Happy New Year guys. I am working on a car project were I need to cut a precise 60mm hole in a piece of plastic dashboard material. I am stuggling to find a hole saw blade that is not coarse or made for wood or metal. Any thoughts on how I could do this. Thank you!
Cutting 60mm Hole in Plastic
- Thread starter DesertG
- Start date
Use a wood one but cut in reverse. I’d also highly suggest using a piece of metal bar stock (pre-drilled) for keeping the pilot bit centered so it doesn’t walk on you. If your piece isn’t flat then I’d suggest shaping a piece of hardwood and do the same thing.
wssix99
Well-known member
I use step drills for stuff like this. They make bits up to your size. Lots of choices...
Innovate1
Well-known member
It would be helpful to have more information. For example, is the piece flat? How thick? A picture would be good. Some details on the plastic - hardness, etc. Hard brittle plastics are more likely to crack so must be approached less aggressively.
Oh heck ya, that’s the best advice you’ll get. I had no idea they make them that big now.
Unless the plastic is thicker then the steps....
manwithtools
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Being plastic, even that won't matter if there is access to the back side.
Maybe....
Unless its too thick! Then you end up with a 60mm step in each face, and a 58mm through hike. If you drill deeper it opens to the next step size.
There's reasons why a few people have asked for more details.
Here's a partial list of ways to cut the hole:
- Holesaw
- Knife
- Step drill
- Circle cutter
- Jigsaw
- Body saw
- Router and template
- Lightsaber
- Smaller drill, saw etc. then sanding drum to final size
- Laser
- Forstner bit
- Boring bar
- Cnc
- Etc.
Miss the Pontiacs
Well-known member
Couldn't you just turn it over and drill through the back.
johnre
Well-known member
If you have a set, use a forstner bit.
If you don't, you probably don't want to buy a 60 mm (closest English size: 2 3/8) for just for this application; you'll get sticker shock.
Next choice in order of decreasing cleanliness and decreasing cost: hole saw.
If you don't, you probably don't want to buy a 60 mm (closest English size: 2 3/8) for just for this application; you'll get sticker shock.
Next choice in order of decreasing cleanliness and decreasing cost: hole saw.
No. Maybe. Depends.
Say the material is 5/8", and the steps are 1/4". If you drill to 60mm in the front, and then 60mm in the back, then you have an 1/8 on the middle that is too small. Maybe the backside can tolerate being a larger hole?
manwithtools
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Yes, that was my point in post # 9.
manwithtools
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Or you could measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk and cut it with an axe
manwithtools
ALLIANCE MEMBER
In plastic?
Maybe, if it's hard/brittle.In plastic?
OP mentions having a hard time finding a non-course holesaw...this is about the only option I can think of. For under $10 I'd try it, odds are it plugs up.
I'd probably also have already drilled the hole by now
Black300zx
Well-known member
We're 16 replies deep and no one has suggested Oxy/Acetylene yet. I'm disappointed.Or you could measure it with a micrometer, mark it with chalk and cut it with an axe
Details on what's being mounted and how much cosmetic overhang there is would be helpful. 60mm is a fairly common size for aftermarket gauges, so I'm guessing that's what might be going on here. If that's the case, a 2 3/8" hole saw should do just fine and leave a hole that is only about 0.01in too large.
ZRX61
Well-known member
That.
Leaflessshadetree
Well-known member
If possible clamp it between two pieces of wood and use a hole saw.
Gogo300
Well-known member
Since this is GJ, op should buy a cnc router and some cam software to cut the hole.
manwithtools
ALLIANCE MEMBER
nadogail
Well-known member
Mark a smaller circle and drill a bunch of closely spaced holes on your marked line, then clean it all up with a file.
manwithtools
ALLIANCE MEMBER
ZRX61
Well-known member
or a spindle sander.
a hole saw in reverse as mentioned. once you get a score mark you may be able to switch back to forward . a bit more info or a pic of what you're working on might help too
What a thread!
If it's somewhat rigid, someone mentioned a hole saw but cutting in reverse. Works like a champ.
If it's a bit thin or flimsy, someone else mentioned clamping it between two pieces of wood and using a hole saw. Works like a champ.
If it's somewhat rigid, someone mentioned a hole saw but cutting in reverse. Works like a champ.
If it's a bit thin or flimsy, someone else mentioned clamping it between two pieces of wood and using a hole saw. Works like a champ.
Zeke
Well-known member
2.325" is slightly oversized. If that would work there are a lot of cheap door lock boring bits available with the mandrel included. If you knocked the set off a little with a file: one, it won't grab, and 2, it would be very close to 60mm.
2 -1/8 or 2.125 is the common hole saw size for door locks/passage sets
Zeke
Well-known member
Correct. I should know that having installed 100's. Confused that with backset. Sorry, but glad you caught it.
johnre
Well-known member
Not sure where you got 2.325" from.
I recommended 2 3/8", which is 2.375" or 60.33 mm. OP didn't specify tolerance, but I would assume if this is plastic, the 0.33 mm / 13 mils over isn't a big deal.
Gozo
Well-known member
Not knowing the thickness, type, shape, or hardness of the plastic; I’ll toss this one into the mix: Diamond hole saw
I’ve done lots of tile work and have a set of these. Have used them for non-tiles stuff and some acrylic sheets. Just used the drill press on slowest setting and took my time. More like sanding through that drilling.
I’ve done lots of tile work and have a set of these. Have used them for non-tiles stuff and some acrylic sheets. Just used the drill press on slowest setting and took my time. More like sanding through that drilling.
Zeke
Well-known member
typo.
ambenz
Well-known member
...you should have mentioned you wanted to do it on the cheap!
$35 step bit, $300 router....how much do you want to spend on this hole?
I say regular old big drill bit backed by a scrap flat wood board...if you have a cheap round file, file to spec.
Man, these people love to spend our money!
$35 step bit, $300 router....how much do you want to spend on this hole?
I say regular old big drill bit backed by a scrap flat wood board...if you have a cheap round file, file to spec.
Man, these people love to spend our money!
steel 35
Well-known member
12 gauge @ 10.375”