What did you do "IN" your garage today?

[partsguy5768]

Wifes mg.. ( her and her father built years ago) been sitting about 3 years , installed battery I ordered yesterday, checked everything out and took driving about 2 hours ( never have driven before as I barely fit) weber carb lean... she has been complaining about a bit of a "buck" and a backfire though the carb at part throttle occasionally. Her dad had the idle screw cranked up with the throttle blade exposing the transition holes and the mixture screw cranked out 5 turns.... needs a bigger idle jet. Will order tomorrow. Spent the rest of the day cleaning, Detailing and checking things out. Happy wife! She can drive now and I'll correct the part throttle lean issue when I get the parts. Car cleaned up well. It was very dirty..

 

[Mikeske]

Well finally got around to a start but immediate shut down on my John Deere 2305. I thought the fuel shut off solenoid was possible bad but I decided to do some research on the internet and I found out that the 2305 had an inline diode buried behind the black plastic under the dashboard. I decided to do the cheap first and see if it fixes the no run issue. I go to the dealership with the diode and a I had the part number and the guy walks back to the stock room and gets the new diode. I come home plug the new diode in and viola the tractor starts and runs. $30.00 part is a heck a lot cheaper then a $275.00 solenoid. Tomorrow I start the process of cleaning up and reassemble of the plastic. This is the first time I ever been in this area of the tractor and it needs a deep cleaning and degreasing

 

[Beerhippie]

'for' the wife. Not 'of' the wife.

Yeah, but I was thinking a 3-D printed wife was too big for most shop rigs and would need to be printed in parts, then joined. Hence, a part "for" the 3-D-printed wife.

Do you have a file for that? Again, for a friend.

 

[LeonardY]

I was thinking a 3-D printed wife was too big for most shop rigs

Maybe...

I want Ai to do my dishes and laundry.

 

[LeonardY]

I wasn't satisfied with the last one. Tweaked some settings and printed another one. Here's the final on the right. The one on the left is the actual part I was duplicating and mirroring.

I sprayed it lightly with bumper texture paint and then with black trim paint. Both from SEM.

 

[kaymccampbell]

Sweet FA.

 

[Old Man Roger]

What is it?

 

[niget2002]

Yeah, but I was thinking a 3-D printed wife was too big for most shop rigs and would need to be printed in parts, then joined. Hence, a part "for" the 3-D-printed wife.

Do you have a file for that? Again, for a friend.

Just a finger.

 

[LeonardY]

What is it?

It's a stabilizer for a close quarter holster.

 

[DGersic]

Started cleaning up the Camry after the trip. Got the interior cleaned, and the areas inside the gas door and trunk edge that collect ****. Needs to be washed and waxed.

 

[FLHCHAZ]

A friend of mine junk-picked a Honda 2750 psi pressure washer for me. I have it running, but am missing a fitting for the wand to be able to see if the pump works. I'll try to get it all together this weekend and try it out

 

[Outlawmws]

A lot of the wands are interchangeable if you just want to test.

 

[zmotorsports]

Finished the radiator project on the Jeep after having some issues with large hands and tight spots to replace bolts. The Rubicon Rides again.

I still marvel at the youtube videos that people have edits in all of the ****** spots that stuff gets weird doing this project, then they act like everything was awesome and easy.

You would need squirrel sized hands to easily do some of the parts of this job.

Oh well, all done. I will clean the garage up tomorrow and reset my tools.

Yeah, I've found it easier on the Jeep JK's to evacuate the A/C system, and pull the cooling stack as an assembly. It's easier than fighting the dang radiator in the engine bay, plus it allows me to ensure all of the side rubber pieces are properly intact and not missing or dislodged.

Glad it rides again.

Not in the garage exactly. But right beside. Pulled off the outdated decals off my boat. Gonna go blank for the year and see if I like it. Initial reaction is I don’t think I like it blank as much as I thought I would. I’ll get the newer years boat decals when it’s time.

Nice, but then again I'm a fan of the debadged look on most things. One of the first things I do is debadge my vehicles when I get them home and in the stable. I have left the wife's Acura and our Fifth Gen Camaro alone, but the Duramax and Jeep have been debadged. I only left the Jeep emblem on the grille shell. I also debadged our 2003 Monaco Dynasty coach within the first few years of ownership and after painting it 8 years ago I only installed the oval emblem back onto the front, no other badging or lettering.

That being said, when I rebuilt my brother's boat years ago after painting it, he did install the current model year's lettering and it did look nice. Although it was outdated again when the new models came out.

 

[69charged]

Nice, but then again I'm a fan of the debadged look on most things. One of the first things I do is debadge my vehicles when I get them home and in the stable. I have left the wife's Acura and our Fifth Gen Camaro alone, but the Duramax and Jeep have been debadged. I only left the Jeep emblem on the grille shell. I also debadged our 2003 Monaco Dynasty coach within the first few years of ownership and after painting it 8 years ago I only installed the oval emblem back onto the front, no other badging or lettering.

That being said, when I rebuilt my brother's boat years ago after painting it, he did install the current model year's lettering and it did look nice. Although it was outdated again when the new models came out.

I hear ya. We redid the body on my son’s megacab and took all badging off. Including hiding the antenna into the front fender. Looks real good and smooth and clean.

Although I’m not a fan of the style of wheel.
And I’ve debadged my gladiator as well. Just have to weld up the holes in the tailgate where the jeep name was.
We’ll see how it grows on me.
Was going to go with this style

 

[Hooked]

Finished the radiator project on the Jeep after having some issues with large hands and tight spots to replace bolts. The Rubicon Rides again.

I still marvel at the youtube videos that people have edits in all of the ****** spots that stuff gets weird doing this project, then they act like everything was awesome and easy.

You would need squirrel sized hands to easily do some of the parts of this job.

Oh well, all done. I will clean the garage up tomorrow and reset my tools.

I wondered about your radiator access after I did my truck. Removal and install on mine was easy with 'plenty' of room to access the 8 bolts holding things together. I had envisioned what my hands would look like getting into such a small space. I can barely open the hood without busting a knuckle or two.

 

[Old Man Roger]

Yeah, I've found it easier on the Jeep JK's to evacuate the A/C system, and pull the cooling stack as an assembly. It's easier than fighting the dang radiator in the engine bay, plus it allows me to ensure all of the side rubber pieces are properly intact and not missing or dislodged.

Glad it rides again.







Nice, but then again I'm a fan of the debadged look on most things. One of the first things I do is debadge my vehicles when I get them home and in the stable. I have left the wife's Acura and our Fifth Gen Camaro alone, but the Duramax and Jeep have been debadged. I only left the Jeep emblem on the grille shell. I also debadged our 2003 Monaco Dynasty coach within the first few years of ownership and after painting it 8 years ago I only installed the oval emblem back onto the front, no other badging or lettering.

That being said, when I rebuilt my brother's boat years ago after painting it, he did install the current model year's lettering and it did look nice. Although it was outdated again when the new models came out.

Surprised you didn’t make some custom replacement for the blue oval. I mean if you’re gonna debadge, then debadge, right? I can see a Chrome ZMS badge now.lol

Edit, I think billet aluminum would be a better fit.

 

[zmotorsports]

Surprised you didn’t make some custom replacement for the blue oval. I mean if you’re gonna debadge, then debadge, right? I can see a Chrome ZMS badge now.lol

Edit, I think billet aluminum would be a better fit.

Not sure what "blue oval" you are referring to, but I can guarantee you that I don't own a single vehicle in my stable that has a damn blue oval. Them's fighting words.

 

[rd65]

Finish sanded and assembled a TV stand type thing for the DVD player to go under. Will stain it up sometime over the weekend. Put a 2nd coat of black paint on the backing boards for an old bookcase. Will assemble that sometime over the weekend.

 

[JEFFREYWisconsin]

Yeah, I've found it easier on the Jeep JK's to evacuate the A/C system, and pull the cooling stack as an assembly. It's easier than fighting the dang radiator in the engine bay, plus it allows me to ensure all of the side rubber pieces are properly intact and not missing or dislodged.

Glad it rides again.

You are right, that would be easier, Mine is radiator, AC and also for added fun a freaking trans cooler. It is ridiculous to deal with!

 

[zmotorsports]

You are right, that would be easier, Mine is radiator, AC and also for added fun a freaking trans cooler. It is ridiculous to deal with!

Yeah, they stack them all in there and anything else they can think of.

Fortunately on my personal JKUR, I removed the trans cooler from the equation and when I did my LS swap I put the manual A/C condenser in for a bit more surface area. Previous to the engine swap, I added a large stacked plate style transmission cooler as a standalone cooler so it is not tied to the radiator, at least that can stay in place when I have to pull the cooling stack.

 

[JEFFREYWisconsin]

I wondered about your radiator access after I did my truck. Removal and install on mine was easy with 'plenty' of room to access the 8 bolts holding things together. I had envisioned what my hands would look like getting into such a small space. I can barely open the hood without busting a knuckle or two.

I had to do some hand and finger gymnastics, especially when you can just barely get a ratchet on the bolt to remove it, then you have to put the bolts back in when you replace it and there is just almost no way to get the bolt to hold in place while you are trying to once again thread a needle with a ratchet.

Frankly it really sucked.

 

[Jure]

God,this thing is PITA to tune... It was not working at all,works great now.

 

[Beerhippie]

Whew. Five hour to change a door hinge is a new record for me!

You know it isn't your normal hinge replacement job when you haul out the welder, grinder and epoxy.



The door on the right pretty much fell off its two-way hinges yesterday. It was at the end of the day and the door did still close, so I put off fixing it 'til this AM. I started at right about 10 AM and finished up at 3 PM. Of course, fifteen other things needed attention around the pub, kitchen and brewery, so maybe I didn't spend all of those five hours on the door.

Those swinging doors have been in use since the "old brewhouse" was built almost thirty years ago. They've been hit with forklifts and loaded pallet jacks, soaked all day for weeks at a time, sometimes in caustics and sometimes in beer. The door that failed is the most used, so it swings hundreds of times a day.

Which might have something to do with this:



That's what's left of the swinging hinge.

The new one looks much better:



Years ago, I had to make and install some braces to hold what was left of the door together. The lower one is partially visible in the first pic above and this is the upper one:



The upper pivot socket of the hinge mounts to that--and it's welded on. Using a cut-off wheel and AG, I cut the old welds off, ground the welds down and welded the new one back on.

Where there is still wood on the door, it was completely split, so I had to mix up some epoxy and repair that. Then drill and tap the lower brace for the mounting points of the new hinge, which is similar but not identical to the old one.

Since there is no wood on the threshold of the door, the next step was marking and drilling the concrete for some shell anchors, which was a PITA, as there is no template with the hinge so it has to be mounted to the door and marked in place, then the door needs to be removed again to drill the holes.

Finally done for today and it's beer-thirty. The new hinge is in and the door works again--but not well. I'll screw around with it some more after I finish this fine malt beverage....

 

[Outlawmws]

The new hinge is in and the door works again--but not well. I'll screw around with it some more after I finish this fine malt beverage....

Cause beer and fine motor skills adjustments go well together!

 

[Beerhippie]

Cause beer and fine motor skills adjustments go well together!

You betcha'! After all, it is a brewery door.

I think it may require some fine adjustment with a BFH.

 

[nadogail]

Played with an idea for a rack for 5 Gallon Bucket Planters. I like what I have come up with and will buy some materials and fabricate some examples to show to potential customers tomorrow.

 

[Outlawmws]

Played with an idea for a rack for 5 Gallon Bucket Planters. I like what I have come up with and will buy some materials and fabricate some examples to show to potential customers tomorrow.

Remember,

 

[Mikeske]

I got the John Deere 2305 tractor back together today after replacing the defective diode for the fuel shutoff. A simple $30.00 diode and not the fuel shut off which cost around $275.00 is the best possible outcome on this. I cleaned off 15 years of crud, grass clipping and spilled diesel fuel from the area before slapping the plastic back together. I did not take any pictures as all I wanted was getting the tractor back together and then go and see the wife

 

[Old Man Roger]

I only installed the oval emblem back onto the front

Not sure what "blue oval" you are referring to, but I can guarantee you that I don't own a single vehicle in my stable that has a damn blue oval. Them's fighting words.

You mentioned oval, I assumed it was blue.

 

[Old Man Roger]

God,this thing is PITA to tune... It was not working at all,works great now.

Never tuned a horn before. Can you adjust the volume, or just change the pitch?

 

[69charged]

Worked on changing the leaking transmission cooling lines on the son’s truck. I have a sneaking suspicion it’s also leaking from the input shaft seal on the pump. Hope I’m wrong.



I tell him to watch where the oil drains…..and this happens every time!
Would be nicer if the concrete was sealed.

 

[Outlawmws]

I tell him to watch where the oil drains…..and this happens every time!

I use a sheet of plastic from the slide plate off of a scrapped treadmill, but lacking anything similar flattened big cardboard box. - save 'em...

 

[Jure]

Never tuned a horn before. Can you adjust the volume, or just change the pitch?

Both volume and pitch.

 

[DAVE94LIGHTNING]

Laser marked some surgical retractors for the graduating class of Urology at UCLA.

 

[Outlawmws]

Never tuned a horn before. Can you adjust the volume, or just change the pitch?

Both volume and pitch.

That's been my experience. One screw does both, but the pitch is tied to the volume.

 

[Jure]

That's been my experience. One screw does both, but the pitch is tied to the volume.

There is a small screw on the back as well,to fine tune pitch and volume. But yea,both screws are tunning pitch and volume at the same time.

 

[JEFFREYWisconsin]

Laser marked some surgical retractors for the graduating class of Urology at UCLA.

I wouldn't be able to resist dropping one or two gag ones of those in the batch.

I really should never be trusted to make something like that.

 

[JEFFREYWisconsin]

Worked on changing the leaking transmission cooling lines on the son’s truck. I have a sneaking suspicion it’s also leaking from the input shaft seal on the pump. Hope I’m wrong.



I tell him to watch where the oil drains…..and this happens every time!
Would be nicer if the concrete was sealed.

I put my oil drain pan into a bigger tub that you can buy at a Home Depot type place, its the tub they use for mixing small batch concrete, cheap and durable. 2' by 3' usually works for me!

 

[BonzoHansen]

I put my oil drain pan into a bigger tub that you can buy at a Home Depot type place, its the tub they use for mixing small batch concrete, cheap and durable. 2' by 3' usually works for me!

i have 3 of those tubs in my garage for various uses.

 

[dcg9381]

So I have a 10 year old Polaris SxS (900cc), it's been complete **** to start cold for the last 2 years. Been asking about it on various Polaris forums, they simply tell me to run 87 octane ethanol fuel. Fine when warm, but will very hard start when cold. A blast of starter fluid and it's fine.

To me it was a pretty obvious case of poor cold start enrichment.

It finally set a code today saying "fuel trim out of range". That, the polaris guys were helpful with - apparently there is an o-ring on the fuel pump that goes bad and you lose fuel pressure.

Pulled the pump, fishing for the o-ring. Various plastic bits on this pump that have not aged well as well as some snap rings (not typical type) that hold on the fuel sock. So I gave up about 45 minutes into figuring out how to disassemble the pump not being worth it with all the brittle plastic on this thing. Ordered a new pump (China) that gets here tomorrow. 90% chance this solves my "cold start" problem that I've been chasing for 2-3 years.