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Puget Dude’s creations and fabrications (Random project thread.)

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PugetDude

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In hindsight I believe it was pure ******* luck that I wired up the starter outside the Goldwing circuitry. I ordered the missing sensors (kickstand, bank angle, etc. on EBay last week so I could use the Honda starter solenoid and ignition wiring. My impatience in waiting for them to get here may have paid off, it appears I may have inadvertently bypassed all of them. I guess I will find out when I get it running and start performing a radical vasectomy on the Honda harness. (Sorry, @Metallitubby 😉)

More to follow.
 
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PugetDude

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Waiting on Summit Racing to deliver my glasspacks, decided to take a break from wiring for a couple of days. Tired of sitting on an upside down Homer bucket while working on the wiring, thought maybe I would knock out a Vyper shop stool knock-off, entirely out of stuff I have lying around. ( Full confession, I did buy a new open box Vyper seat for ~$60 on eBay a while back, so this project has been rolling around in my head for some time now).

I made a few changes, used the 4" locking swivel casters I bought on Amazon from the link here. I also have the 2" ones if these turn out to be awkward. Couldn't decide whether to plagarize the round Vyper shop stool or the low rectangular detailing stool, so I decided to combine the best features of both- went with an elliptical base to eliminate the ankle-biting corners and infinitely variable height for different uses. .

Had a chunk of 1-1/4" UNF and a couple of matching hex nuts, center column is a 2" S40 pipe drop I picked up at the scrapyard.
IMG_20240909_095012039.jpg The elliptical perimeter frame started life as a expensive piece of patio furniture that someone tossed out. I needed some 5/8 round bar for the shifter, too; that's why I grabbed it.
IMG_20240909_140758313.jpgThere isn't anywhere up here on the mountain to buy small quantities of new steel, so I check out the scrapyard occasionally. That's where nearly everything on this build came from. It's more work, but it beats a 3O0 mile round trip to Phoenix. Had some 5/8" rebar left over from the bridge project, so I used it for the column supports arms. The expanded metal has been in my way for over a year, so I took this opportunity to cut it up and use it for webbing on the support arms, with 3/8" rebar for the top chord. Should be plenty strong...🤣
Rolling frame almost finished...ready for casters. IMG_20240911_134257879_HDR.jpg
I needed a piece of 1/8" thick 6" x 9" plate for the seat mount. Sometimes you just get lucky .. dug this out of the scrap bin under my bench.

IMG_20240911_134150231_HDR.jpg
Seat should be finished tomorrow.
 
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PugetDude

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Looks good but I have to ask, how much tread plate do you have laying around? Seems like it makes an appearance in every project.
I bought a bunch of fairly good sized remnants at Industrial Metals a couple of years ago. They are just about gone now, going to have to go get some more when I get back to Phoenix. For some reason I do try to use it on every project. (that and rebar). Guess it's from all my years in Industrial fabrication, I just seem to like working with them- and they're both irregularly textured- just like my welds... :ROFLMAO:
 
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PugetDude

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Welded up the seat post mount, added 4 small gussets to reinforce the attachment to the post. Shot it with a quick coat of satin black and attached the seat. IMG_20240911_150634781.jpg
Calling this one done for now.
I do have some leftover tool box liner if the expanded metal shelves prove problematic. IMG_20240912_121648100.jpg
18"- 28" height range. Probably never use it max height.
Back on the '32, the brown truck just delivered my glasspacks from Summit Racing.
 

manwithtools

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Welded up the seat post mount, added 4 small gussets to reinforce the attachment to the post. Shot it with a quick coat of satin black and attached the seat. IMG_20240911_150634781.jpg
Calling this one done for now.
I do have some leftover tool box liner if the expanded metal shelves prove problematic. IMG_20240912_121648100.jpg
18"- 28" height range. Probably never use it max height.
Back on the '32, the brown truck just delivered my glasspacks from Summit Racing.
Need more squares... :)

Great job Scott!

I've actually been looking closely at the Vyper chairs. Pricey, but after my back injury, I think I'm willing to "buy once, cry once".
 
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PugetDude

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Back on the '32 today. Got the glasspacks mounted up temporarily, had to fab up a 2" offset on the driver side to clear the shifter mechanism. Wired the alternator into the hot side of the starter solenoid, will make sure it's charging when I get the engine running for more than a few seconds.
Dragged it out of the garage to turn it around so the exhaust will be facing out.

IMG_20240913_151423901_HDR.jpgGot @readhead 's
temporary gas tank clamped to the firewall, poured a little gas in it and watched it all run out through a disconnected fuel line on the bottom of the carburetor. Got that sorted out, by then dinner was ready so I called it a day. Have to get more gas and try again tomorrow.
 
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PugetDude

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Gas running out the bottom of the carbs somewhere. Profusely. All the carb coolant lines run under there, couldn't see where it was leaking fuel, it was everywhere. Grabbed a pair of sheet metal pliers and clamped off the line running from the temporary tank to the carburetors.
Got the flow stopped, mopped up all the gas and got a fan running in the garage.

I think the carb assembly has other problems, I would have thought the float(s?) would shut off the flow when the bowls were full? When I pulled the exhaust headers off the engine the drivers side was dripping fuel. I felt it would be easier to just pull the engine and work on it outside the car. Only takes a few minutes to pull it out with the engine leveler and the rolling gantry crane.

This one is a head-scratcher. :headscrat Might be time for a carb adapter machining project. :unsure: I have 3 Ford 94's I was going to use on the flathead... they're about as simple as it gets. Hmmmmm....

Big thanks to @Metallitubby for the cooling and fuel line schematics. (y) They enabled me to sort out the coolant return lines from the carbs back to the water pump. Guy I bought the engine from cut them when he removed the engine. With all the coolant, fuel, and vacuum lines running around the carbs it is difficult to discern what is what.
 

Old Man Roger

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Ya, that's why it's always better to just get the whole bike. That way you know where and what things go and do. I put Yamaha Raptor 660 engine into an fl350 Honda odyssey dune buggy frame. It was butta, because I had the whole four wheeler to start with.

I wouldn't have had a clue if it was just an engine with no wire harness and vacuum lines, your Goldwing is likely way more complicated than a raptor.

The Raptor did have reverse too.
 
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PugetDude

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Well, started down a rabbit hole today... I'm up at the cabin and don't have my lathe and mill up here .. but, wait... I do have a little Taig lathe tucked away in a cabinet somewhere. 1/9 HP, haven't used it in years. I do have 3 and 4 jaw chucks for it. Time to put it to work. IMG_20240915_142923423.jpg
The Goldwing carb intake tubes are 1.66" diameter. So is 1-1/4" S40 pipe. I happened to have a foot of it left over from a handrail project. Galvanized, nasty weld seam on the inside. Perfect!
Whacked a couple of pieces to length with my old, tired DeWalt abrasive cutoff saw and turned them on the lathe. I only had one cutter, a worn-out 1/4" AR with a carbide insert. Couldn't find the tiny Torx wrench to index it, had the use the dull cutter. Don't hate me for it. They finished up to my admittedly lax specs, measured with a cheap Chinese digital caliper that measures to two whole decimal places. (All my machinists tools are down in Phoenix)IMG_20240915_155050292.jpg
The temporary plugs are a 1-1/2" plastic sink drain flange pipe with a Gatorade cap pressed in it. I was looking for something to keep debris out of the intakes, didn't have to dig very far. 🤣 Surprisingly, both the sink drain and the bottle cap were both a precision press fit.

First step complete in a $100 plan that may or may not work... New manifold boots and other parts on order.IMG_20240915_165237028.jpg
 
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PugetDude

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Next step in the carburetor change was to build a manifold adapter. Used a piece of 1-1/2" x 3" 16 gauge rectangular tube to transition between the Honda intake and the new carburetor, which should be here on the brown truck by Thursday. As soon as that gets here I will be able to layout and machine a 1/2"thick carb mounting plate to weld on top of the transition box. That will have to wait until I get down to Phoenix and can use my mill, I'll take a skin cut to flatten the mounting surface after it's all welded up.

I'm fairly confident this is going to work, but it always pays to have a backup plan... Which is mailing the Honda Carb Assembly off for rebuild...@$500-600 and 4-6 weeks lead time. Trying this first.

I would have preferred to make this out of aluminum but used steel for this weldment because every time I try to mix aluminum with electricity it turns to ****. I have a Miller Diversion 180 TIG in Phoenix but I am hopelessly inept at welding aluminum with it.
Might get some time to practice with it this winter. In the meantime I need to get this thing running.

IMG_20240916_153542541.jpg
 
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PugetDude

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Waiting on the carburetor parts to arrive, knocked out a quick welding project.

My high velocity shop floor fan needed a stand. I'm trying to reduce my steel inventory... so.... had an section of 1-1/4" square handrail that desperately needed to go away.IMG_20240918_100826447_HDR.jpg
Had a 28" long piece of leftover 2-1/4" diameter tubing from the deck railing project last summer.
Also got to use the last of hairpin radius rods I have been dragging around for 10 years from the scrap bin. Cross bar Mount is 3/4" S40 pipe. Here's where all this **** comes from...IMG_20240918_101745541.jpg
$6.99 2" stem casters came from the Amazon deals thread.

I love it when a plan comes together. IMG_20240918_094949924.jpgIMG_20240918_095057047.jpg
 
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555

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I had a 79 GL1000 with one of the automotive carb adapters. The adapter was basically a square box with with four tubes running to the carbs. It had a VW carb on it. The adapter didn't have a provision to run engine coolant through the manifold and It was a pain in cooler weather. Top speed runs were great but it was hard to start and didn't idle very well. I messed with the jetting but couldn't get that carb to play nice. The bike sat for a few years until one of my son's took and interest in it. During that time the science had changed quite a bit and a new adapter made provisions for engine coolant as well as a recommended carb. The bike started, idled and ran great.
 
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PugetDude

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Thanks, 555.
The Goldwing carb does have a little aluminum coolant loop running under it. I thought about fitting it to the manifold adapter, but not sure it would do much with the open plenum. I can buy a phenolic spacer to isolate the carb if need be. This is an experiment at this point. If it works, great, if not I can send the Goldwing carb off for rebuild. New carburetor due here tomorrow, I will take it down to Phoenix with me so I can drill, tap, weld, and then mill the mounting pad. I found dimensions online, but I would prefer to template off the actual carb.
 

TimeWarpF100

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Back on the '32 today. Got the glasspacks mounted up temporarily, had to fab up a 2" offset on the driver side to clear the shifter mechanism. Wired the alternator into the hot side of the starter solenoid, will make sure it's charging when I get the engine running for more than a few seconds.
Dragged it out of the garage to turn it around so the exhaust will be facing out.

IMG_20240913_151423901_HDR.jpgGot @readhead 's
temporary gas tank clamped to the firewall, poured a little gas in it and watched it all run out through a disconnected fuel line on the bottom of the carburetor. Got that sorted out, by then dinner was ready so I called it a day. Have to get more gas and try again tomorrow.
have you gotten a weight as it sits? What do you think curb weight will be? 1450?
 
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PugetDude

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have you gotten a weight as it sits? What do you think curb weight will be? 1450?
Not sure at this point, Randy, but you are probably pretty close.

Honda engine and Transmission are 285#.
Brookville body weighs 265#
Haven't weighed the rest.
Frame, front suspension, rear axle, radiator, front end sheet metal, gas tank, interior... Probably not over 1000# total.
I'll be happy with 100 HP at 1500#. About the same as a loaded trike.
Maybe I should start a poll? Winner gets a valuable prize...🤣
 
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