RTM
Well-known member
You are right, someone said that about mine too. Need to add that bit to my inventory.Love that red paint! Looks to be an unbranded G ******* Kit vise
You are right, someone said that about mine too. Need to add that bit to my inventory.Love that red paint! Looks to be an unbranded G ******* Kit vise


I think I found it 10 hours after he posted it. Does anyone know which Rock Island model jaws fit this??I snoozed and I lost, nice score Wr. Wonderful!![]()


1I'm being teased - finally a 1920's example (Dawn on the dynamic) comes up for sale at a reasonable price ($30).Yeah have that page, although, I'm murky with that era think that page is later than 1930's
This is a 1932 MacPhersons ( No Dawns apart from a woodworking in 1933 McPhersons )
This catalogue threw me again, as every other thing I have points to that vice being 1920's
1920's vices - very uncommon - Dawn on the dynamic, maybe a 2000's ish with that also, but that's it all the rest have Dawn on the static.
Got a few ready to patina this week
This is a late 20's,early 30's - the front ears on the static were discontinued around the start of 1930's, no Dawn on Dynamic but doe's have the early dots b/w letters and front ears kinda a in-between model with the size on the static as well. Also note the rear edge on the dynamic and has the non-rounded handle.
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that is exact right one! Thank you!Here is a drawing for Rock Island 5” jaws. Can’t remember if they will work for you.
Thanks, Patrick! I’m thrilled to have them. As someone with nearly zero drawing skills, they blow my mind a bitThose drawings are awesome @micahd1997!




Welcome aboard!Hello everyone, first time poster and vise owner here, just finished restoring this Columbian 108, need to buy some jaws but all done besides that. Came out of a Ford steel factory that it's been working in since the 50s, this color was chosen because it's a late 50s Ford blue. Next to a 5.5" vise in the pictures.![]()
Welcome, Spartan, and wow - beautiful 108! I’m not sure what your restoration consisted of, but from my pov you did an impeccable job. Very nice paint color. If you need recommendations for someone to make the jaws, I know a guyHello everyone, first time poster and vise owner here, just finished restoring this Columbian 108, need to buy some jaws but all done besides that. Came out of a Ford steel factory that it's been working in since the 50s, this color was chosen because it's a late 50s Ford blue. Next to a 5.5" vise in the pictures.![]()
Welcome and wow.. super nice job on the restore! I esp like the comparison to the Tradesman(?) next to it.Hello everyone, first time poster and vise owner here, just finished restoring this Columbian 108, need to buy some jaws but all done besides that. Came out of a Ford steel factory that it's been working in since the 50s, this color was chosen because it's a late 50s Ford blue. Next to a 5.5" vise in the pictures.![]()
Did a little to restore it, full strip, make a new bushing because the old one was too thin, and had to braze part of a jaw back on. That was stressful because I only have an hour or two of cast brazing experience before this. Found a gentleman online that makes them and has reasonable prices, but thanksWelcome, Spartan, and wow - beautiful 108! I’m not sure what your restoration consisted of, but from my pov you did an impeccable job. Very nice paint color. If you need recommendations for someone to make the jaws, I know a guy
It's some bs snap on branded tradesman that the shop I work for has. And found a gentleman online that seems to do a good job and has reasonable prices.Welcome and wow.. super nice job on the restore! I esp like the comparison to the Tradesman(?) next to it.
What’s the plan on getting jaws for it?
Nice job on the repair I didn’t even notice it until you mentioned it. Welcome to the club!Did a little to restore it, full strip, make a new bushing because the old one was too thin, and had to braze part of a jaw back on. That was stressful because I only have an hour or two of cast brazing experience before this. Found a gentleman online that makes them and has reasonable prices, but thanks
Thank you, this is the best photo I have on hand to show the repair (on the left under the tape), did my best to blend it in.Nice job on the repair I didn’t even notice it until you mentioned it. Welcome to the club!





I know somethingGood Afternoon, or morning peoples, my morning was spent at a swap meet, first purchase was a Woden 9" 189B/2 Quick release.
After a spray of WD40, everything works, seems mostly complete, bar maybe some washers on rear and a mounting bolt for the QR, straight into to the molasses after stripping down and Ill have a better look later this week.
Don't know nothing about it, assuming it's more than a year old but that's it, going to be a user as it has the handy QR and decided my 7" Dawn wasn't quite big enough for the larger vice teardowns and rebuilds.
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and 1931 catalogue - 
I'd clamp the vise lettering-side down over the edge of a stand or bench and then use a milled piece of scrap wood (a 1x2) with just enough paint on it to transfer to the letters. Touch and remove--don't scrape or spread.If anyone knows the best (and cleanest) method of painting those lettering (brush, sponge, paint pen?) please let me know.
Interesting technique.I'd clamp the vise lettering-side down over the edge of a stand or bench and then use a milled piece of scrap wood (a 1x2) with just enough paint on it to transfer to the letters. Touch and remove--don't scrape or spread.
Now he has to kill us all....Interesting technique.
If it works for Old Radar, that’s good enough for me. Thanks for posting.
Is this a top secret method just now being publicized or have others been doing it this way and just not sharing???
Personally, I have been using a paint pen or for colors not readily available in paint pen format, I have used a Q-tip with the cotton swab end cut off.
My Woden 186-b/1 3" Fixed base machinist vise is NOT Quick release... So not sure "B means that...
I think I came up with it from watching how old printing presses dab the print block faces on the ink pad and then touch the paper. It does take a little practice to get the right amount of paint evenly loaded on the wood block. Too little and you won't get even coverage--too much leads to all kinds of mess. The upside down bit just prevents paint drips where you can't clean them up.Interesting technique.
If it works for Old Radar, that’s good enough for me. Thanks for posting.
Is this a top secret method just now being publicized or have others been doing it this way and just not sharing???

Turned out Fantastic!
Thank you, I appreciate the wisdomNot sure I believe the "Opens 10-1/2" - (Vise DB says 9)
Having said that, the 825-1/2 is about 50 lbs heavier than the 975. The 975 seems to be in slightly better condition.