Sure is, let alone doin it twice.Hey! That’s a pretty zerky thing to do!

I remember how much of a PITA those were to do when I was working at a Ford dealership at the time.I pulled the leaky heater core out of my 1985 Mustang. I have a new core but need to pick up some sealer and stuff. So hopefully it will be back together next weekend.
Wait, is this the scooter you’ve been modifying and buying batteries for?Screwed up my courage and took a "Test Ride" on the Electric Scooter my neighbor gave me. I decided that I am not comfortable on it and will be looking to find a new owner for it.
I will have a Birthday in a few weeks and don't feel like celebrating it in a cast; if I am lucky.
I just might buy myself a Four Wheel Mobility Scooter for my 84th.
Slime can be your friend here. A double or triple dose. My tires look like they mated with a porcupine and, because of the Slime, they still hold air and do the days work.Pulled the front wheel on my garden tractor to patch the leaky tire and found about a dozen pinholes. Either a new tire or tube.
Also broke the eclip that holds the wheel on the shaft, trip to the parts place for that..
I'll give it a shot. Thanks!Slime can be your friend here. A double or triple dose. My tires look like they mated with a porcupine and, because of the Slime, they still hold air and do the days work.


I'd never use it on a car or motorcycle tire, just the lawn tractor and tiller, which are cheesy bologna skins from the gitgo. Cart and wheelbarrow tires are solid around here.I’ve never dealt with slime, but fix a flat is a nightmare to a tire guy..lol It also has a corrosive property to it that can ruin a rim. Again, I’m speaking of fix a flat, I don’t know about slime.
PhantomEB I have thinking about other ways to mount the plate, when I think of something I will post pictures.I would put the plate on a hinge, less likely to get bent up that way.
Nice

PassnThru:Have you tried a pressure washer? Pre-treat and spray. Much easier for that sort of thing.
Cool. Actually that 1700 PSI might be all you want - you can make a mess with wood real quick with more pressure and then you have a lot more sanding to do.PassnThru:
I took your advice and pressure washed some of the remaining slats and while it did remove the dirt grime and some finish I did have to continue to wet sand the slats individually to get them as clean as the others. I have a 1,700 PSI Husky electric PW so a more powerful unit might have done a better job.
Pressure washing of the BACK of the slats and legs was sufficient in cleaning to save me LOTS of time, so thank you for the suggestion.
Cheers
Jim
Cleaned labels off and marked 2 old sanitizer containers for SG and E Rust, (as I'm tired of not knowing what is in the soaking containers I use months later...) these are good sizes, and will also fit the USC, so these will keep the USC clean as well.








After you drill it and tap it, how do you get any metal shavings back out of inside? I would imagine they would get trapped in there by the existing grease. Or do you just push so much new grease in that you know you've flushed out the shavings along with the old grease, something like that? I haven't had a zerk fitting to grease since the early 80's, and the ones I did have were not on things with rubber boots.Sure is, let alone doin it twice.
Not sure how or why I never made the top BJs greasable, loweres were done but I guess I tapped those last time I replaced them.
Anyway, gave some attention to my own junk today. Oil changes in the 81 turbo diesel Rabbit and 68 bus. Bus also got new fuel filter, brake adjustment, front end greased and some other stuff I already forgot.
Now that's a brilliant hack! Love it.I would put the plate on a hinge, less likely to get bent up that way.
I just drill them, then pick any obvious large shavings out with a dental pick. It's not like you're building a rocket. You're just trying to give the poor pounded little joints a bit of lube and water exclusion.After you drill it and tap it, how do you get any metal shavings back out of inside? I would imagine they would get trapped in there by the existing grease. Or do you just push so much new grease in that you know you've flushed out the shavings along with the old grease, something like that? I haven't had a zerk fitting to grease since the early 80's, and the ones I did have were not on things with rubber boots.
Only shavings to worry about are the very las bit as you break through. Brake kleen and a straw gets out anything of concern. I use M6 zerks and have an M6 bottom tap I use to get threads deeper. It's actually a tap I ground myself to remove the taper.After you drill it and tap it, how do you get any metal shavings back out of inside? I would imagine they would get trapped in there by the existing grease. Or do you just push so much new grease in that you know you've flushed out the shavings along with the old grease, something like that? I haven't had a zerk fitting to grease since the early 80's, and the ones I did have were not on things with rubber boots.
