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What did you do "IN" your garage today?

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cannuck

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 30, 2021
Messages
4,657
Location
Rural SK
3 nights ago our neighbour from farm showed up on doorstep and told my wife he needed some help. I got home late so went to his place in AM and he was broken down in middle of first cut of hay (feedlot with a LOT of hay to cut) because an axle mounting for a drive pulley had failed. I cut it apart but got stopped in my tracks when my right hand slipped and fed 2nd finger into the blade of vertical band. 3 stitches later I came home and made the component new parts and was done for the day. Got old cylindrical socket for shaft cleaned up, jigged and clamped to weld into base - tacked in 4 places, unclamped and mindlessly did final circumferential weld....but the start of that must have broken a tack and socket off square. Chucked up the base plate in 4 jaw and machined off most of the weld (some times a good root is a proper PITA!) then into the 20 ton press to brake it free. Back to 3 jaw to true it all up, back into the same jig and clamps but THIS time did 3 tacks and went back with socket in 3 jaw to check axial runout in base...and damned if it wasn't already 0.060" at 3/4" radius. Chose one tack as zero and cut/broke one closes in dimension to push to zero and re-tacked - rinse and repeat for #3. Within 0.030 radial runout so did final base circumf and back to press to flatten the (now 3/8 vs. original 1/4) base plate (about 4 x 6). Made 3 gussets and re flattened again so by end of day handed it over to a very happy friend (mower/conditioner old enough that zero parts available, but simple enough to be fixable).

No more drama today, just put 3500 into shop to find and fix what seems to be yet another 5.9 water pump failure (new last year).
 

Magnum440d100

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 2, 2018
Messages
3,581
Location
Indiana
I have harnessed the power of multiplication!!!!


I’ve been buying parts for the Lincoln. A LOT of parts.

That means “extras”. Don’t ask me why I’m keeping old parts, when I’m replacing them because they’re no good…

Anyway, I had been getting by with one tote of extras. Then it broke, and critters got in.

IMG_4575.jpegIMG_4577.jpeg

So I went through, and separated everything from this tote, and recent purchases, into four totes. Exterior, interior, under hood, and under car.

Then shoved everything up into the rafters lmao. IMG_4583.jpeg

Still have more to do, just ran out of time. But this should get me closer to organized.

Goal is to have less on the ground and more put away. Once I have concrete poured, I’ll organize a shelf system better. Just doin “for now”.
 

driftpin

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 22, 2016
Messages
11,304
Location
Miami-Dade/Broward Co. Florida
I have an old 8 ft fiberglass ladder, which had the rivets for the thinner legs at the top plate pull-out/rust-out. I used my old HFT side grinder (an orange case, probably 25 years old) to remove all the rivets holding all the fasteners for the fat (front) legs as well as the skinny (rear) legs to the top plate. A BFH and a center punch was helpful in punching out all those failing/failed rivets. The rivets were replaced with 5/16" X 1" SS hex head screws, flat washers, and nylok nuts. It's much stronger now.

I also replaced the folding A-arms holding the front/rear ladder legs together, using the same procedure and fasteners.

The ladder was a 'found on the side of the road' item, years ago. Still functional, after a bit of work.

The bad, rusted-out fasteners:
One SS hex head screw already in-place.
1721621016430.png

Seeing how-bad the rivets were, I wasn't going to use it without replacing them.

1721621152487.png

The SS hex head screws/nylok nuts are seen here.
 

Old Man Roger

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 6, 2017
Messages
17,817
Location
Palm Coast Florida
I have an old 8 ft fiberglass ladder, which had the rivets for the thinner legs at the top plate pull-out/rust-out. I used my old HFT side grinder (an orange case, probably 25 years old) to remove all the rivets holding all the fasteners for the fat (front) legs as well as the skinny (rear) legs to the top plate. A BFH and a center punch was helpful in punching out all those failing/failed rivets. The rivets were replaced with 5/16" X 1" SS hex head screws, flat washers, and nylok nuts. It's much stronger now.

I also replaced the folding A-arms holding the front/rear ladder legs together, using the same procedure and fasteners.

The ladder was a 'found on the side of the road' item, years ago. Still functional, after a bit of work.

The bad, rusted-out fasteners:
One SS hex head screw already in-place.
1721621016430.png

Seeing how-bad the rivets were, I wasn't going to use it without replacing them.

1721621152487.png

The SS hex head screws/nylok nuts are seen here.
As much of a safety nut as you are, I can’t even believe you were using that ladder.lol
 

niget2002

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 2, 2012
Messages
11,236
Location
Josephine, TX
I have an old 8 ft fiberglass ladder, which had the rivets for the thinner legs at the top plate pull-out/rust-out. I used my old HFT side grinder (an orange case, probably 25 years old) to remove all the rivets holding all the fasteners for the fat (front) legs as well as the skinny (rear) legs to the top plate. A BFH and a center punch was helpful in punching out all those failing/failed rivets. The rivets were replaced with 5/16" X 1" SS hex head screws, flat washers, and nylok nuts. It's much stronger now.

I also replaced the folding A-arms holding the front/rear ladder legs together, using the same procedure and fasteners.

The ladder was a 'found on the side of the road' item, years ago. Still functional, after a bit of work.

The bad, rusted-out fasteners:
One SS hex head screw already in-place.
1721621016430.png

Seeing how-bad the rivets were, I wasn't going to use it without replacing them.

1721621152487.png

The SS hex head screws/nylok nuts are seen here.
I think those bolts are worth more than the rest of the ladder.
 

Magnum440d100

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 2, 2018
Messages
3,581
Location
Indiana
Been having to stay within 10’ of a toilet all day, so no work for me.


Been doin what I can in the main garage. Putting tools away that I didn’t have time to put away after using them because of time constraints, unboxing items and putting them on the shelves, going through and throwing trash away.

Stuff that should have been done in the moment, but as always “rush rush rush”.

I did order a carb for a flip mower yesterday that should be here tomorrow. Then install, oil change, tune up, etc, and that’ll be up for sale and hopefully OUT OF MY WAY! Lol


It’s been a moment since I was able to actually spend time in my main garage/shop. I forgot how peaceful it was.
 

Motorman55

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 10, 2016
Messages
2,648
Location
South Jersey
Starting to make some 'Special Catagory' trophies for our HOA's Car Show in late September. We buy new trophies for Top 10 or 20, Trustee's Award, etc which are voted on by the combined votes of the vehicle owners and spectators, but I like to make some special recognition awards like 'Oldest Stock Vehicle', 'Original Paint', 'Vintage Commercial Vehicle', basically real survivors vehicles.

So here's a couple pics of a few I just began to work on. These will be for the motorcycle catagory. I'm using real metal vintage trophy parts to create them. I'm just in the rough design/layout portion right now. For instance the round metal stamped discs will be used, but the small metal squares are just for size comparison. I will use larger square engraving panels. I used a couple different size hole saws in my drill press to make the circles.

Here's a couple pics. I will post more as i go along.1721672537104.jpeg1721672517084.jpeg
 

Bob Heine

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Oct 24, 2009
Messages
10,708
Location
Boca Raton, Florida
The ladder was a 'found on the side of the road' item, years ago. Still functional, after a bit of work.
Philip, I'm the likely the least qualified safety adviser on the GJ but I'd shorten that ladder to something like four feet. A fall from 5 or 6 feet might leave a mark or put a body part in a cast. If that ladder was old when you got it, there's no way of knowing how much UV damage has been done to the fiberglass. The rivets you've replaced is a start but you don't put any weight on those. The rusty rivets that attach the steps to the rails look pretty rusted and those rivets hold your full weight. If a ladder step lets loose it will be a complete surprise and you'll be headed for the ground at a rapidly increasing rate.

Full Disclosure: I have made many mistakes when it comes to ladders. In 1968 (three years before OSHA was born) my tallest ladder was four feet high and had no safety warnings so I used all but the top step to paint our first house with a spray gun. The extension ladder would have been safer but holding a spray gun with a quart of latex paint with an outreached arm was too close to a torture technique my father used to prove how weak I was as a kid.
Painting.JPG

A decade later (47 years ago) I bought a super cheap 6-foot aluminum step ladder. The skinny leg eventually buckled on me and I landed on a sturdy hedge. No stitches or casts and using logic similar to yours I reinforced the part that buckled. As @niget2002 points out, stainless hardware would have exceeded the cost of the ladder.
Ladder Repair.jpg
I inherited a short stepladder from my mother-in-law and use it all the time. I suspect it's older than my 6-foot POS but I feel really secure standing on it.
Secure Stepladder.jpg
It might be a post-OSHA ladder because the thing that looks like a step at the top is neatly engraved with reminders.
Warning.jpg
Your post triggered me so once again I visited Jeff's River of Stuff. Knowing how poorly my cheap-*** 6-foot aluminum ladder performed and how uncomfortable its narrow steps are on my bare feet, I looked for the most expensive 6-foot ladder Jeff offers. It appears to be very safe and only $232.97 a month for 12 months.
Fancy Stepladder.jpg
I'm not sure I'll be alive in 12 months and certainly don't want my widow to be stuck with installments (remember, we don't have a mortgage or car payments or credit card balances that include interest charges). I looked for the least expensive 6-foot ladder and rejected the first few for the first "Jeff's River Choice" at $11.67 a month for 12 months. It's on sale so I decided to pay the full price ($69.99 [22% off]) for the reason mentioned above.
New Stepladder.jpg
I hesitated for a moment before placing my order because the page showed me a 6-step ladder for about double the price. The cheaper one isn't really a 6-foot ladder and it's not even a 6-step ladder. The 6-step that's on sale for just shy of twice the price caught my eye...
Six StepLladder.jpg
... but I immediately rejected this one because -- see first photo -- I would be standing on that 6th step with pneumatic nailer in hand and the box of nails between my feet. The company offering the 6-step ladder is also named WOA WOA (made me think twice).
 
Last edited:

Outlawmws

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,321
Location
The Badlands
I generally despise aluminum and fiberglass ladders. All my folders are wood, and I have a similar one for painting as Bob posted.

Wood ladder is loose? most have screws going side to side all the way. tighten those up and Preto - its stable again!

For folders I have one 8 footer, 2-3 sixes, a really good 4 footer, and one 3 footer. I also have a really tall 12 ft? one I made for the garage storage wall 2X6 risers and 2X4 steps, rabbeted into the 2X6, and all-thread holding it all together. It's more like a steep set of stairs than a ladder...

I do have one Aluminum "extension" ladder; One of those extra wide MT-22 Werners, the can be a straight leaner or a Folder at half the height. It's often more trouble than it's worth... And one regular sliding extension I should just get rid of... I don't ever use it now that we eliminated the basket ball hops from the garage. The Xmas lights can be mounted with the 3 step painting ladder. (All remounted on 1X4 - We can put them up on the hooks at the peak of the garage from the ground. )
 

welder4956

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 8, 2010
Messages
3,081
Location
Birmingham, AL USA
Pulled the steering rack off the Mustang to replace a torn bellows. Once I got it off I found both bellows were torn and one of the tie rod boots was torn. I had already ordered 2 new Moog bellows in case both were damaged, so no problem there. Since the tie rod ends have to come off anyway to replace the bellows, I ordered 2 new Moog tie rod ends. Then I degreased and pressure washed the steering rack and some of the engine parts, and sprayed a coat of black paint on the rack to dry overnight.

20240722_110954.jpg

20240722_112110.jpg

20240722_130017.jpg

20240722_134609.jpg

20240722_134852.jpg

20240722_134900.jpg

20240722_130002.jpg

20240722_130023.jpg
 

niget2002

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 2, 2012
Messages
11,236
Location
Josephine, TX
Answered a phone call about my truck. They said they had to replace the starter and I can come pick it up. They said the bad starter cable they replaced last week damaged the starter.

Quick googling shows others have had to have the starter replaced too. Great. Hope this doesn't become "a thing". Truck is two years old and only 24k miles.
 
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Old Man Roger

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 6, 2017
Messages
17,817
Location
Palm Coast Florida
A cold start issue? In Florida?
The irony is not lost on me.lol

Starts and runs perfect for the rest of the day, even after sitting for 8 to 10 hours. But first thing in the morning, it can take three or four long long cranks to get it going. So long I’m concerned I’m getting the starter too hot.

It has good fuel pressure, good spark, no leaking fuel pressure regulator???

Ive read too much ethanol in the gas can cause it, or possibly a small vacuum leak that goes away once every thing warms up?
 

Mr.zippy

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 27, 2020
Messages
2,221
Location
Wyoming
I just replaced a fuel pump in a 05 suburban due to a long start after several tries. Regulator was leaking down.
 

kaymccampbell

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 27, 2015
Messages
29,609
Location
Upstate New York
The irony is not lost on me.lol

Starts and runs perfect for the rest of the day, even after sitting for 8 to 10 hours. But first thing in the morning, it can take three or four long long cranks to get it going. So long I’m concerned I’m getting the starter too hot.

It has good fuel pressure, good spark, no leaking fuel pressure regulator???

Ive read too much ethanol in the gas can cause it, or possibly a small vacuum leak that goes away once every thing warms up?
Slow leaking injectors, or leaking fuel rail pulse damper, causing a dry rail?
 

Old Man Roger

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 6, 2017
Messages
17,817
Location
Palm Coast Florida
Which engine…I have an 06 as well…
4.3
I just replaced a fuel pump in a 05 suburban due to a long start after several tries. Regulator was leaking down.
Starts fine after 8 or 10 hours of sitting during the day, just doesn’t like mornings, like me..lol
Slow leaking injectors, or leaking fuel rail pulse damper, causing a dry rail?
I get instant 65 psi of fuel pressure right at the turn of the key. I would think if the rail was draining it would take a second or three to build pressure?
 

Jgaz

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2016
Messages
1,705
Location
AZ
Chasing a long cold start issue on the 06 Silverado. Cleaned the throttle body, and wrapped a little Teflon tape around he grommet on the MAP sensor.
I had the same issue on an 01 4.7 Dakota. It had one injector leaking down.
The problem was easy to diagnose once I pulled the plugs. The bad injector was fouling the spark plug on that cylinder.
 

Old Man Roger

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 6, 2017
Messages
17,817
Location
Palm Coast Florida
I had the same issue on an 01 4.7 Dakota. It had one injector leaking down.
The problem was easy to diagnose once I pulled the plugs. The bad injector was fouling the spark plug on that cylinder.
Had a bad injector about a year ago, so I replaced the whole spider injector. And the fuel pressure is good, I would think if I had a leaking injector the pressure would drop off pretty quick.
One option given to me was a bad cam sensor?
A few months ago I had a no start, that was cured when I replaced the cam and crank sensor. I figured they both had the same mileage.
Any codes set?
None, which really irritates me..lol
 

GrayFlattop

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 18, 2018
Messages
1,051
Location
Chicago
Temps moderated enough the last few days, so I spent the last three days cleaning up the garage. The typical litany of throwing stuff away, organizing, cleaning, etc.
Cut up a bunch of tubing and flat stock so I could fit it somewhere.

Bottom line, for the first time since January I’ve been able to park both cars in the garage. I was hoping to get this done a few months ago, but yard and garden work has consumed a lot of time this year.
 

kaymccampbell

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 27, 2015
Messages
29,609
Location
Upstate New York
4.3

Starts fine after 8 or 10 hours of sitting during the day, just doesn’t like mornings, like me..lol

I get instant 65 psi of fuel pressure right at the turn of the key. I would think if the rail was draining it would take a second or three to build pressure?
Not necessarily. My old leaking down car went to full pressure at the turn of the key. Are you reading the pressure with a mechanical gauge, or through the ECU? A lot of ECUs remember what they were doing when they shut down and put that data out for a second before generating a new snapshot on startup.
 

Old Man Roger

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 6, 2017
Messages
17,817
Location
Palm Coast Florida
Not necessarily. My old leaking down car went to full pressure at the turn of the key. Are you reading the pressure with a mechanical gauge, or through the ECU? A lot of ECUs remember what they were doing when they shut down and put that data out for a second before generating a new snapshot on startup.
I’m using a gauge at the fuel rail.
 

GrayFlattop

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 18, 2018
Messages
1,051
Location
Chicago
I have an old 8 ft fiberglass ladder, which had the rivets for the thinner legs at the top plate pull-out/rust-out. I used my old HFT side grinder (an orange case, probably 25 years old) to remove all the rivets holding all the fasteners for the fat (front) legs as well as the skinny (rear) legs to the top plate. A BFH and a center punch was helpful in punching out all those failing/failed rivets. The rivets were replaced with 5/16" X 1" SS hex head screws, flat washers, and nylok nuts. It's much stronger now.

I also replaced the folding A-arms holding the front/rear ladder legs together, using the same procedure and fasteners.

The ladder was a 'found on the side of the road' item, years ago. Still functional, after a bit of work.

The bad, rusted-out fasteners:
One SS hex head screw already in-place.
1721621016430.png

Seeing how-bad the rivets were, I wasn't going to use it without replacing them.

1721621152487.png

The SS hex head screws/nylok nuts are seen here.
I can appreciate being frugal and repairing rather than throwing something away, but one minor failure and the cost of a new ladder will be tiny in comparison. I’ve fallen off a few sketchy ladders in my time, but that was when I was younger and dumber. I’ve stopped doing a few things when the potential recovery from injury outweighs the pennies saved.

One of the maintenance mechanics at my former employer was a frugal guy that drove me crazy by insisting that **** ladders were “good enough”. I pissed him off a few times by running over a sh!t ladder with a 15,000# lift truck to render it garbage.
Next time, in made him use a demo saw to chop one up into little pieces. He was one thick-headed SOB.
 

driftpin

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 22, 2016
Messages
11,304
Location
Miami-Dade/Broward Co. Florida
As much of a safety nut as you are, I can’t even believe you were using that ladder.lol

Philip, I'm the likely the least qualified safety adviser on the GJ but I'd shorten that ladder to something like four feet. A fall from 5 or 6 feet might leave a mark or put a body part in a cast. If that ladder was old when you got it, there's no way of knowing how much UV damage has been done to the fiberglass. The rivets you've replaced is a start but you don't put any weight on those. The rusty rivets that attach the steps to the rails look pretty rusted and those rivets hold your full weight. If a ladder step lets loose it will be a complete surprise and you'll be headed for the ground at a rapidly increasing rate.

Full Disclosure: I have made many mistakes when it comes to ladders. In 1968 (three years before OSHA was born) my tallest ladder was four feet high and had no safety warnings so I used all but the top step to paint our first house with a spray gun. The extension ladder would have been safer but holding a spray gun with a quart of latex paint with an outreached arm was too close to a torture technique my father used to prove how weak I was as a kid.
Painting.JPG

A decade later (47 years ago) I bought a super cheap 6-foot aluminum step ladder. The skinny leg eventually buckled on me and I landed on a sturdy hedge. No stitches or casts and using logic similar to yours I reinforced the part that buckled. As @niget2002 points out, stainless hardware would have exceeded the cost of the ladder.
Ladder Repair.jpg
I inherited a short stepladder from my mother-in-law and use it all the time. I suspect it's older than my 6-foot POS but I feel really secure standing on it.
Secure Stepladder.jpg
It might be a post-OSHA ladder because the thing that looks like a step at the top is neatly engraved with reminders.
Warning.jpg
Your post triggered me so once again I visited Jeff's River of Stuff. Knowing how poorly my cheap-*** 6-foot aluminum ladder performed and how uncomfortable its narrow steps are on my bare feet, I looked for the most expensive 6-foot ladder Jeff offers. It appears to be very safe and only $232.97 a month for 12 months.
Fancy Stepladder.jpg
I'm not sure I'll be alive in 12 months and certainly don't want my widow to be stuck with installments (remember, we don't have a mortgage or car payments or credit card balances that include interest charges). I looked for the least expensive 6-foot ladder and rejected the first few for the first "Jeff's River Choice" at $11.67 a month for 12 months. It's on sale so I decided to pay the full price ($69.99 [22% off]) for the reason mentioned above.
New Stepladder.jpg
I hesitated for a moment before placing my order because the page showed me a 6-step ladder for about double the price. The cheaper one isn't really a 6-foot ladder and it's not even a 6-step ladder. The 6-step that's on sale for just shy of twice the price caught my eye...
Six StepLladder.jpg
... but I immediately rejected this one because -- see first photo -- I would be standing on that 6th step with pneumatic nailer in hand and the box of nails between my feet. The company offering the 6-step ladder is also named WOA WOA (made me think twice).

I can appreciate being frugal and repairing rather than throwing something away, but one minor failure and the cost of a new ladder will be tiny in comparison. I’ve fallen off a few sketchy ladders in my time, but that was when I was younger and dumber. I’ve stopped doing a few things when the potential recovery from injury outweighs the pennies saved.

One of the maintenance mechanics at my former employer was a frugal guy that drove me crazy by insisting that **** ladders were “good enough”. I pissed him off a few times by running over a sh!t ladder with a 15,000# lift truck to render it garbage.
Next time, in made him use a demo saw to chop one up into little pieces. He was one thick-headed SOB.

Thank-you to all the members who commented upon the ladder 'fix.' To be truthful, I don't use it much, and I probably could use it for an example of 'when do you retire a ladder?' I have others, which get the call to work. I checked the other rivets, and the ones which were in-need of replacement were all steel ones, the aluminum ones seem to be not showing signs of looseness, deterioration or in-need of replacement. I do store it out of direct sunlight, and as-mentioned, I rarely have used it. Maybe I need to take a second look with respect to its overall condition, despite the valuable SS fasteners. :unsure:
 
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