First time paint sprayer user: what do I need to know?

[Sanderguy777]

Ordered a Homeright Finishmax Super that's getting here tomorrow. Never used a sprayer before, so what do I need to know? I plan to watch some videos, but do I need to thin the paint or what? (I'm using Behr exterior, possibly Marquis or the equivalent before the Marquis came out). 4 or 6 year old paint, but it works well to brush out still.)

How do I tell if it's pure enough, or what not? Again, never used one, and I'm worried I'll either end up never touching one again and hating them, or needing a $1500 one LOL

 

[BTL-A4]

I painted my car with a HF air spray gun. I practiced first. I suggest you do the same. I also used it to paint an arbor with Behr water-based paint. I don't think I thinned it much.
Practice on scrap first. You'll get a better feel for how the gun sprays and lays down paint.

 

[dnschmidt]

With any sprayer and particularly a cheap sprayer which this is viscosity is very important. Buy this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HCT4FJD/?tag=atomicindus08-20 and it will enable you to figure out what tip to use and how much to thin (or not thin) the paint you're using. The way this is used is that you dip the cup into your paint can until it's full to the top and then you lift it out and time in seconds how long it takes to completely empty. This gives you a measure of viscosity and with that answer tells you which needle to use and how much to thin. That information should come with the sprayer.

 

[nadogail]

The viscosity of the paint is extremely important, Google Saybolt test.

 

[may0naise]

Be aware that there are many types of sprayers. If this is what you bought it says it is an HVLP sprayer. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071X9FZ7R/?tag=atomicindus08-20 hvlp work best with thiner materials if I recall. Behr marque or premium plus ultra is a very thick "paint and primer" style paint, so you will probably have to thin it so much that you defeat the purpose of the "paint and primer" single coat type paints. With cheap sprayers like the one I linked or like wagner type sprayers the key is always to fully flush and clean it IMMEDIATELY after you are done. DO NOT leave it sitting with paint in it ever. You wanna wait for the first coat to dry? empty and flush out the tool while you wait, etc. Also you will want to run the paint through a filter screen before spraying it, old paints will pretty much always have some clumping issues.

 

[Sanderguy777]

I painted my car with a HF air spray gun. I practiced first. I suggest you do the same. I also used it to paint an arbor with Behr water-based paint. I don't think I thinned it much.
Practice on scrap first. You'll get a better feel for how the gun sprays and lays down paint.

Yeah, definitely gonna work on a scrap first. I think I'll get a compressor gun some day, but for now it'll be this $77 special LOL (I only have a 6g compressor, so painting isn't really its cup of tea!)

With any sprayer and particularly a cheap sprayer which this is viscosity is very important. Buy this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HCT4FJD/?tag=atomicindus08-20 and it will enable you to figure out what tip to use and how much to thin (or not thin) the paint you're using. The way this is used is that you dip the cup into your paint can until it's full to the top and then you lift it out and time in seconds how long it takes to completely empty. This gives you a measure of viscosity and with that answer tells you which needle to use and how much to thin. That information should come with the sprayer.

Ok, I thought I'd need that sooner or later. Any recommendations for videos to watch that tell how much to thin per second, and what to use?

 

[Sanderguy777]

Be aware that there are many types of sprayers. If this is what you bought it says it is an HVLP sprayer. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071X9FZ7R/?tag=atomicindus08-20 hvlp work best with thiner materials if I recall. Behr marque or premium plus ultra is a very thick "paint and primer" style paint, so you will probably have to thin it so much that you defeat the purpose of the "paint and primer" single coat type paints. With cheap sprayers like the one I linked or like wagner type sprayers the key is always to fully flush and clean it IMMEDIATELY after you are done. DO NOT leave it sitting with paint in it ever. You wanna wait for the first coat to dry? empty and flush out the tool while you wait, etc.

Good to know about thinning and cleaning. I'm using a primer, so definitely not an issue there. I've heard p&p paints really don't take the place of primer anyway so I just tossed the primer on in the mean time.

Any recommendations on what to thin it with? And do I need to stick with paint manufacturer specs on how much to thin it? Or does it matter?

 

[may0naise]

Good to know about thinning and cleaning. I'm using a primer, so definitely not an issue there. I've heard p&p paints really don't take the place of primer anyway so I just tossed the primer on in the mean time.

Any recommendations on what to thin it with? And do I need to stick with paint manufacturer specs on how much to thin it? Or does it matter?

Water based paints are generally just thinned with water. Maybe some Floetrol. Honestly I don't really know as I have only used a graco 230 and they are much more forgiving than cheaper guns. I would say read your manual and play around a bit, but if you ALWAYS disassemble and clean them out ASAP when you are done you will have a much better experience.

 

[ZRX61]

If you end up watering the paint down, you need to mix it with a power tool stirrer doodad at least 5x longer than you think is necessary. You'll know you didn't mix it enough when it suddenly sprays just a bit of almost straight water & the *paint* runs down the wall to the floor.

 

[Sanderguy777]

If you end up watering the paint down, you need to mix it with a power tool stirrer doodad at least 5x longer than you think is necessary. You'll know you didn't mix it enough when it suddenly sprays just a bit of almost straight water & the *paint* runs down the wall to the floor.

Lol. I'll do that (the mixing, hopefully not the runny paint LOL)

Water based paints are generally just thinned with water. Maybe some Floetrol. Honestly I don't really know as I have only used a graco 230 and they are much more forgiving than cheaper guns. I would say read your manual and play around a bit, but if you ALWAYS disassemble and clean them out ASAP when you are done you will have a much better experience.

Yeah, those things are pretty cool. Especially the fact you just stick the siohoj I'm a bucket and go.
When would you use floetrol? Does it let you go more, or just mix better?

 

[signcrafter]

What are you painting? Not to be a jerk but with that sprayer and 6 year old behr paint dont expect it to go well.

 

[Boogerman]

You can do some things to make it go better, but cheap paint guns and old paint don't mix well. Some things to do: mix the paint thoroughly and thin to proper viscosity as described above. Then, strain all the paint. Practice a bit, won't need much. From what you describe, you're probably painting outside house or fence or similar? In that case, prep is important. Clean well. If you pressure wash, wait a week or more in dry weather to make sure you get all moisture out of cracks, overlaps, gaps, etc before you paint. Make long horizontal runs, keeping the gun absolutely 90 degrees to surface, don't flex your wrist to move the pattern horizontally, as it will also change application rate as the angle changes.

For exterior painting, an HVLP type gun works, but is slow. I sometimes use my turbine HVLP outside with water base, but much prefer to use an airless. But, $500 or so is minimum entry level for that. Well worth it, in my opinion. Works better and easier, and 10 times faster. If you're just painting your house, buy one, run it for the job, and resell to someone else for 80% of what you paid. Cheaper than renting, and you don't get some dog of a rental tool. I generally reserve my HVLP for applying varnishes and stains, and for oil based paints. It's way too slow for latex paints, compared to the airless.

 

[Sanderguy777]

What are you painting? Not to be a jerk but with that sprayer and 6 year old behr paint dont expect it to go well.

A flower pot for my grandmother.

I'm going to filter it, and it stirs up really nicely. I'm sure there are other things at play, but what would go bad? Just the chunks, or does ot dry out and get thicker?

 

[Sanderguy777]

You can do some things to make it go better, but cheap paint guns and old paint don't mix well. Some things to do: mix the paint thoroughly and thin to proper viscosity as described above. Then, strain all the paint. Practice a bit, won't need much. From what you describe, you're probably painting outside house or fence or similar? In that case, prep is important. Clean well. If you pressure wash, wait a week or more in dry weather to make sure you get all moisture out of cracks, overlaps, gaps, etc before you paint. Make long horizontal runs, keeping the gun absolutely 90 degrees to surface, don't flex your wrist to move the pattern horizontally, as it will also change application rate as the angle changes.

For exterior painting, an HVLP type gun works, but is slow. I sometimes use my turbine HVLP outside with water base, but much prefer to use an airless. But, $500 or so is minimum entry level for that. Well worth it, in my opinion. Works better and easier, and 10 times faster. If you're just painting your house, buy one, run it for the job, and resell to someone else for 80% of what you paid. Cheaper than renting, and you don't get some dog of a rental tool. I generally reserve my HVLP for applying varnishes and stains, and for oil based paints. It's way too slow for latex paints, compared to the airless.

Great advice! Thanks!

I'm repainting a flower pot I made for my grandmother. (Really a cover for pots, so she can save $50 a pop and use the basic black ones LOL).

If I filter it and thin it right, what would go wrong? Will it not dry right?

As for the airless, is that $500 unit really good or is that going to give similar results to the $77 help one I have? Would getting a used unit make sense (I want one for house painting at some point, but don't really paint or even finish things much at the moment). Also, would a pneumatic gun be ok, or is that just as bad as the other help guns?

 

[nadogail]

A little practice on an expendable surface will help keep you from an expensive error. A cardboard box makes a good test platform.

 

[Boogerman]

This is a decent paint machine for $500; used can be troublesome, I like to use a few times, then sell for $350 to someone else and buy another $500 one next time. Cost per use comes out cheap, and don't have problems.

 

[Davefr]

What are you painting? Not to be a jerk but with that sprayer and 6 year old behr paint dont expect it to go well.

I wouldn't expect anything to go well with Behr paint. The professional painter's say, "it's better to have bare walls then Behr on the walls". It goes on like molasses and covers like water.

 

[strutaeng]

Yep, that's a really cheap hvlp-sort sprayer. I had a similar Wagner when I was younger and it sucked for painting ceiling and walls in my living room, maybe 350 sq. ft. ceilings.

Tell us what you are trying to paint. It's okay for little things like crafts and maybe even smaller furniture.

For walls, ceilings, a lot of fencing and larger projects you need an airlines sprayer. Been there done that. Admittedly, a roller and brush to get a lot done and nothing wrong with that. They even have these 14" and 18" rollers that allow you to cover huge areas in short order.

 

[GeoBruin]

Yep, that's a really cheap hvlp-sort sprayer. I had a similar Wagner when I was younger and it sucked for painting ceiling and walls in my living room, maybe 350 sq. ft. ceilings.

Tell us what you are trying to paint. It's okay for little things like crafts and maybe even smaller furniture.

For walls, ceilings, a lot of fencing and larger projects you need an airlines sprayer. Been there done that. Admittedly, a roller and brush to get a lot done and nothing wrong with that. They even have these 14" and 18" rollers that allow you to cover huge areas in short order.

They did tell us what they're trying to paint, and it squarely fits your description of "crafts and maybe even smaller furniture." Read the thread.

 

[Sanderguy777]

Thanks all!

It didn't go well when I tried it at first. 4mm nozzle and no scientific basis for how viscous the paint was didn't help. It looked like orange peel. I'll give it another shot tomorrow, and see if I can get better results. Otherwise, it's a good texture gun!

 

[Stelzer]

Thanks all!

It didn't go well when I tried it at first. 4mm nozzle and no scientific basis for how viscous the paint was didn't help. It looked like orange peel. I'll give it another shot tomorrow, and see if I can get better results. Otherwise, it's a good texture gun!

The orange peel is due to a lack of atomization.. You'll need to thin it more, use the biggest tip you have, and heat up the paint. For every degree above 70 °F, it's approximately the equivalent to thinning it 1%, so for a 10% "reduction", heat to 80 °F. The advantage of heating vs. using thinning agents are that it won't compromise the integrity of the paint film by weakening it via watering it down.

 

[Sanderguy777]

The orange peel is due to a lack of atomization.. You'll need to thin it more, use the biggest tip you have, and heat up the paint. For every degree above 70 °F, it's approximately the equivalent to thinning it 1%, so for a 10% "reduction", heat to 80 °F. The advantage of heating vs. using thinning agents are that it won't compromise the integrity of the paint film by weakening it via watering it down.

Oh, cool! Would a great gun work to heat up the can? Or is that too extreme?

Also, what does floetrol do? I know its supposed to make it sepf leveling and minimize brush marks, but does it thin paint too? It didn't seem to do ANYTHING to the paint when I added it. Does it not physically thin it, just make it go through the gun better?

 

[will335i]

I assume it is warmer than 70 where your are at currently. Just put the paint can outside and let it warm up.

 

[Sanderguy777]

I assume it is warmer than 70 where your are at currently. Just put the paint can outside and let it warm up.

Makes sense. I'll try it tomorrow.

I just wondered if there was a better way. I work till 4pm, so i was hoping there was a way so I could get it warmed up today, not wait till tomorrow.

 

[flyingwolf]

Makes sense. I'll try it tomorrow.

I just wondered if there was a better way. I work till 4pm, so i was hoping there was a way so I could get it warmed up today, not wait till tomorrow.

You can worm it up ina crockpot full of water if you want, bring the water up to the temp you want, then sit the container in the water, let it heat it up nicely. And you are good to go.

 

[betulauber]

Be careful not to thin the paint too much or otherwise you'll get a lot of runs. I'm not familiar with that particular sprayer but I used a Graco Magnum X7 airless to paint my house. Also clean it thoroughly when you are done or you have to deal with clogs next time you use it.

 

[yatg]

Floetrol is not a thinner, as you found out.

Several years ago painted a bunch of doors using a Graco (Earlex) 2900 HVLP sprayer, similar size to what you have but it has a separate air source. Sprayed the doors vertically and horizontally, two coats each side.

Had to thin the paint a lot, 15%? Make sure you mix the water in thoroughly. I have a small squirrel cage mixer that did a really good job, but don't think you can get small ones any more. No experience with the paddle mixers they sell now.

Get a paint gun cleaning kit.

According to the Homeright manual, your sprayer comes with a viscosity cup, and the runout time for latex is 25 to 40 seconds. Did you read the manual?.

The little HVLP sprayers are good for small projects and are really great for things with multiple surfaces and angles. My doors were 6 panel and it would have been a chore to do them with a brush and roller. They don't put out as much paint as an airless so you don't have to move as fast. They are also easier to cleanup than an airless, you can do it at the kitchen sink.

 

[Sanderguy777]

Floetrol is not a thinner, as you found out.

Several years ago painted a bunch of doors using a Graco (Earlex) 2900 HVLP sprayer, similar size to what you have but it has a separate air source. Sprayed the doors vertically and horizontally, two coats each side.

Had to thin the paint a lot, 15%? Make sure you mix the water in thoroughly. I have a small squirrel cage mixer that did a really good job, but don't think you can get small ones any more. No experience with the paddle mixers they sell now.

Get a paint gun cleaning kit.

According to the Homeright manual, your sprayer comes with a viscosity cup, and the runout time for latex is 25 to 40 seconds. Did you read the manual?.

The little HVLP sprayers are good for small projects and are really great for things with multiple surfaces and angles. My doors were 6 panel and it would have been a chore to do them with a brush and roller. They don't put out as much paint as an airless so you don't have to move as fast. They are also easier to cleanup than an airless, you can do it at the kitchen sink.

I did read the manual. Or at least the one that came with my Finishmax Super (which package I did NOT get a cup with. I had to order it separately). Cup manual only talks about the 2mm nozzle, not a word about any of the other 5 sizes I have LOL.

Think I can use acetone or mineral spirits on the latex residue? I didn't do a perfect job on the cleaning, ngl...

 

[dnschmidt]

Acetone or mineral spirits will not touch latex paint if it's good latex paint. Something like butyl Cellosolve, a glycol either usually works.

 

[Sanderguy777]

Acetone or mineral spirits will not touch latex paint if it's good latex paint. Something like butyl Cellosolve, a glycol either usually works.

Oh, ok. Well, never heard of that, so I'll go out on a limb and guess it's not a product from your local Home Depot LOL.

I'll see if I can find some.

 

[yatg]

I did read the manual. Or at least the one that came with my Finishmax Super (which package I did NOT get a cup with. I had to order it separately). Cup manual only talks about the 2mm nozzle, not a word about any of the other 5 sizes I have LOL.

Here's a link to the manual I was looking at. Probably from an older version w/o interchangeable tips. Page 6 talks about thinning and run out times.

HOMERIGHT FINISH MAX INSTRUCTION MANUAL Pdf Download

View and Download Homeright Finish max instruction manual online. fine finish sprayer. finish max paint sprayer pdf manual download. Also for: Super finish max.

www.manualslib.com

I'd suggest mixing up some paint with a 30 second run out and test spray. Evaluate and adjust from there. Companies just don't give detailed directions about anything these days.

 

[dnschmidt]

Here's a link to the manual I was looking at. Probably from an older version w/o interchangeable tips. Page 6 talks about thinning and run out times.

HOMERIGHT FINISH MAX INSTRUCTION MANUAL Pdf Download

View and Download Homeright Finish max instruction manual online. fine finish sprayer. finish max paint sprayer pdf manual download. Also for: Super finish max.

www.manualslib.com

I'd suggest mixing up some paint with a 30 second run out and test spray. Evaluate and adjust from there. Companies just don't give detailed directions about anything these days.

Likely because their customers can't read. If they can't see a YouTube video they're fucked.

 

[Stelzer]

Oh, cool! Would a great gun work to heat up the can? Or is that too extreme?

Also, what does floetrol do? I know its supposed to make it sepf leveling and minimize brush marks, but does it thin paint too? It didn't seem to do ANYTHING to the paint when I added it. Does it not physically thin it, just make it go through the gun better?

Floetrol is a leveler, designed to help acrylic paint flow better, but it's old tech and, depending upon the gloss of paint you're using, could also affect sheen. There are better alternatives. BM's 518 or XIM to name a few

 

[Sanderguy777]

Floetrol is a leveler, designed to help acrylic paint flow better, but it's old tech and, depending upon the gloss of paint you're using, could also affect sheen. There are better alternatives. BM's 518 or XIM to name a few

Thanks! That's good info. I assume both of those options are also just levelers? And not thinners?

Here's a link to the manual I was looking at. Probably from an older version w/o interchangeable tips. Page 6 talks about thinning and run out times.

HOMERIGHT FINISH MAX INSTRUCTION MANUAL Pdf Download

View and Download Homeright Finish max instruction manual online. fine finish sprayer. finish max paint sprayer pdf manual download. Also for: Super finish max.

www.manualslib.com

I'd suggest mixing up some paint with a 30 second run out and test spray. Evaluate and adjust from there. Companies just don't give detailed directions about anything these days.

Ok, that's good info. I'll take a look.

I tried later and got a good mix that's thin enough to spray (didn't bother with the viscosity cup, just went till it looked like a thin syrup or thick water LOL). It dried quick, and didn't seem to have the same issues of being sticky feeling after "drying". It did skin over on the tip if I left it for more than like 30 seconds...

 

[smackey05]

Practice Practice Practice!

I'd spray something with similar curves/corners that you are going to be painting.

 

[Sanderguy777]

Practice Practice Practice!

I'd spray something with similar curves/corners that you are going to be painting.

I already finished the job. I'll definitely do more work with the sprayer though. I think it's a good tool, just takes practice, like you said.

Any recommendations on where to find info on thinning paint effectively?

 

[firebirdparts]

Housepaint is pretty hard to thin just right. Wagner used to recommend you use floetrol and i don't know if that would help with your style sprayer or not. They were recommending it for their pump sprayer. I kind of assumed it was a surface tension modifier. maybe "leveler" is the right name for that after all.

the wagners had a cup that came with them so that you could thin the pain objectively. That can't be wrong, but then again, I'm not saying latex pain thinned objectively would spray well.

 

[Sanderguy777]

Housepaint is pretty hard to thin just right. Wagner used to recommend you use floetrol and i don't know if that would help with your style sprayer or not. They were recommending it for their pump sprayer. I kind of assumed it was a surface tension modifier. maybe "leveler" is the right name for that after all.

the wagners had a cup that came with them so that you could thin the pain objectively. That can't be wrong, but then again, I'm not saying latex pain thinned objectively would spray well.

I'm sure the viscosity cup would help get good results eventually, but I have a lean-to with shade fabric, a 90-somethong⁰ day, and other things to do. I was I'm no mood to mess with a cup and follow labels by the end LOL. oh, and the cup was more than 20% of the cost of the sprayer, and a separate charge, and an extra day of waiting LOL

Next time I'll give it a shot and see if I can get some better results.