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Retaining wall - progress!!!

jpcjguy

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Jan 6, 2014
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Location
Richmond, VA
Hey all,

So finally pulled the trigger on the retaining wall. Here are the before pics. As you can see they wall was failing - rotting out and leaning.
Had 11 pallets of block (660) delivered plus caps and corners. Contractor has been busting his ****! Boys and I got rid of all the existing ties - figures on a near record heat day...
 

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jpcjguy

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great progress! Final wall height is set. you can see one top cap on the wall - that is the highest - the right side will get one more course.
 

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jpcjguy

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Richmond, VA
Very nice!

I think I would have been inclined to install a set of stairs integral to the wall to get to the top.
we thought about it - but considerably more expense. An you can easily access that upper area from the rest of the yard.
Here is a better backyard picture - you can make out the old railroad tie wall that was replaced on the left
 

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jpcjguy

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Looks good. Did they fill and rebar the cavities?
filled the cavities with gravel but no rebar. With 2-3 feet of wrapped gravel behind the wall, contractor said it will be fine. We are also grading out the upper slope considerably. I trust him as he has done some mega walls that you see around shopping centers like the attached
 

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larry4406

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Northern Virginia
That is a very attractive wall. It’s giving me inspiration to solve a grading issue I have.

Do you have the specs on the wall and cap stones (brand, color, etc)?
 
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jpcjguy

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That is a very attractive wall. It’s giving me inspiration to solve a grading issue I have.

Do you have the specs on the wall and cap stones (brand, color, etc)?
Sure thing! They are Belgard brand: https://www.belgard.com/products/retaining-walls/diamond-10ds/

DIAMOND 10D - JEFFERSON (IRON BAY) - I think Jefferson is the old color name and Iron Bay is the new name
43.20 sf per pallet - I think 60 blocks per pallet

120 XL CAP HIGHLAND CUT - JEFFERSON (IRON BAY)
72 per pallet

14 HIGHLAND STONE COLUMN - JEFFERSON (IRON BAY) - these are for the corners
 
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jpcjguy

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The lip on the bottom of your blocks act like pins or rebars in the cavity. usually as long as it's filled with stone, the blocks don't move with the proper stone back fill as yours.
Yup - these blocks have the lip on the bottom to lock them in place
 

madison069

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Monroeville, PA
They are using geogrid every two layers of block. That's a pretty big deal.

Use the geogrid or rebuild the wall in ten years.
This puny wall is not stopping Mother Nature and her frost heaving, but geogrid+filter fabric+drain rock+drain tile will slow her down.
IMG_2324.jpeg

Nothing against using geogrid for short walls but if the gravel back fill is cut back properly, and the water can drain away then short walls 4' and under will survive. Mine and lots of other walls in my municipality is proof of it. If the back fill is cut back correctly, walls taller will survive but it is advised to start using geogrid if it's going to be over 5'.

Here is a geogrid guideline for versa-lok
IMG_7612.jpeg

Level backfill does not need geogrid at 4' and under. His backfill looks to be relatively level, he is using gravel backfill and as base material, he has underdrain, looks like his wall has 12" or more of the wall underground which is more than what's required. The blocks are set back in a uniform setback due to the design of the lip on the bottom of the block. Along with the stone in the cavity interlock with the stone and blocks below the layer.


While it's no harm to add geogrid to all retaining walls, it's not required to have a long-lasting wall if everything else is followed as per requirements for 4' tall walls.
 

Fav Onefour

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MN cold and hot
Nothing against using geogrid for short walls but if the gravel back fill is cut back properly, and the water can drain away then short walls 4' and under will survive. Mine and lots of other walls in my municipality is proof of it. If the back fill is cut back correctly, walls taller will survive but it is advised to start using geogrid if it's going to be over 5'.

Here is a geogrid guideline for versa-lok
IMG_7612.jpeg

Level backfill does not need geogrid at 4' and under. His backfill looks to be relatively level, he is using gravel backfill and as base material, he has underdrain, looks like his wall has 12" or more of the wall underground which is more than what's required. The blocks are set back in a uniform setback due to the design of the lip on the bottom of the block. Along with the stone in the cavity interlock with the stone and blocks below the layer.


While it's no harm to add geogrid to all retaining walls, it's not required to have a long-lasting wall if everything else is followed as per requirements for 4' tall walls.
I mentioned it because the drawing included geogrid.
I'm somewhat familiar with the geogrid recommendations. I have quite a few walls that were done by a contractor a few years before we moved into the place.
The walls,
patio wall.JPG
were done without geogrid.
Ground behind the walls is essentially undisturbed except for the cut. These are 72# pin lock blocks and not lipped.

The original contractor stopped by while we were doing patio sections to replace the decks.(She was a friend of my wife.)
Interestingly, the tiered walls have held quite well. The long lower section to the right of patio moves about 1/8" per year. The contractor commented they would have used geogrid with the newer recommendations.


I know geogrid isn't always required but I consider it good insurance.
 

andyvh1959

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Feb 15, 2020
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Location
Green Bay WI
Looking good. I've done simple small retaining walls, 5 course high and 50' long, with packed level 8" of gravel under the bottom course and gravel backfill packed down as I built the wall. So far after three Wisconsin winters and many very wet downpours not a single stone has moved. If I ever do a higher wall I will use the Geogrid with wider gravel backfill. I am always surprised when I see someone build a retaining wall in a single day, with no proper base course prep and no gravel backfill. Within one season the blocks are already pushed out of position.
 

Jim_No_Garage

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Jan 15, 2011
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Location
Millington NJ
That is a great looking wall! I have built a number of Versalock walls over the years and never liked the idea that they didn't sell full end/corner blocks. I like the idea of using the matching "column" product for the split face corners. I had to split my blocks by hand - the Versalock blocks are solid and pin together so you can split them around the pin channels/holes to get a rough faced corner.

I look at my back yard and see the wall I should have built 30 years ago when we first bought the property. I'm not going to build it now - I'm too damn old and those Versalock blocks are too damn heavy!

Enjoy your new wall - it should be standing for a good long time!

Cheers

Jim
 

Kaizen

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Jan 9, 2015
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Location
New England
Very nice!

I think I would have been inclined to install a set of stairs integral to the wall to get to the top.
I have a sweeping stairway in mine that ties into the sides. I had to replace the steps due to salt damage up here in the north and man oh man did i have to pull some blocks. Because each one sits on half the one below, in order to get to the bottom step/course you have to go out like 6 feet. If i ever do it again it will be not integrated into the walls.
 
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