Small bearing puller needed

[Grant Gunderson]

Hey guys, I’m in search for a bearing puller that would fit these 22mm OD bearings.

This is the easy one as bearing separator should work, but I haven’t found one thin enough to slide into that gap to separate it.

This one is trickier. Once again bearing OD is 22mm and gear ID is only 38mm so very little room to get a puller in there.

Off hand I’m thinking an exterior collet type puller could work similar to a dowel pin puller, but the 22mm diameter is an issue for those.

 

[inphx]

Would this work? https://www.amazon.com/Shopping-Day...Motorcycle/dp/B07GFLBY1R?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[seber]

Amazon.com

You may have to order it. These are not something every parts store will have.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

The problem with those Chinese pullers is the web of the pullers are too thick to fit under these bearings. I’ve already tried them.

 

[RTM]

How about one of these? Small n cheap, wouldn't feel Bad customizing it. Grind the tips a bit, c clamp them in to start driving it apart

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Kinda cheap version of what @seber posted.

 

[slowtwitch73]

A job for the 10EE....

Could get a machinable 5c collet, bore it out so you have a gripper lip at the end, insert over bearing, and use a collet block to tighten, clamp block in vise and apply persuasion.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

A job for the 10EE....

Could get a machinable 5c collet, bore it out so you have a gripper lip at the end, insert over bearing, and use a collet block to tighten, clamp block in vise and apply persuasion.

Agreed. I’ll probably end up doing that at some point but the lathe isn’t wired up. That’s on hold until I move into a larger commercial space as I’ll likely have 3 phase then.

 

[txvwnut]

Maybe one of these, https://www.posilock.com/product/202-manual-puller/. You might have to dress the ends a little to get the fit you want.

 

[L.Cheapo]

if it were me I'd nick the outer race with a torch, snap it in half to get it off, do the same for the bearing cage inside, then use a bearing splitter on the inner race.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

if it were me I'd nick the outer race with a torch, snap it in half to get it off, do the same for the bearing cage inside, then use a bearing splitter on the inner race.

Not possible, first that would melt the plastic gear, second zero way to get a splitter on the inner race.

Maybe one of these, https://www.posilock.com/product/202-manual-puller/. You might have to dress the ends a little to get the fit you want.

I just ordered a 102 and a 202 we will see fi they fit. I already have their 104 / 105 and 106 and love them for larger stuff. However I'm concerned the jaws will be too thick for this, even if I machine them down

 

[bigfunwmu]

Is that a ball bearing, or rollers? If it's a ball and you're ok replacing it, then try something like this:

Beta 1547 /C6 Universal Ball Bearing Extractor Set - Amazon.com

Beta 1547 /C6 Universal Ball Bearing Extractor Set - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

Read the sizes to make sure it fits your bearing.

Or maybe something like this if you can find the right size:

https://www.misterworker.com/en-us/beta/two-leg-pullers-light-series-1508-1-1508-2/28455.html?gmc_currency=3&SubmitCountry=US&gPromoCode=MWDEAL-New&gQT=1

 

[Steve_P]

Either/or grind some off the bottom of the tooth of the cheap Chinese puller, or tack weld some bolts onto the bearing and then use a real puller on it.

 

[Two Door]

Windshield wiper pullers like this seem to have the thin lips you need, but of course at the risk of bending. I just bought the OEM Tools battery terminal puller to pull a small motor bearing, but the lips are probably about .030, although you might be able to clamp/wedge them together under the bearing as you would a separator.

 

[MJD1]

Use a bearing seperator and a bar type puller. The bearing seperator is tapped to accept studs that attach to the bar puller. Another option is to remove the seal and see if a slide hammer hook can grip the ball portion of the bearing . On the one that's recessed, I would weld studs on the outside of the bearing and use a bar type puller.

 

[ChevyEFI]

If the recessed bearing is available new, I would have diegrinder or dremeled grooves in the outside so a 2 jaw could pull and hope the assembly comes off.

 

[bwringer]

Is that a ball bearing, or rollers? If it's a ball and you're ok replacing it, then try something like this:

Beta 1547 /C6 Universal Ball Bearing Extractor Set - Amazon.com

Beta 1547 /C6 Universal Ball Bearing Extractor Set - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

Read the sizes to make sure it fits your bearing....

I had no idea this existed, but that should do the trick, assuming one of the ball sizes is close enough.

That's also the kind of thing someone with a lathe could whip up. Unless these are parts for said lathe...

 

[humber2]

Is that a ball bearing, or rollers? If it's a ball and you're ok replacing it, then try something like this:

Beta 1547 /C6 Universal Ball Bearing Extractor Set - Amazon.com

Beta 1547 /C6 Universal Ball Bearing Extractor Set - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

This is the way to go for both bearings.

See if you can hire a set.

 

[RoninB4]

-Don't know if it would work or even if it's worth the trouble but I had to make an extractor to pull the bottom bearing from the steering stem of a Valkyrie. No way to catch the lip with a drift of any sort. I made a two piece plate slipped into the ID and expanded on a taper so the whole thing locked up tight when inserted from the bottom and attached to a rudimentary slide hammer. for your application I'd use 2 circular plates of heat treated S-7 thinned at the edges to slip under the bearing. This could also be done from the OD or ID. Attach these plates by 4 SHCS to a slide hammer of some sort. Yeah a lot of trouble and machining so maybe not worth it.

 

[Sumboodie]

I have suggestions, but depends if you need to reuse the bearings or not

 

[Grant Gunderson]

I have suggestions, but depends if you need to reuse the bearings or not

Goal is to replace the bearings, but I’ll have a lot of these to do, so efficiency is important. As is the least destructive means possible as replacement gear parts are not available

Is that a ball bearing, or rollers? If it's a ball and you're ok replacing it, then try something like this:

Beta 1547 /C6 Universal Ball Bearing Extractor Set - Amazon.com

Beta 1547 /C6 Universal Ball Bearing Extractor Set - Amazon.com

www.amazon.com

Read the sizes to make sure it fits your bearing.

SKF and others make tools like that too. All of them apear to be for 6000 series and larger these are only 608’s so not sure they will fit

 

[signcrafter]

Curious what these are out of?

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Curious what these are out of?

E-bike motor.

 

[whateg01]

The problem with those Chinese pullers is the web of the pullers are too thick to fit under these bearings. I’ve already tried them.

You don't have an angle grinder?

 

[KnurledNut]

What holds the plastic gear on? Can it be removed first?

 

[WhoWhatNow]

Induction heater to heat the bearing? That should put minimal heat into the gear.

 

[LXCam]

Grant does the gear come off that end as well? Is the plastic dense enough for a receiver or socket to fit over the shaft then press it down n out?

 

[dnschmidt]

A battery terminal puller might do the trick: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-54150-Battery-Terminal-Puller/dp/B000I14RY6/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[alfadan]

I'd try pressing the bearing off by carefully pressing on the gear. The bearing may not be that tight on the shaft.

 

[Grant Gunderson]

What holds the plastic gear on? Can it be removed first?

It is bonded to the metal shaft / metal gear on the other side. So it can’t be removed first.

Induction heater to heat the bearing? That should put minimal heat into the gear.

Don’t want to use heat. The plastic gears can’t be replaced if they get damaged.

Grant does the gear come off that end as well? Is the plastic dense enough for a receiver or socket to fit over the shaft then press it down n out?

Plastic gear does not come off as it’s permanently bonded on. The first pic with the metal gear it does come off as there is a thin snap ring under the gear but I’d like to leave it intact and just remove the gear.


Ordered a bunch of pullers. We will see what works after it all gets delivered, but I’m not too optimistic on any of them.

 

[Davefr]

I'd throw the entire assembly into a freezer for around an hour, remove and then place a light bulb over just the bearing. After a few minutes you might be able to just pull it off.

I've had bearings on shafts so tight you'd need a press or puller to remove but using the temperature differential method upon reassembly you can press them back on with your hand. It's worth a try.

 

[signcrafter]

I don't know if this would be strong enough to get the bearing off or not but I have a cheaper set like this to do cam and crank seals.

Amazon.com: OTC 7196 Crank and Cam Seal Service Kit : Automotive

Buy OTC 7196 Crank and Cam Seal Service Kit: Crankshaft - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[Psiber]

Have you looked at Kukko pullers? Very nice and quality that I think you would appreciate, though not cheap. They have an excellent puller guide that maybe of assistance: https://www.kukko.com/fileadmin/user_upload/know-how/downloads_en/pullerguide_en1.pdf

 

[bwringer]

...SKF and others make tools like that too. All of them apear to be for 6000 series and larger these are only 608’s so not sure they will fit

Ah, that helps to know.

In the images, there's no sense of scale so those really do look like they're on the scale of 6000 series bearings, roughly two or three times as big.

If you can get a decent grip on the outer races, you may be able to tap the inner shaft through. If you have several to do, I could picture machining a pair of vise jaws from a chunk of steel in halves with an extended circle in the middle

Sort of like this:
__/|_ _|\__

Bring them together in a vise to clamp the outer race, then drive the shaft out (from the bottom in this crappy diagram).
__/|__|\__

Not sure if that makes sense, but basically a fairly simple custom fixture could be used for both of these.

 

[Steve_P]

Not possible, first that would melt the plastic gear, second zero way to get a splitter on the inner race.

I just ordered a 102 and a 202 we will see fi they fit. I already have their 104 / 105 and 106 and love them for larger stuff. However I'm concerned the jaws will be too thick for this, even if I machine them down

I missed this post. On the #102 that I have, the jaw at the bottom is .10" thick- I didn't measure the 202. So, I'm guessing it's going to take some grinding/milling.

For the "easy" bearing, the smallest bearing splitter I have is this:

Amazon.com: OTC 1121 Bearing Splitter - Features Knife-Like Edges that Seat Behind Components for Quick Separation and a Generous 1/4" to 15/16" Spread; Use with OTC Grip-O-Matic or Push-Pullers (Not Included) : Automotive

Buy OTC 1121 Bearing Splitter - Features Knife-Like Edges that Seat Behind Components for Quick Separation and a Generous 1/4" to 15/16" Spread; Use with OTC Grip-O-Matic or Push-Pullers (Not Included): Wheel Bearing Tools - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

Here's a heavy duty wiper arm puller.

https://www.amazon.com/OTC-6676-Heavy-Duty-Windshield-Puller/dp/B004CGRQGE/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Grant Gunderson]

Ordered a bunch of pullers to try. My wallet is now $400+ lighter. Left to Right Lisle wiper puller, OTC wiper / battery puller, posilock 202, posilock 102, laser 3457, facet puller.

Compare to my larger posilocks those 102/202’s are pretty cute. I’m only missing the 103 series now, so in garage journal fashion I should probably order one to satisfy my OCD. Posilock seems to be about the best for pullers in NA but KUKKO seems to be the cats meow but they are ungodly expensive to order from Europe.

The Lisle battery / wiper puller is by far the thinnest jaws, but as you narrow the width they angle upwards so won’t work unless I can bend them. The pinned design of the Lisle will make them difficult to modify. The OTC battery / wiper puller uses slots for the upper pivot pins that keep the jaws parallel no matter what width. However the stamped metal jaws are way too thick. Compared to the Lisle the screw mechanism threads feel very cheap. Too bad. Good idea with the sliding pivots but **** quality.

The jaws on the Posilocs are angled up so they won’t fit under the bearings race. I may be able to machine these down so they are flush, but once again angle changes depending on width.

On the recessed bearing neither the 2 or 3 jaw Posiloc will fit. Even if I machine the outer circumference down, at the width I need those jaws angle up far too much.

The quality of the laser puller really surprised me. These seem to have very favorable reviews. But once again jaws are too thick. I may be able to machine them down but given The upward angle not sure they will work.

No chance they will fit the recessed bearing unless I notch the exterior. I’m leaning towards milling the posilocks first. Open to ideas / suggestions.

 

[Two Door]

How thin do the edges have to be to get behind one or both of these bearings?

 

[Grant Gunderson]

The problem with most bearing separators is instead of the lower edge of the blade being dead flat it’s recessed. Id happily machine this cheap Urea one down, but In order to get it close enough I’d loose too much on the bolt holes. Maybe I just do the center….

This is the smallest size KUKKo it’s got the best design I’ve seen but it’s $150 and I haven’t seen a single image to tell if the backside is ground flat. Might order one regardless as that center clamp bolt is way better than the typical 2 bolt design.

Does anyone know if the Snapon etc are ground flat on the back side?

 

[Grant Gunderson]

How thin do the edges have to be to get behind one or both of these bearings?

.085mm or .040” according to my feeler gauges. So very thin.

 

[KFBR392]

Amazon.com: Performance Tool C28196 Armature Bearing Puller : Automotive

Buy Performance Tool C28196 Armature Bearing Puller: Bearing Pullers - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

a.co

This is the one I use for pulling small 600 series bearings off of power tool armatures. They look huge in pictures but are actually very small and fit in the palm of your hand. I have the same problems you do with all the pullers on the market. They're all too damn big, and the jaws are insanely thick or have a weird upward angle for some reason. I'm able to get these into tight spots.

 

[whateg01]

I'm surprised you picked any of those pullers, because none of them appear to be small enough to get in to get the recessed bearing out.