To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Need a long 1/4 drive breaker bar

I

impactims

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 24, 2011
Messages
1,168
What is the longest out there?

Not looking to use cheater pipes, extension adapters or anything like that. I seek a ONE-PIECE breaker bar, 1/4 inch drive, and long.

How long? Well, longer is better. Ideally, 10 inches plus.

Why do I seek this? It's complicated and I'd rather not do all the explaining. But it has to be as described above and all I can find so far is 6 inch long breaker bars in 1/4 inch drive.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
F

Firebrick43

Well-known member
Joined
May 12, 2015
Messages
14,222
Location
West central Indiana
impactims said:
What is the longest out there?

Not looking to use cheater pipes, extension adapters or anything like that. I seek a ONE-PIECE breaker bar, 1/4 inch drive, and long.

How long? Well, longer is better. Ideally, 10 inches plus.

Why do I seek this? It's complicated and I'd rather not do all the explaining. But it has to be as described above and all I can find so far is 6 inch long breaker bars in 1/4 inch drive.
Click to expand...
The only thing in 1/4” still cataloged that is 10 plus is the snap on TLLF72 but it’s not a breaker bar.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
I

impactims

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 24, 2011
Messages
1,168
chris142 said:
Could you get a 3/8 bar and a 1/4 bar and swap the head?
Click to expand...
Have not looked into that...

The 1/4 inch drive anvil is not as wide so some spacers would need to be used to make it fit properly at the very least.
 
A

andys

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 14, 2010
Messages
1,663
Location
Bucks County, PA
1

1320

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 3, 2018
Messages
903
Location
Arizona
20241201_180636.jpg

Snap-on TM9G is 9" long. I guess they're not made anymore.

A person could buy a modern Snap-on 1/4" breaker bar for the head and swap it for the ratchet head on a TLLF72, THLLF72, or THLLFD72, but that could get kind of expensive.
 
OP
I

impactims

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 24, 2011
Messages
1,168
andys said:
It can't be so bad that the force you require will break it before the socket or fastener gives out.
Click to expand...
My experience with low end tools is not always breakage. It's flexy material, sloppy tolerances, a finish that comes off easy...things like that.
 
OP
I

impactims

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 24, 2011
Messages
1,168
whateg01 said:
Same. Common sized breaker bar and a welder will produce as long of a tool as you want.
Click to expand...
I'm not the best welder out there, and while that could yield good results with the correct person doing it, I'm not up for that. I could knock something out, but it wouldn't be straight, clean, I wouldn't trust it under load etc.
 
V

Viper98912

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 20, 2012
Messages
1,132
Location
GA
With the number of replies you've made about not explaining and 'just trust me', you might as well have told us so we can maybe recommend something else?

1) Regardless, I don't understand why you can't use a cheater bar.

2) The reason many people are skeptical of what's going on is because 1/4" is pretty small, and once you really torque on it, you will crack the head. I learned this the hard (dumb?) way when I used a 3/8" to 1/4" adapter to be able to put some torque on a small socket using a 3/8" breaker bar. I sheared my adapter right in two. At the end of the day, you won't be able to torque something 1/4" as much as you think you can.

3) If you still want to try it and can't find what you're looking for, try to find a 3/8" to 1/4" impact adapter, those are tougher and should resist shearing more than a regular one. Use a 3/8" breaker bar (at whatever length you desire), place the adapter at the bar, and use the appropriate length 1/4" extension that suits your need.
 
B

BillK

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 24, 2006
Messages
9,365
Location
Beautiful Southern Maryland
impactims said:
I'm not the best welder out there, and while that could yield good results with the correct person doing it, I'm not up for that. I could knock something out, but it wouldn't be straight, clean, I wouldn't trust it under load etc.
Click to expand...
You are overthinking it. I dont know why you dont want to tell us exactly what the use is going to be but most 1/4" drive sockets I have seen will break long before even the cheapest breaker bar will. The VIM one will be fine if you dont want to make something.
 
OP
I

impactims

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 24, 2011
Messages
1,168
BillK said:
You are overthinking it. I dont know why you dont want to tell us exactly what the use is going to be but most 1/4" drive sockets I have seen will break long before even the cheapest breaker bar will. The VIM one will be fine if you dont want to make something.
Click to expand...
A specialized hydraulic test stand needs some work done to the electric motor. If I had a long enough 1/4 drive breaker bar with minimal slop (or no slop) in the head or anywhere else I could do what I need to do without having to do lots of disassembly.

3/8 drive with adapter? Nope, too bulky. Not enough room.

The snap on one? Maybe, but not sure with that handle.

The VIM one? Maybe, the handle may be too big.

Cheater bar? If it were a perfect fit. Otherwise, there will be slop and bulk.

Use a ratchet instead? Not enough room. Head is too bulky.

Use a wrench? Nope, needs to be a socket to clear.

Weld on an extension? Not a bad idea. I'm no welder though.

Ideally, I would have a hard handle (not the big plastic handle) 10-12 inches long breaker bar. But I can't seem to find one.

I will try the 90* extension adapter with a 12 inch long extension. That will be long enough and it is low profile enough to clear. My only concern is added slop at the extension to adapter interface. This will likely be more sloppy than a breaker bar.
 
M

mike93lx

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Dec 9, 2013
Messages
37,929
Location
Richmond, VA
Serpentine belt tool with the 3/8 drive cut off and a 1/4" drive to hex adapter welded in. Nothing would be thinner

www.wihatools.com

1/4" Socket Adapter

Turns an Ultra Driver into a nut driver using standard 1/4" sockets by using standard 1/4" hex drive
www.wihatools.com www.wihatools.com
 
B

brickG-man

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 31, 2011
Messages
134
Location
Chicagoland
impactims said:
A specialized hydraulic test stand needs some work done to the electric motor. If I had a long enough 1/4 drive breaker bar with minimal slop (or no slop) in the head or anywhere else I could do what I need to do without having to do lots of disassembly.

3/8 drive with adapter? Nope, too bulky. Not enough room.

The snap on one? Maybe, but not sure with that handle.

The VIM one? Maybe, the handle may be too big.

Cheater bar? If it were a perfect fit. Otherwise, there will be slop and bulk.

Use a ratchet instead? Not enough room. Head is too bulky.

Use a wrench? Nope, needs to be a socket to clear.

Weld on an extension? Not a bad idea. I'm no welder though.

Ideally, I would have a hard handle (not the big plastic handle) 10-12 inches long breaker bar. But I can't seem to find one.

I will try the 90* extension adapter with a 12 inch long extension. That will be long enough and it is low profile enough to clear. My only concern is added slop at the extension to adapter interface. This will likely be more sloppy than a breaker bar.
Click to expand...
If welding is out maybe you could rig something up with JB Weld if you have the time for it to cure/harden.
 
W

whateg01

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 13, 2006
Messages
11,533
Location
doo dah, kansas, usa
brickG-man said:
If welding is out maybe you could rig something up with JB Weld if you have the time for it to cure/harden.
Click to expand...
A cheater epoxied to/over the existing handle would have no slop in it. It avoids welding even though I can't see how any decent weld at all would break with the amount of torque a quarter inch drive tool is going to endure.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom