Winter Car Maintenance
I've self-maintained the GTI since I bought it new. Tbh with a new car there hasn't been a ton to do aside from oil changes, other fluid levels, tire rotations, etc.
But realizing I've had the car for 8 yrs now (model year 2016), I've been wanting to take it in for an inspection. I have a general distrust for the dealership, and don't really have an independent Euro shop that I've tried... because as mentioned I've been doing the easy maintenance stuff and haven't really had any major issues with the car yet. I probably need an alignment and a few other things.
Anyways, I've had it on my mind to flush the brake fluid since I've never done it. Sorry, Dennis!!
@Denwood
Got a quote from a German car shop that's been in my neighborhood for forever (my dad used to take his Porsche 924 and Audi Quattro coupe there ~40 yrs ago). They gave me a quote of $160 for a brake flush, which I thought sounded reasonable by today's prices for anything... however I was having trouble finding time to schedule it since they are closed on weekends.
So long story short I found my way onto YouTube again and then to FCP Euro and realized a pressure bleeder, catch cans, and new brake fluid was about $60-70 all in. Decision made.
Also ordered some extra goodies, as this is what's on the menu for winter prep:
— brake flush
— coolant top off (reservoir is low)
— oil change
— lubricate door and sunroof seals
— swap wheels to winter setup
— install winter mats (weathertech)
— wash, clay, seal
First up was the brake flush, which is my first time doing it. It went mostly smooth I think, but there were a few things that threw me for a loop.
Since I had to take the wheels off anyways, I also did the winter wheel swap. I enlisted my son to help, my effort to try to involve the kids more.
The pressure bleeder I got is the
Motive 0100.
I've got mixed feelings about it, which I'll detail.
I put 1L of new fluid in it, as that's all I bought, and it immediately bothered me that there were massive air pockets in the delivery line after pressurizing. Everything seemed nice and tight to me.
I read on the Motive website that some air pockets are normal, and that the fluid travels around them on the inner walls of the tube... but in the videos I've watched the tube always seems to be solid with fluid. Idk, maybe not an issue, but it made it look like the fluid wasn't moving, and it felt counterintuitive.
I started out with 15 PSI.
The front brakes seemed to go fine.
My catch can bottles didn't have graduations on them, so I filled about one bottle total for the fronts.
On the first rear brake, I think I opened the bleed screw too much. Fluid was coming much slower than the fronts (despite the canister pressurized), so I opened it more, and then got a bunch of small bubbles in the catch can tubing, which I assume was air entering at the bleed ******.
The 2nd rear caliper bled
very slow. I even upped the pressure to 20 PSI. It also seemed like the unit was losing pressure even though not much fluid was passing through. I was wondering if there was a leak because I felt like I could hear a hissing noise near the hand pump at times, but I couldn't figure it out.
I even depressurized and removed the pressure bleeder. The master cylinder reservoir was completely full, so that's good. I reattached and tightened everything, and same result.
Eventually the last rear filled up most of the bottle, but I was almost out of fluid in the canister. Even though 1L is probably plenty, Motive does say to put 2 quarts in the canister, which is about 1.9L. Maybe I should have bought more.
Next I tried to bleed the clutch line, and that seemed to fail. Don't have pics, but a long time ago I replaced the bleed screw on that with a one-way speed bleeder from when I upgraded the clutch line. I don't think it was a great fit for my catch can tubing.
VW instructions said to leave the pressure bleeder attached after doing the brakes, and crack the clutch slave bleeder to let out 100 mL.
I cracked it, and some came out, but it seemed like no where near that much.
Next it said to close the bleeder, pump the clutch pedal 10-15 times, and let out an additional 50 mL. After pumping the pedal it seemed like it was coming out better, but still not much.
So idk if I really got the clutch line fluid replaced well, but I don't think I introduced any air.
When I took the bleed system off again, the reservoir was still full to the brim. So I suctioned some out with the manual siphon line.
In the end my brake and clutch pedal feel normal, and the car is braking fine... so I think it went ok?
I just started to question everything when I felt like it was coming out so slow and the bleeder was losing PSI and had the big air gaps.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯
Please feel free to school me if you have any tips!
Also, I think I may have tightened the bleed screws more than necessary in retrospect. Just by hand with a small crescent wrench, but after watching
@Denwood 's video now I'm worried I overdid it. I wish I had watched it before hand as there are some extra good tips.
Also a bit confusing to me... the new and old fluid looked pretty damn similar. It wasn't super obvious when the new stuff ran clear. FWIW my little tester pen had the green light when testing both the original reservoir as well as the drained fluid.
Sadly this took most of my free time this weekend and I still have all the other stuff to get to.
It's getting cold!!