To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

What did you do "IN" your garage today?

To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
B

Burt Shaver

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 7, 2023
Messages
1,281
Location
Iroquois, Ontario Canada
IMG_3951.jpegIMG_3953.jpegIMG_3957.jpegIMG_3958.jpegTested out a new procedure to restore old faded hoods on an old badly faded wrecked Seadoo hood (top 2 pics) seemed to work pretty good so I used that process on my 95Xp, have to zoom in on the bottom picture to see the difference. I did the left half of the hood quickly just to get an idea of the results. Going to work good. Later this summer I will take that decal off, take the gauges out of the hood and get her cleaned up.
 
C

cannuck

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 30, 2021
Messages
4,661
Location
Rural SK
bugnut said:
Spent more time measuring on the crank and the rear main bearing, put an indicator on both surfaces and then gently moved, bearing moved more than the indicator could measure, so greater than .028", crank moved more than .040" so this is not good. Left it set up so I can digest the numbers and figure out if I have more questions.

Put two new tires and rims, that I picked up from my tire savant, in the stack of parts ready for installation on the baja. Thinking it would be nice to replace the lug bolts, with studs. Gotta find out who sells them and if they are short enough for the aluminum wheels.
Click to expand...
The rear main should not be able to move at all, and crank-to-main flange end play is 4 - 5 thou (I am using inches for y'all down there). 0.028 - 0.040" is repairable with first oversize thrust flange and there is (or at least was??) a 2mm oversize thrust flange (i.e. 0.080") - so case can be salvaged - IF you have access to a shop that can line bore PROPERLY. The original VW tooling was a set of manual reamers, so "back in the day" it was a quick facing of the case (some used a heavy glass plate and grinding paste, studs and dowels out to allow and scuff it a few minutes by hand. There were reamers for bore and end thrust faces. I am mentioning this because very few people alive seem to have the original (and extremely accurate and repeatable) tooling. If you use someone with boring bars, tool setup becomes a critical variable. I have seen all kinds of online videos with DIY boring setups being hand fed and turned with drills. While this sort-of-might work, just not what I could recommend. The surface finish from a reamer is far, far better than a single point boring bar can produce. At the price of machine shop time these days a new case could be more cost effective.

Just thought I should also explain: the facing of a good case would allow a return to standard bearing sizes and correct bearing crush. In a not so good one, it would allow one to easily find center main or center cam bearing alignment problems. Cases start out true, but stress relief after casting and machining move them a bit and temperature and fastener torque variations over long time can move them a fair bit.
 
Last edited:
H

Hooked

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 24, 2010
Messages
445
Location
League City, Texas
Put the second new air filter in my '94 7.3 diesel and fell back to the old one again. Seems the manufacturers (Wix and Motorcraft) are making the filter material much thinner now so I get engine/air noise in the cab with these new filters. Anyone have a recommendation for a good (heavy duty) replacement?

While doing this I also thought it was probably time to clean, or replace, the CDR valve. I elected to clean it. ;)
 
C

cannuck

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 30, 2021
Messages
4,661
Location
Rural SK
Hooked said:
Put the second new air filter in my '94 7.3 diesel and fell back to the old one again. Seems the manufacturers (Wix and Motorcraft) are making the filter material much thinner now so I get engine/air noise in the cab with these new filters. Anyone have a recommendation for a good (heavy duty) replacement?

While doing this I also thought it was probably time to clean, or replace, the CDR valve. I elected to clean it. ;)
Click to expand...
Not sure if it will fit, but IIRC if you can get air to it the factory retrofit severe duty (Donaldspn) made with filtration medium developed for Desert Storm flows far better than any aftermarket or original element and filtration is far, far better. These were developed for later 7.3 that use front air inlet behind grill but I use the side (inner fender) entrance as well. IIRC your truck only has side entrance?
 
6

69charged

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 20, 2007
Messages
469
Location
carberry, manitoba
Some small stuff on the boat.
Polished up the docking lights.
IMG_5108.jpeg

Then tightened up my steering wheel. The tilt mechanism would flop around and I thought it was bushings that were shot. Turns out it was as easy as tightening the Phillips screws that hold it to the helm. Plus added blue loctite.
IMG_5107.jpeg

Then a final coat on the sub box. I’ll test it out tonight and see how it sounds. Should be better than the crappy box that was in there.
IMG_5116.jpeg
 
O

Old Man Roger

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 6, 2017
Messages
17,864
Location
Palm Coast Florida
Fixed a free breaker bar. It’s one of those extendable bars. The release lever was stuck, so of course I hit it with a BFH.LOL

That did the trick, it shot springs, clips, and ball bearings out at a high rate of speed. Luckily they were easy to find, so I put it all back together and dosed it with some oil.

I already have all different length and drive size breaker bars, so I’m not sure what purpose this one will serve, but I don’t have to explain to you guys why I’m happy to have it.lol

An added plus, it makes a great sound when you let the head hang down and pull the release, kinda like when you chamber a shot gun shell.

IMG_0126.jpegIMG_0128.jpeg
 
H

Hooked

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 24, 2010
Messages
445
Location
League City, Texas
cannuck said:
Not sure if it will fit, but IIRC if you can get air to it the factory retrofit severe duty (Donaldspn) made with filtration medium developed for Desert Storm flows far better than any aftermarket or original element and filtration is far, far better. These were developed for later 7.3 that use front air inlet behind grill but I use the side (inner fender) entrance as well. IIRC your truck only has side entrance?
Click to expand...
Thanks for this info. I'll check on the Donaldson filter availability/fit(round 12"diameter x 6" height). My air intake is front entrance mounted next to the top of the radiator.
 
C

cannuck

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 30, 2021
Messages
4,661
Location
Rural SK
Hooked said:
Thanks for this info. I'll check on the Donaldson filter availability/fit(round 12"diameter x 6" height). My air intake is front entrance mounted next to the top of the radiator.
Click to expand...
I thought you had a 7.3 diesel??? The Donaldson for that engine is a complete system with a cube like box. They were offered as a factory retrofit and option because Ford was losing literally hundreds of engines a year in the Athabasca oil sands around Ft. McMurray AB. The original recangular elements would plug up and collapse, dusting the engine terminally. The first fix was a deeper filter pleat and an airbox with a support for middle of filter - but did not work worth a damn. The Robertson box and element are in my experience the best air filter ever fitted to any car or truck.
 
6

69charged

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 20, 2007
Messages
469
Location
carberry, manitoba
harley jim said:
20250424_190926.jpg
Put new cab mount bushings in my truck today.
20250424_190841.jpg
I think they were a bit shot.
20250424_190907.jpg
Got some urethane pieces.
Now the body lines between the cabin and box are even!
Click to expand...
Wow! Yeah, those needed changing. Besides the body lines, could you hear/feel the cab hitting something on bumps? I would guess you co feel something with how they looked!!!
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
O

Old Man Roger

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 6, 2017
Messages
17,864
Location
Palm Coast Florida
Magnum440d100 said:
Watched it floodIMG_6150.jpeg

Waters receded.

Got some cleanup to do.

Not sure anything’s worth getting H.O. involved. I’ll know tomorrow after the rest has receded.

Oof.

Wish me luck!
Click to expand...
Oh faaaack! From the looks of it, I’d might try just hosing the the mud out. I mean everything that’s gonna get wet is already wet.
 
M

Magnum440d100

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 2, 2018
Messages
3,581
Location
Indiana
Old Man Roger said:
Oh faaaack! From the looks of it, I’d might try just hosing the the mud out. I mean everything that’s gonna get wet is already wet.
Click to expand...
I like the way you think lol

Tomorrow I’ll start doing some clean up. Just gotta wait for everything to recede

There’s really nothing that I’d cry over if it were toast. Even that plasma monitor isn’t the greatest.

The headers to the truck are under the truck. Those might’ve gotten flooded.

It looks messy in there, but I really was JUST reorganizing everything. But fortunately nothing valuable was on the ground.
 
O

Old Man Roger

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 6, 2017
Messages
17,864
Location
Palm Coast Florida
Magnum440d100 said:
I like the way you think lol

Tomorrow I’ll start doing some clean up. Just gotta wait for everything to recede

There’s really nothing that I’d cry over if it were toast. Even that plasma monitor isn’t the greatest.

The headers to the truck are under the truck. Those might’ve gotten flooded.

It looks messy in there, but I really was JUST reorganizing everything. But fortunately nothing valuable was on the ground.
Click to expand...
And now that you know it can flood, don’t ever leave anything valuable on the floor. Maybe get some of those plastic pallets?
 
J

JEFFREYWisconsin

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 9, 2021
Messages
380
Today I accessed the ability to put one of those thicker seals at the bottom of the main garage door on the house. I get a little water coming in when it rains hard. So, I am not a garage door guy...kinda clueless. Everything would be self explanatory on the install, except the ends.

Anyone have advice? The end bracket needs to be removed... The under tension aspect concerns me, this feel like I could lose a body part? See what I mean?

I could maybe cut around and leave the black piece in under the bracket? I wanna do it correctly but also keep my eyes.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_1951.jpeg
    IMG_1951.jpeg
    562.2 KB · Views: 42
  • IMG_1952.jpeg
    IMG_1952.jpeg
    412.4 KB · Views: 41
O

Old Man Roger

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 6, 2017
Messages
17,864
Location
Palm Coast Florida
JEFFREYWisconsin said:
Today I accessed the ability to put one of those thicker seals at the bottom of the main garage door on the house. I get a little water coming in when it rains hard. So, I am not a garage door guy...kinda clueless. Everything would be self explanatory on the install, except the ends.

Anyone have advice? The end bracket needs to be removed... The under tension aspect concerns me, this feel like I could lose a body part? See what I mean?

I could maybe cut around and leave the black piece in under the bracket? I wanna do it correctly but also keep my eyes.
Click to expand...
If the cable isn’t connected to it, I would think just put the door halfway down and there shouldn’t be any tension on it. But I don’t know **** about garage doors.lol
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom