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Track saw question

purplezr2

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Not much plywood is sold in the US in 5x5. The only stuff I've ever used was Baltic birch.
Tools are sold outside the USA.....

Look at all these sizes google says Festool sells.

"Festool guide rails for their track saws are available in various lengths, including 800mm, 1080mm, 1400mm, 1900mm, 2400mm, 2700mm, 3000mm, and 5000mm. These lengths allow users to choose the right rail for their specific cutting needs, from smaller projects to longer cuts on large sheets. Festool also offers FSK cross-cutting rails with cutting lengths of 250mm, 420mm, and 670mm. "
 
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whateg01

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Tools are sold outside the USA.....

Look at all these sizes google says Festool sells.

"Festool guide rails for their track saws are available in various lengths, including 800mm, 1080mm, 1400mm, 1900mm, 2400mm, 2700mm, 3000mm, and 5000mm. These lengths allow users to choose the right rail for their specific cutting needs, from smaller projects to longer cuts on large sheets. Festool also offers FSK cross-cutting rails with cutting lengths of 250mm, 420mm, and 670mm. "
Of course, but referencing 5x5, I thought you meant here in the US. Or does the rest of the world use feet when measuring plywood?
 

signcrafter

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I have yet to own a track saw, I make do with a straight 2X4 and a pair of clamps.
I did this for a long time, actually made a jig using 1/8" masonite and a poplar 1x2 as a "track saw". Kept saying next big job I had with sheet goods I would pick up a track saw but kept putting it off. Finally bit the bullet when I had a stack of 4x8 sheets of oak faced ply almost 2' tall. Kicked myself for not getting one earlier after using it for one day. Couldn't imagine life without it now. But guess it all depends on how much you break down sheet goods. I also use mine for all sorts of other things.
 

jar944

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Image (18).jpg

3400mm wagon, nice for straight-line ripping

Put I agree 118" for the tracksaw.

Also surprised they a don't make 2000mm or 2200mm for cutting 5x5 plywood.

Nice.
I just passed on a couple of late 90s f45s. Probably going to regret not getting them as they were dirt cheap @$2500. Passed on them because they were 350mm max diameter models and not the 450mm I want. Well that and my wife would kill me if I drag another slider home.
 
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RTM

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Props to anyone who can correctly identify the wooden plane in the pic above. Hint, there’s a piece of scrap on the bench showing what it does and explains why I’m using it.
Looks like a filletster plane from here. I'm on my phone, so having trouble seeing your sample, but if imagine I was looking for a board with a rabbet on the sample of a non standard sized width.
 

AEAdam

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Looks like a filletster plane from here. I'm on my phone, so having trouble seeing your sample, but if imagine I was looking for a board with a rabbet on the sample of a non standard sized width.
It's got the fence of a moving fillester but is much shorter. It's a "drawer bottom plow" or "drawer bottom fillester". It has a non-interchangeable 1/4" cutter. I'm using it to plow a little groove under Azek trim pieces to break the surface tension and cause water to drip there. In practical use, it's all I ever really need for a plow plane. Like most plow planes, whether we are creating grooves for raised panels, or drawer bottoms, this little guy does it all. That's how my woodworking is at the moment: a weird mix of arcane tools, techniques and features, often using modern materials.

Thanks for playing along.
 

RTM

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It's a "drawer bottom plow" or "drawer bottom fillester". It has a non-interchangeable 1/4" cutter. I'm using it to plow a little groove under Azek trim pieces to break the surface tension and cause water to drip there. In
So do you put the groove face out? I'm used to windowsill drip ledge planes on a flat surface where your groove would face down to replicate that function.

I have a couple of planes I can use for drawer bottoms, including one moulding with a really skinny cutter (1/16") that I have yet to find a use for. But that's a discussion for another forum. ( Tool hoarders anonymous?)
 

AEAdam

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So do you put the groove face out? I'm used to windowsill drip ledge planes on a flat surface where your groove would face down to replicate that function.

I have a couple of planes I can use for drawer bottoms, including one moulding with a really skinny cutter (1/16") that I have yet to find a use for. But that's a discussion for another forum. ( Tool hoarders anonymous?)
grooved face down, 1/4" groove, 1/8" deep, about 1/4-3/8" in from the edge. You can see an example under the Milwaukee case.

PM me a pic with the skinny plane!

OH: You can cut this exact same feature with the track saw! That's kinda nice. Most modern Tracksaws have some sort of scoring setting, or you can just set the plunge depth to something small like an 1/8". Now the blade's kerf is like a 1/16". But that's just another handle feature of these saws. I also appreciate that the Milwaukee I have has blade depths in inches.
 
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