Who makes this Snap-on bronze hammer?
- Thread starter shamrock12
- Start date
KnurledNut
Well-known member
Snap-on manufacturers that series themselves.
Apparently it is to someone
four.cycle
Well-known member
It's Snap On. It's brass/bronze. The SO 16 oz steel ball pein hammer is $110.
Leaflessshadetree
Well-known member
A small explosion may change your mind.
KnurledNut
Well-known member
The one that Nupla makes for them that has a solid head is even more expensive.
The one that Nupla makes for them that has a solid head is even more expensive.
I have that one by Nupla; I bought it a few years ago, but I think it was ~$80 then. Amazon has it for $100 now.
KnurledNut
Well-known member
Man, I haven’t looked at non-ferrous hammer prices in quite some time. I am shocked how much they have increased in price.
mike93lx
ALLIANCE MEMBER
. My first thought was martinezI don't give a **** if it's gold plated, only an idiot would pay $148 for that hammer.
WWheeler
Well-known member
That's really not a bad price at all for the Snap-on lifetime guarantee on a solid brass hammer that's going to get the faces beat down to nothing and then replaced by your dealer.
KnurledNut
Well-known member
What would be your choice instead for this type of hammer?
ClineWrench
Well-known member
I have that exact hammer. In fact, I had the orange version since the 90’s, and broke the handle about 4 years ago. My local Snap-on guy replaced it on warranty, no questions asked.
Also, that hammer is worth every penny of what they are asking for it. Bang around some open fuel areas where it’s the only choice you have and you’ll appreciate that it’s not a cheap piece of Chinese junk.
Also, that hammer is worth every penny of what they are asking for it. Bang around some open fuel areas where it’s the only choice you have and you’ll appreciate that it’s not a cheap piece of Chinese junk.
four.cycle
Well-known member
don't know why you guys are even discussing this cheap stuff. come on, up your game and go big. 
(* they need to update their list- they don't even have Martinez listed on there.)
(* they need to update their list- they don't even have Martinez listed on there.)
Agree it’s expensive. Could be affected by copper prices. Then again, I think all the Snap On hammers are expensive. I probably paid this much for a set of 3 soft faced hammers.
For professional users who rely on this hammer every day (thinking maybe industrial users, not average auto techs), this may be a reasonable price for a tool they could potentially wear out every year.
I would like to have a bronze faced dead blow for my machine shop. Lixie makes them, (and also made in the USA). They are also not cheap. And the handles are no where near as nice.
Bear in mind, the one linked above is the 2lb hammer. The one pound hammer most of us would buy is $108. The lixies range in price from $50-75.
Good question, I've been taking stuff apart and putting it back together for 50 years and never once thought I needed a bronze hammer. Maybe if I was working on transmissions or working around explosive devices I would think differently and $148 would be a bargain. I have a Lixie and several no name plastic dead blow hammers. I love Snap On tools and have a bunch. My frustration comes from the prices they charge. What am I missing.
OP
shamrock12
Well-known member
Never heard of Lixie, so I just looked them up. Very nice hammers at more reasonable prices, thank you! USA made to boost! I’m a novice gunsmith and am looking for semi-drilling style bronze hammer for drifting sights with brass punches. No, I don’t need two pounds plus hammer for that but it’s much easier to control by allowing more of the weight do the work rather than more swinging and the risk of messing up if you should miss.
LIXIE SN-E 1-1/4
The longer lasting safety spark resistant striking tool!Features2 Sided head with square and cross face section.Handles feature deep finger grooves for comfort and positive grip.Square NoseFor maximum striking surface in setting tools on machinery, tool making, and assembly operations.Solid...
www.travers.com
Respect. This is a 2lb bronze dead blow.
This is probably a more reasonable comparable:
Lixie Hard Multi Purpose Hammer w/ Hickory Safety Handle, 36 oz. 13" OAL - AB150-H
Shop Lixie Hard Multi Purpose Hammer w/ Hickory Safety Handle, 36 oz. 13" OAL - AB150-H by Penn Tool Co., your trusted partner for quality tools. Join the professionals who trust Penn Tool Co.upgrade now!
www.penntoolco.com
Note price.
OP
shamrock12
Well-known member
Yes they would be except they are fairly expensive and doesn’t fit/work on some of firearms.
I think that’s the wrong one. I think you need this one.Never heard of Lixie, so I just looked them up. Very nice hammers at more reasonable prices, thank you! USA made to boost! I’m a novice gunsmith and am looking for semi-drilling style bronze hammer for drifting sights with brass punches. No, I don’t need two pounds plus hammer for that but it’s much easier to control by allowing more of the weight do the work rather than more swinging and the risk of messing up if you should miss.
LIXIE SN-E 1-1/4
The longer lasting safety spark resistant striking tool!Features2 Sided head with square and cross face section.Handles feature deep finger grooves for comfort and positive grip.Square NoseFor maximum striking surface in setting tools on machinery, tool making, and assembly operations.Solid...
LIXIE DP-B 1/2
Spark proofFeatures2 sided machinist and tapered extended noseIdeal for difficult to reach areasHandles feature deep finger grooves for comfort and positive grip.
www.travers.com
And you might need a couple sizes. I think you’ll be happier with smaller.
I read a while back on a post here bronze is harder than brass and I think brass is softer and less marring; idk when you’d use one or the other tbh but if I was spending $150 I would figure it out and make sure I got the right one the first time
OP
shamrock12
Well-known member
20 oz actually is too light. Some sights can be really tight fittings. I tried 24 oz steel ball pein before and it took significantly more strikes than using my 32 oz steel ball pein. Not to mention the less strikes I can make the less chance of marring the finish. To me more weight and shorter swings equal better control and therefore better results.I think that’s the wrong one. I think you need this one.
LIXIE DP-B 1/2
Spark proofFeatures2 sided machinist and tapered extended noseIdeal for difficult to reach areasHandles feature deep finger grooves for comfort and positive grip.
And you might need a couple sizes. I think you’ll be happier with smaller.
OP
shamrock12
Well-known member
I believe you’re correct which is why I am looking at bronze hammers. I don’t want dimples in hammers. Much easier to grind off mushroomed brass punches.
They are very soft and likely to dimple even with light impacts.
I just checked I actually have two the newer style was upgraded through warranty exchange. It's actually a 24.
OP
shamrock12
Well-known member
I misspoke. Yes bronze hammers still will dimple but not as bad as brass hammers is what I meant.
Just a reminder for everybody. With training or experience you learn how to select the right hammer. Yes, you can hit anything with anything, but there’s a good hammer and a better hammer for most jobs.
In the end, we are matching how much shock we need to overcome friction. In general, I’d advise dead blows are for moving stuff, and solid hammers are for shocking stuff, overcoming significant friction, corrosion etc.
Example: A steel carpenters hammer produces unbelievably high shocks. For just about all carpentry, a titanium hammer produces less shock, but enough to overcome the friction of the nail, is significantly lighter to carry, easier to swing, and way easier on your elbow. Only downside is the cost and you might need an extra swing or 2 to seat a nail.
Selection of head weight is matched to swing room, strength, and control/skill.
Face materials can vary for solid hammers or dead blows to both protect the work, or tool as well as preseving the hammer.
Example: the steel faced Snap On dead blow might work for removing a stuck brake caliper, but it’s really the wrong tool. It’s designed to move material, not shock it. Use a solid steel hammer to crack corrosion loose.
Where the steel faced dead blows shine is where you are hitting a pin punch or a part that needs a push, but whose surface will destroy a soft faced hammer.
For carpentry, as I mentioned, Ti hammers are currently dominating. Note these Stilettos have 10 and 14oz heads but really long handles, which gives them a bit more omphf.
I use the dead blows for hitting/moving wood without leaving elephant tracks. I also much prefer the small one for driving smaller chisels. Chisels need to be pushed not shocked. The big dead blow is really for timber framing or big moving jobs. Currently laying subfloor and this guy easily can move 3/4” plywood I’m standing on without damaging the plywood.
In the end, we are matching how much shock we need to overcome friction. In general, I’d advise dead blows are for moving stuff, and solid hammers are for shocking stuff, overcoming significant friction, corrosion etc.
Example: A steel carpenters hammer produces unbelievably high shocks. For just about all carpentry, a titanium hammer produces less shock, but enough to overcome the friction of the nail, is significantly lighter to carry, easier to swing, and way easier on your elbow. Only downside is the cost and you might need an extra swing or 2 to seat a nail.
Selection of head weight is matched to swing room, strength, and control/skill.
Face materials can vary for solid hammers or dead blows to both protect the work, or tool as well as preseving the hammer.
Example: the steel faced Snap On dead blow might work for removing a stuck brake caliper, but it’s really the wrong tool. It’s designed to move material, not shock it. Use a solid steel hammer to crack corrosion loose.
Where the steel faced dead blows shine is where you are hitting a pin punch or a part that needs a push, but whose surface will destroy a soft faced hammer.
For carpentry, as I mentioned, Ti hammers are currently dominating. Note these Stilettos have 10 and 14oz heads but really long handles, which gives them a bit more omphf.
I use the dead blows for hitting/moving wood without leaving elephant tracks. I also much prefer the small one for driving smaller chisels. Chisels need to be pushed not shocked. The big dead blow is really for timber framing or big moving jobs. Currently laying subfloor and this guy easily can move 3/4” plywood I’m standing on without damaging the plywood.
OP
shamrock12
Well-known member
Good reminder. I actually was using Trusty Cook dead blow ball pein hammers so it goes to show how tight some sights can be! I actually looked at this model with the shorter handle:
36 oz. Dead Blow Ball Peen Hammer
Strike, shape, flatten, and expand metal with our 36 oz steel-faced, hot-cast polyurethane ball peen. Used by leading machinists for maximum durability.
www.trustycook.com
But in my case it sounds like I would need a solid hammer to overcome significant friction.
I can’t picture what you are doing.Good reminder. I actually was using Trusty Cook dead blow ball pein hammers so it goes to show how tight some sights can be! I actually looked at this model with the shorter handle:
36 oz. Dead Blow Ball Peen Hammer
Strike, shape, flatten, and expand metal with our 36 oz steel-faced, hot-cast polyurethane ball peen. Used by leading machinists for maximum durability.
But in my case it sounds like I would need a solid hammer to overcome significant friction.
You are correct in thinking you can swing a light hammer fast or a heavy hammer slow and impart the exact same momentum. The work piece doesn’t care.
If you are hitting a firearm pretty hard I would worry more about how you are holding it. If it takes that much force I feel like something is wrong.
I was witnessing the landing gear getting installed and the pins weren’t lining up so the mechanic went for a BFH. I stopped that guy in his tracks. You can’t wail on stuff and expect everything to be fine. I grabbed the tire package and just pulled it a little and the second pin just slipped in.
I love hammers and use them frequently, but I guess I’m very careful with them. I probably don’t need it, but I’d like the little 8oz snap on ball peen dead blow for the machine shop.
These are both 16oz and really pretty perfect for what I do.
OP
shamrock12
Well-known member
Nothing is wrong. Firearms can work a lot of stuff loose if they are not tight. Sights are something that must fit really good or else the recoil can move them around and that affects your accuracy / point of impact.
As mentioned before, it is much easier to control larger hammers with short strokes. Less chance of missing or glancing off the punch and mashing up the firearms. Also the less number of strokes you make the less chance of marring up the surface to cleanup/repair.
KnurledNut
Well-known member
The Snap-on is not a dead blow.
Fedwrench
ALLIANCE MEMBER
2.5 lb. Brass Hammer with Super Grip (9029WR)
2.5 lb. Brass Hammer with Super Grip///brand_for_product_detail=Wright Tool,close_out=No,companydescription=Wright Tool - Made in the USA,condition=New,condition_google=new,cost=74.680000,countrymade=Wright Tool - Made in the...
www.harryepstein.com
I know you peeps are looking at Bronze hammers but, these brass versions from Epsteins might serve you well
I have a Snappy Bronze hammer as originally linked but, can't remember ever using it.
KnurledNut
Well-known member
I’m of the opinion that options are always good.
Even just a big hunk of brass rod (talking in the 1” range) is a huge asset.
It may only be needed occasionally or never, but if you have it, you can use it.
For the guy that started this thread though, if you are using brass punches, I’d just grab a steel hammer.
Even just a big hunk of brass rod (talking in the 1” range) is a huge asset.
It may only be needed occasionally or never, but if you have it, you can use it.
For the guy that started this thread though, if you are using brass punches, I’d just grab a steel hammer.
Stick-man
Well-known member
I still have my orange one from the 90's! I believe it is still in new condition because I am waiting until I wear out my other non snappy brass hammers! LOL
KnurledNut
Well-known member
The Snap-on hammers in general are very comfortable to use, but fluids and chemicals do take their toll on the handle materials. Sure they will likely warranty it, but still a consideration. I like wood handles for this reason. The original Nupla (before sourcing offshore) was heavily used in the industrial environment I was involved with and they really took abuse well. Thor makes some quality hammers, but no bronze.
Another option is to get a chunk of bronze and make your own, something smiths and machinists commonly take pride in doing.
Aluminum bronze (AL-BR) and beryllium copper (CU-BE) are some other hammer choices with a greater combined hardness.
Another option is to get a chunk of bronze and make your own, something smiths and machinists commonly take pride in doing.
Aluminum bronze (AL-BR) and beryllium copper (CU-BE) are some other hammer choices with a greater combined hardness.
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Wow I didn’t know that. Can I just ask, can you confirm because you own it? I recognize the catalog doesn’t mention “free flowing shot” like the other hammers. And it’s not under the dead blow section, it’s in soft face hammers. Are the rubber faced hammers aIso not dead blows?
Reason I ask is the HBBT looks just like the steel versions and is listed as “bronze tipped”, which suggests to me it’s the exact same as the ball peens with bronze faces substituted for the steel. Also “bronze tipped” sounds different from “solid bronze”.
One more OT question. Can anyone confirm the rubber faced hammers’ faces are replaceable? I assume they screw on like other rubber hammers.
TIA. Probably going to buy more Snap On hammers!
KnurledNut
Well-known member
That is correct, as I pictured.