rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

[rattle_snake]

To go along with the old school hotrod theme, I installed a 5" monster tach with an external shift light front and center on the dash. Gaudy? Oh ya. Useful? not yet, but it is a statement.


Brings me back to the 90s with the tack face staring back at me.

 

[PugetDude]

To go along with the old school hotrod theme, I installed a 5" monster tach with an external shift light front and center on the dash. Gaudy? Oh ya. Useful? not yet, but it is a statement.


Brings me back to the 90s with the tack face staring back at me.

Won't the fuzzy dice hanging from the rearview mirror block your view of the tach? Not to mention that it's in the prime location for the bobbling hula girl.

 

[PhantomEB]

I miss the 90s when I was growing up.

it’s why I want an early 90s Foxbody to build up into a damn quick little street car. just a bar and however quick that will let me go.

why that Car? It was the car that I always seemed to have to race with my big block mopars back then. Now I prefer my cars nice, small and light.

like my engine machine shop buddy says, with my paychecks, his fully equipped shop and what we know now….10s would be easy to do plus drive home.

***** I need to win the lotto to get an acreage to do just all that. Not enough room with the bronco, bug for her and my cargo trailer out back.

 

[rattle_snake]

haha I was the kid in the Foxbody with DOT slicks and a whiff of nitrous that got the job done.
How did your surgery go?

 

[PhantomEB]

Thanks for asking, dude.

surgery and healing has gone quite well, two more weeks and I will have my processors on and switched on For the first time. More hearing than I have had in probably a decade or two.

 

[rattle_snake]

Adding a 'safety valve' to the braking system. It will reduce drag on the rear brakes when needed, increase shoe life. Or something like that.


Whipped up a mount bracket. Welded nuts captive and hit with paint.


Picked this spot for now. The master cylinder leaks and is shot. New one on the way.


Even though the current isn't that high, I used a relay to isolate the inductive kickback of the solenoid. The push button switch is powered with ignition so can only activate when key is on. Eventually this will be replaced with a multi circuit fuse/relay box so I ran a 6 conductor cable into the cab for future expansion.


My last brake tube job was a **** show so I upgraded my tools. I have a Rigid flare tool, but the die won't hold a coated 3/16 size. Picked up a dedicated 3/16 flare tool and a real bender, what a difference.


Last guy's double/inverted flare job was unacceptable at best. Somewhat of a single flare is all it got.


Bent up new lines from MC, and back to the distribution block.


I made a crude hand momentary switch out of some heater hose and shrink tubing. Stashed it in the ash tray. Also made a blockoff plate for the radio hole.


So, how does it work? Fantastic. Didn't even bother to bleed the system, as a new master cylinder is going in next.
But it highlights the next problem, the one wheel peel. Can't have that so some more parts on the way.

 

[rattle_snake]

I yanked one of the axles to check the spline count for a traction device. 28, unfortunately.

 

[zmotorsports]

Awesome Justin. I had an Auto Meter 5" tach in my 1984 shortbed Chevy mounted on the dash when I had my big block in it and B&M Quick Silver shifter for the TH400 trans. I didn't have the shift light on mine though, but it brings back memories. Just before getting married, I swapped the column over to a tilt one with the auto shifter (being my truck was originally a manual trans.) and when I did so, I relocated the tachometer from the top of the dash down to the lower dash just above the tunnel near where the Quick Silver shifter was located prior. More out of sight and less conspicuous than on the dash. But on the dash I think it made a statement like you mentioned.

 

[rattle_snake]

Finished out compression test to give an idea of motor health. All cylinders were about 125 psi except for #4, at 110 (-12%) Looking at the plugs, #4 also has some oil control issues.


Other bank shows #6 oily. The cylinder fires.


So this engine has some miles on it and needs some money invested to address the 1st layer of issues found. May or may not move forward with it, have to tear it down and inspect cylinder walls and heads.

 

[rattle_snake]

The noise level of the A/C compressor on my Cobra has gone critical. It's fine when A/C is on, clutch engaged, but makes horrible noises when disengaged. So something with clutch or idler bearing. Been like this for many years, but A/C is on most of the time. Put it up and on the rack and saw this.


So missing all three links and only driven by one stud barely hanging on. I loosened the inner belt enough to get belt off the compressor pulley. It has no play and rotates freely, but does make some noise. I ordered a new Ford outer clutch and going to send it.
While removing the forward clutch assembly I also found A/C oil on one hose. I removed the braided sleeve and cleaned it further to get a positive ID on the leak location.

I am able to just get a vehicle on the lift with another parked behind it.

 

[ntsqd]

31 spline axles are not too terribly expensive, but a grenaded 28 spline shaft can be.
Are you going to do the diff assembly, or are you going to hire it out?

 

[rattle_snake]

Not sure I will use this rear axle in the end, so hesitant to put money into it. I don't think is has enough power to break anything at this point! I'll do the work myself, a 9" is the easiest to do. Going to slap a mini spool in the open carrier and install 3.89 gears.

 

[rattle_snake]

My 2014 F250 was up for cooling system maintenance again at about 70k miles. Instead of testing every 15k it's easier to just add the revitalizer twice and replace at 100k.


And my motorcycle is having problems. Once warmed up and in closed loop it would die when idling at a light. It has a power commander V that I have never touched. Suspect TPS calibration. I had recently installed a new battery so 1st step was to inspect and clean the terminals. I had stacked the charger ring terminal in between the factory terminal and that of the PC-V. I hit all the terminals with a scotchbrite ro-loc and re-ordered to make sure PC-V GND is as accurate as possible. Took it for a test ride and seemed OK. Will see.

 

[ntsqd]

Not sure I will use this rear axle in the end, so hesitant to put money into it. I don't think is has enough power to break anything at this point! I'll do the work myself, a 9" is the easiest to do. Going to slap a mini spool in the open carrier and install 3.89 gears.

Curious what your long range thoughts for the rear axle are? Pro-Touring type unit bearing floater D60? Strange Engineering drag race 10"? Ranger 7.5"?

FWIW, I've pioneered putting Expedition rear disc brakes (they come with a decent parking brake!) on full float drum brake D60's should that be the direction that you decide on.

 

[PhantomEB]

My school of thought is overbuild everything or at least build it to the point of just needing upgrades.

Rear 60 in this thing….that pumpkin is huge.

I would just go 9” with 31 spline once and call it done.

 

[ntsqd]

I used to think that way about the D60's. Then when Snowball's 8.8 failed a second time (only metric 35's, no doubler) at the same point in time where I'd decided to move to much bigger front brakes I took a dive into all things D60 and how it compared to the other options. What I found was that a D60 with no brakes on it at all was only a few pounds heavier than the complete 8.8 So any unsprung weight gain was mostly going to be whatever brakes and armored inspection cover I hung on it.

Since the front would 8 lug I needed an 8 lug rear. I could have built an 8lug, full float 9" I guesstimated that I'd be pushing really hard on $5k in a rear axle assembly. The full float D60 came in a set that cost $400 and it came with a high pinion, full width D44 that had the front brake parts that I needed. After I removed the parts that I needed I sold the HP D44 for $200.

Plenty of D60's out there in semi-float form. Not uncommon at all, from what I read all of the really high HP Mopars in the 60's & early 70's came with them. If a D60 has a weak spot, it's the 30 spline axle shafts. They're smaller than the 9in's 31 spline shafts, but the easy option at the D60 diff is to go with the 35 spline version of whatever diff you put in it and they're way bigger than a 31 spline axle shaft.

These days for a semi-float rear axle build I'd use the so-called "Torino" housing ends on whatever axle I chose and set it up with the 2.5" flange to flange dim which would allow the use of the Exploder RDB's.

 

[rattle_snake]

Awesome Justin. I had an Auto Meter 5" tach in my 1984 shortbed Chevy mounted on the dash when I had my big block in it and B&M Quick Silver shifter for the TH400 trans. I didn't have the shift light on mine though, but it brings back memories. Just before getting married, I swapped the column over to a tilt one with the auto shifter (being my truck was originally a manual trans.) and when I did so, I relocated the tachometer from the top of the dash down to the lower dash just above the tunnel near where the Quick Silver shifter was located prior. More out of sight and less conspicuous than on the dash. But on the dash I think it made a statement like you mentioned.

Mike,
Was your '84 Chev red? I think you posted some pics awhile back.

Curious what your long range thoughts for the rear axle are? Pro-Touring type unit bearing floater D60? Strange Engineering drag race 10"? Ranger 7.5"?

FWIW, I've pioneered putting Expedition rear disc brakes (they come with a decent parking brake!) on full float drum brake D60's should that be the direction that you decide on.

Likely will be either a 9" or an 8.8. The 8.8 can be narrowed easily and comes with discs. Some type of limited slip.

 

[zmotorsports]

Mike,
Was your '84 Chev red? I think you posted some pics awhile back.

Justin, I think I've posted a couple of squarebody GM's in my thread. I had a 1982 that was red/black/purple that was my first "shop truck" but it just had a carbureted 350cid engine in it and slammed 4/6. Then I had a GMT400 chassis'd 1991 that was all read that was very similar but a much nicer shop truck.

The shortbed I referenced above that I had was a 1984 that I built in High School in the late 80's. I had removed the anemic 305cid and put a small block 400 in it then shortly after the wife and I got married I built up a big block 402 and dropped in it. That particular one was GM Gunmetal Gray and black sapphire center panel paint scheme. I showed some pictures of it in my projects thread taken just after the wife and I were married and I toned it down a bit as far as accessories.

 

[rattle_snake]

New master cylinder arrived. I cleaned the fluid off the booster diaphragm and gave it a rattle can rebuild. It does it's job and holds vacuum. Plan to replace with hydroboost setup at some point.


The new MC has slightly different fittings and connection locations, of course. I had cut the front brake line too short previously, so I made a new one and replaced the rear line as well.


Gained some room to access spark plugs by replacing the curly Qs with the new lines. I did not to bench bleed so I could fab the new lines without making a mess. Still need to flush and bleed the system. Not my favorite job.

 

[Mr.zippy]

That little Ford would look fantastic painted to match it's big brother....

 

[ntsqd]

Nice job on those brake lines. Amazing what good tools can do for your finished product.

 

[PugetDude]

Mike,
Was your '84 Chev red? I think you posted some pics awhile back.

Likely will be either a 9" or an 8.8. The 8.8 can be narrowed easily and comes with discs. Some type of limited slip.

I cut down an 8.8 rear end from a Mercury Mountaineer for the '32. Cut 1-7/8" off the long side, jigged and welded, then slid in a replacement short side axle. 3.73, limited slip, perfect for the Roadster.

 

[rattle_snake]

the 8.8 also gets a 5 on 4.5" lug pattern which opens up the wheel choices significantly.

but for now a spool'd 9 and a line lock should achieve John Force style burnouts.

 

[ntsqd]

There were 9" made in that bolt pattern, and axle shafts really aren't all that expensive. Shockingly so. The bonus is that you already have the housing.

Unless I suddenly need an anchor for a boat that I don't own you can't give me an 8.8 I used to be open to them but after my experiences with one that was under Snowball, uh-uh, no way.

 

[ntsqd]

Just to see for myself I went thru Dutchman's custom axle process far enough to see what it would actually cost. Assuming neither shaft is longer than 32" it was $335 for a pair of 9" axle shafts, 5x4.5 BC, 1/2" pressed-in studs, Torino bearing configuration, no bearings, 1541 alloy (OEM alloy). They asked what type of differential and I selected a TruTrac (personal bias), but as far as I could tell the selection made no difference in the price. Changing to 4130 alloy increases the price by $75. 4340M and 300M were not options offered for this axle, can likely get them with a more in-depth custom order.

I would suggest that the 5x4.75 BC be considered. It will be stronger and shouldn't have any impact on wheel selection. If the chosen wheel is offered in 5x5 that would be even better, but I know first hand that 5x5 will have an impact on the available options.

 

[rattle_snake]

That little Ford would look fantastic painted to match it's big brother....

yes it would. I did think about that.

Nice job on those brake lines. Amazing what good tools can do for your finished product.

Thanks. Agreed, I should buy more tools.

 

[ntsqd]

Well, OK, if you must. But if my name comes up in "discussions" about your tool budget I know nothing!

I can see matching paint being either really cool or too cliched, and I'm not sure which way it would tilt.

 

[rattle_snake]

New clutch face arrived for Cobra. I think I got all the miles out of the old one. I've only had to replace a few things in the 20 years this car has been on the road, all with OEM Ford parts. I used the shim that came out, and the gap was in spec.


While on the lift I took a closer look at the suspect A/C hose with UV light. One crimp appears to be the source. No real benefit to fixing it now, the leak is slow so might as well drive it until the refrigerant leaves on it's own.

 

[rattle_snake]

Our little baby colt Eros is all grown up now and being ridden. He is gentle and calm, but has a lot to learn. He will be a solid horse anyone can ride.

 

[4 FN 27]

To go along with the old school hotrod theme, I installed a 5" monster tach with an external shift light front and center on the dash. Gaudy? Oh ya. Useful? not yet, but it is a statement.


Brings me back to the 90s with the tack face staring back at me.

Justin move that Shift Light right into your line of sight...racers will know you are serious then.

See the light, move the arm. Simple.

Note the location...pointed right between my eyes when in the seat.



Nice ride!!! I would be seen driving it!!!

 

[PhantomEB]

I am debating throwing a tach in the bronco only cause Speedo will be my Gaia app on my phone, think I got a 2 3/4” one out there on the table. Do I go 3 3/4? Don’t think I need 5” with the sniper too.

 

[rattle_snake]

Justin move that Shift Light right into your line of sight...racers will know you are serious then.

See the light, move the arm. Simple.

Note the location...pointed right between my eyes when in the seat.

Nice ride!!! I would be seen driving it!!!

Thanks!
Interesting I had not seen that placement before. Make sense.

I am debating throwing a tach in the bronco only cause Speedo will be my Gaia app on my phone, think I got a 2 3/4” one out there on the table. Do I go 3 3/4? Don’t think I need 5” with the sniper too.

Honestly the sniper screen is enough by itself. If you have one set it in place to see how it looks, go from there.

 

[rattle_snake]

Parts came in to do gears and a mini spool. Before I tore down the rear end I double checked the ratio. Seems I was off, it is slightly less than 3 rotations not a bit more. So it is a 2.75:1 not a 3.25. Going to a 3.89:1 is now a 40% increase in torque. The diff was caked in grime so I did 3 rounds of oven cleaner before even working on it. I still spent more time cleaning parts than gear setup.

I had hell getting the right axle out. It hung up on the brake backing plate. I had to bolt only the brake plate back on and beat on it while making a mess. Someone had been into the axle before. I pulled the carrier out and broke it down to install the mini spool. The cross shaft was stuck on one of the spiders. I spent a long time with the press making custom tooling to press the pin out. Unfortunately the pin was trash and had to spend time finding a replacement. The spider gear thrust washers were missing chunks, so debris to clean up.


The bearings were in decent shape so I reused them all. Pressed off the inner pinion bearing and onto the new pinion. I bought a install kit that had a crush sleeve eliminator so started process of dialing in pinion preload. The main spacer was too big so I popped it in the lathe and took off enough to use the associated shims. I cut the locking portion off the old pinion nut and used the old crush sleeve under the yolk to make the on-off process easier. After getting the right preload I installed the seal, broken yolk and new nut. Then it was too tight, thinnest shim too loose. I ground .001 off the spacer until perfect.


Installed minispool inside the carrier and put in fresh ring gear bolts with lock-tite.


Finished cleanup of the housing, turd polished the casting with a flap wheel and painted.


I started with the same pinion shim thickness that came out, set backlash and it was acceptable to me.
Coast side


Drive side


Then set carrier bearing preload, verified final backlash and rotational torque.


and more cleaning of the housing given the chunks and glitter from the spider washers. A paper gasket was used and baked on. I ended up using a die grinder witha rol-loc to grind it clean as a scraper wouldn't do it. Cleaned up the stud threads.


I don't want to clean the housing/3rd member again so I went and bought a Lube-locker gasket. No RTV. Right axle was hanging up on brake plate so I touched it up to fit properly.


I bought a gallon of 80/90 thinking my oil pump would work slick. Not so much, got hot so took breaks. Made it 3 qts, rested then no worky. Probably in thermal shutdown. So I added the last quart manually.


All wrapped up. Did a test drive, no noise. No more one wheel peel.

 

[zmotorsports]

Nice job Justin. There was a substantial amount of wear in there. Nice looking pattern upon reassembly.

I like the Lube Lockers myself as well.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

No more one wheel peel.

Those of us in the peanut gallery require proof of stated comment above...words are erroneous without pics to prove stated double tire incinerator status

 

[PhantomEB]

Honestly the sniper screen is enough by itself. If you have one set it in place to see how it looks, go from there.

I just may, Justin. It’s just this thing may see some rock wall climbs that may see some tires heating up. So I like to be prepared. At the very least just stick my little on the column As there’s nothing else there. I do think it will be side by side from my view.

 

[rattle_snake]

Nice job Justin. There was a substantial amount of wear in there. Nice looking pattern upon reassembly.

I like the Lube Lockers myself as well.

Thanks Mike. It was a challenge to save the carrier itself. One of the cross pin holes was damaged. Luckily this was a 4 pin type, and the minispool uses only a single full length pin. I was able to use the alternate set of holes for the proper fitment.
If I was installing all new high end bearing/diff/axles I would have pulled the housing to clean the tubes and so on. I was surprised to see the old gears and bearing in good shape given what got ground up. I think it's due to the design of the 9" carrier. It's basically closed up except for one hole, so the spiders 'processed' the pieces before they got out of the carrier.

Those of us in the peanut gallery require proof of stated comment above...words are erroneous without pics to prove stated double tire incinerator status

Yes, understood. I was waiting on replacing the distributor, as it could fail at any time, and could be difficult to leave the crime scene.

I just may, Justin. It’s just this thing may see some rock wall climbs that may see some tires heating up. So I like to be prepared. At the very least just stick my little on the column As there’s nothing else there. I do think it will be side by side from my view.

I had a tach on the column of my 77 bronco. You're right, nothing to block view on the dash.

 

[rattle_snake]

Spent some time on Sunday fixing broken stuff. The blade tilt on my table saw had frozen up some time ago. It was difficult to understand what was the reason, so I started taking things apart. Once I had the worm gear off I found that the cradle was free and that the adjustment mechanism was the culprit. As I turned the shaft I saw the tip wasn't concentric and the worm gear was bound in the rack. Further disassembly showed that the eccentric shouldn't be turning, it is an adjustment, and the shaft was froze to it. I got all the pieces out and polished the shaft on the lathe.


I put some grease on the shaft and some lock-tite on the adjustment sleeve nut. Should prevent the same from happening again. I replaced the sheer pin I broke for the handle. Now it's smooth and easy to operate.

 

[rattle_snake]

New distributor arrived. I had it custom curved for my application which isn't hard but it is involved, assuming you know what your trying to achieve. The oil pump drive shaft seems to always be in the wrong spot. I hacked up the old unit so I could drop it in and adjust the shaft. Also can be used to prime the oiling system with a drill. The vac advance adds 18*, and the motor is much happier with it added at idle. Vacuum went up 3-4 inches. Total timing at idle is about 34*

 

[rattle_snake]

Hoping one of you 'old timers' can explain the choke on this 4150. It doesn't look like the typical manual choke. The bosses on the main body appear different. It has a choke pull-off and a high idle sprag. Assume it's missing some parts.

Tempted to just remove all of it.