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Picked up a Baldor 612R Bench Grinder (FREE)

16again

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Picked this guy up this morning. Price was right. FREE
I gave my buddy the wire wheel. Works great, takes a bit to spin down after shutting it off. (y) Needs an on/off switch and a good cleaning.
No idea if it's USA or ???? I see a small bit of red paint on the very back.
Any idea of original color, if it's a USA model, switch availability?
Going to clean it up and use.
Bottom of metal tag does say USA

Thanks
Bob
 

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seber

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I don't believe any Baldor grinders were ever imported. Color can be any of several. I just paint them all charcoal gray. It looks very professional and not as boring as machine gray.
 
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16again

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Almost certain it's USA made and originally would have been red. That's a good unit. Horsepower rating doesn't mean much on them because it always seems higher than the rating.
Thank you, It was definitely red. Started taking it apart and the back is red. (y)
Need to find a wiring diagram for it. I guess the switch went bad and they wired it to a regular wall switch.
Looked everywhere for about an hour, came up empty. I **** at the internet. :oops:
 

Nessism

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Why do you guys say red? I thought gray was the most common Baldor color?

Edit: okay, there appears to be a faint hit of red paint visible, but still?
 

seber

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Actually it's not. If you look, it has both terminals on one end, and not on the back like generics. Depending on housing space, a generic might work.
There is nothing inside that huge base but a start capacitor. Plenty of room. Also, lots of generic switches are made that way.
 
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16again

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Why do you guys say red? I thought gray was the most common Baldor color?

Edit: okay, there appears to be a faint hit of red paint visible, but still?
My limited understanding is that the 600 models (6") were red and are now discontinued. There is enough red on the unit to confirm red is the proper color. Only problem is you can't get Baldor red spray paint anywhere. :(
 
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16again

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Actually it's not. If you look, it has both terminals on one end, and not on the back like generics. Depending on housing space, a generic might work.
Here is the switch laying inside the base. I’ll get the identical switch. Can someone tell me which wires to use.
My ASSumption is the yellow and black?
Doesn’t matter which one goes where on the switch?
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16again

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Just cut into one of the wires going to the outlet.
Thats the yellow wire **** connected to the black wire.
I would expect that just cutting that wire and attaching both ends to the new toggle switch would be correct? I'm not a wiring guy. lol
 
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16again

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I started to clean it up using 80 grit synthetic hand grinder wheel. :oops: Since the housing is cast aluminum, I quickly abandoned that idea. Who has a good clean up recommendation for the exterior so I can prep it for paint without causing damage to it?

Thanks
 
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16again

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Found out the best way to clean this grinder up is by hand with a good wire brush. I don't have a way to sand blast so I'm improvising. Tried wire wheel and paint removal disc. Both ways sucked. :ROFLMAO:
Ordered the new switch, $60.00 o_O Proud of that NOS Baldor stuff.
Tomorrow, I hope to get it cleaned up and order bearings and if I can find the right cord actually for sale, I'll order that as well.

Start a new job on Thursday (was planning on relaxing as in semi retire for 2 years, but it only lasted 2 weeks) :LOL: so whatever I don't get to tomorrow, will have to wait for the weekend.
 
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16again

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Factory switch arrived today. #SP9017SP BALDOR.
I'm thinking of going with sealed bearings after looking at the hunks of hardened grease on the old bearings.
Thoughts on this?
 
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16again

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Got it disassembled. New switch is here. Ordered a 16ga power cord today. Going to pull the bearings tomorrow and order new sealed bearings to replace the open bearings. Have to order the rubber feet and get it painted. Hopefully reassemble it all next weekend.
 

WillyBoy

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Cleaning; hose it down with Krud Kutter in a spray bottle, then wipe down. It may dull the paint somewhat.
Yes about the bearings. When the oil finally evaporates from the grease, leaving the soapy base, the bearing won't last much longer. Any mass on the shaft with the bearing can mask how bad the bearing is. They shouldn't spin freely, that means no lubricant left. Once they're removed and they feel gritty when rotated, same thing. They're close to locking up. A locked up bearing will do one of two things, the inner race will start rotating on the shaft, wallowing a grove in the shaft, or the outer race will start rotating in the housing, basically doing the same thing.
It looks like a great find, nice going and good luck with it.
 

Jswain

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Red ScotchBrite by hand, then acetone or similar wipe before you paint would leave a nicely prepped surface
 
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16again

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Power cord came yesterday. Rubber feet on order. Pulled the old bearings off and ordered new ones.
Slowly moving forward.
 

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Nessism

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For $10 each, I don't blame you for changing the bearings. That said, could they have been cleaned and regreased? I'm asking because I recently salvaged a small Baldor buffer, which runs well, but it's at least 30 years old, and I'm quite sure the bearings could use some attention.
 
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16again

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For $10 each, I don't blame you for changing the bearings. That said, could they have been cleaned and regreased? I'm asking because I recently salvaged a small Baldor buffer, which runs well, but it's at least 30 years old, and I'm quite sure the bearings could use some attention.
One side was fine. The other side was borderline. It's apart, easier to replace them now.
 

Steve_P

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Nice job! What brand/PN wire wheel is that? I love how wide it is!

Why didn't you paint the base?
 
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16again

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16again

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So the (after market) eye shields that are "made for the 6" Baldor grinders", don't fit. Heck, not even close. :rolleyes: Bit the bullet and ordered the factory eye shields. Of course my luck, back ordered for 2 weeks.
These things are going back.
 
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