Are Fluke Multimeters Worth The Substantial Extra Money?

[AEAdam]

Throwing in my 2 cents with a HUGE grain of salt because I'm NOT an electrician....

I bought a Chinese made Fluke 15B in the UK. At the time, they weren't available in the US. Think I paid less than $80 for it.

Unlike some of the cheaper models, it came with premium leads that (I think) are silicone rubber and heavy duty. They don't kink and they don't get tangled. No idea what the meter does or doesn't do. IMHO cheap wires make meters more difficult to use and Fluke leads are kinda expensive but worth paying extra for. Fluke also has really nice accessories like huge alligators you can grab a car battery lug with.

The way the battery replacement works on the 15B, you push this little battery tray onto terminals soldered to the main CB. I misaligned it and broke one of those terminals. I got the part from china for $12 and replaced the broken one (a little minor CB repair). This may be the sort of thing you get with the Asian imports and is better on the US Flukes. It's little stuff like that I suspect. That said. It broke and I fixed it. Parts were available, just not local.

I recently bought a Fluke T5-600 for household wiring (I'm building and recently installed a sub panel. A first for me!) I like the T5-600 because it's easy to hold, and easy to operate one handed. Not sure how it would be for DC automotive, but worth googling to see if there are other meters with that form factor. I think if I were starting over, I'd get a Power Probe for automotive and the T5 or something similar for household wiring. You can put the T5 in your back pocket.

 

[anndel]

Love my 1990's Fluke 87 V. Use it for home electrical repairs, ham radio repairs, automotive work, electronic troubleshooting and kit building. Calibrated it with a known reference a couple of years ago before the pandemic (friend did it at his work) and it was within +/- 5%. I have a etekcity and Astro AI for field work and the Etekcity is another option. The Astro (not Astro Tools or Pneumatic) feels cheap, takes a while to post readings the leads seems not connected where you have to jiggle it around. Switching to the Fluke leads doesn't help.

 

[anndel]

Love my 1990's Fluke 87 V. Use it for home electrical repairs, ham radio repairs, automotive work, electronic troubleshooting and kit building. Calibrated it with a known reference a couple of years ago before the pandemic (friend did it at his work) and it was within +/- 5%. I have a etekcity and Astro AI for field work and the Etekcity is another option. The Astro (not Astro Tools or Pneumatic) feels cheap, takes a while to post readings the leads seems not connected where you have to jiggle it around. Switching to the Fluke leads doesn't help.

BLUF: Yeah the higher price is worth every penny.

 

[RedneckWelder]

To me yes.

There are more reasonable price options for Fluke at homes. Used is a great option. My milsurp 77 that I purchased because of this forum was a hundred bucks.

 

[shibertus]

Hioki products are probably the best bang for the buck in the industry. Hioki build, construction, and safety exceed anything you'll find from Fluke. Only downside with Hioki is they're not well known outside of Japan.

DT4222 is probably around $120-140. If you want something that will just give you non-RMS voltage, resistance, and continuity a 3244-60 will set you back $40.

@BrandonV Any thoughts on whether the DT4256 is worth the extra bucks over the DT4222?

 

[BrandonV]

@BrandonV Any thoughts on whether the DT4256 is worth the extra bucks over the DT4222?

The DT4222 does not support current measurements of any kind. In certain industrial environments, safety typically does not want people running the risk of putting themselves in series with a circuit.

If you do not need current measurement it is a good meter otherwise I still push people to the DT4256.

 

[Crazyjake8493]

Are Fluke worth the extra cost?
For an electrician using it every day? Yes.
For an HVAC tech using it every day? No. Get a Fieldpiece, Redfish, etc
For a home DIY'er? No. Get a Klein, Southwire, etc.

The one exception to my rule is that if you buy a non-contact voltage tester - always buy the Fluke. The other ones - Klein, Southwire, Milwaukee, Gardner Bender, etc.. - all junk. Fluke is the only one I've used every day without trouble, no guessing, it just works.

 

[IndyGarage]

Do you need a fluke for DIY use? No. Is it nice? Definitely

For years I got by with very cheap meters. I still have a couple of red Gardner Benders that I keep in my vehicles and use regularly. They generally work fine. Before that I used a cheap analog meter that I got from Harbor Freight.

However when there is a choice between a Fluke and any other meter, I will pick up the Fluke first.

I bought a Fluke 89 -IV a few years ago at a swap meet, for $150. It's overkill for me. I'll never use half the functions, but I understand completely why people love to use those things. It feels as strong as a brick. Every button and knob clicks substantially. It responds instantly. Necessary, no. Nice yes.

 

[richfinn]

I'm a Vehicle Tech and have a couple of Fluke DVOMs, besides the price point I would say this.

They are very tough (quality materials), easy to use, somewhat water resistant, trustworthy multimeters.

You can generally get parts for them long after they are discontinued.

For me the speed of the continuity beeper when checking switches etc. and the reliability of the MIN/MAX function when performing volt drop tests and T-PAK accessories makes them worth the extra cash.

That said, just buy a used one in good condition from eBay, a lot of people just buy tools for the brand name/colour/street cred and never get to grips with actually using them!!!

You will find lots that have never seen any serious work and just sat in a toolbox thanks to the rise of "Powerprobe"

I've met "Techs" who have literally never ever used the Amps function on $500 Fluke Meters because the learning curve is too steep, and prefer green light/red light testing a bit too much

 

[bradthefixer]

Retired IT Guy, have always used Fluke equipment in the IT world. Generally they were way more advanced and tougher than the competition, but the IT world is an always moving target, where state of the art today is throw away 8 years from now.

Im now looking to upgrade my 10 year old home digital multi-meter. I do general, automotive and appliance troubleshooting and repair. In my mind, this world has not / does not change much.

How do the below listed units compare in performance and reliability? Is the Fluke worth the 6-8 times the price over the others? If you have a better suggestion than these, what do you own or would buy today?

Fluke 116 or 117
or
Astro AI TRMS 6000
or
Kaiweets 6000

Have you ever blown the fuse on your Fluke? I have while searching or parasitic 12v drain. I forgot to switch the meter and now I don't remember what it was, so I'll probably blow the fuse again? Anyway, I paid $35.00 for one fuse at a local supply house as I couldn't wait for an Amazon delivery. I now use my cheap amazon MM with back up fuses I found on Amazon. I have 5 MM all of different brands, my Fluke is my go-to, the wire leads are always snug, and attachments are of very good quality unlike most off-brand Amazon meters.

 

[BrandonV]

That said, just buy a used one in good condition from eBay, a lot of people just buy tools for the brand name/colour/street cred and never get to grips with actually using them!!!

Tell me about it. Right now I have a brand new Gossen Metrawatt multimeter on eBay for half off what the retail price is and zero interest.

It blows any Fluke away in terms of construction, safety, and accuracy... but it's not a Fluke!

 

[Higgins]

I'm looking for more features and better screen than the Fluke 100 series provides. If I went Fluke, I've narrowed it down to 116 or 117 (really 117) which is over $225. Hard to justify $225 when I can get everything except the ability to beat on it for $30-$50.

BTW, it appears that all of the Fluke models I'm considering are now made in China, which takes away another justification for spending 4X the money on Fluke.

Don't get me wrong, I LOVE the Fluke brand and in our IT Services company (sold in 2019) we had over $50,000 of Fluke diagnostic and test equipment and it is all still in use today. But those days are over and I'm looking for a reliable multimeter to do work around the house and garage.

Have several Flukes from the 70s and have kept on ticking after being experienced to temps in excess of 125, blowing sand storms, as well as temps in the -40s. Both meters are still operational. And they were made in the USA..

 

[richfinn]

Tell me about it. Right now I have a brand new Gossen Metrawatt multimeter on eBay for half off what the retail price is and zero interest.

It blows any Fluke away in terms of construction, safety, and accuracy... but it's not a Fluke!

Yep, if it was Yellow you would have a bidding war going on

 

[richfinn]

Have you ever blown the fuse on your Fluke? I have while searching or parasitic 12v drain. I forgot to switch the meter and now I don't remember what it was, so I'll probably blow the fuse again? Anyway, I paid $35.00 for one fuse at a local supply house as I couldn't wait for an Amazon delivery. I now use my cheap amazon MM with back up fuses I found on Amazon. I have 5 MM all of different brands, my Fluke is my go-to, the wire leads are always snug, and attachments are of very good quality unlike most off-brand Amazon meters.

There is a solution for this, I do a lot of parasitic drain testing and this tool is awesome.

1. It protects you blowing expensive multimeter fuses and saves your battery.

2. You can use your meter for other tasks (like milli-volt dropping the fuses) whilst the test is in progress.

3. the two male plugs are spaced to directly plug into the Amps/Common jacks on your meter.

It's a bit expensive and you could quite easily make your own version, but a great bit of equipment nonetheless.

Vehicle Current Parasitic Drain Tester WCDT | Warwick Test Supplies

Parasitic Current Drain Tester for vehicle diagnostics and testing. A durable test accessory featuring an inbuilt 'meter saver' fuse and switchable 15A fuse

warwickts.com

 

[TangoFoxTrot]

No, not worth it for a DIY'er.

I honestly think the free ones they used to give out at Harbor Freight can handle 99% of what the average user needs.

I have some nicer multimeters, but I find myself just grabbing the cheap ones.

If this is how you make your living, then yes, buy nicer multimeter like Fluke.

 

[F-22]

Had the Fluke 107 for a bit. I think a 20-30$ multimeter does everything my 90$ one does. That said the Fluke is notably better made. Nicer housing, seems the assembly is "tighter" and the plastic is thicker and more premium, and the action on the knob is way better.

Really minor things for the extra cost. The cheap multimeters work but definitely feel less solid and I enjoy my 107.

 

[ColorMeOrange]

I'm a firm believer in buying something once knowing it always costs more. In the short or long run to me its worth doing so in most instances.

Your paying for quality and reliability obviously. But also the ease of getting customer service when it does become needed. As pointed out prior.

I have often said "you should of went straight for the expensive model like I told ya' ". Two or three replacements ago . They often end up paying more then the expensive one would of costed in first place.

 

[richfinn]

I'm a firm believer in buying something once knowing it always costs more. In the short or long run to me its worth doing so in most instances.

Your paying for quality and reliability obviously. But also the ease of getting customer service when it does become needed. As pointed out prior.

I have often said "you should of went straight for the expensive model like I told ya' ". Two or three replacements ago . They often end up paying more then the expensive one would of costed in first place.

If you don't love it, don't waste money on it, save up and buy the one you really want.

This also applies when choosing a wife (don't ask me how I learned that painful lesson)

 

[Lassen Forge]

I like my Fluke because it's large enough not to get lost, and I can actually read it... plus it has an inherant accuracy that my $4.99 Shadio Shack (I guess it would be Horror Fright now) cheapy analog meters... especially for checking things like bus voltages, component draw, etc... The 87 gives you true RMS (which is great for radio stuff), my 88 does auto stuff (and it has a hook set up to hang from under a hood)... but if I'm using it for quick checks - continuity, stab and grab voltages, etc - I like the old school El Cheapamundo swinging needle specials as they're "close enough". Problem is (for me) they're getting harder to find.

 

[Hohn]

No, not worth it for a DIY'er.

I honestly think the free ones they used to give out at Harbor Freight can handle 99% of what the average user needs.

I have some nicer multimeters, but I find myself just grabbing the cheap ones.

If this is how you make your living, then yes, buy nicer multimeter like Fluke.

Fluke meters are ONLY worthwhile for certain industry and government applications where they are tied to the "official" measuring procedure. Fluke meters are actually engineered into many legal and regulatory processes (think military T.O.). Quite the achievement.

If you just need an acceptably accurate/precise measurement, you can do as well or better for about 1/3 the cost.

I'm a fan of the Brymens EEVblog sells.

 

[justtools]

I like quality tools. I have a fluke 87v at my job. one in my service truck and another at home garage. I have a few guys in the shop I work in that use other meters! The laugh is they come over to borrow mine when they wonder if the readings they get are accurate. I have asked them if they dont trust their meter why have it and havent got a good response. Not everyone needs a 500 dollar meter, But for less than 200 you still can get a quality fluke.

 

[bradthefixer]

There is a solution for this, I do a lot of parasitic drain testing and this tool is awesome.

1. It protects you blowing expensive multimeter fuses and saves your battery.

2. You can use your meter for other tasks (like milli-volt dropping the fuses) whilst the test is in progress.

3. the two male plugs are spaced to directly plug into the Amps/Common jacks on your meter.

It's a bit expensive and you could quite easily make your own version, but a great bit of equipment nonetheless.

Vehicle Current Parasitic Drain Tester WCDT | Warwick Test Supplies

Parasitic Current Drain Tester for vehicle diagnostics and testing. A durable test accessory featuring an inbuilt 'meter saver' fuse and switchable 15A fuse

warwickts.com

Huh, I did not know about this little device and thank you for sharing, I will be buying on of these. I have used a DC (clamp) amp probe and a Flir TG130 Infared handheld scanner for parasitic drains. Fuse pulling method is not accurate with today's cars as capacitance is almost always present, I have found.

 

[bradthefixer]

Huh, I did not know about this little device and thank you for sharing, I will be buying on of these. I have used a DC (clamp) amp probe and a Flir TG130 Infared handheld scanner for parasitic drains. Fuse pulling method is not accurate with today's cars as capacitance is almost always present, I have found.

Hello richfinn, is there any way I could pick your brain regarding a parasitic drain on my wife's 2012 Ford edge V6? I've narrowed it down to the BCM pretty sure. I'm able to replace it but no luck other than he dealer to reprogram the BCM and the key fobs. In fact, now the dealer won't reprogram if I do the install. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated by my wife!

 

[cgrutt]

Hello richfinn, is there any way I could pick your brain regarding a parasitic drain on my wife's 2012 Ford edge V6? I've narrowed it down to the BCM pretty sure. I'm able to replace it but no luck other than he dealer to reprogram the BCM and the key fobs. In fact, now the dealer won't reprogram if I do the install. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated by my wife!

My guess is it would probably be cheaper and more reliable to have dealer swap and reprogram bcm for you but if you're like me and prefer to DIY there may be a few options you can try. I'm assuming you're picking up a used BCM from salvage yard, etc.

1. Probably least expensive and reliable. The parameters for your vehicle "may" be stored in another module while key is left on (engine off). If you swap the BCM with the key on engine off your vehicle's parameters may transfer to new module when you turn power off and restart. I've never tried this before but have seen some people claim it works on YouTube, etc. Note no idea if this will damage the current BCM so not without risk if it doesn't work.

2. Not expensive but more work. Swap the EEPROM that stores vehicle ID and settings from old BCM to the donor. Obviously need to make sure both BCMs are same. Risk damaging either the EEPROM or PCB while making swap but it should work.

3. More expensive but less physical work. Copy contents of said EEPROM and reflash the donor. Obviously need an old laptop and EEPROM programmer to do this. May need to solder some wires on both boards if you don't have required adapters. May be able to send both modules out to an electronics shop to have them do it for you which would probably be cheaper than dealer but no guarantees that it will work.

4. Potentially most expensive esp if you dont already have laptop and programming interface or know somebody that does. Buy a subscription to ACDELCO SPS (I think that's what it's called) and reprogram module yourself. Need an old laptop and appropriate ODBII interface such as the VCX Nano. Subscription is about $45 for one VIN for two years. However not sure if subscription only works on a new module or not.

 

[N8sToolz]

To swap a bcm in that you would need fdrs from Ford to program software, and then a parameter reset. Software like forscan MIGHT be able to do it, but I have not had great luck with it. In 2012 used might be possible, that about when they started changing security on them.

Usually I find in those something else is keeping the network awake, like infotainment systems and the bcm is the last to go to sleep. It's worth disabling non essential modules to see if you can get it to go to sleep.

 

[micromind]

I've spent 32 years as a commercial/industrial electrician, I have only 1 Fluke meter. It's a 4-20ma clamp-on, I use it often. The others are a hodgepodge mix of different brands.

In all that time, a lot of it service work and troubleshooting, I can't remember ever not being able to do something with my stuff that I could have done with a Fluke.

Don't hear me wrong, they're great meters, I just couldn't justify the price for them.

 

[Chilliwack Murray]

I've been in power generation field service for 28 years and I've had Fluke 87-1, 87-5, and now a 177 and 289 along with current clamps, meggers and rotation meters. I've only ever had one fail (failed calibration) and those 87s were used in all kinds of weather, often soaked in rain, usually in continuous use 4 or more hours per day, dropped from ladders etc. We've had many techs over the years use their meters wrong with no damage apart from a fuse or a lead. I've seen these connected to 600VAC while set for ohms without any damage.

Over the same time I've also witnessed 4 non-Fluke branded meters fail catastrophically while in use by contractors and have seen the result of many more. I've also been to more service calls than I can recall for non-existent problems diagnosed with a sub-par meter. Meters are getting better but many do not give true RMS measurements and can be way off on AC voltages and frequency depending on the loads connected.

For a guy at home working on DC, almost any meter will do. For a professional it's hard to go wrong with a Fluke, though like any other tool, every trade has is specialty tools and there is never a single manufacturer who is best at everything. For a homeowner working with AC, I would say a modern Fluke meter is a great investment in safety. It's the DIY guy with limited experience and knowledge who is most likely to make a mistake and hook a meter up wrong. With a cheap (or even expensive) meter without the added safety this can easily lead to serious injuries or worse. There is a reason those meter fuses are $35.

For me and in my trade specifically, Fluke is a known, safe, high performing option and anything else is a crapshoot.

 

[bradthefixer]

My guess is it would probably be cheaper and more reliable to have dealer swap and reprogram bcm for you but if you're like me and prefer to DIY there may be a few options you can try. I'm assuming you're picking up a used BCM from salvage yard, etc.

1. Probably least expensive and reliable. The parameters for your vehicle "may" be stored in another module while key is left on (engine off). If you swap the BCM with the key on engine off your vehicle's parameters may transfer to new module when you turn power off and restart. I've never tried this before but have seen some people claim it works on YouTube, etc. Note no idea if this will damage the current BCM so not without risk if it doesn't work.

2. Not expensive but more work. Swap the EEPROM that stores vehicle ID and settings from old BCM to the donor. Obviously need to make sure both BCMs are same. Risk damaging either the EEPROM or PCB while making swap but it should work.

3. More expensive but less physical work. Copy contents of said EEPROM and reflash the donor. Obviously need an old laptop and EEPROM programmer to do this. May need to solder some wires on both boards if you don't have required adapters. May be able to send both modules out to an electronics shop to have them do it for you which would probably be cheaper than dealer but no guarantees that it will work.

4. Potentially most expensive esp if you dont already have laptop and programming interface or know somebody that does. Buy a subscription to ACDELCO SPS (I think that's what it's called) and reprogram module yourself. Need an old laptop and appropriate ODBII interface such as the VCX Nano. Subscription is about $45 for one VIN for two years. However not sure if subscription only works on a new module or not.

Wow, that's more info than I've found searching the web! Four ideas in one post, that is outstanding, usually its one idea per post on the net. My thought was buying a new BCM as reviews for outsourcing my current BCM being swapped for a reprogrammed bcm, Online reviews of this process are really bad. I emailed one vendor with questions and their reply about a successful swap was not convincing at all. A local Ford dealer serv writer (Whom I know personally) told me he's never heard of a Ford Edge having any type of parasitic drain. Thats when I figured I'm on my own. Thank you for your input, very much appreciated

 

[bradthefixer]

To swap a bcm in that you would need fdrs from Ford to program software, and then a parameter reset. Software like forscan MIGHT be able to do it, but I have not had great luck with it. In 2012 used might be possible, that about when they started changing security on them.

Usually I find in those something else is keeping the network awake, like infotainment systems and the bcm is the last to go to sleep. It's worth disabling non essential modules to see if you can get it to go to sleep.

Thank you, I thought I had it figured out when I sat in the car in a pitch-black garage. Sitting motionless for 30 min. I could hear the speakers pop/click ever so slightly. I removed the audio fuse, that fuse also controls the dash lights/gauge function. All was good no drain for a week then one morning a dead battery. No aftermarket electrical anything on wife's car. 2012 car and still seems to be a mystery online and at the Ford dealer for what exactly will cure this issue. So many dealership horror stories online. Many Ford Edge cars were bought back when new for this problem due to the lemon law.

 

[cgrutt]

Wow, that's more info than I've found searching the web! Four ideas in one post, that is outstanding, usually its one idea per post on the net. My thought was buying a new BCM as reviews for outsourcing my current BCM being swapped for a reprogrammed bcm, Online reviews of this process are really bad. I emailed one vendor with questions and their reply about a successful swap was not convincing at all. A local Ford dealer serv writer (Whom I know personally) told me he's never heard of a Ford Edge having any type of parasitic drain. Thats when I figured I'm on my own. Thank you for your input, very much appreciated

No problem. For some reason I had chevy stuck in my head but same general idea for Ford. Not sure if Ford sells a subscription to one vehicle though sorry about that. Best to let dealer do it but I always try to figure this stuff out for myself. In general the EEPROM should have the vehicle data you need so if you can swap it or copy and reflash I think you would be able to swap modules. I fixed the FRM module on my son's BMW by reflashing the EEPROM. Believe FRM module is similar to BCM it controls the lights, windows, sunroof, door locks, etc. Anyway, good luck.

 

[BrandonV]

Thank you, I thought I had it figured out when I sat in the car in a pitch-black garage. Sitting motionless for 30 min. I could hear the speakers pop/click ever so slightly. I removed the audio fuse, that fuse also controls the dash lights/gauge function. All was good no drain for a week then one morning a dead battery. No aftermarket electrical anything on wife's car. 2012 car and still seems to be a mystery online and at the Ford dealer for what exactly will cure this issue. So many dealership horror stories online. Many Ford Edge cars were bought back when new for this problem due to the lemon law.

When identifying parasitic drains it's imperative you not guess at the problem (this can become very expensive!).

In the couple of cases where people were unable to diagnose the problem I used a used voltage datalogger on fuses (voltage drop across) & a low amp hall effect clamp on the main battery to determine what was going on.

 

[VolvoRyan]

Have you ever blown the fuse on your Fluke? I have while searching or parasitic 12v drain. I forgot to switch the meter and now I don't remember what it was, so I'll probably blow the fuse again? Anyway, I paid $35.00 for one fuse at a local supply house as I couldn't wait for an Amazon delivery. I now use my cheap amazon MM with back up fuses I found on Amazon. I have 5 MM all of different brands, my Fluke is my go-to, the wire leads are always snug, and attachments are of very good quality unlike most off-brand Amazon meters.

Just buy a handful of fuses. I had a jumper lead come loose while measuring current draw, and it found ground. Fuse blown. I was surprised that the meter still worked in every other way so it could test its own fuse while I had it broken down.

Flukes are really, really nice. Lots of good cheap meters on the market nowadays. Though, in a lot of ways, you get what you pay for.

-Ryan

 

[oni888]

I've been in power generation field service for 28 years and I've had Fluke 87-1, 87-5, and now a 177 and 289 along with current clamps, meggers and rotation meters. I've only ever had one fail (failed calibration) and those 87s were used in all kinds of weather, often soaked in rain, usually in continuous use 4 or more hours per day, dropped from ladders etc. We've had many techs over the years use their meters wrong with no damage apart from a fuse or a lead. I've seen these connected to 600VAC while set for ohms without any damage.

Over the same time I've also witnessed 4 non-Fluke branded meters fail catastrophically while in use by contractors and have seen the result of many more. I've also been to more service calls than I can recall for non-existent problems diagnosed with a sub-par meter. Meters are getting better but many do not give true RMS measurements and can be way off on AC voltages and frequency depending on the loads connected.

For a guy at home working on DC, almost any meter will do. For a professional it's hard to go wrong with a Fluke, though like any other tool, every trade has is specialty tools and there is never a single manufacturer who is best at everything. For a homeowner working with AC, I would say a modern Fluke meter is a great investment in safety. It's the DIY guy with limited experience and knowledge who is most likely to make a mistake and hook a meter up wrong. With a cheap (or even expensive) meter without the added safety this can easily lead to serious injuries or worse. There is a reason those meter fuses are $35.

For me and in my trade specifically, Fluke is a known, safe, high performing option and anything else is a crapshoot.

Kohler, Onan gensets maybe? i spent 25 years in the industry starting in the 1960's before i gave up and did a mid life career change. i got a couple Flukes back in the early 80's but much preferred my trusty old Simpson 260. used the Flukes mainly doing startups on new equipment when "engineers" present to "wow" them. still have the Flukes and one Simpson left and still prefer it.

 

[richfinn]

Hello richfinn, is there any way I could pick your brain regarding a parasitic drain on my wife's 2012 Ford edge V6? I've narrowed it down to the BCM pretty sure. I'm able to replace it but no luck other than he dealer to reprogram the BCM and the key fobs. In fact, now the dealer won't reprogram if I do the install. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated by my wife!

We don't have the Ford Edge in the UK unfortunately.

Does this car have a keyless entry system?

Are you 100% sure it's the speakers popping?

 

[Chilliwack Murray]

Kohler, Onan gensets maybe? i spent 25 years in the industry starting in the 1960's before i gave up and did a mid life career change. i got a couple Flukes back in the early 80's but much preferred my trusty old Simpson 260. used the Flukes mainly doing startups on new equipment when "engineers" present to "wow" them. still have the Flukes and one Simpson left and still prefer it.

Primarily Onan but whatever variety of equipment the customer had.

About the Simpson, there is no substitute for an analogue meter in troubleshooting stability issues. Regardless of brand it takes a full on scope meter to come close to what a good analogue will tell you.

 

[AJHD]

About the Simpson, there is no substitute for an analogue meter in troubleshooting stability issues. Regardless of brand it takes a full on scope meter to come close to what a good analogue will tell you.

I don't think that's a factual statement.

We all have preferences, but I don't see how a decent 4 digit digital multimeter would "tell you less" than an analog meter does. By design, there is only so much an analog meter can show.

Care to elaborate or provide some examples?

 

[nadogail]

Fluke is the equivalent of SnapOn, more strength and quality than most of us will ever need, but their reputation is very well earned.

 

[nadogail]

I still miss my Simpson 260. I lost it in the mid ‘80s.

 

[ItsNemo]

Fluke is the equivalent of SnapOn, more strength and quality than most of us will ever need, but their reputation is very well earned.

Fluke is even better than SnapOn IMO...you don't have their racket of tool trucks, I can go buy a Fluke meter off Amazon or ITM or any sort of store at any price point that suits my needs.

 

[BrandonV]

I don't think that's a factual statement.

We all have preferences, but I don't see how a decent 4 digit digital multimeter would "tell you less" than an analog meter does. By design, there is only so much an analog meter can show.

Care to elaborate or provide some examples?

At least in my experience analog multimeters are still useful to adjust rapidly changing voltage readings that may be fluctuating as you're making an adjustment. Even the best digital VOMs have issue with the bar graph responding. Railroad instrumentation guys still use them for that purpose.

An oscilloscope is the best tool IMO for those sorts of adjustments.