stripped T20 torx cap screw

[sqznby]

I don't typically post this kind of stuff, I'm stubborn when it comes to asking for help.
I need a little help
I guess Google 09 Dodge Charger ABS module replacement for an idea of what is going on.
Here is a smorgasbord of pictures to see what I'm dealing with and the culprit. And of course, it's the last cap screw that has be give me trouble.

The only tool that will fit is a 2" t20 torx bit with a 1/4" ratcheting wrench. I may be able to get my M12 right-angle drill in there if I have but that is my last resort.

I found a way to hold the bit in place and tap it with a piece of brass. Doesn't help.

I'm hoping someone has some info about extractors or really anything at this point to remove it.

Has anyone hav luck with a reverse drill bit extractor?

Any and all info would be much appreciated.

If anyone asks why not send it to a mechanic, I said I was stubborn and I don't want to fork out the $1200 beans I was quoted. Parts & Labor and that's from my local guy I have relied on for 7 years.
I try to do as much to my vehicles as I can while I'm vertical oh and did I say I was stubborn.

Thanks everyone

 

[alfadan]

Are you replacing it? Can you get a dremel cutoff or hacksaw blade between the module and mount to cut the screw get the remaining piece out later?

Even if you can't get it out, three outta four holding the new on on aint bad!

Hack-mechanic over and out.

 

[sqznby]

I am replacing it and I have not removed the old one yet

Unfortunately, there is no room for anything to reach the head of the bolt. If you zoom in on the second picture you can see where I have to get to. Not the most convenient location. Why couldn't the top side strip instead haha.

The only bit that fits is a T20 torx bit which is very thin. A 1/4" driver bit will not fit to engage inside the head, it's too fat.

Haha I appreciate you chiming in.

 

[blackwire]

Is there anyway you could get some vise grips/locking pliers on the screw?

 

[sqznby]

Absolutely no room at all.

I rotated the pictures (first 2 pictures) to get a better idea of where the screw is located. Second pic is zoomed in and you can see via the mirror (I've been using two mirrors to see) that I'm using to see what I'm doing haha.
I had to unbolt the windshield washer reservoir and move it forward to access the screws.
The last two pictures are a top view standing right over it, last pic is zoomed in again to show the accessibility to the culprit.

 

[ptabatcher]

What about something like the Grip Edge or Mac RBRT?

RPT Star Driver Set - 9-Pc 1/4" Drive

GripEdge Tools Replaces Standard Star Tools - Patented With Unique Bi-Directional Design That Enables The Loosening & Tightening of New and Damaged Star Fasteners

www.gripedgetools.com

1/4" Drive R.B.R.T.™ Star Driver - T20

1/4" Drive R.B.R.T.™ Star Driver - T20

www.mactools.com

if it’s totally rounded, would a Hex RBRT or grip edge work?

 

[pelletman]

Might be able to get it turning with an air hammer and chisel, also might destroy whatever is behind it

 

[alfadan]

I think you're going to have to drill the head off or break the brake lines and take the whole thing out. That's all I got.

 

[Rusted Nut]

61980 Stripped Screw Extractor Set, 10pc.

Six Lobed Spiral Bits are Designed to Remove Rounded or Stripped Fasteners with Internal Drive Heads.

www.lislecorp.com

 

[Junker]

I am replacing it and I have not removed the old one yet

Unfortunately, there is no room for anything to reach the head of the bolt. If you zoom in on the second picture you can see where I have to get to. Not the most convenient location. Why couldn't the top side strip instead haha.

The only bit that fits is a T20 torx bit which is very thin. A 1/4" driver bit will not fit to engage inside the head, it's too fat.

Haha I appreciate you chiming in.

The tension is held by the head.

Unless it's seized from rust, which doesn't appear to be the case, all you need to do is undermine it.

Long chisel. Dremel. Get something under it and break it loose that way. Should just turn out, maybe with some spray

 

[sqznby]

What about something like the Grip Edge or Mac RBRT?

RPT Star Driver Set - 9-Pc 1/4" Drive

GripEdge Tools Replaces Standard Star Tools - Patented With Unique Bi-Directional Design That Enables The Loosening & Tightening of New and Damaged Star Fasteners

www.gripedgetools.com

1/4" Drive R.B.R.T.™ Star Driver - T20

1/4" Drive R.B.R.T.™ Star Driver - T20

www.mactools.com

if it’s totally rounded, would a Hex RBRT or grip edge work?

If they made 2" long impact RBRT bits, I'd be all over that set haha. Unfortunately I don't have enough room to put a bit in a socket to access the screw. There's literally no room, *****.
Thanks for the suggestion, I appreciate it.

Might be able to get it turning with an air hammer and chisel, also might destroy whatever is behind it

Not possible, if there is anything this is lacking it is space to get anything to access the head of the screw also it is so small it would damage it on impact. I don't necessarily care about destroying the black piece but I cannot damage the aluminum block at all.
Though I do have a pencil grinder attachment for a Dremel but I don't have a Dremel haha

I think you're going to have to drill the head off or break the brake lines and take the whole thing out. That's all I got.

I was thinking I can drill the head off and may possibly go that route, but I cannot break the hardlines.
I appreciate it man, thank you

 

[sqznby]

61980 Stripped Screw Extractor Set, 10pc.

Six Lobed Spiral Bits are Designed to Remove Rounded or Stripped Fasteners with Internal Drive Heads.

www.lislecorp.com

If they were 2" long, I'd get them. Unfortunately they are too short and a socket will not fit where they have to go.
Appreciate it though, thank you

The tension is held by the head.

Unless it's seized from rust, which doesn't appear to be the case, all you need to do is undermine it.

Long chisel. Dremel. Get something under it and break it loose that way. Should just turn out, maybe with some spray

Good call. You know, now that you bring it up. I may put the top screws back in with a little bit of tension on them to see if that will release the lower one. I have been spraying it and I did spray it before calling it a night. I will put the two top screws in in the morning and see what happens. Rookie mistake by taking each screw out before loosening all of them first.
There's no room under it or access to it from underneath it's the metal structure of the car.
Appreciate the info, Thank you

 

[DGersic]

Can you get one of those external grip bolt removers on the head, maybe drive it with a bit ratchet or something like that. Low clearance areas **** to work in.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/VG_394002

You may need to make a tool to get that bolt out.

 

[DGersic]

If they were 2" long, I'd get them. Unfortunately they are too short and a socket will not fit where they have to go.
Appreciate it though, thank you



Good call. You know, now that you bring it up. I may put the top screws back in with a little bit of tension on them to see if that will release the lower one. I have been spraying it and I did spray it before calling it a night. I will put the two top screws in in the morning and see what happens. Rookie mistake by taking each screw out before loosening all of them first.
There's no room under it or access to it from underneath it's the metal structure of the car.
Appreciate the info, Thank you

Those look like 1/4” bit drive? If so, put a bit extension on one and you have your 2” length.

 

[sqznby]

Can you get one of those external grip bolt removers on the head, maybe drive it with a bit ratchet or something like that. Low clearance areas **** to work in.

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/VG_394002

You may need to make a tool to get that bolt out.

Honestly not sure if it will fit around the head and I don't think they make them that small.

Those look like 1/4” bit drive? If so, put a bit extension on one and you have your 2” length.

Yes you are correct but the 2" long has a narrow shaft and head that fits the T20 bit size. It narrows down when it gets closer to the head of the screw so a standard 1/4 size bit will fit nor will an extension. It's pretty precarious location and position because of the lack of space and accessibility.
I appreciate your info though, thank you

 

[DGersic]

Honestly not sure if it will fit around the head and I don't think they make them that small.



Yes you are correct but the 2" long has a narrow shaft and head that fits the T20 bit size. It narrows down when it gets closer to the head of the screw so a standard 1/4 size bit will fit nor will an extension. It's pretty precarious location and position because of the lack of space and accessibility.
I appreciate your info though, thank you

Angle grinder and welder to make a tool to reach this thing?

 

[jsaw]

I used to work on similar ABS modules on GM trucks if You can, grind the head off using a carbide burr in an a die grinder it will relieve the tension on the screw . If You are replacing the computer module part anyway, it will not matter if you knick it while grinding the screw head off. After grinding the head off, slide the module off and remove the screw with needle nose pliers

 

[sqznby]

Angle grinder and welder to make a tool to reach this thing?

That is my next plan of action if I don't cut it off first haha

 

[sqznby]

I used to work on similar ABS modules on GM trucks if You an grind the head off using a carbide burr in an a die grinder it will relieve the tension on the head. If You are replacing the computer module part anyway, it will not matter if you knick it while grinding the screw head off. After grinding the head off, slide the module off and remove the screw with needle nose pliers

That is more than likely what I am going to do if I can access it with a die grinder. If not I have a pencil attachment for a Dremel but I don't have a Dremel haha. I'll go grab one tomorrow and just.
It's really tight and not easy to get to.

 

[sqznby]

I thought I'd drill out the head but can't get to it.
Can't access it in any way sooooo I have to remove my windshield washer tank, which is full of course.
This is fun.

 

[Notgrownup]

I recently needed to remove a fuel rail on my 21 Harley. I had no room to get a T30 in there. I had to get a 1/4” driveT30 bit and cut it to lenght. It was a beeeatch to get it out but I got it done. I had to insert it in with a needle nose plier and turn it with a small wrench. It didn’t have room for a gear wrench. Open end only. Took much patience.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

I can't tell from the pics how damaged the head of that is. If the head of the bolt is gone, can you remove the item and then get vise grips on the now headless bolt? If so, that would be my first choice - remove the head of the bolt - chisel, grinder, etc. My second choice, if there is any "tooth" left to that head, first soak the bolt in Kroil, then, after a period of soaking, clean the head with a shot of brake clean, then use some JB Weld to epoxy the appropriate driver bit into the bolt, after it cures for at least 12 hours, apply a wrench.

 

[sqznby]

I recently needed to remove a fuel rail on my 21 Harley. I had no room to get a T30 in there. I had to get a 1/4” driveT30 bit and cut it to lenght. It was a beeeatch to get it out but I got it done. I had to insert it in with a needle nose plier and turn it with a small wrench. It didn’t have room for a gear wrench. Open end only. Took much patience.

I feel your pain brother, this has taken my patience to a whole new level haha.

I can't tell from the pics how damaged the head of that is. If the head of the bolt is gone, can you remove the item and then get vise grips on the now headless bolt? If so, that would be my first choice - remove the head of the bolt - chisel, grinder, etc. My second choice, if there is any "tooth" left to that head, first soak the bolt in Kroil, then, after a period of soaking, clean the head with a shot of brake clean, then use some JB Weld to epoxy the appropriate driver bit into the bolt, after it cures for at least 12 hours, apply a wrench.

The head was damaged enough to spin the t20 bit inside of it, it wouldn't engage at all.
Huh, never really thought about the JB Weld idea, that's actually a really good idea if it would hold.

Next post will show the results of what I did.

 

[sqznby]

So, end result was to take a shorty 1/4 drill bit and drill the head out then followed with a larger shorty 3/8" bit at whatever angle I could fit it in there because the 1/4" bit walked on me and left half the head, yay.
End result was what seems to be a seized screw, b***h didn't want to move that's for sure. They are both in the same orientation.
It took a few more squirts of Houdini a tap with a brass bar and then about 37 turns with my smallest pair of vise grips, and it finally came out.
I chased the hole with another screw and the amount of junk that came out of the hole was pretty shocking. I may throw a dab of anti-seize on there just for good measure "just in case" I have to do this again haha.

I appreciate the thoughts and opinions from everyone.
Have a great Sunday

 

[pelletman]

Congratulations on your victory! Persistence is the only talent

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

If it makes you feel better, yesterday I went to fill the front diff on a RZR and the previous ***** tightened the fill plug so tight it stripped. This was an 8mm hex (so not small). Luckily, I was able to measure the required liquid and fill it through a breather line. Next time I have to pull the diff I'll weld a nut on it and extract it.

 

[sqznby]

Congratulations on your victory! Persistence is the only talent

Appreciate that bud That's the truth haha

If it makes you feel better, yesterday I went to fill the front diff on a RZR and the previous ***** tightened the fill plug so tight it stripped. This was an 8mm hex (so not small). Luckily, I was able to measure the required liquid and fill it through a breather line. Next time I have to pull the diff I'll weld a nut on it and extract it.

Haha too funny, well not really but you made me chuckle.
If you were local, I'd drop by to give you a hand.

 

[pelletman]

If it makes you feel better, yesterday I went to fill the front diff on a RZR and the previous ***** tightened the fill plug so tight it stripped. This was an 8mm hex (so not small). Luckily, I was able to measure the required liquid and fill it through a breather line. Next time I have to pull the diff I'll weld a nut on it and extract it.

That is why you take the fill plug out first! I think we have all been there

 

[Bigblue&Goldie]

That is why you take the fill plug out first! I think we have all been there

I had that very thought right after it stripped. I would've never guessed an 8mm could strip out on a fill plug!

 

[pelletman]

I had that very thought right after it stripped. I would've never guessed an 8mm could strip out on a fill plug!

Well, they can be tight and rusty. You should also clean it out before you stick the tools in there