@d42jeep and I favor Signal Corps Green, Type I, from Midwest Military. But I will hasten to add that it's expensive and only worth it if you really care about the shade, which is the closest anyone has found to being period correct wartime in a rattle can. In other words, if you're just painting any old chests and cabinets that color because you like it, I would use other choices you can find at HD or Lowes etc.I know it's been mentioned before, but what is the best ARMY GREEN FLAT paint available?
Tagging @d42jeep again. He has done several boxes that have come out pretty good.also anybody have a method of krinkle painting old metal cabinets or toolboxes do tell.
They do have numbers, will see if I can get some done. As you can appreciate, I want to keep the original locks.If the locks have code numbers a decent locksmith can cut new keys for you. Hopefully they are both the same.
Those are a nice set up with all that drawer space. Is that a vault door frame in the background? The frame on it looks huge whatever it is!drivesitfar: thanks for the interest in my old metal cabinets, above pics are all I have.
I do have these old drawers that came from a comm college auction, I put them under these work benches.
Vault door yes, this door was removed from the Detroit FBI field office McNamara federal building.Those are a nice set up with all that drawer space. Is that a vault door frame in the background? The frame on it looks huge whatever it is!
here is the doorDo you have he door? or just the frame?


Thanks Mike.
Left this behind at the flea this morning. I liked it. Industrial look. Hanging drawer slides. Two pieces. And the top tilted up. But I didn't like it enough for the asking price.
At $100, I'd be on that like a rooster on a June Bug.Not as far as I want. He wants $100 and he is notoriously firm. See those trailers in the back? Full of stuff. He doesn't even haul it away. Just locks it back up. Has some kind of arrangement. The other liquidators would probably take $40 just to get rid of it.
Make him an offer the can’t refuse. J/kNot as far as I want. He wants $100 and he is notoriously firm. See those trailers in the back? Full of stuff. He doesn't even haul it away. Just locks it back up. Has some kind of arrangement. The other liquidators would probably take $40 just to get rid of it.
Weird?! It's a flea market! In NJ! Haggling is de rigeur. It's the expectation. It's part of the culture. It's in everyone's DNA. The only time it's not expected here is the $1 table. It's an art and a science, but there is an unwritten decorum, even among shabby gentlemen. I won't talk someone down to $3 from $5, and $50, which is as high as I would go for that chest, is too far apart from asking to not be a lowball. It's too bad it was this guy, who's always high. If it was any of the other liquidators, they wouldn't be asking an estate sale price. They are bulk guys. Bulk buyers, not per buyers. He doesn't have any chest price invested in that chest. He'd be $50 ahead....just out of a weird principle...
Dang, you can say that again.Phoenix never was the manufacturing heartland so we don't see the industrial surplus you guys are tripping over in the East and Upper Midwest.
Weird?! It's a flea market! In NJ! Haggling is de rigeur. It's the expectation. It's part of the culture. It's in everyone's DNA.
The exception being if it’s been listed for a long time. In that case I will start with ’”I know you said the price was firm, and I don’t want to get lumped in with the low ballers, but it has been listed for a long time”. Sometimes I’ll point out that these particular items normally sell pretty fast.Don't get me wrong, I know people who won't pay full price at a RETAIL store (they just have to haggle everywhere). That annoys me, only because it's NOT in my DNA. I've really only haggle with CL, because I figure it's expected there.
When people over-price and insist they're firm, I don't waste my time. The only result will be two frustrated people, and an unsold item.
Mike