Pliers for auto electrical connectors?

[Uncle Ben]

What kind of pliers do you like to use for un-clicking auto electrical connectors?
Do you have any specialty pliers or dedicated pliers that you have found to be the perfect solution for releasing the tabs on electrical connectors?

I seem to struggle with getting harness connectors off more and more these days, so I would like to have a set of pliers or two that work well for just this purpose.

Thanks!

 

[zmotorsports]

I have had a pair of Kyoto connector pliers for several years now and they have worked ok.

I recently purchased a pair of Lisle 37960 and they work fantastic.


I have even tested them out by grabbing the connectors from various different angles, such as from the front and pushing the connector away from the component.


and they work every bit as well as they do pulling the connector.



Although the Lisle connector pliers don't have as good a "feel" as say a Snap-on, Proto, Knipex or any high quality tool manufacturer, they do work as advertised. They just seem to lack in the quality feel department to me.

 

[dnschmidt]

The boys at Jersey Discount Tools are selling the Lisle for $34.00 with free shipping. I've just ordered one.

 

[AffableCurmudgeon]

Wow, never knew these existed! I am going to get one. Sometimes, those connectors are a pain to disconnect.

 

[Buckaroo5]

The boys at Jersey Discount Tools are selling the Lisle for $34.00 with free shipping. I've just ordered one.

I might do the same but unfamiliar with Jersey Discount Tools. Not many folks carry these pliers. These folks legit?

 

[dnschmidt]

I might do the same but unfamiliar with Jersey Discount Tools. Not many folks carry these pliers. These folks legit?

Absolutely, The owner is sort of nuts but they're good people.

 

[AffableCurmudgeon]

a bit cheaper, $21 plus $9 in shipping At link below. Also my local oriellys has it in stock for 29.99. I may go there.

Lisle 37960 Electrical Disconnect Pliers

Lisle 37960 Electrical Disconnect Pliers, 8". Great savings and get fast delivery when you order online at ToolDiscounter.com. In stock, fast shipping!

www.tooldiscounter.com

 

[2ndGearRubber]

In addition to pliers, use curved picks, 90 degree picks, and pocket screwdrivers. Just lift the locking tab up and then pull it off.

 

[zmotorsports]

In addition to pliers, use curved picks, 90 degree picks, and pocket screwdrivers. Just lift the locking tab up and then pull it off.

Agreed. I also purchased a pair of these OTC connector tools about 5 years or so ago and quite like them as they lift the locking tabs just enough to clear the raised lock and aid in pulling the connector free without raising it so much that the tab may break off.

My particular ones are made by OTC, part # 4460, but I believe there are several vendors that market the exact same tool.

 

[Gutman]

Timely thread. I'll be checking these out and following.

I've found myself struggling at times, trying to figure out how to get some sort of automotive connector apart. Even more challenging when some of it is obscured and I can't see how it latches.

Would anyone be able to point to some references that might id the types of connectors or show images, or show how to disconnect?

 

[KnurledNut]

Agreed. I also purchased a pair of these OTC connector tools about 5 years or so ago and quite like them as they lift the locking tabs just enough to clear the raised lock and aid in pulling the connector free without raising it so much that the tab may break off.

My particular ones are made by OTC, part # 4460, but I believe there are several vendors that market the exact same tool.

Lisle 13120 is the double-sided version:

 

[richfinn]

Counterintuitive I know but try and push the plug toward the component before pressing the lock tab, the seals swell up over time with oil vapour and can make it very difficult to release the lock tabs.

I sometimes hose them down with contact cleaner/brake clean to remove any crud/grit if they are particularly nasty

I use long picks and the snap-on mini pry bar, I also have some Knipex pliers which are supposedly for VW spark plug leads (they look like hose pliers) which work pretty good (also good for those plastic quick release fuel line and engine breathers)

VW/Audi sell a special release tool for their connections which is nice if you have to reach into awkward spots.

 

[zendriver]

Look like good tools

Biggest problem I have with electrical connectors, is figuring out how they they operate, especial with limited vision contrast.

Squeeze? pry? squeeze here then pry there? Twist? CW or CCW?

Usually the hardest part of any job for me.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Counterintuitive I know but try and push the plug toward the component before pressing the lock tab, the seals swell up over time with oil vapour and can make it very difficult to release the lock tabs.

I sometimes hose them down with contact cleaner/brake clean to remove any crud/grit if they are particularly nasty

I use long picks and the snap-on mini pry bar, I also have some Knipex pliers which are supposedly for VW spark plug leads (they look like hose pliers) which work pretty good (also good for those plastic quick release fuel line and engine breathers)

VW/Audi sell a special release tool for their connections which is nice if you have to reach into awkward spots.

This is key for the connectors Bosch makes with the stupid rectangular tab.

 

[Steve_P]

Dunno, but when the connector is partially/mostly hidden, I can never tell if I need to push down or lift up on the tab. Is there an easy way to tell??? This is such a simple concept, but it kills me when I can't figure it out and waste 5 minutes struggling.

I have the Japanese connector pliers that are similar to the red handled KTC, but with a ghetto blue plastic grip. And they work well, but sometimes I need a right angle set of tongs for access. I bought a set of Lisle that I think are for fuel line connectors with a right angle but haven't needed them yet.

 

[Wrench97]

This is key for the connectors Bosch makes with the stupid rectangular tab.

But they've been around since square back VW fuel injection in the 60's.......................................

 

[charbar]

Pushing in helps a lot.

Ive never used the pliers. I dont really see how they would be much of an advantage but then again my hands hurt so bad anymore maybe they would. Most of the time I am using a pick and air hose to get all the dirt/gravel out of the connector and then use the pick to release the locking part of the connector instead of using the 'push down' part. Pliers aren't going to do much when you are just bending plastic because the connector is full of ****.

 

[charbar]

Dunno, but when the connector is partially/mostly hidden, I can never tell if I need to push down or lift up on the tab. Is there an easy way to tell??? This is such a simple concept, but it kills me when I can't figure it out and waste 5 minutes struggling.

Unless you are are familiar with what type of connectors a certain vehicle uses and where they use them there really isn't a good way to tell. I do by feel a lot of times if Im working on something odd but unless you are unplugging connectors for a living then that isn't going to get you anywhere.

A small mirror and a light are your friend in that situation.

Don't forget about the safety lock thingy on certain ones shoved in there too that needs released before the connector can be unhooked.

 

[M6erfan]

My biggest problem is the connector body turning to dust as soon as I put the smallest amount of force on it

 

[2ndGearRubber]

Unless you are are familiar with what type of connectors a certain vehicle uses and where they use them there really isn't a good way to tell. I do by feel a lot of times if Im working on something odd but unless you are unplugging connectors for a living then that isn't going to get you anywhere.

A small mirror and a light are your friend in that situation.

Don't forget about the safety lock thingy on certain ones shoved in there too that needs released before the connector can be unhooked.

These people making safety locks need beaten. No reason we need a blind purge valve connector I need to figure out which way this pointless locking tab works. The locking tab which prevents the actual locking tab from moving..... when was this a problem that needed corrected?

My biggest problem is the connector body turning to dust as soon as I put the smallest amount of force on it

As someone who touches lots of connectors, this is also ********. Well what really ***** is trying to get replacement connectors. I typically just de-pin and move the OE wiring to a new body. But it can be a real pain trying to get even basic connectors. Local prices can be nuts, I remember when the chevy cruze coil pack connectors were like $40 my cost. Obscene when amazon sold them for $15.

What's really weird, is the stock local places keep. Toyota coil connectors break all the time, very brittle. And one part number covers nearly 20 years worth of coils. And yet I need to wait for a hub-run for a new connector? Weird.

 

[charbar]

These people making safety locks need beaten. No reason we need a blind purge valve connector I need to figure out which way this pointless locking tab works. The locking tab which prevents the actual locking tab from moving..... when was this a problem that needed corrected?

Never a problem in all my years of wrenching

Had to do a Banks air horn/intake heater on a Ram Cummins today.......there may be a few red pieces of plastic still laying on the shop floor from that one

 

[KnurledNut]

What's really weird, is the stock local places keep. Toyota coil connectors break all the time, very brittle. And one part number covers nearly 20 years worth of coils. And yet I need to wait for a hub-run for a new connector? Weird.

I see 2UZ-FE entered the chat.

 

[M6erfan]

As someone who touches lots of connectors, this is also ********.

This is by far the biggest reason I'm hesitant to work on friends or neighbors, etc. vehicles. I just know that as soon as I start unplugging **** on that 20 year old, never garaged Nissan, there's a good chance some plastic thing is going to break/snap. If I do take something on, it comes with clear warning about possible issues. Not just connectors but anything engine compartment plastic (like vacuum hoses, clips, etc.).

 

[noid]

I have had a pair of Kyoto connector pliers for several years now and they have worked ok.

I recently purchased a pair of Lisle 37960 and they work fantastic.


I have even tested them out by grabbing the connectors from various different angles, such as from the front and pushing the connector away from the component.


and they work every bit as well as they do pulling the connector.



Although the Lisle connector pliers don't have as good a "feel" as say a Snap-on, Proto, Knipex or any high quality tool manufacturer, they do work as advertised. They just seem to lack in the quality feel department to me.

So here's the thing... I had the Merry hs175c

I have had a pair of Kyoto connector pliers for several years now and they have worked ok.

I recently purchased a pair of Lisle 37960 and they work fantastic.


I have even tested them out by grabbing the connectors from various different angles, such as from the front and pushing the connector away from the component.


and they work every bit as well as they do pulling the connector.



Although the Lisle connector pliers don't have as good a "feel" as say a Snap-on, Proto, Knipex or any high quality tool manufacturer, they do work as advertised. They just seem to lack in the quality feel department to me.

So here's the thing, I had the Merry version (HS175C), and loved it so much I figured I had to also get the Kyoto.

Big mistake, the Merry version is so much better; the length of the 'fingers', the size of the head, the angle, etc.

Consider getting the Merry, its what the Kyoto should have been.

 

[Qualitytools]

I have the Merry and just received my Lisle.

i have had the connector breakdown while using the Merry in an engine bay from heat Cycling.

 

[noid]

i have had the connector breakdown while using the Merry in an engine bay from heat Cycling.

This is a good point, had that happen also. I have to remind myself to throttle the hand pressure as not to over squeeze.

I'll probably also pick up the Lisle, but first impression is that the depressor side might be a bit bulky for some connectors I encounter, so the merry and lisle will probably have their respective uses.

I find that some connectors I really don't need to depress as much as I need a nice wide grip on both sides. Almost like if the Lisle pliers had the wide pattern on both sides... that would be nice.

 

[shibertus]

Toyota coil connectors break all the time, very brittle

I see 2UZ-FE entered the chat.

The trick I've found with these is to use a pick to lift up the locking end of the tab, rather than pushing down on the other end. Haven't broken one since I started doing this.

 

[toddmorr]

What's really weird, is the stock local places keep. Toyota coil connectors break all the time, very brittle. And one part number covers nearly 20 years worth of coils. And yet I need to wait for a hub-run for a new connector? Weird.

broke a coil connector on an RX350 the other day, had to wait several days for the dealer to get a few in stock. A dealer. Unbelievable.
and I'm in metro Wash DC.

 

[Steve_P]

These people making safety locks need beaten. No reason we need a blind purge valve connector I need to figure out which way this pointless locking tab works. The locking tab which prevents the actual locking tab from moving..... when was this a problem that needed corrected?



As someone who touches lots of connectors, this is also ********. Well what really ***** is trying to get replacement connectors. I typically just de-pin and move the OE wiring to a new body. But it can be a real pain trying to get even basic connectors. Local prices can be nuts, I remember when the chevy cruze coil pack connectors were like $40 my cost. Obscene when amazon sold them for $15.

What's really weird, is the stock local places keep. Toyota coil connectors break all the time, very brittle. And one part number covers nearly 20 years worth of coils. And yet I need to wait for a hub-run for a new connector? Weird.

Well, since you do this every day and it also drives you crazy, I now feel better

I have a 5 speed MT Tacoma, and in order to remove the transmission there is a harness connector on the top of the transmission. You can't see it, only barely feel it. I spent probably 10 minutes trying to get it unhooked and just gave up and removed the harness clamp, also on the top of the transmission, with a stubby box end wrench, which again probably took 10 minutes. Of course, after I got the harness loose and could see the connector it took 5 seconds to see how to unhook it. I think that was my worst connector experience, but they can be a huge PITA for me.

Ok, I have the Merry pliers shown above with the blue grips. When they fit, they are handier that you could imagine if you haven't used them before.

 

[snickers muncher]

Usually the hardest part of any job for me.

You ain't lying. When I had to replace the speed sensor on the wife's Dodge Caliber it took longer just to disconnect the old one under the hood than it did all other operations combined.

 

[noid]

I have had the connector breakdown while using the Merry in an engine bay from heat Cycling.

This is a good point, had that happen also. I have to remind myself to throttle the hand pressure as not to over squeeze.

I'll probably also pick up the Lisle, but first impression is that the depressor side might be a bit bulky for some connectors I encounter, so the merry and lisle will probably have their respective uses.

I find that some connectors I really don't need to depress as much as I need a nice wide grip on both sides. Almost like if the Lisle pliers had the wide pattern on both sides... that would be nice.

I got to considering dental plier; and behold, crown removal pliers, soft textured grips on both sides.

Looks like they can be had in an assortment of orientations.

 

[Steve_P]

These are the Lisle right angle pliers that I bought for connectors. I haven't needed to use them yet...

Amazon.com

 

[2ndGearRubber]

The trick I've found with these is to use a pick to lift up the locking end of the tab, rather than pushing down on the other end. Haven't broken one since I started doing this.

Usually when I break them, it's on install. That's become my method as well to remove them, or any connector that feels weak.

 

[richfinn]

This is an expensive version of the VW/Audi disconnect tool (you can buy knock offs for under $10)

Basically it pulls the lock tab and the main body of the connector at the same time, can save dismantling a lot of other stuff just to get access to an awkward plug

HAZET Unlocking tool 4675-2

HAZET Unlocking tool ∙ plug connections ∙ VAG 4675-2 ∙ 191 mm

handtools-from-germany.com

 

[MongoTA]

I recently purchased a pair of Lisle 37960 and they work fantastic.

If I'm reading your post and photos correctly, this looks eerily like the Lisle? Or is this a disgustingly inexpensive knock-off?

Lisle knock off?

Yay? Nay?

With all that written? I can't believe I was not even aware that pliers like these existed. I've struggled with electrical connectors, I usually use picks. I never even thought "disconnect pliers" existed. Sheesh.

 

[dscheidt]

What's really weird, is the stock local places keep. Toyota coil connectors break all the time, very brittle. And one part number covers nearly 20 years worth of coils. And yet I need to wait for a hub-run for a new connector? Weird.

this tells me no one replaces them. maybe they don't break them (ha ha), but maybe they glue them together or use a zip tie or something?

 

[Jeepster04]

Scary timing. An add popped up for these things on my phone today... I too had no idea they existed..

 

[richfinn]

I'm not 100% condoning this bodge as it makes it a bit of a PITA for the next guy, but in a pinch it does work.

 

[2ndGearRubber]

this tells me no one replaces them. maybe they don't break them (ha ha), but maybe they glue them together or use a zip tie or something?

RTV, Zip ties..... they're a bunch of animals.

 

[dnschmidt]

RTV, Zip ties..... they're a bunch of animals.

Probably true Scott but as Lee J. Cobb told Clint Eastwood in Cogan’s Bluff: "A man's got to do what a man's got to do right Tex."