I have been using for equipment and diesel trucks without an issue, I had one of the trucks in the air for 2 months while doing a transmission conversion. One thing I did notice was the lift grows a surprising amount with temperature.
You can use the anchors that came with your lift and rest easy. Installing to your rebar gets you no benefit. All anchors (mechanical and epoxy) develop their strength through a stress cone in the concrete:
That guy doesn't know what he is doing. The disclaimer in his video states not to follow him and that he's not an engineer. It shows and he has made several mistakes.
There are many threads on this and many reasons why the mechanical anchors give better assurance and insurance for safety and reliability.
You can use the anchors that came with your lift and rest easy. Installing to your rebar gets you no benefit. All anchors (mechanical and epoxy) develop their strength through a stress cone in the concrete:
The rebar is not involved in that cone. (If you installed to the rebar, the cone would still shoot up above it.)
For two anchors of a similar dimension, the torque spec will change depending on the metallurgy of the anchor. If you are looking at two similar anchors with different torque specs, they should have different tensile properties.
That guy doesn't know what he is doing. The disclaimer in his video states not to follow him and that he's not an engineer. It shows and he has made several mistakes.
The best thing you can do is not make the same mistakes. Buy a brand new drill bit before your project. Use a quality hammer drill - rent one if you need to. This will give you a clean hole and smooth sailing with the anchors.
I used several drill bits to install my lifts and don't regret it. I would bet the guy in the video used an old bit and the two holes he is having problems with were the last two he drilled...
There are many threads on this and many reasons why the mechanical anchors give better assurance and insurance for safety and reliability.
One doesn't need to be an expert to put a video on the internet, but your lift manufacturer knows what they are doing. There are reasons they supplied you with those parts and they did not give you epoxy instructions. Unlike the boys on YouTube, they are experts and know what they are doing.
This is how the lift manufactures work. Epoxy is a back-pocket option that they can use if people get in trouble.
You might keep in mind that professional installers are not professional engineers and have no qualification that requires that they actually know how these things work or are designed. They are supposed to only read the instructions and be skilled in following them. Unfortunately, many don't even do that and can do dangerous things, like this example. (Wedge anchors will move a little bit, particularly in their first few months, which require re-torqueing. Epoxy could gum up the mechanical anchor and cause all sorts of bad things to happen.)
Yes. With some anchor bolts there are negatives to doing this, but probably not in this case. I would see if you can find the spec for the anchor bolt that the lift manufacturer provides and match that. At that point, I expect you will find similar torque specs.
The more expensive bit will give you a much cleaner hole. IMO - the headaches you will avoid will be worth the expense to have one of these. Murphy's law dictates that you will hit rebar in your floor.
I only used one drill bit and still use the same bit for other purposes, as well as the bit was several years old before the lift install, Keep the hole as powder free as possible whenever drilling concrete. I always run a vacume right against the bit while drilling(normally use one of my hvac suit vacs) you will be amazed how fast the filter get clogged.
I'll bet that's it!!!
Sorry I missed that. As mentioned above, the spec is dependent on the bolt. If the other lifts are using a weaker steel in the bolts, they will have a lower torque. Torque is required to tension the bolt. This not only gets the anchor to "dig-in" to the concrete, but it stretches the bolt like a wet noodle. (The stretch is dependent on the properties of the bolt.) As the bolt stretches, the threads of the bolt develop increased friction on the nut. <- This is what keeps the nut from twisting off and is the most important thing.
Retorque spec on wedge anchors is always lower than initial installation torque. You don't want to pull the anchors out. During installation, you are expanding the wedges. During retorque you are confirming nothing has loosened. They are different operations.
I don't see the need to reengineer this. I've had my Rotary SPOA10 in 2 different garages. Wedge lock 5 1/2" anchors. If Rotary felt more support was needed, they would use larger base plates and more holes. Not longer bolts.
This is evidenced by the plate size of the 20K lift.
Rotary manual:
It will not fail if properly installed and I wouldn't go out and buy new anchors if 5.25's came with the lift. But as pointed out in post 7 you can see how the anchors work and obviously deeper anchors will increase the bearing area of the cone. The picture below shows a failure where the anchors held perfectly as designed but the concrete gave out, possibly due to poor concrete. Poor concrete is not something you can easily test for with out taking core samples at the time of the pour and having them laboratory tested. Such testing is limited to large corporate or government contracts. So in the case below, perhaps the concrete really didn't make the 3500PSI spec but in that case longer anchors may have mitigated the poor quality concrete. So if you have to purchase new anchors and you have the concrete to use them by all means do so.
You can't really see the anchors themselves to see what might have failed but I agree, it looks like there was some kind of overlay over the slab. This could suggest the slab itself wasn't in the best condition.
I have a feeling the 150 initial is the seat the wedge and they inspection torque of 65 is just used as an indicator of the wedge/pin coming loose. More than likely any of the anchors staying above 65lbs is fine for normal lift use and the initial specs are just required by the anchor mfr.Finally got my heating system up and running so I was able to scan the floor with a FLIR camera to see where the radiant lines were. That and a broken leg put me out of commission for a few months. Just installed the lift at 110ft-lb and came back to read this. All went well at 110ft-Lb now I'm going to bring it up to 150ft-Lb. I also found, NOT in the installation manual, but in the Operation and Maintenance manual. That every 3 months I should recheck torque to 65 ft-lb. So I guess its a one time torque to 150ft-Lb and thereafter 65ft-lb. every 3 months. See right side column about 1/2 way down.
