VISE REPAIR 101 all vise repairs, lubricants, sources for parts and the tricks to fix

[SouthernIllinois]

Livin’ the good life… fixin’ old vises and
hanging out on Garage Journal with the gang of virtual friends.

Thanks.

Working my way up to stripping this, getting it on the rotisserie and giving it the Full Monte

 

[Shiftless]

Drool emoji here

Thanks.

Working my way up to stripping this, getting it on the rotisserie and giving it the Full Monte

 

[Patrickm82]

Nice looking shop @SouthernIllinois!

 

[drivesitfar]

Great job on that little vise. When you first posted it I thought I was looking at a lot of drilled holes in the tops of the jaws.

Best of luck finding a good spot for it cause even if you don’t use it much just walking by it might make you smile thinking about dad or gramps working with it.

Thanks for the detailed restoration notes too!!

 

[Outlawmws]

A lot of what looks like dings along the top was in some sort of thick, ancient putty or caulk that was smeared all over the top of the jaws.

I was thinking maybe Bondo. the good stuff from days gone by was really hard, and I think got harder as it aged.

 

[SouthernIllinois]

I was thinking maybe Bondo. the good stuff from days gone by was really hard, and I think got harder as it aged.

Once I got past the crust of it, it was soft but thick and boy was it’s stuck on there good.

 

[Midwest Shop Supply]

Thank you!

I didn't have to fill anything.

Basically all I did was:

1. Soaked it in Corrosion-X and PB Blaster to break the frozen parts free.
2. Disassembled it.
3. Sandblasted the vise body.
4. Chased the threads with a tap.
5. Used a die grinder to remove rust from the handles and polishing rouge to shine them up.
6. Used an angle sander with 80 & 120 grit to shine up the areas of the vise body I wanted in bare metal.
7. Masked off the parts I wanted left bare metal.
8. Primed it with 2K primer and painted it with implement enamel (Ford Red).
9. Used Testors enamel model paint for the white stripes and lettering.
10. Clear coated the entire vise body.
11. Reassembled it.

The vise belonged to my Grandfather who gave it to my Dad who used it until his death last year. It's more of a sentimental thing than anything. Although I will use it some just because they did, I will probably end up buying a used, big vise for daily use.

Very cool! You did an excellent job!

 

[zanyad]

@SouthernIllinois great job on that vise. Love the stripe!

 

[Provincial]

Quick update on getting the Reed 405 swivel base 'unstuck', it worked! Thanks for everyone's input, now onto the swivel jaw! Oh by the way I did break a drag link socket in the process lol!

Check out how I unstuck the swivel jaw on my Reed 305 1/2 in post #5,343 in this thread. Heat and leverage are your friends!

 

[fishwatcher]

This Craftsman vise is clean, lubed and everything on it looks good and functional. I’ve had the screw out, collar removed, checked the collar bearing and all parts cleaned of old greas and regreased.

However, when I turn the screw handle and squeeze the jaws together just a little tight (against themselves or something in the jaws) it goes from a very easy and acceptable action to open and close, to becoming very tight (to both open and close). I can still open and close it, but the effort to do so becomes much harder.

If I open it all or nearly the way (8.35”) , and then close it.. the action loosens back up to what I think is normal again.

I don’t see any burrs anywhere, the screw is super straight, and the action is normal - opening and closing.. unless I squeeze the jaws together right (not overly tight mind you).

What can I do to fix or troubleshoot this further? I’m using Park Tools Polylube 1000 grease and it’s never been an issue before on other vises.

Thanks for your tips!

I fixed the action of the dynamic jaw that used to tighten up after closing this Craftsman 506-51840 vise tight. Earlier in this thread, I got a lot of tips, many of which I used. Thanks GJ!

I filed the openings of the static body slightly, flat filed the top, sides and bottom of the slide, used a sharpening stone to polish the filed edges, filed and smoothed the bottom of the nut, and figured out that if I give the front of the dynamic a push down, the end of the slide goes up and into the vise body easily.

Lastly.. if there’s a little bit of binding after closing it tight, hit the end of the screw with a soft mallet and it settles everything in place. Now the handle closes smoothly. With little to no binding.

I painted the vise with Rustoleum hammered grey after a Rustoleum 2X grey primer.

 

[Tom Graham]

What is the best method to repair or restore a flared top bore in a (bench vise) screw caused by the repeated peening from the handle end?

Anything other than drilling the screw oversized and adding a brass bushing? The handle and original ball ends are in great shape and I can’t see cutting it simply for this purpose. (a simple aluminum can shim didn’t accomplish anything.)

 

[Outlawmws]

Stick a fat O-ring on each end of the handle or those fat rubber washers some vises use, and cal it a day. Unl;ess the actual bore is wallowed out, I'd not worry about it. (I've had O-rings on my 4" Parker 974, and a couple other smaller vises for at least 3 decades)

 

[Tom Graham]

Stick.. those fat rubber washers some vises use [… on each end of the handle…], and cal it a day...

Thanks for the validation. I started by adding the ball bearing, spring and set screw for the handle tension (that it had been missing for far too long) — and the rubber washers to prevent any more damage.

 

[Outlawmws]

Yeah, the set screw, spring and ball bearing are game changers. (I used a brass "puck")

I often set the handle dead center, and one finger spin the vise where I need it.

 

[fishwatcher]

I recently posted in the big GJ vise thread about my restored Starrett 015. Here it is next to a few other vises.


I noticed the retainer ring on the screw is wobbly and loose. I’ve removed it and tightened it in a vise, but when I push it back on.. it stretches and widens again.

It’s on the inner shaft, but you can see when I screw it in and out, the ring is either in the groove or sometimes half way out of it. It doesn’t fall out, and seems to always go back in. Ideally.. I could squeeze it tight around the shaft, but I can’t think of a way to do that. Maybe use a couple of flat head screwdrivers wedged against the sides? 8” Icon adjustable needle nose pliers? I’ll try that tomorrow.

If that doesn’t work.. I’d like to get a replacement ring that fits properly.

I think the inner diameter of the shaft where the retainer ring goes into is 3/4”. It’s probably less than .125” wide.. but I haven’t removed to measure it because I don’t want to remove it again, making it even looser, until I have a replacement. I know.. that’s kind of backward.

Any suggestion (or links) for the type of ring to search for? or how I could fix the ring that I have?

 

[Outlawmws]

Maybe use a couple of flat head screwdrivers wedged against the sides? 8” Icon adjustable needle nose pliers? -- Any suggestion (or links) for the type of ring to search for? or how I could fix the ring that I have?

A couple of smaller cold chisels wedged in should do the trick - screwdrivers you would need to be levering it looks like

 

[drivesitfar]

FW: that’s a pretty decent sized Starrett vise to be using a clip to hold it in place. I’m not a fan of that design fir some of the reasons you mentioned so once you get it off can you make or find a sleeve with a set screw to make it easier to remove in the future?

BTW nice restoration on your vises!!

 

[fishwatcher]

A couple of smaller cold chisels wedged in should do the trick - screwdrivers you would need to be levering it looks like

I knew I should have left those in my HJE cart the other day.

This thread addresses what I’m trying to do. I’ll try it today.

FW: that’s a pretty decent sized Starrett vise to be using a clip to hold it in place. I’m not a fan of that design fir some of the reasons you mentioned so once you get it off can you make or find a sleeve with a set screw to make it easier to remove in the future?

BTW nice restoration on your vises!!

I don’t have machining tools. I think off the shelf collars with set screws would be too wide. I’ll keep looking though.

Thanks for the compliment. The blue Capri Tools vise was NIB, bought from a lady who was clearing out her ex-husband’s stuff out of her garage. The Craftsman was restored a month ago.

 

[zanyad]

This thread addresses what I’m trying to do.

Link no worky.

 

[fishwatcher]

Link no worky.

Here it is.

Post in thread 'VISE REPAIR 101 all vise repairs, lubricants, sources for parts and the tricks to fix'
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...rts-and-the-tricks-to-fix.252830/post-4441397

 

[RTM]

Any suggestion (or links) for the type of ring to search for? or how I could fix the ring that I have?

How about an external snap ring? Pull the screw out, take it to a hardware store, find the right one. You will need to install it as you slide the screw back in, so slide the screw, move the ring, slide the screw. Lather rinse repeat.

Whoops, we couldn't find that.

I had one similar to what you linked to in the other thread, used a hair clip retainer pin

https://www.huyett.com/all-products/pins/hitch-pin-clips/hair-pins

Remember, it's just opening the jaws

 

[Fretters]

I don’t have machining tools.

If you have a drill, you could simply drill a small hole through the shaft, slip a thick washer over the shaft, to **** up against the inner face of the front jaw, then a push fit pin inserted in the hole keeps the washer in place & secures the leadscrew in position.

 

[fishwatcher]

Here it is.

Post in thread 'VISE REPAIR 101 all vise repairs, lubricants, sources for parts and the tricks to fix'
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum...rts-and-the-tricks-to-fix.252830/post-4441397

I measured and the ring would need to fit 3/4” shaft and be 1/8” thick. I’ll keep an eye out for something.. but for now.. it’s fixed!

I used two 5/8” flathead screwdrivers and pushed the ring together. The split ring stays in the channel now.

I also used Icon 9” long nose slip joint pliers and it maybe tightened up the ring even more. It may have scratched the ring a bit.. but that’s not bothering anything.

Other than a coat of wax after the paint cures.. this vise is done.

thx for the good ideas and pointers!

 

[coltondunlap]

Just wrapped up restoring my 506-51840 today — this old beast originally belonged to my great-grandpa, and my grandpa passed it down to me a few years back. It’s been sitting for a while, but I finally gave it the attention it deserves.


Went with Rustoleum Farm & Implement Allis Chalmers Orange for the finish — figured a classic tool deserves a classic color. Feels good bringing a piece of family history back to life.

 

[fishwatcher]

Just wrapped up restoring my 506-51840 today — this old beast originally belonged to my great-grandpa, and my grandpa passed it down to me a few years back. It’s been sitting for a while, but I finally gave it the attention it deserves.


Went with Rustoleum Farm & Implement Allis Chalmers Orange for the finish — figured a classic tool deserves a classic color. Feels good bringing a piece of family history back to life.

That looks really great!

I recently restored one as well. I got all the kinks out of it except for one. For instance, reinserting the slide was difficult, action on the open and close was tight. It’s super smooth now except for one thing.

If I close it tight with or without anything in the jaws.. the action becomes tight. It becomes stiff to open and close vs when it’s normal and super easy.

A firm strike of the nose of the screw loosens it back up. That.. or open it all the way to 9” (almost completely), and it’s loose again.

Any tips on how to fix this ? I’ve discussed this here before, and done all of the suggestions. The striking the nose is the only thing that works, but I’d like to avoid doing that after every hard close.

 

[Fretters]

That looks really great!

I recently restored one as well. I got all the kinks out of it except for one. For instance, reinserting the slide was difficult, action on the open and close was tight. It’s super smooth now except for one thing.

If I close it tight with or without anything in the jaws.. the action becomes tight. It becomes stiff to open and close vs when it’s normal and super easy.

A firm strike of the nose of the screw loosens it back up. That.. or open it all the way to 9” (almost completely), and it’s loose again.

Any tips on how to fix this ? I’ve discussed this here before, and done all of the suggestions. The striking the nose is the only thing that works, but I’d like to avoid doing that after every hard close.

How is the screw retained in the front jaw on those vices? How's the nut alignment, & how's that retained in the body?

 

[fishwatcher]

How is the screw retained in the front jaw on those vices? How's the nut alignment, & how's that retained in the body?

Screw is retained by a beefy collar with a grub screw.

Nut seems to be good. I guess it has something to do with the screw being positioned in a funky way after it is tightened. Striking the screw puts it back into easy action mode. The nut is held into a dove tail and there is a pin coming from the bottom of the static that holds the nut in place.

 

[Fretters]

My thinking would be that the nut is likely shifting slightly & acting as a clamp on the screw. Is there any movement/play on the nut in its dovetail slot?

 

[RTM]

My thinking would be that the nut is likely shifting slightly & acting as a clamp on the screw. Is there any movement/play on the nut in its dovetail slot?

Never mind, it sounded better in my head than written out.

Edit: someone liked it before I edited it away, we’ll put it back.

Is it possible the screw is cocking at the final tightening, and binding at the front end?


Does it bind no matter how wide the jaws are open when you tighten it, always binds?

 

[tool_scrounge]

That looks really great!

I recently restored one as well. I got all the kinks out of it except for one. For instance, reinserting the slide was difficult, action on the open and close was tight. It’s super smooth now except for one thing.

If I close it tight with or without anything in the jaws.. the action becomes tight. It becomes stiff to open and close vs when it’s normal and super easy.

A firm strike of the nose of the screw loosens it back up. That.. or open it all the way to 9” (almost completely), and it’s loose again.

Any tips on how to fix this ? I’ve discussed this here before, and done all of the suggestions. The striking the nose is the only thing that works, but I’d like to avoid doing that after every hard close.

I had the same problem with a broken Craftsman vise that I repaired. It was a nut alignment issue. Link to thread below.

https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/threads/found-replacement-lead-screw-nut-for-vintage-craftsman-05196-05191-vises.506022

 

[fishwatcher]

Okay you’re giving me ideas about the nut. I’ll inspect how it sits within the vise. I wonder if it shouldn’t go to the front as much, since when I tighten it.. it’s being pulled. Or maybe I turn it around. It’s not TIGHT (corrected typo) anywhere within the vise, until I tighten it against itself or anything it’s clamping. Then.. it gets tight until in strike the screw nose.

 

[Fretters]

Just work through possibilities one by one. Nut is one. Another is to check there are no burrs or such on the rear end of the nosepiece which could be digging into the front of the front jaw & locking them together.

 

[fishwatcher]

Would these be a good size for vise handle bumpers? My handles are 5/8” thick.

 

[Outlawmws]

With enough stretch to go over the knobs, yes. Might possibly need some heat to get there? hot water?

 

[fishwatcher]

My neighbor owns a pretty big machine shop.

He has my Wilton C0 and is going to mill the anvil and tops of the jaws flat. What would it cost at a shop to have this done? What would be a nice offer to pay for this work?

 

[fishwatcher]

My neighbor owns a pretty big machine shop.

He has my Wilton C0 and is going to mill the anvil and tops of the jaws flat. What would it cost at a shop to have this done? What would be a nice offer to pay for this work?

Well.. my good neighbor said, no charge. Here it is with a little polishing on my part after he machined the jaw and anvil surfaces.

 

[Outlawmws]

What is his favorite beer? Get him a case or two!

 

[RTM]

What would it cost at a shop to have this done? What would be a nice offer to pay for this work?

I think area is everything on cost. I think @Beerhippie chimed in recently on what his local shops rate is. But, as @Outlawmws said, a favorite vice is always nice payment, whether it be beer, wine, fish, homemade bread or cookies, just a token if he says no charge, as you noted. Always increases the odds of a return visit. Or return a favor to him of something you are skilled at that he is not

 

[fishwatcher]

I think area is everything on cist. I think @Beerhippie chimed in recently on what his local shops rate is. But, as @Outlawmws said, a favorite vice is always nice payment, whether it be beer, wine, fish, homemade bread or cookies, just a token if he says no charge, as you noted. Always increases the odds of a return visit. Or return a favor to him of something you are skilled at that he is not

I offered him a bottle of wine, but he said he doesn’t drink. He said he was happy to help. We sometimes bring his mail in when he’s on a trip and also look out after each other. Treats sometime sounds good.

I’m pleased with how it turned out.

 

[Outlawmws]

I offered him a bottle of wine, but he said he doesn’t drink. He said he was happy to help. We sometimes bring his mail in when he’s on a trip and also look out after each other. Treats sometime sounds good.

I’m pleased with how it turned out.

If nothing else invite him for a BBQ.