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ZMotorsports Shop Projects 2.0

madison069

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Nov 5, 2010
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Location
Monroeville, PA
Nothing special, just LED floodlights in soffit cans. I installed 5000 Kelvin bulbs in the shop from it's construction completion. When we purchased the house, about six months before the shop was completed, I converted from the standard incandescent bulbs to LED but in the 4000 Kelvin color. Eight years later (few months ago) I started having a couple on the house fail so I recently switched all five on the house over to 5000 Kelvin to match the shop.

So they are can style with LED bulbs inside? I have a project coming up that involves installing lights in some soffit, so I was wondering what you had because they look good with the yellow light instead of the harsh white blue. Along with was wondering what your experience with them as yours are way up in the air! I'll be dealing with just 12' off the ground.
 
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zmotorsports

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So they are can style with LED bulbs inside? I have a project coming up that involves installing lights in some soffit, so I was wondering what you had because they look good with the yellow light instead of the harsh white blue. Along with was wondering what your experience with them as yours are way up in the air! I'll be dealing with just 12' off the ground.

They appear a little more sun or yellow in the picture, but they are in fact 5000 Kelvin bulbs and look much more like daylight in person. In my shop build thread I show how I sanded the painted the buckets brown to match the soffit rather than have the white stand out like a sore thumb.
 
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zmotorsports

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I want to give Zack, aka @zkdiesel, a HUGE shout out for his assistance last week. I had been fighting an issue with my Duramax and was striking out finding any valuable information on the interwebs. I sent Zack a PM with the question, and he instantly responded with his phone number to call. This pretty much goes back to our discussion a couple of weeks ago about having someone to bounce information off of when we come up against a wall. Well, I was up against a wall and to say I was getting frustrated with the keyboard warriors is an understatement. Over on the vehicle specific forum that I participate in once in a while, the specific DTC I was searching for had come up numerous times over the years but nothing addressing the actual data and how the ECM was interpreting that data. I thought there were some smart guys over there but unfortunately what I found was when a question was asked, it was the same mantra repeated over and over again, change this part or change that part. Any of us who've been wrenching long enough know that no two vehicles are the same and blanket statements are not always the resolution. Plus, I didn't want to simply swap parts or empty a parts cannon at my truck, I think those of you who follow me understand that's not me. No, I was seeking to understand the data. I thought I had a pretty good "bead" on various PID's before, but this issue had me stumped and I wasn't going to throw parts at the issue until I understood what the data was telling me. This is where I thought to reach out to someone who's skillset was obviously more advanced than my own and who's work I respect. I've never spoken to Zack before, nor really had any interaction with him other than some exchanges on this forum on various threads, so I wasn't sure how he'd respond to my question where he doesn't really know me either, but his selfless demeanor and knowledge on the subject were so very appreciated.

As we talked through the data that I had collected it was obvious that he has been in the diesel world much longer than I and his vast knowledge was so far above my own. Between his knowledge of the various PID's that I was mentioning and his willingness to help I could relate to his passion as well as understanding of the system(s).

Some preliminary testing I did prior to contacting Zack, when I thought I knew this system pretty well. :bounce: Without going into too many details about my specific issue, with the MAF reading skewed, I thought I possibly had an air leak after the MAF but before the turbo. So out came the smoke machine.
truck1.jpg


Nope, no issues there. Intake ducting and sealing was intact.
truck3.jpg

Then just to double check, I figured I would test the CAC and boost piping system. This didn't quite fit the symptoms, but it's an easy enough test and I always test these before doing any work as well as after a repair and I hadn't checked mine since my turbo rebuild two years ago so I figured I would at least rule it out as it's a free test and helps to check the integrity of the hot pipe all the way back to the cold pipe connection at the intake. This tested good as well, other than a very small leak at the backside of the EGR cooler. Without getting into details, let me just say I know with 100% certainty there is no way exhaust gasses through my EGR cooler can be excessive. ;) I did however, discover a leak at the backside when I pressurized the boost and ducting. I figured maybe I had an EGR valve that wasn't sealing well. :unsure:
truck5.jpg

Off came the EGR valve and upper intake tract for inspection. Sure enough, there was quite a bit of carbon buildup, however, this had to be from the first 60k miles of its life vs. the last 70k but figured I'd give it a good cleaning regardless.
truck9.jpg

Pretty nasty and I figured it was possible the EGR valve was hanging open slightly, even though no exhaust gasses would pass through it.
truck12.jpg

Grabbed a few new gaskets from my local GM dealer for reassembly.
truck13.jpg

Intake valve and upper intake cleaned up and ready for reinstallation.
truck14.jpg

With everything in the system nice and clean and tight I turned back to the data and noticed there was no change. This is when I felt like I was up against a wall without any answers and when I thought I would shoot @zkdiesel a private message and see if he'd be willing to shine some light on my dilemma.
truck21.jpg


truck24.jpg


truck26.jpg


In all this process I learned quite a lot, and I originally thought I had a pretty good idea of how the system worked. While I may have understood the system's functionality, I REALLY understand what the ECM sees throughout the process much, much better now thanks to Zack.


Goes to show no matter where we are in our specific fields, there is always something to be learned and it is especially nice when those who have said knowledge are willing to share it. Thanks again Zack.
 
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zmotorsports

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The previous dilemma was over the course of the past couple of weeks and not something I was quite willing to share, yet. I was embarrassed that I couldn't figure out my own truck issue and between my frustration with that situation and then having to watch my son going through his trial I just haven't been in the right mind to interact much with society, social or otherwise. I've been kind of a recluse the last few weeks and need to snap out of it.


I have been staying busy in the shop, just not documenting much. I've had a few other vehicles and projects move through the shop, but not being in the mood to talk or share, I've just isolated myself to the shop, cranked up the radio and went about working and without even taking any pictures.

Throughout some of the work I did notice that while performing some testing on vehicles using active testing and not running the vehicles, the battery does have a tendency to drain down and I got tired of lugging my 30+ year old large transformer battery charger around and having the cables draped up and over fenders, so I wanted something a bit more compact and I don't need anything to put out cranking amperage, that's what this old MAC Tools charger is for. This has been my one and only charger in the shop for several decades and has never failed me, but I think it was time to get it some help on a smaller scale.
charger1.jpg


Last week when our MAC Tools rep. came by, I looked at the MT6340B battery maintainer and really liked the compactness of it. Upon a little research, I discovered that the Pro-Logix model is the same exact unit, other than the MAC Tools labeling and sells for over $100 less. I'm all for high quality tools, but I'm not throwing stupid money at them. This Pro-Logix model PL2310 arrived on my doorstep yesterday.
charger2.jpg

The clamp storage on the backside is even kind of a cool idea.
charger3.jpg

I figured I would give it a test drive by letting it charge my lawnmower battery and see how it does on the 2A scale.
charger4.jpg


Overall, I think this will be nice little addition to the shop and one that I may use more than I thought. I think it will even work well for when I have to disconnect batteries from a car to keep the memory circuits alive as it is small enough I can set it in the engine bay and not have heavy cords dragging over fenders or core supports, and better yet, no big transformer to walk around or trip over.
 
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zmotorsports

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My son had asked if I could service his wife's RDX so last night I ran and grabbed it so I could perform a routine LOF service on it.


My DIL's 2015 Acura RDX racked and ready to rotate tires/wheels and get the fluids draining.
rdx1.jpg

The transmission drain plug looked exceptionally good and clean. No issues here.
rdx2.jpg

Fluid looks nice and bright red and clean as well.
rdx3.jpg

We stock drain plug washers for services, so both the engine oil drain plug and transmission drain plug get new sealing washers. This is where I've seen people make grave mistakes by trying to save a few bucks. These seals are cheap insurance against leaks, but more importantly, with proper torquing they also ward off stripping the threads out in oil pans or transmissions which can lead to expensive repairs.
rdx4.jpg

Transmission drain plug being torqued to factory specification.
rdx5.jpg

Another recent addition to the shop has been this Lisle funnel drain collector. I clean my funnels thoroughly before putting away in the cupboard, but they usually end up sitting on the workbench or tossed in the solvent tank until I have time to clean them after using. This way as soon as I am finished using a funnel, I can stick it in the drain holder on the side of the cabinet until I complete the rest of the job and clean everything at once. Also, this should help to possibly extend the serviceable life of my solvent in the solvent tank by allowing it to fully drip off somewhere other than in the solvent tank.
rdx6.jpg

Tires/wheels in their new position and after giving the chassis a full once over, they can be reinstalled. I like using my old Snap-on speeder for this as it prevents crossthreading of the lugnuts and I get a good "feel" of how the lugnuts are going on the studs. Just old habit I guess.
rdx7.jpg

Then set the vehicle down lightly on the ground to torque them to spec.
rdx8.jpg

After adding engine oil and transmission fluid, I checked the other fluids and tossed the Midtronics battery tester on the battery to make sure it was good.
rdx9.jpg

Everything completed and checks out, time to wrap it up and return it.
rdx10.jpg


Thanks for looking.
 

OutlawDrifter

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Joined
Jan 20, 2015
Messages
3,915
Location
KS
Throughout some of the work I did notice that while performing some testing on vehicles using active testing and not running the vehicles, the battery does have a tendency to drain down and I got tired of lugging my 30+ year old large transformer battery charger around and having the cables draped up and over fenders, so I wanted something a bit more compact and I don't need anything to put out cranking amperage, that's what this old MAC Tools charger is for. This has been my one and only charger in the shop for several decades and has never failed me, but I think it was time to get it some help on a smaller scale.
charger1.jpg


Last week when our MAC Tools rep. came by, I looked at the MT6340B battery maintainer and really liked the compactness of it. Upon a little research, I discovered that the Pro-Logix model is the same exact unit, other than the MAC Tools labeling and sells for over $100 less. I'm all for high quality tools, but I'm not throwing stupid money at them. This Pro-Logix model PL2310 arrived on my doorstep yesterday.
charger2.jpg

The clamp storage on the backside is even kind of a cool idea.
charger3.jpg

I figured I would give it a test drive by letting it charge my lawnmower battery and see how it does on the 2A scale.
charger4.jpg


Overall, I think this will be nice little addition to the shop and one that I may use more than I thought. I think it will even work well for when I have to disconnect batteries from a car to keep the memory circuits alive as it is small enough I can set it in the engine bay and not have heavy cords dragging over fenders or core supports, and better yet, no big transformer to walk around or trip over.

Very timely post Mike! I had a conversation with my wife last week as I was dragging my big Napa battery charger over to the garage to trickle charge the Mach 1. "I need to pick up a smaller unit for these types of jobs"...at one point I had about 3 different smaller chargers, but all have died throughout the years.

I'll be looking into this unit, thanks!
 
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zmotorsports

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Is it fixed now after our talk?

It's not officially "fixed", but I have the new signal modifier ordered. Should be here within the next couple of days. That appears to have been the interruption to the data, or at least the erroneous data going to the ECM. There is no way the MAF can drop to zero grams/second when the EGR opens to 30% and still run perfectly. I take that signal wire out of the equation and the MAF signal goes unchanged so that appears to be where the data is being corrupted.

Thanks again Zack, throughout our talk I was able to understand what the ECM needs to see and what those couple of PID's are telling it. I understand the system much better now thanks to you.
 
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zmotorsports

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Mike, why did you go with the ProLogix vs Ctek or NOCO or any of the others?

Not sure Ryan. I really liked the MAC Tools one and have been waffling over that one for a while now, just couldn't pull the trigger due to price. Then when I found that the Pro-Logix was the exact same one, I really didn't look at any others.

That being said, I do have the Ctek memory keep alive device and it works great. I will just use this Pro-Logix as a power supply for the Ctek memory saver.
 
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zmotorsports

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Very timely post Mike! I had a conversation with my wife last week as I was dragging my big Napa battery charger over to the garage to trickle charge the Mach 1. "I need to pick up a smaller unit for these types of jobs"...at one point I had about 3 different smaller chargers, but all have died throughout the years.

I'll be looking into this unit, thanks!

I've only used it once now Marc, but it functions as advertised and seems to be a nice quality unit for the price, especially compared to the $180 for the MAC Tools version.

I feel like I'm betraying my old transformer style battery charger. :unsure: I've had it for so long it's a permanent fixture in the shop, but for smaller tasks it's just a pain to drag around the shop and worse, it seems to be in the way when I am using it. It is unbeatable for a higher amperage charge, but I seldom need that much current these days. I've been debating on something smaller for a while and really liked the MAC Tools version but just couldn't justify the price. This appears to be identical in every aspect.

Here is the MAC Tools version.
 

zkdiesel

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Oct 6, 2013
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8,467
Location
chicagoland cornfields
It's not officially "fixed", but I have the new signal modifier ordered. Should be here within the next couple of days. That appears to have been the interruption to the data, or at least the erroneous data going to the ECM. There is no way the MAF can drop to zero grams/second when the EGR opens to 30% and still run perfectly. I take that signal wire out of the equation and the MAF signal goes unchanged so that appears to be where the data is being corrupted.

Thanks again Zack, throughout our talk I was able to understand what the ECM needs to see and what those couple of PID's are telling it. I understand the system much better now thanks to you.

I got a 22 transit here you can come fix to thank me
Restraint module thinks it’s been hit and is a module function for it as a computerized inertia switch to disable the fancy ford fuel pump module(relay)

Ford has you do some basic ohm checks on signal wire between fuel pump driver module, restraint module, bcm and pcm. If wires ohm and don’t have shorts to ground it has you wing all those modules at it in a specific order till it says it’s fixed. Guess what I followed that procedure to the T and it still thinks it’s crashed with only that one code in the system and all the modules replaced and programmed. It’s a horrible code that doesn’t really exist in the wild with no good diagnosis testing for its own can system. It’s check these wires and hang this module, didn’t fix it, hang next module and so on and so on till it says now it’s fixed and it’s obviously not
I ripped all the wiring the body company did out by the roots after the first “module replacement” to make sure I wasn’t getting tripped up by anything dumb. Here it sits in my lot last few days as I’m too disgusted to look at it. How we are at engineering level failures or bad new oem modules. The fuel pump module I already swapped for a second new unit, but the other ones are too expensive and too much a pita for PMI to just do a second time for the hell of it.


And to top it off it started and drove out of the building while setting what active code once never to start again while still setting that code. No reason it started, just cause it felt like it, as nothing had been done since my last attempt after a reflash
 
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zmotorsports

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I got a 22 transit here you can come fix to thank me
Restraint module thinks it’s been hit and is a module function for it as a computerized inertia switch to disable the fancy ford fuel pump module(relay)

Ford has you do some basic ohm checks on signal wire between fuel pump driver module, restraint module, bcm and pcm. If wires ohm and don’t have shorts to ground it has you wing all those modules at it in a specific order till it says it’s fixed. Guess what I followed that procedure to the T and it still thinks it’s crashed with only that one code in the system and all the modules replaced and programmed. It’s a horrible code that doesn’t really exist in the wild with no good diagnosis testing for its own can system. It’s check these wires and hang this module, didn’t fix it, hang next module and so on and so on till it says now it’s fixed and it’s obviously not
I ripped all the wiring the body company did out by the roots after the first “module replacement” to make sure I wasn’t getting tripped up by anything dumb. Here it sits in my lot last few days as I’m too disgusted to look at it. How we are at engineering level failures or bad new oem modules. The fuel pump module I already swapped for a second new unit, but the other ones are too expensive and too much a pita for PMI to just do a second time for the hell of it.


And to top it off it started and drove out of the building while setting what active code once never to start again while still setting that code. No reason it started, just cause it felt like it, as nothing had been done since my last attempt after a reflash

Yeah, that does NOT sound like a fun one Zack. What's nearly as frustrating lately, is the fact that we are actually to the point where we are questioning new parts. In my 3+ decades of wrenching I have never questioned more new parts as I have over the past several years, and worse, is actually seen more new part failures.

Diagnose an issue, determine the source of the issue, order the part, then when we install it we say little prayer that THIS part will actually not be one of the many that are junk. It's quite frustrating to say the least. 🤬
 

PugetDude

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The previous dilemma was over the course of the past couple of weeks and not something I was quite willing to share, yet. I was embarrassed that I couldn't figure out my own truck issue and between my frustration with that situation and then having to watch my son going through his trial I just haven't been in the right mind to interact much with society, social or otherwise. I've been kind of a recluse the last few weeks and need to snap out of it.


I have been staying busy in the shop, just not documenting much. I've had a few other vehicles and projects move through the shop, but not being in the mood to talk or share, I've just isolated myself to the shop, cranked up the radio and went about working and without even taking any pictures.

Throughout some of the work I did notice that while performing some testing on vehicles using active testing and not running the vehicles, the battery does have a tendency to drain down and I got tired of lugging my 30+ year old large transformer battery charger around and having the cables draped up and over fenders, so I wanted something a bit more compact and I don't need anything to put out cranking amperage, that's what this old MAC Tools charger is for. This has been my one and only charger in the shop for several decades and has never failed me, but I think it was time to get it some help on a smaller scale.
charger1.jpg


Last week when our MAC Tools rep. came by, I looked at the MT6340B battery maintainer and really liked the compactness of it. Upon a little research, I discovered that the Pro-Logix model is the same exact unit, other than the MAC Tools labeling and sells for over $100 less. I'm all for high quality tools, but I'm not throwing stupid money at them. This Pro-Logix model PL2310 arrived on my doorstep yesterday.
charger2.jpg

The clamp storage on the backside is even kind of a cool idea.
charger3.jpg

I figured I would give it a test drive by letting it charge my lawnmower battery and see how it does on the 2A scale.
charger4.jpg


Overall, I think this will be nice little addition to the shop and one that I may use more than I thought. I think it will even work well for when I have to disconnect batteries from a car to keep the memory circuits alive as it is small enough I can set it in the engine bay and not have heavy cords dragging over fenders or core supports, and better yet, no big transformer to walk around or trip over.
Thanks for the recommendation, Mike.
I needed a new charger, my old Schumacher charger was a casualty of the dump trailer repair when it fell off the hitch and split the case. Still works, but seems be working towards a death rattle.

Home Depot has the PL 2310 on sale for $64.21 with free shipping. Two on the way, the other will go up to the cabin this summer.
 
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zmotorsports

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Thanks for the recommendation, Mike.
I needed a new charger, my old Schumacher charger was a casualty of the dump trailer repair when it fell off the hitch and split the case. Still works, but seems be working towards a death rattle.

Home Depot has the PL 2310 on sale for $64.21 with free shipping. Two on the way, the other will go up to the cabin this summer.

Scott, that's the same price we paid for it when the wife ordered it from the Jungle. Cheapest price I've seen and much better than the $180 for the MAC Tools version.
 

madison069

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Monroeville, PA
Trouble shooting is an art.

We used to draw root cause diagrams to keep up with what we found during investigations and keep our notes together. Then after we found the cause of failure I had to write up the report and provide all of the data and photos to show others around the world what was found, how to identify the failure, and how to repair it. It comes in clutch when you’re working late hours in the night trying to fix a software glitch in the field while you’re in a shop two countries away from the tool. Specially when software wasn’t your specialty yet you’re the only one who can even understand what’s going on and understand the software engineer that you’re working with in several countries away from you and the tools in the field!!

Point is, it’s good to document your steps and findings as you troubleshoot so you’re not spinning your wheels.

I keep my old big roll around transformer battery charger in my garage due to sentimental reason these days as it was a Christmas present from my parents. But I have those smaller transformer chargers I can carry to the car to charge batteries or if I want to let it slowly trickle charge overnight I have those little battery tenders I just clamp on and let it go. Currently the battery tender is on the camaro to keep the battery healthy. I do have a Noco three bank battery tender in my boat and so far it’s a great unit after 2 years of use. We will find out soon if it’s been doing its job over the winter.

I like that funnel drain tube. One of my issue is storing funnels. Currently they just get tossed on the generator in the corner after they been cleaned. Need to come up with a dedicated storage space for funnels, drain pans, and fluid extractor so they are in one spot.
 

fouckhest

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Jul 24, 2013
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Greer, SC
Overall, I think this will be nice little addition to the shop and one that I may use more than I thought. I think it will even work well for when I have to disconnect batteries from a car to keep the memory circuits alive as it is small enough I can set it in the engine bay and not have heavy cords dragging over fenders or core supports, and better yet, no big transformer to walk around or trip over.

Mike - thanks for sharing, I've been in the market for a decent battery charger for a while, but have hesitated to go after one of the big roll around units because of the amount of space they take up for how little they get used.

Also, if anyone else is in the market, this unit happens to be marked down on the amz
 
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zmotorsports

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Trouble shooting is an art.

We used to draw root cause diagrams to keep up with what we found during investigations and keep our notes together. Then after we found the cause of failure I had to write up the report and provide all of the data and photos to show others around the world what was found, how to identify the failure, and how to repair it. It comes in clutch when you’re working late hours in the night trying to fix a software glitch in the field while you’re in a shop two countries away from the tool. Specially when software wasn’t your specialty yet you’re the only one who can even understand what’s going on and understand the software engineer that you’re working with in several countries away from you and the tools in the field!!

Point is, it’s good to document your steps and findings as you troubleshoot so you’re not spinning your wheels.

I keep my old big roll around transformer battery charger in my garage due to sentimental reason these days as it was a Christmas present from my parents. But I have those smaller transformer chargers I can carry to the car to charge batteries or if I want to let it slowly trickle charge overnight I have those little battery tenders I just clamp on and let it go. Currently the battery tender is on the camaro to keep the battery healthy. I do have a Noco three bank battery tender in my boat and so far it’s a great unit after 2 years of use. We will find out soon if it’s been doing its job over the winter.

I like that funnel drain tube. One of my issue is storing funnels. Currently they just get tossed on the generator in the corner after they been cleaned. Need to come up with a dedicated storage space for funnels, drain pans, and fluid extractor so they are in one spot.

Yeah, I am all too familiar with RCA's (Root Cause Analysis) as we have to do them at work anytime we hit one of our triggers. Triggers also have to be evaluated and modified annually to make sure they are valid as things change. I don't particularly enjoy RCA's, but I do understand the value in them, especially when as an enterprise data can be shared between other sites or entities to ward off issues and control costs.

I use my shop journal or notebook to right my thoughts down throughout the process, but over the course of the past few weeks with everything I've had going on in life, I have been writing more about my emotional state and "feelings" more so than data. I don't do well with "feelings" but I've found that by writing them down it at least forces me to acknowledge and deal with them in a positive manner. The data is still there in the journal, but it's been buried amongst the other stuff that I've been struggling with as well.

I have had the small NOCO battery tenders on our Harley's over the years and had excellent results using them, then a couple of years ago I bought a similar NOCO tender for the Camaro when it's not in regular use, which unfortunately is most of the time. :( I need to work on changing that. I had a smaller charger/maintainer that I kept in our race trailer which usually had the race car connected as the trailer was also generally plugged into the house, so it made it easy to keep the outlets live in the trailer. The large MAC battery charger was one of the first pieces of shop equipment I bought back in the late 80's, next to the bead blasting cabinet so it does have sentimental value, but I also use it because it's never let me down and flat works. It's just a bit overkill for use on a regular basis such as just trying to keep a vehicle's battery topped off while performing a lot of diagnosis work.

The magnetic funnel drain tool was kind of an impulse buy. I have always just let the funnels sit on the workbench or tossed them in the solvent tank until the job was completed, then clean up the mess, clean up the funnel, wipe it down and put it back in the storage box in the cabinet so it is clean and ready for use at any given time. This will just let the last bit of fluid drip off into a trap vs. making a mess on the bench or in the solvent tank until the job is done.

I did see someone post on the forum a while back from a member who devised a series of PVC tubing making a multiple faceted funnel holder or drain contraption and although it was impressive, it's just much more than I need nor want on the wall in the shop. I think his was also a storage system as he had a lot of funnels stored on it, I don't store my funnels outside of the cabinet so a "single holer" is good enough for my usage. :bounce:
 
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zmotorsports

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Mike - thanks for sharing, I've been in the market for a decent battery charger for a while, but have hesitated to go after one of the big roll around units because of the amount of space they take up for how little they get used.

Also, if anyone else is in the market, this unit happens to be marked down on the amz

That's the one I had the wife purchase for me Mike. I thought the price was pretty good.
 

ntsqd

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Jan 22, 2005
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1,029
Location
Lower left coast
I note that charger that fouckhest linked claims to be LiPFeO4 compatible. I've been thinking of replacing the failing 2GC AGM's in our camper with one of these batteries (deciding which one is a question all by itself) and am prone to not want the charger that the battery company sells to go with on GP. This charger could be a decent alternative.
 

Xti04

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Joined
Nov 11, 2016
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Glad to see those washers getting changed out on that service! Seen many mashed to the point they were difficult to cut off. I have had some diagnostic nightmares here of late, I have been falling back on experience and finding similarities to things I have seen previously. Still doesnt make it easy, but gives me the encouragement to press on and get it done. Keeping watch on the charger situation as my ancient Schumacher is on its last legs and is on the list of things to get replaced in the next few months. Also diggin that funnel holder. Much cleaner than my 5 gallon bucket but I have multiple funnels in there as well as my grease gums.
 

olsenmotorsports

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Apr 13, 2013
Messages
764
Location
Chicago, IL
I got a 22 transit here you can come fix to thank me
Restraint module thinks it’s been hit and is a module function for it as a computerized inertia switch to disable the fancy ford fuel pump module(relay)

Ford has you do some basic ohm checks on signal wire between fuel pump driver module, restraint module, bcm and pcm. If wires ohm and don’t have shorts to ground it has you wing all those modules at it in a specific order till it says it’s fixed. Guess what I followed that procedure to the T and it still thinks it’s crashed with only that one code in the system and all the modules replaced and programmed. It’s a horrible code that doesn’t really exist in the wild with no good diagnosis testing for its own can system. It’s check these wires and hang this module, didn’t fix it, hang next module and so on and so on till it says now it’s fixed and it’s obviously not
I ripped all the wiring the body company did out by the roots after the first “module replacement” to make sure I wasn’t getting tripped up by anything dumb. Here it sits in my lot last few days as I’m too disgusted to look at it. How we are at engineering level failures or bad new oem modules. The fuel pump module I already swapped for a second new unit, but the other ones are too expensive and too much a pita for PMI to just do a second time for the hell of it.


And to top it off it started and drove out of the building while setting what active code once never to start again while still setting that code. No reason it started, just cause it felt like it, as nothing had been done since my last attempt after a reflash
I will trade with you? I’ve got a 18 Cayenne that overheats only on the freeway after driving for ten minutes. Active shutters for some reason are staying closed above 60mph. There are no codes, money light is off, mode 6 is also clear of any pending’s. It hits code set criteria for circuit low on the shutters, but never sets a code. Normal city driving shutters command and function as they should. Above 60 they shut for good till the next key cycle.

8 channel scope connected to speed, ET and OT, shutter motors, and can +-. No signal drops or can interrupts.

**** it let’s throw some shutters on it. And we never unload the cannon just not our style.

SAME FREAKING PROBLEM

Threw it in storage and focus on something making money for a few days 😂
 

olsenmotorsports

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Apr 13, 2013
Messages
764
Location
Chicago, IL
Mike

Just be careful throwing Lithium charge at a LiFePO4 with any random charger. Double check that voltage on the charger before you do it.

Doing the volume we do we have a few battery chargers of different brands, they are all over the place at the lower price points, I ended up discarding them and bought a few of the new snap on chargers and those have been dead repeatable. Full clarity I am sure they are rebranded just like everything else but I have no idea who makes them.
 

LXCam

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Apr 23, 2013
Messages
19,334
Location
AZ
Mike

Just be careful throwing Lithium charge at a LiFePO4 with any random charger. Double check that voltage on the charger before you do it.

Doing the volume we do we have a few battery chargers of different brands, they are all over the place at the lower price points, I ended up discarding them and bought a few of the new snap on chargers and those have been dead repeatable. Full clarity I am sure they are rebranded just like everything else but I have no idea who makes them.
Granted I don’t have a clue what sensors are used on a Porsche. But what are the chances your input for the engine temp is swapped (hard wired or logic) with a AIT sensor.

Just spit balling Tim.
 

NUTTSGT

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Sep 14, 2009
Messages
51,326
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Northern Central Ohio
Damn Mike, Form-A-Funnel.

Why didn't I think of that before ? The new truck (last year) makes a mess when changing engine oil. It comes out with force and makes a mess, hitting the trans cooler underneath. The large FAF should allow me to wrap it up around the cooler and become a shield to deflect it into the drain pan.


I never had this problem with the F250 with 6.2 and I guess it's an issue with the oil pan for the 7.3 engine.
 

olsenmotorsports

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Joined
Apr 13, 2013
Messages
764
Location
Chicago, IL
Granted I don’t have a clue what sensors are used on a Porsche. But what are the chances your input for the engine temp is swapped (hard wired or logic) with a AIT sensor.

Just spit balling Tim.

Maybe, but data doesnt show that (Short term fuel reacts as expected to the rise in temp) - who knows, It shouldn't be that as PIDS align and at temps around town shutters work perfect. Even ran cardboard to heat it up and shutters did what they were supposed to do - as SOON as it hits 60mph they slam shut till the next key cycle :lol_hitti :ROFLMAO:

Funny how we have to get them out of our sight for a while to regroup before you can stand that POs again huh? And some people will wanna know why your not working on it today!

Right? Can't get a blind bolt started? Take the dog for a Pee Break and it goes in first try lol.
 

ntsqd

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Jan 22, 2005
Messages
1,029
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Lower left coast
The MS-EE that I used to work with always blamed it on the mechanical parts, it was never, ever his code that was at fault. Even when his code was telling the mechanical parts to do two different things at the same time.

Sounds like a fault in the code that is triggered by 60 mph. When asked why I don't own late model vehicles I point to things like this. The old wax actuators for OTR truck radiator shutters weren't always dead-nuts reliable, but at least the guy in the field had a prayer of being able to correct a malfunction.
 

olsenmotorsports

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Joined
Apr 13, 2013
Messages
764
Location
Chicago, IL
The MS-EE that I used to work with always blamed it on the mechanical parts, it was never, ever his code that was at fault. Even when his code was telling the mechanical parts to do two different things at the same time.

Sounds like a fault in the code that is triggered by 60 mph. When asked why I don't own late model vehicles I point to things like this. The old wax actuators for OTR truck radiator shutters weren't always dead-nuts reliable, but at least the guy in the field had a prayer of being able to correct a malfunction.
For sure

I think at this point my guys will probably recommend a module replacement - issue with blind replacement is there is no guarantee. Usually scope data is a smoking gun but we do not have anything off the scope that justifies it. Dealer couldn't figure it out either.

Feel bad for the guy as we are $289 an hour and the dealer is $399 an hour. That adds up QUICK on chasing ghost issues that logic can't explain. We will get it sorted.

Sorry way off topic and I am terribly sorry to hijack a thread. Back to regularly scheduled programming of making cool stuff I wish I had time for!
 

Bigblue&Goldie

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Joined
Mar 12, 2009
Messages
10,785
Location
AZ
Damn Mike, Form-A-Funnel.

Why didn't I think of that before ? The new truck (last year) makes a mess when changing engine oil. It comes out with force and makes a mess, hitting the trans cooler underneath. The large FAF should allow me to wrap it up around the cooler and become a shield to deflect it into the drain pan.


I never had this problem with the F250 with 6.2 and I guess it's an issue with the oil pan for the 7.3 engine.

Grab some tin foil, works great.
 

swsman

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May 5, 2021
Messages
722
Location
Earthbound
Trouble shooting is an art.

We used to draw root cause diagrams to keep up with what we found during investigations and keep our notes together. Then after we found the cause of failure I had to write up the report and provide all of the data and photos to show others around the world what was found, how to identify the failure, and how to repair it. It comes in clutch when you’re working late hours in the night trying to fix a software glitch in the field while you’re in a shop two countries away from the tool. Specially when software wasn’t your specialty yet you’re the only one who can even understand what’s going on and understand the software engineer that you’re working with in several countries away from you and the tools in the field!!

Point is, it’s good to document your steps and findings as you troubleshoot so you’re not spinning your wheels.

I keep my old big roll around transformer battery charger in my garage due to sentimental reason these days as it was a Christmas present from my parents. But I have those smaller transformer chargers I can carry to the car to charge batteries or if I want to let it slowly trickle charge overnight I have those little battery tenders I just clamp on and let it go. Currently the battery tender is on the camaro to keep the battery healthy. I do have a Noco three bank battery tender in my boat and so far it’s a great unit after 2 years of use. We will find out soon if it’s been doing its job over the winter.

I like that funnel drain tube. One of my issue is storing funnels. Currently they just get tossed on the generator in the corner after they been cleaned. Need to come up with a dedicated storage space for funnels, drain pans, and fluid extractor so they are in one spot.
Not trying to hijack Mike's thread, here is an idea I am considering myself.
 

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Bigblue&Goldie

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AZ
Have you tried it on a new 7.3 ? I don't think it will work seeing how much force the oil comes out with. Honestly, I think it would blow right past the foil.

I may be wrong but I have a roll of it in the garage for masking. I can try it in about 3K miles.

Not specifically on a 7.3L, but it's my go to. I use Valvomax setups on my trucks. Worth every penny, but they are slower than just a plug. Filters are the pain in the **** on my stuff. I use foil on my 5.0L F-150 to help with that filter mess. My 6.7L is just big and cumbersome, so it inevitably makes a mess as I unthread it 20x while hot oil burns me.
 
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