remove, good chance it's not load bearing and can just be removed.

 

[firebirdparts]

Tell us what it's holding up. Show us the attic, roof, upstairs.

 

[trashyman]

Betting its load bearing since its 2x6. Picturing a gable above the garage door with trusses sitting on thet wall

 

[The Cobbler]

I don't see 2x6, I see 2x4
also, need more information.
and, another poster that has not logged back in since posting ( about 14 hrs since posting)

 

[strutaeng]

Ha, we all fall for it! LOL

 

[Metal-Marc]

Ha, we all fall for it! LOL

Yup. Another one post wonder with a problem and hardly any details on the real situation.

Going to grab some popcorn.

 

[JRC3]

Yup. Another one post wonder with a problem and hardly any details on the real situation.

Going to grab some popcorn.

It's been less than one day, in all fairness.

Yep, pics, roof type and orientation will matter.

 

[Metal-Marc]

It's been less than one day, in all fairness.

Yep, pics, roof type and orientation will matter.

LoL.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/so-are-there-or-is-there-a-bunch-of-new-members-coming-here-and-posting-1-or-2-posts.514031/

 

[rpgfire88]

You might be able to rip it out and do nothing.

What it the structure above it?
Roof trusses?
House above?

There is a roof truss above the wall, no second story

 

[rpgfire88]

If you are considering removing a Load Bearing Wall you will have to take into account what will replace it.

What is the opinion of your Architect and Engineer?

Yeah, that is the step I will be looking at next with having an engineer look at it.

 

[jack stand]

Need front, back and side pictures of the outside before anyone can make a suggestion.

 

[rpgfire88]

Need front, back and side pictures of the outside before anyone can make a suggestion.

Here are some outside photos of the garage. There is a side view of the garage where the garage has been expanded long before I move in, and there is an overlap on the roof shingles just to the right of the single overhead door.

 

[rpgfire88]

Here are some outside photos of the garage. There is a side view of the garage where the garage has been expanded long before I move in, and there is an overlap on the roof shingles just to the right of the single overhead door.

hope this helps, let me know if you need any more info, thanks everyone

 

[billconner]

Is this wall the end wall of the original building before it was added on to?

I think the easiest fix would be adding rafters and a rafter tie on either side, and no intrusion into space. You could replace with a beam and additional studs in the side walls. I'd chose the rafters as probably less expensive and all pieces I could handle alone.

 

[jack stand]

It looks like they simply built the gable, which is fine before the addition. If you have building inspections I wonder if an inspector would stop by and approve sheathing the soon to be "truss" as a alternative to supporting it from below?

 

[Toolfool]

An inspector is not an engineer. And I wouldn't let an inspector in any building unless he's checking on permitted work.

 

[rpgfire88]

Is this wall the end wall of the original building before it was added on to?

I think the easiest fix would be adding rafters and a rafter tie on either side, and no intrusion into space. You could replace with a beam and additional studs in the side walls. I'd chose the rafters as probably less expensive and all pieces I could handle alone.

That is correct this is the wall end of the original building. That would be great if I could add a rafter tie on both sides. I would be fine with a beam as well, What size beam would I be roughly looking for?

 

[rpgfire88]

It looks like they simply built the gable, which is fine before the addition. If you have building inspections I wonder if an inspector would stop by and approve sheathing the soon to be "truss" as a alternative to supporting it from below?

It looks like they simply built the gable, which is fine before the addition. If you have building inspections I wonder if an inspector would stop by and approve sheathing the soon to be "truss" as a alternative to supporting it from below?

I probably would lean towards an engineer coming in to check it out, I just dont want an inspection to go south where a spotlight could be put on me. I want to make sure the work I will be doing going forward is solid. This is a great help

 

[CraigStu]

Here is another thought. I know it would be strong enough because the first floor of my 2 story is held up by a 2x6 bearing wall down the middle of the basement. How about some 6ft wide openings in that wall vs removing it completely? Could they allow you to do what you want?

 

[BigGarage]

LoL.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/so-are-there-or-is-there-a-bunch-of-new-members-coming-here-and-posting-1-or-2-posts.514031/

If you read post # 31 in the thread you linked and read my reply you'll see that I wrote, in part, "In the last couple of weeks there was a thread-starter post and it was almost complete gibberish and incomprehensible. It was also the posters 1st post here. Naturally nobody uses these two things to realize it's a prank or spam or whatever the hell else it could be."

I read the 1st post in this thread and had no problem understanding it although follow-up questions were needed.

The guys on this forum don't know when they are being pranked and don't know when they are not being pranked.

I didn't reply to the OP because I couldn't help but the OP was not "gibberish and incomprehensible".

Carry on fellas

Dennis

 

[rpgfire88]

Here is another thought. I know it would be strong enough because the first floor of my 2 story is held up by a 2x6 bearing wall down the middle of the basement. How about some 6ft wide openings in that wall vs removing it completely? Could they allow you to do what you want?

Thanks, good question, I will write that down and ask.

 

[PoorUB]

I probably would lean towards an engineer coming in to check it out, I just dont want an inspection to go south where a spotlight could be put on me. I want to make sure the work I will be doing going forward is solid. This is a great help

That wall is caring barely any load, a bit of the roof is all.

If it were me I would add in a lower cord, nailed above the top plate of the wall, making certain to use one long piece of 2x4, or splice in the middle of 1/2" plywood, Fastened well in to the roof cord or rafter where it meets the top of the wall. Essentially adding a collar tie to keep the walls pulled in. Nail it into all the vertical 2x4. It will be the strongest rafter in the building! Then rip out the wall.

 

[PoorUB]

LoL.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/so-are-there-or-is-there-a-bunch-of-new-members-coming-here-and-posting-1-or-2-posts.514031/

If you read post # 31 in the thread you linked and read my reply you'll see that I wrote, in part, "In the last couple of weeks there was a thread-starter post and it was almost complete gibberish and incomprehensible. It was also the posters 1st post here. Naturally nobody uses these two things to realize it's a prank or spam or whatever the hell else it could be."

I read the 1st post in this thread and had no problem understanding it although follow-up questions were needed.

The guys on this forum don't know when they are being pranked and don't know when they are not being pranked.

I didn't reply to the OP because I couldn't help but the OP was not "gibberish and incomprehensible".

Carry on fellas

Dennis

Also, in this post the OP has replied and replied with pictures.
Most of the garbage, spam threads get started and the person that started the thread is never heard from again.

 

[Walkers]

Betting its load bearing since its 2x6. Picturing a gable above the garage door with trusses sitting on thet wall

I bet its not because the crack in the concrete doesnt indicate a footing there.

 

[rpgfire88]

I was told that the wall that I was talking about removing was originally an exterior wall and had some wood siding on it(which I have removed before the OP), but then someone over 20 years ago had a slab poured and extended the garage another 20 Ft further back. So I wonder if that is why there is a space between the front part of the garage and the back part?

 

[billconner]

That is correct this is the wall end of the original building. That would be great if I could add a rafter tie on both sides. I would be fine with a beam as well, What size beam would I be roughly looking for?

I'd like to know how far the roof rafters are from this wall. I'd prefer rafters. (Maybe there is one - can't quite tell from photos.) But a beam would be sized like a header and to do that, I'd need to know your design snow load and how far apart rafters are. Let's say there's a rafter 16" each side, so beam has to support 16" x 20' of roof and ceiling load - roughly 27 sf. Add snow load plus 10 pounds for roof and ceiling and framing, and take that to lumber yard and ask for them to size an lvl.

There are other solutions. The suggestion above to plate it with ply is interesting. I'm sure it can work but I don't know how to calulate (and seems harder to do.)

I might try removing every other stud and then cutting one with hand saw and see if it compresses on blade.

I go back to adding rafters - and probably just a pair, same size as existing (2x6? 2x8?), against studs.

 

[Copymutt]

I’m more concerned about the sag in the original roof!

 

[Zeke]

That's not a truss above the wall. It's simply gable framing and is definitely supported by the wall. You can remove the wall with restrictions. That having been said, the number of large and small doors on that building tell me that overall shear is lacking. Your support wall should have been blocked and sheeted, IMHO.

So, if you take it out then there is no possibility of adding shear. Well, there is but it will take more than sizing a beam for the span.

No location so we don't have any idea of what zone or conditions you face. How are us keyboard engineers supposed to even come close?
$1500 might buy the materials. Another $1500 might get you engineered plans. Might.

For now, I'd cut an opening and shear the wall all the way up to the roof. The bigger the opening the more attention required AFA framing goes. If you take that wall out and merely install a bean on posts at either end, a good storm or earthquake could possibly bring that building down. It's weak as it is being sided with the numerous openings.

RE: below: cosmetics.

I’m more concerned about the sag in the original roof!

 

[rpgfire88]

I was told that the wall that I was talking about removing was originally an exterior wall and had some wood siding on it(which I have removed before the OP), but then someone over 20 years ago had a slab poured and extended the garage another 20 Ft further back. So I wonder if that is why there

That's not a truss above the wall. It's simply gable framing and is definitely supported by the wall. You can remove the wall with restrictions. That having been said, the number of large and small doors on that building tell me that overall shear is lacking. Your support wall should have been blocked and sheeted, IMHO.

So, if you take it out then there is no possibility of adding shear. Well, there is but it will take more than sizing a beam for the span.

No location so we don't have any idea of what zone or conditions you face. How are us keyboard engineers supposed to even come close?
$1500 might buy the materials. Another $1500 might get you engineered plans. Might.

For now, I'd cut an opening and shear the wall all the way up to the roof. The bigger the opening the more attention required AFA framing goes. If you take that wall out and merely install a bean on posts at either end, a good storm or earthquake could possibly bring that building down. It's weak as it is being sided with the numerous openings.

RE: below: cosmetics.

Thanks for your concerns, I will keep that in mind. I am in Wisconsin. I am flexible on how much the changes would cost, I was looking to get some ballpark idea on a very rough estimate

 

[rpgfire88]

I’m more concerned about the sag in the original roof!

yes I am going to get that addressed as well, it should be pretty solid when all is done, thanks

 

[rpgfire88]

Thanks everyone for your help, I have enough info to move forward with, this will be my last post on this topic.

 

[JRC3]

Now it's time to decide to move all the rafter ties up 1/3 while you're at it. LOL

 

[BigGarage]

Also, in this post the OP has replied and replied with pictures.
Most of the garbage, spam threads get started and the person that started the thread is never heard from again.

Except for the 1st post pic he didn't post other pics until almost 24 hours later after people here requested more info. This is not the proof of a prank thread in the 1st post. As I wrote, I understood his question but wasn't qualified to help him. If I suspect a prank thread I'll call it out and I have not been wrong yet.

Dennis