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How would you route the mini split drain here?

ps2cho

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Got my indoor unit mounted today for the garage.
Used these inserts to ensure 100% no kinks in the lineset as I bent it close to the wall, worked a charm!

I have gone straight down the wall, and plan to use a flexible piece for the final run into the side of the outdoor unit.

How would you all recommend I route the drain hose? Cut a hole in one of the straight runs and have it come out the side? Ideas?

garageminisplit1.jpggarageminisplit2.jpg
 
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PCustoms

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I'm confused by your question but the jog in the lineset cover looks bad IMHO.

Can you move the box over?

Edit: guess not, wire is already in far right knockout

1745104475697.jpeg
 

PCustoms

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Just drill a hole in the 90 when you start routing things to the left, and let the drain poke out an inch or so
 
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ps2cho

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Cant move the AC disconnect over because its against a stud and as far in the garage as I can get it. Further hits the water heater unfortunately so its the only spot. I'm not too bothered with the top piece slightly because I would prefer to have the indoors portion where it is right now. Its the best place with exactly 12" clearance so Im not wasting space inside.

My "go left" is just with a flexible piece. I guess thats really the only option.
 

PCustoms

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My "go left" is just with a flexible piece. I guess thats really the only option.

Will you have a hard corner where I circled, or just a gradual angle like in yellow?

1000002156.png

You've got to poke it out somewhere. Mine did a 90 Soni just poked it thru, path of least resistance as it's gravity
 

WildBill

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I ran my shop AC drain with the lines mostly to the compressor, then ran it down behind and under it to drain and be sorta hidden. I zip tied it to one of the compressor stand legs. I have poked a hole at the bottom of the cover as PCustoms described on many other installs though.
 
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ps2cho

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Is the flexible piece supposed to end right at the lineset ports, or is the general idea to end it on the wall and just leave a small amount of the lineset insulation exposed between the wall and the outside unit?

On my other 9k unit I installed a few years ago, I routed the entire flexible piece into the unit and it worked fine, I liked the added protection. But now I wonder if thats actually intended?
 

Notgrownup

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Where you have it circled in red, that’s where I exited mine. I think I drilled a hole at the bottom and caulked it in the opening.
 
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ps2cho

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Would recommend a surge protection device either within the outside unit at the installation termination block (MOVs/transorbs) or in the disconnect box. Technicality the best place is in the outside unit.

Looks like pioneer offers one but out of stock. Is this overkill or worth the cost?

I don’t have surge protectors on my main house heat pumps and they have been on the house 20+ years. Is it mini splits are more sensitive?
 

PCustoms

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Looks like pioneer offers one but out of stock. Is this overkill or worth the cost?

I don’t have surge protectors on my main house heat pumps and they have been on the house 20+ years. Is it mini splits are more sensitive?
Just buy whatever the store has in stock and wire it into your outdoor disconnect
 
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ps2cho

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Just buy whatever the store has in stock and wire it into your outdoor disconnect
Gotcha. No particular brand better than others?
…now after my roasting on the Eaton panel my electrician installed…o_O got to verify this stuff
 

mike93lx

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Looks like pioneer offers one but out of stock. Is this overkill or worth the cost?

I don’t have surge protectors on my main house heat pumps and they have been on the house 20+ years. Is it mini splits are more sensitive?
I use them on all units at the disconnect

 
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mike93lx

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Is there a reason not to put a surge protector at the subpanel instead and protect everything from there rather than the AC disconnect?

The closer you are to the equipment, the better protected it is.

I have surge units on all my a/c's as well as in my panels. The more the merrier.
 
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pcmeiners

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As to placement, the closer to the item to protect the better. Personally I just used MOVs and transorbs purchased on Ebay for a few bucks . If you have no experience with individual components just get the Pioneer surge protector and mount at the disconnect.

"I have surge units on all my a/c's as well as in my panels. The more the merrier."

Same here.

As to the question as to a minisplit need for surge protection. Most devices with electronics are not protected well, if any from surges/spikes, lightning EMF. If protected with some surge protection generally they have some minimal surge component just to cover their warranty liability. As pointed out by Mike, the more the better.

As to why surge protection closest to the minisplit is best, if lightning EMF (electromotive force) forms on the power lines (including the ground wire) to the device the pulse is traveling both ways, to the device and to the main breaker panel. A surge protector at the breaker panel is not going to help much as the pulse will reach the minisplit before the EMF surge reaches the surge protection device at the breaker panel. If the surge or EMF is coming from the street side of the main breaker box, then a surge protector at the breaker box would help protect minisplits. That said, if you get a very close lightning hit, the EMF could induce a current pulse which no surge protector will take care of. :(

"I don’t have surge protectors on my main house heat pumps and they have been on the house 20+ years. Is it mini splits are more sensitive?"

Actually the new heat pumps have far more electronics than the older technology, so yes they are more susceptible to power line anomalies and lightning issues. ANYTHING with electronics is more susceptible.
 
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ps2cho

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thank you both -- looks like I need to order quite a few and throw them on both my main heat pumps and the 9k and new 24k units, thanks!
Look simple enough to install with a pigtail and wago's
 

pcmeiners

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Get one for your submerged well pump also, if you have a well.

If your not afraid to make your own surge protectors, for under $10 you can place MOVs or transorbs on your minisplit's terminal block or in the disconnect. I get large capacity MOVs (rated for your minisplit's voltage) off Ebay and wire as this video mentioned below describes. The only difference is I use (3) MOV's in parallel per wire of the of the supply line, instead of just one MOV, a total of (9) MOVs.

Search google for the following.......

Metal Oxide Varistor | How to connect mov in power circuit | Malayalam​

the owner does not allow a link to work directly, lame.
 
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PCustoms

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Get one for your submerged well pump also, if you have a well.

If your not afraid to make your own surge protectors, for under $10 you can place MOVs or transorbs on your minisplit's terminal block or in the disconnect. I get large capacity MOVs (rated for your minisplit's voltage) off Ebay and wire as this video mentioned below describes. The only difference is I use (3) MOV's in parallel per wire of the of the supply line, instead of just one MOV, a total of (9) MOVs.

Search google for the following.......

Metal Oxide Varistor | How to connect mov in power circuit | Malayalam​

the owner does not allow a link to work directly, lame.

We have people freak out because the NEC says they have to use a torque wrench and they can't find the right one,then in other posts we have instructions how to make a DIY surge suppressor....
 
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ps2cho

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Well after many hours and one half of the lineset kinked and in the trash finally got the run done.
Note to self next time I need better spacing…

The plastic anti-kink lines were an absolute life saver I don’t think I could have routed it like this without them.

Naturally I didn’t have a 27mm crows foot so on order but used my gear wrench electronic torque wrench @90 degrees to ensure the smaller 1/4 line was torqued correctly.
 

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ps2cho

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Flares torqued to 58nm which with a 12’o clock position I think the math works to 70nm which should be good.

Haven’t even used nitrogen yet and it’s pulling down to 220 and holding after 10mins.

Tomorrow I’ll get a triple evac with nitrogen going and I expect low 100’s to finish.
 

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housewolf

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As to placement, the closer to the item to protect the better. Personally I just used MOVs and transorbs purchased on Ebay for a few bucks . If you have no experience with individual components just get the Pioneer surge protector and mount at the disconnect.

"I have surge units on all my a/c's as well as in my panels. The more the merrier."

Same here.

As to the question as to a minisplit need for surge protection. Most devices with electronics are not protected well, if any from surges/spikes, lightning EMF. If protected with some surge protection generally they have some minimal surge component just to cover their warranty liability. As pointed out by Mike, the more the better.

As to why surge protection closest to the minisplit is best, if lightning EMF (electromotive force) forms on the power lines (including the ground wire) to the device the pulse is traveling both ways, to the device and to the main breaker panel. A surge protector at the breaker panel is not going to help much as the pulse will reach the minisplit before the EMF surge reaches the surge protection device at the breaker panel. If the surge or EMF is coming from the street side of the main breaker box, then a surge protector at the breaker box would help protect minisplits. That said, if you get a very close lightning hit, the EMF could induce a current pulse which no surge protector will take care of. :(

"I don’t have surge protectors on my main house heat pumps and they have been on the house 20+ years. Is it mini splits are more sensitive?"

Actually the new heat pumps have far more electronics than the older technology, so yes they are more susceptible to power line anomalies and lightning issues. ANYTHING with electronics is more susceptible.
Good advice. I’m finding out right now I should have. The main board on my Mitsubishi fried a couple of weeks ago. I got the part ($500) under warranty after the second try. They told me they didn’t have to cover it if there’s no surge protection. Fortunately I had (retired now) a work relationship with the rep so they took care of it. My surge protector should be here any day now
 
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ps2cho

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Left 400psi for 3hrs and no movement along with using "Big Blue" bubbles. Ran another shot of nitrogen to 10psi, evac'd again and now its down to 110 microns. Closed off the valve and will verify it doesnt rise much.
 
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ps2cho

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Felt good about the final vacuum at 110 after 1hr sitting. released refrigerant purged valves and she’s running great!
 

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ps2cho

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between the AG3000 and MARS any preference? It appears the AG3000 might be slightly newer?
I will be planning to buy for all the units at the house.
 

mike93lx

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between the AG3000 and MARS any preference? It appears the AG3000 might be slightly newer?
I will be planning to buy for all the units at the house.
I have no experience with an AG3000, but have bought and installed 6 of the Mars, but for not better reason that they came up in a search on SupplyHouse and the price was good. With that said, the Mars is rated for 22k and the AG3000 is 100k.., so I'd likely be buying the AG3000 if I needed more
 
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