ntsqd
Well-known member
Seeing that crush sleeve I'm hoping that you have a solid pinion bearing spacer?
rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1
- Thread starter rattle_snake
- Start date
Justin, reach out to Todd and TCE again. He, rich Bogart and myself are the guys that developed the 15” conversion package for the modern dodge stuff, he might be able to help you out. Going 15” was a total game changer for us.
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
Please explain further. I get CS is one use only, but it is not needed to set up pinion depth. I hope to not be back into this diff again.
Thanks Cam. So a rotor/caliper swap to clear a smaller wheel. Interesting.
Yup and in our case shorter swaybar endlinks and toe link arm bushings so those fit within the ID of the wheel. If there’s a solution out there for your ride, Todd will know the details. Tell’m I said hey.
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
Backpack sprayer of 2016 vintage started to leak under pressure. Not a fluid you want in contact with. Bought a rebuild kit and broke it down for install.
Clamping to table made one-man reassembly much easier.
Had to corrected the location of the pump handle to the other side for left use. Not sure why the ship them backwards. And further pimped out with upgraded strap/belt setup.
Clamping to table made one-man reassembly much easier.
Had to corrected the location of the pump handle to the other side for left use. Not sure why the ship them backwards. And further pimped out with upgraded strap/belt setup.
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
I'm glad that's in your possession and not mine...I'm allergic to backpack sprayers 
Really not sure how many miles I walked with one the summer I worked for the Kaufman Bros...but, I would guarantee it was measured in the hundreds of miles. I filled the damn thing so many times I didn't even have to measure the RoundUp towards the end.
Walking the fences and keeping the gravel clean around your ranch?
Really not sure how many miles I walked with one the summer I worked for the Kaufman Bros...but, I would guarantee it was measured in the hundreds of miles. I filled the damn thing so many times I didn't even have to measure the RoundUp towards the end.
Walking the fences and keeping the gravel clean around your ranch?
ntsqd
Well-known member
Use a solid spacer in the place of the crush sleeve for pinion bearing pre-load. The crush sleeves are notorious for crushing further under a hard launch. I've had two do this to me, and I don't drag race.
There are several ways to set up the solid spacer. The most CDO way is a spacer that is too long and use a surface grinder to gradually shorten it until you get the bearing pre-load desired. I've done 7 of the same, really obscure diff this way. Obscure as in those 7 represent 2.5% of all known to exist. This is the preferred method for setting up wheel bearing spacers because those get serviced more frequently and there are no shims to get mixed up. Just stamp them "L" & "R".
Few have the time for that. The rest of the world uses a spacer that is short and adjusts the shim stack to get the desired bearing pre-load. Should be able to find a solid spacer kit from several different suppliers. As I recall the 8.8 live axle uses the same spacer kit as a 9 inch. Presumably your IRS diff isn't any different, but I don't know that for sure.
There are several ways to set up the solid spacer. The most CDO way is a spacer that is too long and use a surface grinder to gradually shorten it until you get the bearing pre-load desired. I've done 7 of the same, really obscure diff this way. Obscure as in those 7 represent 2.5% of all known to exist. This is the preferred method for setting up wheel bearing spacers because those get serviced more frequently and there are no shims to get mixed up. Just stamp them "L" & "R".
Few have the time for that. The rest of the world uses a spacer that is short and adjusts the shim stack to get the desired bearing pre-load. Should be able to find a solid spacer kit from several different suppliers. As I recall the 8.8 live axle uses the same spacer kit as a 9 inch. Presumably your IRS diff isn't any different, but I don't know that for sure.
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
Thanks. I went ahead and ordered a 9" CS eliminator, will see how it works out.
I bought a cheap set of 2 piece bearing splitters, however they don't fit and will destroy bearing cage. I see most people just remove cage to use this type. I want the pinion bearing undamaged to use as a setup bearing. I looked at the clamshell type, expensive and won't work on my carrier bearings. Ford track-loc needs a 2 jaw so I ordered one of those. I machined one of the cheap splitters to fit under the cone but not mangle the shim. I would imagine a larger size would work OK.
Bearing came off very easy without any damage. No need for press.
I bought a cheap set of 2 piece bearing splitters, however they don't fit and will destroy bearing cage. I see most people just remove cage to use this type. I want the pinion bearing undamaged to use as a setup bearing. I looked at the clamshell type, expensive and won't work on my carrier bearings. Ford track-loc needs a 2 jaw so I ordered one of those. I machined one of the cheap splitters to fit under the cone but not mangle the shim. I would imagine a larger size would work OK.
Bearing came off very easy without any damage. No need for press.
ntsqd
Well-known member
The spacers take a little more time to set up, but I think they're worth it.
I made my friend some D60 set-up bearings by chucking the bearings in the lathe, covering the ways with two layers of red rags, and using a hand-held die grinder with a stone on the ID's while the lathe was spinning at about 250 RPM. Cleaning the 3 jaw afterwards took a little time, but I feel that I had little chance of moving the bores eccentrically.
I made my friend some D60 set-up bearings by chucking the bearings in the lathe, covering the ways with two layers of red rags, and using a hand-held die grinder with a stone on the ID's while the lathe was spinning at about 250 RPM. Cleaning the 3 jaw afterwards took a little time, but I feel that I had little chance of moving the bores eccentrically.
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
Hmm, lathe, good idea. The 8.8 only needs one pinion setup bearing. Carrier shims are outside of bearing. Existing pinion shim is 0.037", going to start with that.
SilverJimmy
Well-known member
Most guys use a three stone hone originally for brake wheel cylinders to get the small amount of clearance you’ve looking for.
ntsqd
Well-known member
I tried that, it was wonky at best. Hard to keep the stones from popping out of the bore if I was going to generate a consistent diameter ID. Perhaps in the hands of someone much more patient than I.....
Monza Harry
Well-known member
That sounds like an reasonably accurate approach to this situation! Just set the bearing on some parallels on the table of the drill press (mill if you have one) and set height and just let the machine do the work! Quill stops may be needed if the bearing is longer than the stones. Unfortunately not all drill presses have that much needed feature. Harry
EDIT: I should have mentioned the lathe as well!
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ntsqd
Well-known member
It was easy in the lathe, and while the dim change isn't huge it still took me quite a while to open the fit up to what is needed.
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
The bearing steel is hard as hell. I spent a fair amount of time to remove the small amount of material. I started on the lathe, then switched to a round drum sander that happened to be perfect size. It did OK, then finish out with brake hone. Did maybe 10 cycles of that including cooling of the inner race and test fit. I stopped with a snug fit that still requires light tapping to install.
At this point I think I have some clue of what I'm trying to accomplish, so bouncing around to solve the unknowns. 2 jaw puller arrived, a 10". A bit too large, an 8 would be better to remove the carrier bearings. The modified splitter won't fit as bearing it tight up against mating surface, hence the relief for the 2 jaw. None of my bearing installers were the right size, plus large hole, so I kludged together some pipe and a piece of plate to press against. I got puller TIGHT and it was just deforming the 1/4 plate. It popped apart and bent the cage, but not reusing those bearing anyhow.
It seemed appropriate to waste time playing with the lathe to make a one-off piece. I have some 1.75 round stock, lopped off a chunk. I cut a groove on the edge to keep it centered in the carrier axle bore
And a concentric 45* dimple for the puller snout.
The puller jaws were a rough and little to wide, required some 'adjustments' on belt grinder to fit properly in the recesses. Bearings came off easy enough, on to the next.
Crush sleeve eliminator arrived, will work fine on 8.8. Cut the locking section off the old pinion nut, so have everything to set pinion depth ready to go.
At this point I think I have some clue of what I'm trying to accomplish, so bouncing around to solve the unknowns. 2 jaw puller arrived, a 10". A bit too large, an 8 would be better to remove the carrier bearings. The modified splitter won't fit as bearing it tight up against mating surface, hence the relief for the 2 jaw. None of my bearing installers were the right size, plus large hole, so I kludged together some pipe and a piece of plate to press against. I got puller TIGHT and it was just deforming the 1/4 plate. It popped apart and bent the cage, but not reusing those bearing anyhow.
It seemed appropriate to waste time playing with the lathe to make a one-off piece. I have some 1.75 round stock, lopped off a chunk. I cut a groove on the edge to keep it centered in the carrier axle bore
And a concentric 45* dimple for the puller snout.
The puller jaws were a rough and little to wide, required some 'adjustments' on belt grinder to fit properly in the recesses. Bearings came off easy enough, on to the next.
Crush sleeve eliminator arrived, will work fine on 8.8. Cut the locking section off the old pinion nut, so have everything to set pinion depth ready to go.
TimeWarpF100
Well-known member
even my total worn out 1944 2N tractor is tractor therapy. Did not realize how much I needed it until after purchase. Quite a few months I was using it nearly daily. Now that the weather has turned cold with rain not so much . . Maybe it's raining because I have not ridden it in a whileI commented to my wife that I had some 'tractor therapy' doing the dirt work after a long day in the office.
She replied 'a therapy tractor? You need a therapy tractor?
I just said 'yes'.
ntsqd
Well-known member
One trick that may or may not be any help is to install the crush sleeve per normal procedure, and then remove it. It will 'grow' a little upon removal, but measuring it gets you pretty close to what the final spacer + shims thickness needs to be for your first try.
I have read that bearing splitters are designed to be used to separate a bearing from a shoulder where there is no edge of the inner race to grab. Lay the "chisel edges" of the splitter on the parting line and alternate tightening the bolts until the bearing moves off the shoulder.
I have never seen a splitter mfg say this as I've honestly never looked, so I dunno if it's true, but it does seem like it could work.
I have read that bearing splitters are designed to be used to separate a bearing from a shoulder where there is no edge of the inner race to grab. Lay the "chisel edges" of the splitter on the parting line and alternate tightening the bolts until the bearing moves off the shoulder.
I have never seen a splitter mfg say this as I've honestly never looked, so I dunno if it's true, but it does seem like it could work.
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
Will inherit one of those some day, a '38.
It's easy to just try the shims until preload is met with non-locking nut.
Yes they can be used for that, using correct size and/or after you hack off the cage. I back ground the one I bought but chisel edge didn't reach parting line. The Ford track loc case is intended to use a 2 jaw so I saw a tool purchase opportunity. It seems I have modified every puller I have.
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
2 more gears to go. Smooth and stable.
OutlawDrifter
Well-known member
Only 4k'ish RPM... you've still got some pedal left in 4th!
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
yes it pulls pretty good up to and past 100. At least the brakes are really good.
I wonder what it would run in 1/4 mile w/ and w/o nitrous. Math calcs say around 14.0@100 / 13.3@107 for 6000 lbs but big tires and terrible aero would probably be a second slower or more.
Working on with gear install as I have time. Got the pinion installed & preload set with CSE and old bearings, ready for initial pattern setup. Next step was installing the new carrier bearings in the press. So easy with the right tools.
The carrier case protrudes past bearing race so I harvested an inner race to finish it out.
Next is to install the ring gear, set backlash and start pattern check for pinion depth.
I wonder what it would run in 1/4 mile w/ and w/o nitrous. Math calcs say around 14.0@100 / 13.3@107 for 6000 lbs but big tires and terrible aero would probably be a second slower or more.
Working on with gear install as I have time. Got the pinion installed & preload set with CSE and old bearings, ready for initial pattern setup. Next step was installing the new carrier bearings in the press. So easy with the right tools.
The carrier case protrudes past bearing race so I harvested an inner race to finish it out.
Next is to install the ring gear, set backlash and start pattern check for pinion depth.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Nice job on the gear work Justin.
If you start doing many gears, may I suggest the bearing removal tool. While bearing separators work well in some applications, the parting seam between the bearing's inner race and the carrier are not always accessible to allow the bearing splitter to reach down into.
I purchased my bearing tool from Randy's Ring & Pinion about 7 years ago and wish I would have bought it 20-years ago, although it wasn't something that was available back then. It works that well though. I believe the one that Randy's sells is marketed by Yukon but there are several others now and they all pretty much are identical, just pick your color basically as I don't think any one is better than another.
As for setting up the crush sleeve eliminators (CSE), I have found that once I set it up to zero lash, subtracting about .002"-.003" will net you around 15-17 in/lbs. of preload. So if shooting for the 25 in/lb. neighborhood you may try removing .004" from zero lash for starters. I also don't use the CSE when mocking up the gear patterns as it won't change anything from having the bearings at zero lash.
The CSE kits generally come with a thick spacer as the main, then an assortment of various thickness shims to get you to your target. Juggling these around will generally let you hit your target. However, I've had situations where even a thou or so can go from being on the tight side of 25+ in/lbs. to the low side of 9~ish in/lbs. of preload. In those instances I take the shim and lightly sand one side. By only taking .0005" off it can net me the exact pinion preload (PPL) that I'm looking for.
If you start doing many gears, may I suggest the bearing removal tool. While bearing separators work well in some applications, the parting seam between the bearing's inner race and the carrier are not always accessible to allow the bearing splitter to reach down into.
I purchased my bearing tool from Randy's Ring & Pinion about 7 years ago and wish I would have bought it 20-years ago, although it wasn't something that was available back then. It works that well though. I believe the one that Randy's sells is marketed by Yukon but there are several others now and they all pretty much are identical, just pick your color basically as I don't think any one is better than another.
As for setting up the crush sleeve eliminators (CSE), I have found that once I set it up to zero lash, subtracting about .002"-.003" will net you around 15-17 in/lbs. of preload. So if shooting for the 25 in/lb. neighborhood you may try removing .004" from zero lash for starters. I also don't use the CSE when mocking up the gear patterns as it won't change anything from having the bearings at zero lash.
The CSE kits generally come with a thick spacer as the main, then an assortment of various thickness shims to get you to your target. Juggling these around will generally let you hit your target. However, I've had situations where even a thou or so can go from being on the tight side of 25+ in/lbs. to the low side of 9~ish in/lbs. of preload. In those instances I take the shim and lightly sand one side. By only taking .0005" off it can net me the exact pinion preload (PPL) that I'm looking for.
ntsqd
Well-known member
Might be out in esoteric land, but seeing ZM's pic above triggered a memory. The 8.8 carrier bearing caps are also known to stretch. I had this happen towing a Subaru on a U-Haul trailer ~500 miles. Did it on 395 between the KA desert and Carson City, NV with the then ~220k miles old 5.8L in the '96 Bronco. The fix/cure was that Mark Williams makes replacement billet steel bearing caps that are a LOT more stout. IF they'll fit your IRS diff they may just be a solid upgrade, but their install does require some careful measuring and milling. If you decide to do this I'm happy to send you the special tool supports that I made to level the caps in a mill vise.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Justin, another option is to use a differential cover with preload bolts that push in on the bearing caps after the cover is installed. I think I have a few pictures of both a GM squarebody truck as well as a Ford 8.8 using these covers in my thread. I've used several from manufactures such as Moser, B&M and I think even Summit Racing and Jeg's have house branded ones now. They work well to keep the carrier where it should be and provide just a little extra bit of support to the caps.
Also keep in mind that carrier preload is paramount in building not only a durable differential, but one that will provide a long and reliable life. That pinion bearing is always trying to push the ring gear away from it and if the carrier doesn't have the proper preload, under high torque conditions that ring gear can be pushed away just a few thousands and that is enough to make the teeth run up towards the face of the tooth, which is the weakest point, and not down near the flank where they were set up and designed to run.
I like to see another 5-7 in/lbs. of carrier preload (CPL) to my pinion preload (PPL) knowing I have proper carrier shims in place. If you follow my thread you will see how much of a proponent I am of using a case spreader to arrive at the proper carrier preload.
Also keep in mind that carrier preload is paramount in building not only a durable differential, but one that will provide a long and reliable life. That pinion bearing is always trying to push the ring gear away from it and if the carrier doesn't have the proper preload, under high torque conditions that ring gear can be pushed away just a few thousands and that is enough to make the teeth run up towards the face of the tooth, which is the weakest point, and not down near the flank where they were set up and designed to run.
I like to see another 5-7 in/lbs. of carrier preload (CPL) to my pinion preload (PPL) knowing I have proper carrier shims in place. If you follow my thread you will see how much of a proponent I am of using a case spreader to arrive at the proper carrier preload.
SilverJimmy
Well-known member
You might look into this, and it’s made in Arizona too!
I have one for my 65 Nova build, good quality.
I have one for my 65 Nova build, good quality.
ntsqd
Well-known member
Will any of these girdles work in the IRS application?
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Yes. I know they are offered for the Fifth and Sixth Gen Camaro's so I would assume they would be offered for late model Ford as well, althught that is just an assumption. The Camaro one I have actually looked into for a client's build so I know they are available for them.
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
Thanks Mike.
I almost bought a bearing tool like that. The cheap ones are about $120-180 now. My puller selection is weak and needed a 2 jaw anyhow. Could use a whole set really...
I spent about $200 on 4 tools for this job. Two pullers, setter and a in*lb torque wrench. Same price as the gear set. I've bought a fair amount of tools to make jobs more pleasant (or less miserable) from following along in your thread. Therapy tools you could say.
I did pretty much as you explained with CSE. The shims only allow steps of 0.004, so I sanded the big to achieve preload.
Thanks for sharing that. I went and measured the assembly, I get a CPL resistance increase of 5.5 in/lb.
Yes Ford racing makes an IRS heavy duty cover with cap supports for the 99-04 Cobra 8.8 IRS. Back when I did the initial IRS/suspension overhaul I went the steel cover brace route and it has held up. They won't work together. Can always use more speed parts
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Sounds like you are right on top of it Justin. I had no doubt.
Looking forward to seeing it completed and back on the road.
Looking forward to seeing it completed and back on the road.
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
Providing the illusion of it maybe.
Me too hasn't been driven in 3 months.
I thought I had the pattern good but turns out the pinion is too deep. Tried -0.004 and another -0.004 but not enough yet.
Me too hasn't been driven in 3 months.
I thought I had the pattern good but turns out the pinion is too deep. Tried -0.004 and another -0.004 but not enough yet.
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
Pinion bearings removed and housing cleaned up.
Pressing in new races
Made another toy on lathe to press bearing.
Pinion too deep so back apart for shim change. Glad I made the nice press tool above.
Pressing in new races
Made another toy on lathe to press bearing.
Pinion too deep so back apart for shim change. Glad I made the nice press tool above.
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
Finished up gear install. With original 0.036 pinion shim the pattern looked pretty good to me, but pinion is too deep. Indicator is flat on bottom.
I took out 0.004, still not enough. Then another 0.005, 0.027 shim and got somewhat of a conflicting results, drive toe, coast heel. Went another 5 but things getting worse, so back to the 0.027.
Drive could use another 1-2 to move center towards heel
But coast would get worse with pattern off tooth a touch, so 0.027 is best compromise.
With pinion shim chosen I fit the crush sleeve eliminator to get pinion preload I wanted, 21 in*lbs. Range is 16-28. Total with carrier is 28. Installed pinion lock nut and sealed up the case.
Reworked the clearance for exhaust on the diff brace. Ground to a more flowing shape to not look like as much of an after thought. Touched up paint, installed in car and did a test drive. Some noise on coast side, needs break in procedure.
Looking back my reading of the pattern didn't go so well. I ended up pressing off/on the new bearing instead of setup after I replaced the bearings and races. And I left the carrier preload shims in since it's not that hard to deal with them, to get pattern with final shim stack. It was a fun challenge and I'm happy to have the background knowledge, skill and tools to perform the job now.
I took out 0.004, still not enough. Then another 0.005, 0.027 shim and got somewhat of a conflicting results, drive toe, coast heel. Went another 5 but things getting worse, so back to the 0.027.
Drive could use another 1-2 to move center towards heel
But coast would get worse with pattern off tooth a touch, so 0.027 is best compromise.
With pinion shim chosen I fit the crush sleeve eliminator to get pinion preload I wanted, 21 in*lbs. Range is 16-28. Total with carrier is 28. Installed pinion lock nut and sealed up the case.
Reworked the clearance for exhaust on the diff brace. Ground to a more flowing shape to not look like as much of an after thought. Touched up paint, installed in car and did a test drive. Some noise on coast side, needs break in procedure.
Looking back my reading of the pattern didn't go so well. I ended up pressing off/on the new bearing instead of setup after I replaced the bearings and races. And I left the carrier preload shims in since it's not that hard to deal with them, to get pattern with final shim stack. It was a fun challenge and I'm happy to have the background knowledge, skill and tools to perform the job now.
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
Planning to go on a 3 day off road adventure (aka car camping) this weekend. In Florence area (Box/Martinez canyon) which is the closest place with decent trails to me. Should have around 7 trucks total. Plan to spend most of the daylight running trails. Then campfire, beverages and exaggerated stories.
Last attempt was a big letdown with transmission failure after a lot of work on the truck and camper. Prep for this trip is minimal, which is somewhat of the goal of this truck. I was able to install the bed platform and camper shell in 10 min. I spent some time previously organizing and finding totes or bins that fit nicely so most everything other than food is ready to go.
I did find a use for the one extra/unused switch in the camper and some left over red LEB strip. Pre-combat lighting.
Too bright so have a dimmer on the way.
Last attempt was a big letdown with transmission failure after a lot of work on the truck and camper. Prep for this trip is minimal, which is somewhat of the goal of this truck. I was able to install the bed platform and camper shell in 10 min. I spent some time previously organizing and finding totes or bins that fit nicely so most everything other than food is ready to go.
I did find a use for the one extra/unused switch in the camper and some left over red LEB strip. Pre-combat lighting.
Too bright so have a dimmer on the way.
PugetDude
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Hope you have a great trip. I'll wave at you as you pass milepost 100.Planning to go on a 3 day off road adventure (aka car camping) this weekend. In Florence area (Box/Martinez canyon) which is the closest place with decent trails to me. Should have around 7 trucks total. Plan to spend most of the daylight running trails. Then campfire, beverages and exaggerated stories.
Last attempt was a big letdown with transmission failure after a lot of work on the truck and camper. Prep for this trip is minimal, which is somewhat of the goal of this truck. I was able to install the bed platform and camper shell in 10 min. I spent some time previously organizing and finding totes or bins that fit nicely so most everything other than food is ready to go.
I did find a use for the one extra/unused switch in the camper and some left over red LEB strip. Pre-combat lighting.
Too bright so have a dimmer on the way.
plain2car
Well-known member
be safe!.. aaannnnddd... don't spend too much.. time in the "red light district" while out in the boonnies!!! I am already getting amped up about the return pics & stories from the trip!
I am already getting amped up about the return pics & stories from the trip!
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
Trail report from last weekend. Three day trip in Florence area, Box/Martinez. Had group of 7 rigs, the rest Toyotas on 35s or smaller. Mostly slow rocky washes. Truck is a pig on fuel. Getting about 3 MPG or less. If engine is running, it is consuming more than a little fuel. It does make the right noises and have plenty of torque. A doubler would still be nice.
Put a nice dent in front diff cover and smashed in the bedside toolbox a bit. Avoidable but fixable.
Need rock rails and underbelly skid. scrapped up 3 of the wheels and lots of brush pinstripes in paint.
Power door lock system has a broken/intermittent wire. Bumps on the trail started actuating it constantly so had to disable.
After 8 hours of wheelin the power steering got loud assist dropped. Fluid full, perhaps aerated. Was OK the next day. Cooler has poor airflow, need to relocated or add forced airflow.
Camped 2nd night at Ajax mine. Have all my camp stuff organized and down to bare minimum.
Finally got to use ARB pump and hose system. Aired all four 40s up from 9 psi to 25 in 3-4 min. Made it back without any major issues, but some work to do on the truck.
Put a nice dent in front diff cover and smashed in the bedside toolbox a bit. Avoidable but fixable.
Need rock rails and underbelly skid. scrapped up 3 of the wheels and lots of brush pinstripes in paint.
Power door lock system has a broken/intermittent wire. Bumps on the trail started actuating it constantly so had to disable.
After 8 hours of wheelin the power steering got loud assist dropped. Fluid full, perhaps aerated. Was OK the next day. Cooler has poor airflow, need to relocated or add forced airflow.
Camped 2nd night at Ajax mine. Have all my camp stuff organized and down to bare minimum.
Finally got to use ARB pump and hose system. Aired all four 40s up from 9 psi to 25 in 3-4 min. Made it back without any major issues, but some work to do on the truck.
Bigblue&Goldie
Well-known member
Badass pics man! Truck looks like it's in it's natural environment out there!
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Looks like a fun trip Justin and a hell of a torture test for the rig. Sometimes these are the best trips because they help identify sub-systems that need to be tweaked.