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'78 F350 Dually Project

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RivennHewn

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Time to show the old dog some love.

The drain plug is directly above the crossmember, with no way to catch the oil cleanly. Visqueen dam and spill kit handy!

Yep, time for an air filter too. Might as well hit it with some carb cleaner while the air filter is off.
And address that low idle.

Then I spotted a PTO cable that came loose causing it to bend up a bit. Straightened that right out.

Better check the tire pressure before I head to fill’er up with some non-ethanol, but had to hit it with the pressure washer first😜
 

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Monza Harry

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My Dad's '72 Econoline Van ['79 may have been too 🤷 ] was similar, as was my '71 Pontiac Ventura, [250"³ straight 6] always a mess! I then even with V8's that followed I would take the ice pick to the filter [after loosening slightly] to direct the stream and reduce the spillage. I made a routine of it, loosening the filter align pan, pull drain plug, puncture filter, grease bottom zerks, replace drain plug, remove empty filter, get up and start at greasing the upper BJ's, add oil as required etc. Necessary procedure as oil drainage from the filter wasn't "quick" Harry
 
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RivennHewn

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Blew up yet another starter🙄

Good thing O’Reilly’s gives them out for free😜

Decided it was time to find the root cause.

I threw in another starter, and got it running again so I could relocate the truck to my driveway. Removed the radiator fan so I could have room to slowly turn the crank with a socket on the crank nut, and inspect the flywheel.

Seems it’s time for a new flywheel.

Finally took a minute to ID the engine.

It’s a D1VE-6015-A2B. Apparently out of a ‘71 Lincoln. Heads stamped D3VE - A2A.

Any of you 460 guys can feel free to fill me in on anything interesting regarding these ancient beast - would be appreciated.

I’m going to work up a job hazard analysis for pulling the ******🫣
 

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rattle_snake

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D1VE block is typical 70s casting. D1 is 1971 but could have been cast long after that. Typical low compression engine.
D3 heads are 70/80s until the EFI heads. Big chambers.

The D0VE head is popular due to smaller chamber for more compression (and rocker studs) but the ports are about the same as a D3. The D0/D3 exhaust port is small and benefits from any type of porting. A ported D3 can support over 500 hp.

In general Ford V8s, including the 460 is exhaust limited. Factory cam has +14 degrees duration over the intake. Most aftermarket cams are 'chevy' type grinds with little to no exhaust split. Any type of exhaust improvement will noticeably help, headers, bigger pipes, free flowing muffler.
 
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RivennHewn

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rattle_snake said:
D1VE block is typical 70s casting. D1 is 1971 but could have been cast long after that. Typical low compression engine.
D3 heads are 70/80s until the EFI heads. Big chambers.

The D0VE head is popular due to smaller chamber for more compression (and rocker studs) but the ports are about the same as a D3. The D0/D3 exhaust port is small and benefits from any type of porting. A ported D3 can support over 500 hp.

In general Ford V8s, including the 460 is exhaust limited. Factory cam has +14 degrees duration over the intake. Most aftermarket cams are 'chevy' type grinds with little to no exhaust split. Any type of exhaust improvement will noticeably help, headers, bigger pipes, free flowing muffler.
Click to expand...
Thanks Snake.

Is it safe to assume 8.5:1 compression. I’m not sure of the date they changed from the higher ratio.

I’d also like to know when they started retarding the timing chain.

I’ve heard the actual manufacturer date is under the intake manifold (I question the logic here) but I haven’t pulled it yet to find out.
 
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rattle_snake

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RivennHewn said:
Thanks Snake.

Is it safe to assume 8.5:1 compression. I’m not sure of the date they changed from the higher ratio.

I’d also like to know when they started retarding the timing chain.

I’ve heard the actual manufacturer date is under the intake manifold (I question the logic here) but I haven’t pulled it yet to find out.
Click to expand...
Static compression ratio in the low 8s. Anything with D3 heads with larger chambers has lower compression ratio. So roughly 72/73. The early performance car engines had flat top pistons in addition to the D0 head. In 73 Ford went to retarded cam timing, then back to straight up in 87 with the EFI version. There are also pistons with different compression heights (pin location to crown) through the years.

In my 460 build I used inexpensive late model efi pistons, block zero decked, with a D3 head for about 9.3:1. 425hp/525tq on 87 octane.
 
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danski0224

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RivennHewn said:
Any of you 460 guys can feel free to fill me in on anything interesting regarding these ancient beast - would be appreciated.

I’m going to work up a job hazard analysis for pulling the ******🫣
Click to expand...
Looks like you have a long term oil leak(s). The inside of the transmission housing is full of oil and debris, as is the rear of the block, and the oil pan gasket looks about ready to pop out.

There is a 1 piece rubber oil pan gasket available with the larger holes for the timing cover bolts. Difficult, at best, to pull the pan with the engine in place, even raised.

An Edelbrock water pump will make a significant difference.

Hopefully that truck came with a 460, because if someone swapped passenger car exhaust manifolds and clearanced the frame on the passenger side, the frame will crack.

Just about the only header that will clear without major work are Hedman 89140 and the coated or heavy duty variants. Can be slipped in from underneath (vehicle on jackstands) without moving the engine.

I'd call these folks for a cam and timing set:

www.camresearchcorp.com

Custom Ford Camshafts | Cam Research Corp

Discover Custom Ford Camshafts by Cam Research Corp. Expertly tailored for Fords, experience unmatched power.
www.camresearchcorp.com

And of course, there are those Edelbrock aluminum heads.
 
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RivennHewn

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danski0224 said:
Looks like you have a long term oil leak(s). The inside of the transmission housing is full of oil and debris, as is the rear of the block, and the oil pan gasket looks about ready to pop out.

There is a 1 piece rubber oil pan gasket available with the larger holes for the timing cover bolts. Difficult, at best, to pull the pan with the engine in place, even raised.

An Edelbrock water pump will make a significant difference.

Hopefully that truck came with a 460, because if someone swapped passenger car exhaust manifolds and clearanced the frame on the passenger side, the frame will crack.

Just about the only header that will clear without major work are Hedman 89140 and the coated or heavy duty variants. Can be slipped in from underneath (vehicle on jackstands) without moving the engine.

I'd call these folks for a cam and timing set:

www.camresearchcorp.com

Custom Ford Camshafts | Cam Research Corp

Discover Custom Ford Camshafts by Cam Research Corp. Expertly tailored for Fords, experience unmatched power.
www.camresearchcorp.com

And of course, there are those Edelbrock aluminum heads.
Click to expand...
Thanks for your reply. Helpful.

The truck is officially a paperweight again.

The 460 is a transplant. And there are a few issues. More on that in another post.

Today starts the tear down, to pull the engine and ******.

*****, but I’ll have better access to the flywheel, rear seal, and heads.

Wish me luck🫣
 
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RivennHewn

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danski0224 said:
Ha.

Gotta pull the engine, pan and crank.

You'll never get the top half of the rope seal out.

Kaase makes a one piece seal retrofit. It doesn't leak.
Click to expand...
😬

Not looking forward to it, but here we go.

So far the biggest frustration is the amount of zip ties to cut off the wire management.

And, taking the time to label them
 

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RivennHewn

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danski0224 said:
Good thing is that truck has maybe 20 wires in the whole harness. 😁
Click to expand...
My skilsaw only has three. 🤪


Was moving slow today, but I kept going.

Got the radiator out, as well as the power steering pump, alternator, plug wires, and more wires.

Plus another round of degreaser.

Thinking I’ll call today a win (no capital W )
 

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RivennHewn

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Doing the 3 day Kroil treatment method of removing exhaust and manifold bolts.

3 shots a day for 3 days😜

Maybe tomorrow I’ll determine socket sizes.

All about pacing yourself
 

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