Hack. That was auto correct or a fat thumb. I edited it i think.
Every one of us that have been doing this job long enough have seen 10/2 used for a dryer so I doubt he was saying it literally didn't exist. He was saying it was supposed to be 10/3 and the old 10/3 (or 14/3, 12/3, 8/3, and probably 6/3) didn't have a ground and that would have been the proper cable to use. 10/2 w/ ground would have been for water heaters, air conditioners, ovens (not ranges) and some cook tops though I've seen all of the above wired with 10/3 w/o ground using the white for ground. Those guys probably carried one type of wire for everything.
Ok. 3 conductor no ground was probably the correct wire to use. I don't disagree with that at all.
It probably was cheaper. Combine that with the fact that, even today, many 'lectricians think that a three wire dryer is 240, two hots and a ground along with no inspections and you have hack installs.
Because the neutral on the load side of the meter is supposed to be insulated unless it's SE cable. Period. And when it's SE cable, the bare can't (isn't supposed to) be used as a neutral unless it's a main panel, no subs. Why didn't they run two hots in EMT, then run a bonding jumper from the box to the neutral lug on the receptacle? They would have had to use a jumper since the neutral lug would have been isolated, leaving the pipe to carry five amps.
I've never seen an AC that required a neutral, I doubt they exist but I've seen lots of AC's wired with old 10/3 w/o ground and the neutral repurposed as a ground.
Not sure how they do it in Iowa but here all the old stuff is a bare neutral at the WH into the meter can , and into the panel.
The WH is supposed to be two hots and a ground and that is the norm. I was stating that in older homes I've seen the old 10/3 with no ground used for them, the white was used for the ground since there wasn't a bare wire present. The same for older AC circuits, even if it's a new unit.
A 240 volt AH would be capable of electric heat, 120 is for gas. I missed the AH part of your previous post, just saw condenser.
So do you have gas heat or is it just an air handler and you have another heat source? I ask because we usually call them furnaces. Air handler is reserved for commercial buildings.
Thats NM. Someone used the wrong wire… doesnt even look like #10
no, read my posts and figure it out. it's all there. more than once. if you stopped blabbing on & on and paid attention, you might understand
There's no electrical question here that won't be run into the ground with pages of minutiae.
Thank you.
Get a gas dryer. Problem solved. Don't forget to put green tape on the red wire cuz it ain't gonna be twotwenny no more.
Uh oh.It is gas........that's how scarredi am
Ive learned so many quirky sayings on GJ.
a 3 wire dryer plug is not 120/240
I hope this isn't another here we go again. A three wire dryer is 120/240 but doesn't have a ground. The frame of the dryer isbonded to the neutral and comes that way from the factory. When going to four wire, the bonding strap is removed.
Hmmm, maybe in Spanish?
and I can guess that 99% of the dryers before they made 4 wire were wired with 10/2 with ground
Why? Does it get your PAN-TYs in a bunch?
good one
because its valid.
Texas is close enough to Fla. (Possible internet Bro-mance brewing.)
Question: If it's not 120/240, why is it using a neutral?
wrong. if its not 120/240 then why does it need to use the ground conductor as a neutral? neutral is only needed for 120v and its not code permissible to send neutral current on a ground wire. anyone who says otherwise is a hack and creates potential for shock
whatever theyre wired with is not the point. They are 120/240 no grnd. go lookup nema 10-30.... Just because some hill-billy hack used the wrong NM wire doesnt make it correct and actually makes it potentially dangerous in some regards...
More like 1% and all of them were wrong. The proper way would have been 10/3 and the old 10/3 didn't have a ground. Four wire added the bare ground to 10/3. I don't know when the manufacturers started adding the ground but it hit the code with the adoption of the 1996 NEC.
I had about 10' of this cable laying around for 30 years. It was old when given to me.
I was in TX from 95 to 98, so we would have been on probably the 93 code, maybe 90, When I started. We had 10/3 with ground and just shoved the ground to the back of the box knowing what was coming when the 96 was adopted. Of course, I was in Dallas and some people don't/didn't consider that Texas.
It was the other way around. The neutral was used for a ground by bonding the dryer or range chassis to the neutral. Hence the requirement for the ground.
Again in case you didnt understand this
I know someone that got rejected in the 70s for not having 4 wire to an oven that had a light.
When I see a white wire it goes to the neutral bus……. Green or Bare goes to the ground bus.
I'm calling BS unless there was a local amendment and I'll have to defer to some of the guys that were running wire in the '70s to chime in and tell if four wire romex was even a thing back then
It was the 1996 code that introduced the four wire circuit and cord/plug connection to dryer and range circuits, when I started in 1994 some places were still on the 1990 and some on the 1993 edition, but I remember the change to the '96 and going from three to four wire circuits.. An oven is different than a range since they don't have a surface for cooking with a pan or pot.
Must be a 4wire branch circuit. N-N, G-G Must be seperated.
Would you care to explain how a NEMA 10-30, 125/250 volt non grounding receptacle is wired with two hots and a ground? If it were two hots and a ground, there would be no reason for the 10-30 since the 6-30 would be sufficient.
I was involved in the electrical trade since 1968 and the "known" Romex wire was no different than today.
