Mainiac Mat
Well-known member
Pretty sure it's called a Luna moth.
Good NewsThe first phase of my parts-order arrived; the motor capacitor for my drill press. I installed it this afternoon, and she lives again.
The socket is called a triple square and there is a special tool in the jack kit to remove the plastic caps, it is U shaped.Had to find a youtube video. If I had to replace rotor I would have needed to make a trip to the parts store for a 14mm 12pt torx type socket to remove the caliper holder. There is also a tool for pushing the piston back into the caliper but I made do with knipex pliers and a short pry bar. Never mind the silly plastic caps over the lug bolts, yes bolts, not nuts. She had all the stock jack equipment including the key for locking lug nut. I've had to replace the pcv assembly too. https://www.myvwpart.com/p/Volkswagen__Jetta/Engine-Crankcase-Vent-Valve/67801091/06K103495AP.html?partner=BingShopping&kwd=&matchtype=e&device=c&network=o&userLocation=&msqs=2016 vw jetta pcv valve&bingCampaignID=367648708&bingAdGroupID=1218259323644410&bingAdID=76141316174487&bingExtensionID=


Those wheels had to take a good amount of time to polish, I hope the customer gives you a big tip.Got the K-Whopper and hopper trailer inside and started on the wheels. The job is only a wash and interior detail. But I can’t let ‘er go back to the customer with tarnished Alcoas. So, started polishing. Washed 9 yards of gravel road dust out from under ‘er. Sharp rig, will finish the cleanup this weekend.
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Yep me too! The Mothers Power Ball 2 and polishing compound does a great job. But they also take elbow grease. Maybe an hour for each wheel? Going to do the trailer Alcoas tonight. But of course, we’re going to get rain. So we’ll leave the rig inside and work on it. Then I’ll get to BILL IT lol!Those wheels had to take a good amount of time to polish, I hope the customer gives you a big tip.
Those wheels had to take a good amount of time to polish, I hope the customer gives you a big tip.

Does Alcoas mean those big truck rims are aluminum alloy? I guess it is a pretty fancy looking truck.Going to do the trailer Alcoas tonight.
What does it mean to do bodywork on an oil pan? Does that just mean a car was originally looking as dirty and beat up as an oil pan? Or does it mean to refinish the outside of an oil pan, like powder-coat it?bodywork on a 55 year old oil pan
I always thought It was just a brand name, but they are aluminum.Alcoas
Do you think they heat treat the linkage to a lower hardness number to sacrifice itself instead of wearing the selector? Which would be very cool enginering. Or is it just the luck of the draw?
Not sure. The selector shaft is chrome plated i think and probably hardened in some way and is the original factory part. The relay lever is just an aftermarket piece so probably not to the same quality. I'd still expect more than 2 years use out of it though.Do you think they heat treat the linkage to a lower hardness number to sacrifice itself instead of wearing the selector? Which would be very cool enginering. Or is it just the luck of the draw?
Maybe some HP grease will help reduce the wear the next relay lever.Not sure. The selector shaft is chrome plated i think and probably hardened in some way and is the original factory part. The relay lever is just an aftermarket piece so probably not to the same quality. I'd still expect more than 2 years use out of it though.
What does it mean to do bodywork on an oil pan? Does that just mean a car was originally looking as dirty and beat up as an oil pan? Or does it mean to refinish the outside of an oil pan, like powder-coat it?
What does it mean to do bodywork on an oil pan? Does that just mean a car was originally looking as dirty and beat up as an oil pan? Or does it mean to refinish the outside of an oil pan, like powder-coat it?



Is the starter specific to Hondas?
Thank you. Its a lot of fun learning about the folks on here.I'm a professional metal finisher and get projects from all over the world.
With very few exceptions, every part to cross my bench gets worked up to be as close to perfect as I can before any powder starts flying. This one just had a few dents, and some minor pitting my customer isn't worried about since it's going on a daily driver.
You might enjoy this thread.




I vote for something lighter. That green is cool and old-timey, but will **** the light out of the room.Need a color opinion as I am nearing the decision point. I have always finished my garages in bright ceiling white. I love the look. In doing this restoration and building my dream shop. I discovered the original color of an interior room during the demo phase. We have gone back and forth on using it.
Still deciding if the beadboard should be the same semi-gloss "creamy" as the woodwork or if I should paint it a classic green that I found during demolition of this space. The flooring is a very worn and stained red concrete for the most part and I am concerned the green might be a bit too much for the space.
Opinions welcomed...
Possible color choice??? Using Sherwin Williams "color tool" to add the green.
Thoughts?
The dark spot is my large black tool chest that will be parked there.
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I vote for something lighter. That green is cool and old-timey, but will **** the light out of the room.

Still deciding if the beadboard should be the same semi-gloss "creamy" as the woodwork or if I should paint it a classic green that I found during demolition of this space.
Do what makes you happy. If you actually use your garage then in a few years the wall color will barely be visible due to all the cabinets and other storage. All the 'stuff' is going to determine the light levels - not the color of the walls.
