General Geoff
Well-known member
My recently purchased Wilton 1765 that I purchased for use outdoors, with custom 464 naval brass jaws made by Logan over at https://www.antiquevises.com/
The VISES of Garage Journal
- Thread starter mjozefow
- Start date
Shiftless
Well-known member
Yes, IIRC, they are flat. I might have an example at home but I am away right now.
That looks good!Before, and a couple of outside and one inside after. What do you all think? Is this paint pretty close to Verde Green, with a blue or green tint depending on light and shadow?
Next I'm going to try my hand at making some soft jaws for it. I got brass and aluminum for that this week. Will try the brass first. Waiting on a counterbore.
Midwest Shop Supply
Well-known member
Hey all, if anyone is ever looking for the rubber bumpers/stoppers for their vise spindle handle I supply them here. Check it out if your interested. I also have many other products for vises as well.
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Midwest Shop Supply
Well-known member
Thank you! I was asked to remove the link because sometime GJ bans people who post links, but If anyone needs it again I can get it to you other ways.
Midwest Shop Supply
Well-known member
Thank you! I'm very glad to know your happy with them, that is the most rewarding piece when making these parts!
Will they let you post the stuff you have for sale on the classifieds board?
Midwest Shop Supply
Well-known member
I'm not sure, i've not tried that. I was just told to never do it again. lol.
Speaking of selling stuff, here's a Ward & Payne vise for sale (not mine). I didn't know they made vises. It's in England so shipping is crazy to the US. I saw where No 00 was on the list. This is a no 1. Looks like a fresh coat of "liquid restore " was applied. 
Maui
Well-known member
This Emmert 4A had 56 bids on it and just sold for $4,469 on ebay.
This Emmert 4A had 56 bids on it and just sold for $4,469 on ebay.
Seems to be the going rate...
I've been lusting after one of those for over a decade!
Seems to be the going rate...
Yeah, me too. It's going to take a lot of luck for me to get one.
Patrickm82
Well-known member
Got my C1 refreshed and made it my daily user, replacing a Prentiss 21. Pain in the *** drilling 5/8 plate for new mounting holes, but it’s done. Also picked up a couple little guys at yard sales this weekend. A yankee 993 with swivel base and a 3”er that I’m not familiar with. I can’t read the first 2 letters on the meatball, **avens Vineland NJ. Does anybody recognize it? I would appreciate the help.
RTM
Well-known member
Patrickm82
Well-known member
Tell me about it, I was about to post the answer and he had the answer 3 minutes before I was going to post. Lol
CRSINMICH
Well-known member
1910 Jersey Leavens Vises
By 1911 they had sold out to Stanley
I think that you can see some small remnants of the original "brown baking japan" finish on the stem of yours.
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Tom Graham
Well-known member
Here’s one more Parker 594 from the later Union-Parker era. This photo angle of the face shows neither the spindle saddle nor the solid steel plate (common to the post-Union era.) Also has simpler Union-Parker stamped branding (but without the handshake logo.) Does show tension spring spindle handle.
This sample is missing the swivel base and one jaw insert (of simpler design.)
Though this is a Union-Parker era, I note the absence of an “A” or “B” model number suffix.
I will be interested in hearing any comments or observations from others about the similarities between the 59x and 79x Union-Parker product lines (and the casting lines of the static base and embossed numbers on the movable jaw.) I don’t notice either of these model lines in any Parker catalogs - not even the (final?) 1965 catalog.
This sample is missing the swivel base and one jaw insert (of simpler design.)
Though this is a Union-Parker era, I note the absence of an “A” or “B” model number suffix.
I will be interested in hearing any comments or observations from others about the similarities between the 59x and 79x Union-Parker product lines (and the casting lines of the static base and embossed numbers on the movable jaw.) I don’t notice either of these model lines in any Parker catalogs - not even the (final?) 1965 catalog.
Attachments
Hello all, so the Athol 644 1/2 is in the process now. The swivel jaw pin does look to be threaded. That means that I cannot simply force the pin up from inside the vise. I am still working on getting it loose. Anyway, I am doing a video series on it and here is the link if anyone is interested.
youtube.com
Athol 644 1/2 Vise Rebuild
This video series covers the rebuilding of a 1930’s Athol Machine & Foundry Company 4 ½” Model 644 ½ Swivel Jaw Swivel Jaw Vise.
youtube.com
Shiftless
Well-known member
Well done! 
It was certainly a struggle to get that blankety blank swivel bolt out wasn’t it?
It was certainly a struggle to get that blankety blank swivel bolt out wasn’t it?
Shiftless, thank you. After I soaked the vise, I discovered that there was a ¼” set screw that comes from the non-lock side of the vise and was absolutely causing the binding on the swivel base screw. There was no way for me to know about it until I got it cleaned up a bit. Lesson learned and I will cover it in the second video.
I am thinking that heat is really the only option for the swivel jaw pin.
I am thinking that heat is really the only option for the swivel jaw pin.
Shiftless
Well-known member
Many of us
bulletpruf
Well-known member
Athol 616 just showed up for sale for $225 - it's about 30 minutes away on FBMP. I'm full up on vises, and I just don't have the bandwidth to break free and go get it. It's been up for sale for about 20 minutes, and it may be pending sale by now.
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Midwest Shop Supply
Well-known member
Here is my Reed 405 that had a swivel jaw pin, stuck swivel jaw, swivel base, and swivel base center pin before and after pictures. The little that is left of the red paint I removed, i'll probably have to attack it with paint thinner or something like that as a wire wheel just isn't getting it. But the swivel jaw pin is free, the swivel base is free, and the swivel base pin is free now!
Attachments
Shiftless
Well-known member
Red paint in the crevices is certainly a problem. Acetone might do the trick. In the old days, many of us used paint stripper that contained methylene chloride. That stuff was banned.
If nothing works, you can try a trick that I learned from somebody. Put a tiny dab of dark gray paint into the hole and then wipe off the surface leaving just a small amount to cover the red. It will be WAY less noticeable.
A few years ago, I bought a new-in-box but rusty Wilton at a pawn shop... I tried to strip the paint off, but couldn't find anything that would even start to remove it. I finally bought two gallons of cheap DOT type 3 brake fluid and soaked the vise parts overnight...
It worked pretty well...
After refinishing...
I know the vise had never been used because the jaws were still coated with cosmoline and the 'QC' inspection stickers were still on it...
-Bear
It worked pretty well...
After refinishing...
I know the vise had never been used because the jaws were still coated with cosmoline and the 'QC' inspection stickers were still on it...
-Bear
Shiftless
Well-known member
Bear:
Thats a good tip. Brake fluid dissolves paint quite well doesn't it?
Have you tried to re-use it for more paint stripping? If you don’t keep it in a sealed container it will absorb water from the atmosphere. That may or may not inhibit its ability to remove paint in the future.
Do you have a source for brake fluid at less than $25/gallon?
Thats a good tip. Brake fluid dissolves paint quite well doesn't it?
Have you tried to re-use it for more paint stripping? If you don’t keep it in a sealed container it will absorb water from the atmosphere. That may or may not inhibit its ability to remove paint in the future.
Do you have a source for brake fluid at less than $25/gallon?
Midwest Shop Supply
Well-known member
That’s a great idea! Thanks for sharing, I’ll try acetone first and see if that works
Beerhippie
Well-known member
Aside from the Wilton branding and the rotation lock (and some customization), that's the spittin' image of my Roughneck:A few years ago, I bought a new-in-box but rusty Wilton at a pawn shop... I tried to strip the paint off, but couldn't find anything that would even start to remove it. I finally bought two gallons of cheap DOT type 3 brake fluid and soaked the vise parts overnight...
It worked pretty well...
After refinishing...
I know the vise had never been used because the jaws were still coated with cosmoline and the 'QC' inspection stickers were still on it...
-Bear
I kept it in a sealed 5 gallon bucket and used it several times before it absorbed enough moisture to quit working...
This was pre-inflation, so I'm sure it was a good bit cheaper then... IIRC, it was Supertech brand from Walmart.
But, for removing the remaining paint from corners and crevices, you could brush the fluid on, then maybe put it in a plastic bag to keep the part wet... and let it sit for 24 or 30 hours or whatever it takes. It wouldn't take a lot of fluid and should work as well, I would think.
-Bear
four.cycle
Well-known member
^ Yes... brake fluid will definitely remove paint. For a time here in the early 1970's, there were a rash of vandalism cases where punks were pouring brake fluid all over other peoples' cars - poured it onto the roof. Made a hell of a mess.
I was living in a 1947-built house and wanted to repaint the interior, which involved removing and repainting the louvered furnace grates, all of which had multiple layers of paint on them - well baked on. I tried all kinds of stuff - the old strippers, sandpaper, etc. Nothing would remove the paint.
I put a 5-gallon canning kettle full of water on top of a two-burner coleman stove out on the patio and brought it to a full boil and tossed the furnace grates in and boiled them for a couple hours. The paint came off down to bare metal.
The stove never worked properly again.
I was living in a 1947-built house and wanted to repaint the interior, which involved removing and repainting the louvered furnace grates, all of which had multiple layers of paint on them - well baked on. I tried all kinds of stuff - the old strippers, sandpaper, etc. Nothing would remove the paint.
I put a 5-gallon canning kettle full of water on top of a two-burner coleman stove out on the patio and brought it to a full boil and tossed the furnace grates in and boiled them for a couple hours. The paint came off down to bare metal.
The stove never worked properly again.
Midwest Shop Supply
Well-known member
Thank you! I’ll give that a try!
Beerhippie
Well-known member
Red Devil (or similar) lye crystals can be found in the plumbing dept. of your local hardware store. Mix it at about 1 cup/half-gallon of water (always add lye to water--as you oughter), heat to near-boiling--or use hot in electrolysis or an ultrasonic cleaner--and paint is gone. So is grease, oil and grunge. Used with electrolysis, all rust will be gone in an hour or so.
Aluminum and cadmium are the main metals that react poorly with lye--so don't use it on those. Other common metals--brass, copper, bronze, zinc and all steel/iron alloys--are fine.
Much cheaper and faster--just be sure to wear some PPE and don't get it on you.
Shiftless
Well-known member
One question… how do you get rid of the lye solution after you are finished stripping a few parts? I asked one guy about getting rid of liquid waste where he lives and he said with a straight face… “every body around here just pours it into the river”.
Beerhippie
Well-known member
Down the drain--it's sold as drain cleaner, after all. Might not want to do that if you're on a septic tank.
The lye solution lasts a long time, so if you can have sealed storage--like that screw-on lid for a 5 gal. bucket--you can keep on usin' it.