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Just picked up a pretty bad *** floor crane / cherry picker / engine hoist.

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Grant Gunderson

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Found this guy on craigslist locally for less than the cost of a Snapon wrench... For scale the legs have a 3' spread between them so it will easily straddle a Bridgeport mill.
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Supposedly its only got a 2000LB capacity. I'm calling BS on that when a Horror Freight model is listed for that. This thing is all ½" and ¼" wall tubing.
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It's aHydra Hoist Crane made by Valley Craft Products for the USAF. Model H-2XE. They are still around but can find anything about the crane.

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Found the USAF tag on it and looked up the NSN number
NONTELESCOPINGBOOM OVERHANG LENGTH(CHXN) 3.250 FEET NOMINALBOOM TYPE(CHXM) NONREVOLVINGDESIGN TYPE(APGF) BOOMLIFT MECHANISM TYPE(AGDC) HYDRAULIC RAMOPERATION METHOD(APHE) MANUALOVERALL WIDTH(ABMK) 3.333 FEET NOMINALLOAD POSITION LOCKING METHOD(CHXR) CHECK VALVEMAXIMUM LIFT HEIGHT(AGBP) 9.000 FEETMAXIMUM LIFTING CAPACITY(CGTX) 4000.0 POUNDSSPECIAL FEATURES(FEAT) STRADDLE CLEARANCE ADJUSTABLE 22 TO 47 IN.,ROLL UNDER CLEARANCE 11 IN.MIN,STEEL WHEELS,FLOOR BRAKE,SWIVEL TYPE SAFETY LATCH HOOKIII MAXIMUM LIFTING CAPACITY(CGTX) 4000.0 POUNDS

4000lb lift is more like it but I bet thats conservative! It should easily lift my Bridgeport Mill and even my Monarch 10EE lathe!

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Looks like Uncle Sam paid something like $6K for it. When I get time I'' do a full restoration on it, but that will have to wait. For now, I'm going to do the minimum to get it up and running.
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The boom has a pivot base, so you can lift and pivot what you are lifting to a new spot. It's got a provision for a 4" square tube to be used as an out rigger. So first thing, I stone the base so it will pivot smoothly.
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And give it a good coat f super lube.
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Here is the shaft that goes into it. It's 3.5" ¼" wall tube.
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It's and Electric over Hydraulic system.
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Next order of business will be to replace the vent tube with something more proper, and rebuild the ram. I've never rebuilt a ram before, but imagine it wont be too difficult compared to the bike suspension Componets I am sued to working on.
 
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Firebrick43

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capacity of that nice hoist has nothing to do with the strength of the structure, and everything to do with stability of the unit with a load in the air.

Nice find. I have a nice cherry picker but even though it has dual action hand pump, I wish many times for an electric pump on it.

After you rebuild the ram, it really shouldn't need a vent tube. We had many dual acting cylinders used in a single acting fashion and just put sintered bronze vents on them. But even if you do install a hose to the reservoir you don't need a tee/tube to atmosphere.
 
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whateg01

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That 2000# capacity is probably more realistic than the 2t rating on a hf engine hoist. I buckled the legs on a harbor freight machine when one of the casters shattered with about 2200# on it. Look at a legit 1000# caster and then compare to the thin wheels on the cheap engine hoists. Nice find
 
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Grant Gunderson

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Firebrick43 said:
capacity of that nice hoist has nothing to do with the strength of the structure, and everything to do with stability of the unit with a load in the air.

Nice find. I have a nice cherry picker but even though it has dual action hand pump, I wish many times for an electric pump on it.

After you rebuild the ram, it really shouldn't need a vent tube. We had many dual acting cylinders used in a single acting fashion and just put sintered bronze vents on them. But even if you do install a hose to the reservoir you don't need a tee/tube to atmosphere.
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With a cross brace inserted, I dont think stability will be any issue. This thing has a 4x6' foot print! I think the guy only ran the vent tube since he was having issues with the cylinder. Hopefully I don't find any issues in there other than bad seals.
MOS3522 said:
I'm very jealous. That thing is awesome. I want one!
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Ha, I didnt need it, but I wanted it when I saw it. Its the most beefy / impressive engine hoist I've seen.
GeoBruin said:
Possibly 2,000 lb at full extension, which would be quite impressive. For comparison, the "1 ton" Harbor Freight engine hoist gets derated to 500lb at full extension.
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I agree with you. I folded a Horror Freight one trying to lift my Mill when I was trying to get it out of a garage with very low ceilings. This thing can not only straddle it, but will easily pick it at full extension.

I'm curious what the AF was using it for. The guy that had it was an aerospace engineer that moved up where from AZ and got it off of a base in the South West.
 
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Grant Gunderson

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So the boom extension is 3" ¼ wall tube. Beefy.
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The pivot feature is damn cool. At full extension the boom is 5 Feet.
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If I'm going to use that, tho I need to fab up an outrigger out of 4" square tube.
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I dont know if these pics really show how wide of a spread the legs have. This is really cool for lifting the machinery I have in the shop as it can actually straddle it, so shorter boom extention needed and way more stable. Its going to be right at home with the heavy American iron I have for machine tools.
 
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Grant Gunderson

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honcho said:
Now you can lift those porky e-bikes in your older age!
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Haha! I’m not that old or fat yet!
Old Man Roger said:
That thing is awesome, but the pivot feature scares me.:scared:
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Yes. Thankfully it’s got a very beefy pin lock mechanism to keep it from pivoting. I can see the pivot feature being very useful tho. So I’m going to make the out rigger for it at some point.
 
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GeoBruin

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Grant Gunderson said:
Haha! I’m not that old or fat yet!

Yes. Thankfully it’s got a very beefy pin lock mechanism to keep it from pivoting. I can see the pivot feature being very useful tho. So I’m going to make the out rigger for it at some point.
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Make two out riggers that fold up like a typical engine hoist. When deployed, they should be opposite the existing legs. Then you'll basically have a spider crane.
 

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MBfreak

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Nice!
Make sure the wheels are all metal and bearings, bolts are good.
I restored a 1969 MB 280 SL. When I should lift the engine over the front clip( swedish nickname cyclop) which also has an expensiv chrome
part, one of the front wheels on the new 1,5 ton lift ( engine was 210 kg) split and the bellhousing made a dent in the "cyclop" and the chromed part ( made in 0,8 mm brass )
Luckily , the insurance company paid for the damage .
Ola
 
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Old Man Roger

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Grant Gunderson said:
Haha! I’m not that old or fat yet!

Yes. Thankfully it’s got a very beefy pin lock mechanism to keep it from pivoting. I can see the pivot feature being very useful tho. So I’m going to make the out rigger for it at some point.
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The out rigger would definitely make me feel better. I would want the pin to be on a spring so it automatically engages.
 
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Grant Gunderson

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Pulled the cylinder off this evening, so I could tear it down and see what I need for new seals. Put it in the Wilton and looked for any notices or holes in the gland nut to remove it, but couldn't find any. Ended up putting my 24" pipe wrench on it, and it wont budge.
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So tried to heat it with two blow torch's opposed by 180 degrees.
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Got it hot enough to melt the inner seals, but damn thing still wont budge. Tried tapping on the end of it to loosen the threads and even tried a 3' cheater on the 24" pipe wrench. Still wont move, and its even trying to lift the vise off the ½ plate its attached to. Ended up spraying it with some Kroil and will let it sit over night before I try again.
 
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Old Man Roger

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Hmm? Maybe you’re deforming It, causing it to hold on even tighter?

Maybe cut a shallow groove and hit it with an air hammer? Or an actual hammer and a chisel/punch?
 
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Mgdoug3

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Do you have an air hammer with a flat face hammer attachment? There's a chance the nut is seized and an air hammer might help jar it loose. I've come across some cylinders that have a snap ring you have to access through the pressure port to remove the gland once the nut is off.

My 2 ton HF cherry picker retracted all the way isn't able to pick up a 2500 lb engine without the back end coming up.
 
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Farmall450

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Mgdoug3 said:
Do you have an air hammer with a flat face hammer attachment? There's a chance the nut is seized and an air hammer might help jar it loose. I've come across some cylinders that have a snap ring you have to access through the pressure port to remove the gland once the nut is off.

My 2 ton HF cherry picker retracted all the way isn't able to pick up a 2500 lb engine without the back end coming up.
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This ^ or put a jack under that pipe wrench and let her rip.
 
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Grant Gunderson

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So ended up having my buddy come over and give me a hand. We put a 4' cheater on the pipe wrench and with both of us pulling on it, we got it to break loose.
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I'm pretty sure that would have broken most small or import vises! The next challenged was to get the gland out. Its pressed in, so I used some very large channel locks on it to break it loose and to get it to rotate, then used a chisel to tap between it and the barrel to tap it out.
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The barrel inst in horrible shape. The corrosion is mostly in the very top end of it. Only major scratching is right at the upper bleed port. It should clean up well.
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I'd say it's pretty obvious the piston seals are bad! It's amazing it still worked at all.
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The piston nut was damn tight. I clamped the fork in my vise, and tried my big impact on it. Wouldn't budge. I then did the two wrench trick to get more leverage and both my buddy Jessie and I yanked on it to get it to break loose. Jessie was a big help. Once we got it loose I used the impact to zip it off.
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I polished the shaft with some 1K, 2K. 3K and then 4K grit sand paper. Its nice and smooth.
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The gland is going to take some work to clean it up! You can see here where I burned the dust wiper out of it. The actual seal (over down) is missing a good chunk too.

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The lower piston seal was toast! As was the lower glide ring. The Larger glide ring isn't in great shape, but still in one piece. Once I get it all cleaned up I'll have to figure out the sizing and get the replacement seals.
 
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bugnut

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Grant, very cool hoist! I would think rotating a load could be difficult, but if not going far from center not to difficult. I'm thinking with spider leg and stability a thrust bearing could make it very easy. Cool Project!
 
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Grant Gunderson

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bugnut said:
Grant, very cool hoist! I would think rotating a load could be difficult, but if not going far from center not to difficult. I'm thinking with spider leg and stability a thrust bearing could make it very easy. Cool Project!
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I agree on the thrust bearing. Whenever I take it apart to paint it I’ll measure the shaft and see about ordering one. Hopefully in this size it’s not too astronomical.

I’m quickly getting to the end of my summer paint weather and way too busy to think about doing any proper painting this year. So it’s going to be next summer at least before I do a full restoration. My divorce and new business are just eating up too much time.
 
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rust in the eye

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Grant Gunderson said:
IMG_1085.jpeg
Pulled the cylinder off this evening, so I could tear it down and see what I need for new seals. Put it in the Wilton and looked for any notices or holes in the gland nut to remove it, but couldn't find any. Ended up putting my 24" pipe wrench on it, and it wont budge.
IMG_1087.jpeg
So tried to heat it with two blow torch's opposed by 180 degrees.
IMG_1092.jpeg
Got it hot enough to melt the inner seals, but damn thing still wont budge. Tried tapping on the end of it to loosen the threads and even tried a 3' cheater on the 24" pipe wrench. Still wont move, and its even trying to lift the vise off the ½ plate its attached to. Ended up spraying it with some Kroil and will let it sit over night before I try again.
Click to expand...
Probably will require a good shock to break it loose. Put a big pipe wrench on it then deploy the ol' BFH.
 
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