No, I volunteered for it, at their request. What should have been a fun year or two has already devolved into ****, some nasty things were hidden from me. My response has been to whack the hornets nest, then spray it with a flame thrower.Sounds like you missed the meeting and was voluntold that you're now the president.
No, I volunteered for it, at their request. What should have been a fun year or two has already devolved into ****, some nasty things were hidden from me. My response has been to whack the hornets nest, then spray it with a flame thrower.
That hopefully goes to the R terminal on the starter and is not needed with HEI. It was use for points when there was a resistor or resistor wire to the coil in run to keep it from burning up the points, full 12v while starter is engaged 6-8v in run.Out in the driveway - tried to figure out a no-run issue with a relative's 77 Corvette. It cranks and tries to run as long as the starter is engaged, but dies when the key is released. Wiring on this car is a mess! Found several splices in the alternator wires that were twisted and taped. Cleaned those up with crimp connectors and heat shrink. Hot wire to Bat on distributor connection has 12V with key in Run position, but still no run. There is a non original spliced in wire running from the hot wire to distributor coil to the starter solenoid, not sure what that is about. May be something in the HEI. It might help if I knew more about GM wiring. Still more wire chasing to do, but got interrupted by a T-storm that destroyed my 10' x 10' popup tent I was using for shade. To be continued...
Would have? It's still going on. I bet it lasts till Xmas.Sounds like it would have been entertaining to have been in the audience for that action.![]()
Thanks for the tips and info. While repairing splices, I cut the wire to the starter and tried to start it, but no spark. I didn't have time before the rain to check the voltage again at the Bat terminal, but will check it tomorrow. I'll also try the jumper tomorrow. It was fine till I replaced the power window motors, but I don't see how that could be connected to the new no start problem.That hopefully goes to the R terminal on the starter and is not needed with HEI. It was use for points when there was a resistor or resistor wire to the coil in run to keep it from burning up the points, full 12v while starter is engaged 6-8v in run.
You sure you have a hot wire at the HEI bat terminal when the Ign switch is in the run position?
I'd try a jumper from the battery + to the HEI + on the cap if it still doesn't start there is another issue somewhere else.
Guess that's why you were recruited. Folks knew you'd fix things. Always good to be recruited though!No, I volunteered for it, at their request. What should have been a fun year or two has already devolved into ****, some nasty things were hidden from me. My response has been to whack the hornets nest, then spray it with a flame thrower.

Check the brake line, etc for a leak, too. There could be a pinhole squirting the backing plate.Was under the F350 looking at something else & noticed this...
******
Thinking wheel cylinder, but odd that the fluid appears to be leaking from the top. At least I have all the tools needed to work on drum brakes.... which I last used on my '64 Galaxie 500XL.... 20 years ago.
I'll get it jacked up & have a look inside the drum this weekend.
Was under the F350 looking at something else & noticed this...
******
Thinking wheel cylinder, but odd that the fluid appears to be leaking from the top. At least I have all the tools needed to work on drum brakes.... which I last used on my '64 Galaxie 500XL.... 20 years ago.
I'll get it jacked up & have a look inside the drum this weekend.
Btw, what would you all use to clean the alum water pump with? It’s looking a bit crusty.
That thought did cross my mind. I gave the backing plate a clean up with some LATA & that area at the top is actually rusty. I'll clean it up better tomorrow & have a closer look. No desire to be under the truck right now while it's dark & the Black Widows are active. Plus I wiped out a few two nights ago with the blow torch & the survivors may be looking for revenge.Check the brake line, etc for a leak, too. There could be a pinhole squirting the backing plate.
The brake line looks clean and not rusty, though. I’m not used to that.
It is somewhat baffling.Not likely to be the cylinder. When those leak, it all drips,out the bottom of the drum.
The brake line looks clean and not rusty, though. I’m not used to that.
Actually it was a Wisconsin truck that was parked every Winter in a heated garage & was never driven in the rain or on salted roads etc & spent half the time in Arizona. It's only been a California truck since March 21st.California truck!
Is it possible this is just left over from the last time it was bled?Was under the F350 looking at something else & noticed this...
******
Thinking wheel cylinder, but odd that the fluid appears to be leaking from the top. At least I have all the tools needed to work on drum brakes.... which I last used on my '64 Galaxie 500XL.... 20 years ago.
I'll get it jacked up & have a look inside the drum this weekend.
It could be, but the fluid in the rezzy is black so who knows how long it's been in there.Is it possible this is just left over from the last time it was bled?




Love mine, haven’t gotten a camper yet but my tie downs live on the truck not on the garage floor with my trailer hitch!


So, I repaired all the splices that were twisted and taped this time using crimp connectors and heat shrink, then reconnected the splice from the iginition BAT terminal wire to the starter solenoid, and it fired right up. I'm guessing one of the hack job splices was loose. I'm not touching it again till next time we visit.That hopefully goes to the R terminal on the starter and is not needed with HEI. It was use for points when there was a resistor or resistor wire to the coil in run to keep it from burning up the points, full 12v while starter is engaged 6-8v in run.
You sure you have a hot wire at the HEI bat terminal when the Ign switch is in the run position?
I'd try a jumper from the battery + to the HEI + on the cap if it still doesn't start there is another issue somewhere else.
*As long as they're willing to put in their own effort."So I don't need to take my bicycle to a shop for service?"
Me: Nobody needs to take a bicycle to a shop for service*
Got a call from roomie who was out on her E Bike..
"I got a flat, I'm about a mile away"
Put rack on ST & go fetch her. Rear tire is partly off the rim.
Get home, pop tire back on, inflate, pops off the rim again
Pop it back on, center tire on rim, inflate again, Ops Ck OK, all seems to be good.
Then I get "how do you know how to work on bicycles?" (seriously?)
I (foolishly) mention that when I lived in Cambridge (home to 20,000 rental bikes) my landlord owned a bicycle shop & in lieu of some rent I'd fix customer bikes & assemble rental bikes for him on Saturdays.
"Oh, you kept quiet about that..."
Dagnabbit, now she knows I was actually employed as a bicycle mechanic...
"So I don't need to take my bicycle to a shop for service?"
Me: Nobody needs to take a bicycle to a shop for service*
* Although the mechanically inept bf of my sister does, even to get the tires pumped up & the chain lubed FFS.
*As long as they're willing to put in their own effort.

I like to watch people bleed.Or unless they are of the breed that cuts themselves picking up a screwdriver
you'd make a great surgeonI like to watch people bleed.
