My 2-Car Porcelain Tile Install....

[eljay]

Is this the official porcelain tile resource thread? May I ask my dumb questions here?

Local HD has this porcelain tile on sale and I'm tempted to "buy now, think later". Especially, now that my wife is actually pushing me to make tiling happen for the garage. Imagine! I may just go buy a case and lay it out to see how I like this one. I'd prefer more uniform look, but this may hide dirt better.
Now, I cannot find any specs on this tile's PEI or CoF ratings. The store associate didn't know either. I'm guessing it must be at least PEI 4.

I was hoping that I would be able to learn and pick away at it as a DIY, but I've never installed tiles, so I'm awaiting a quote from a neighbour's friend. The biggest appeal of DIY (besides the cost) is that I wouldn't have to empty the garage, but can do sections at a time and move shelves/stuff around as I finish sections. Not sure that someone doing it would be that flexible or may charge me more for multiple prep sessions etc.

My garage is 480 sqft and the slab is only 5-years old with just a single long, but thin crack to fill and a couple of oily stains to address. It's a slab on grade house, no basement. There is a 4" MDF baseboard trim all around that I guess will have to go and be replaced with a tile, so I can truly wash the garage out if needed.
Any thoughts on doing this in sections? Or other pointers to start?
Is there a prep I can do myself (besides getting rid of excess stuff from the garage!), or leave everything to a pro?

 

[imjustdave]

not an expert. But lack of specs on this tile's PEI or CoF ratings would be a concern for me as a non expert because I have zero baseline to know if it will or won't work for the application

in terms of install sure they will want it 100% clear but not the first install where customer needs to move stuff. Can't see it impacting costs drastically that much unless your making them move it.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

 

[Dakota00]

Is this the official porcelain tile resource thread? May I ask my dumb questions here?

Local HD has this porcelain tile on sale and I'm tempted to "buy now, think later". Especially, now that my wife is actually pushing me to make tiling happen for the garage. Imagine! I may just go buy a case and lay it out to see how I like this one. I'd prefer more uniform look, but this may hide dirt better.
Now, I cannot find any specs on this tile's PEI or CoF ratings. The store associate didn't know either. I'm guessing it must be at least PEI 4.

I was hoping that I would be able to learn and pick away at it as a DIY, but I've never installed tiles, so I'm awaiting a quote from a neighbour's friend. The biggest appeal of DIY (besides the cost) is that I wouldn't have to empty the garage, but can do sections at a time and move shelves/stuff around as I finish sections. Not sure that someone doing it would be that flexible or may charge me more for multiple prep sessions etc.

My garage is 480 sqft and the slab is only 5-years old with just a single long, but thin crack to fill and a couple of oily stains to address. It's a slab on grade house, no basement. There is a 4" MDF baseboard trim all around that I guess will have to go and be replaced with a tile, so I can truly wash the garage out if needed.
Any thoughts on doing this in sections? Or other pointers to start?
Is there a prep I can do myself (besides getting rid of excess stuff from the garage!), or leave everything to a pro?

I wish I could provide a more definitive answer on the tile you're looking at, I'm coming up short in finding any additional info. So I can't recommend its use in a garage.

If you do get a tile guy to do the job, work with him in completing (tile and grout) one half first and then move all your belongings over to free up the other side to be completed.

As for prep, give the floor a good wash. Any oil stains can be treated with a degreaser. Any fixed items that would need to be moved, make sure they're unbolted from the wall. The 4" baseboard will need to be removed as well.

 

[eljay]

I wish I could provide a more definitive answer on the tile you're looking at, I'm coming up short in finding any additional info. So I can't recommend its use in a garage.

If you do get a tile guy to do the job, work with him in completing (tile and grout) one half first and then move all your belongings over to free up the other side to be completed.

As for prep, give the floor a good wash. Any oil stains can be treated with a degreaser. Any fixed items that would need to be moved, make sure they're unbolted from the wall. The 4" baseboard will need to be removed as well.

Thank you. I started a separate thread, so as not to clutter this one further:
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?p=8737705

I would welcome your input there dakota! Thanks.

 

[Don Nguyen]

Looking at tiling my garage floor and similar to your original posts, I will probably only be able to work on it a few hours every night at a time.

How careful or clean do I need to be around the edges of the tiles that have been laid down with thinset underneath? Do I need to make sure I remove any excess thinset along the edges of the tiles already laid down so that when I resume the project at a later time that there isn't any dried thinset from the previous day?

I would assume the cleaner or minimal amount of dried thinset, the better, but want to see how much wiggle room or how much of a factor it is that I have in this regard.

Thanks!

 

[ace10]

Looking at tiling my garage floor and similar to your original posts, I will probably only be able to work on it a few hours every night at a time.

How careful or clean do I need to be around the edges of the tiles that have been laid down with thinset underneath? Do I need to make sure I remove any excess thinset along the edges of the tiles already laid down so that when I resume the project at a later time that there isn't any dried thinset from the previous day?

I would assume the cleaner or minimal amount of dried thinset, the better, but want to see how much wiggle room or how much of a factor it is that I have in this regard.

Thanks!

Cleaner is better. But if you're using a leveling system, it's not always easy.
And especially if you don't have a helper.

I didn't grout one of my bays for many, many months after the tiles were set. And they're weren't cleaned very well. When I was ready to grout, all the residual thinset came up with an industrial scotch brite pad dipped in a little white vinegar.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196H7BLS/?tag=atomicindus08-20

If you're doing this solo, I wouldn't worry terribly about keeping it totally clean. There's so much other stuff going on. And poorly set tiles are a huge bummer, so focus on that. Buckets are replaceable. Tools. Everything. Just get the tiles are close to perfect as you can.

Good luck.

 

[Dakota00]

Looking at tiling my garage floor and similar to your original posts, I will probably only be able to work on it a few hours every night at a time.

How careful or clean do I need to be around the edges of the tiles that have been laid down with thinset underneath? Do I need to make sure I remove any excess thinset along the edges of the tiles already laid down so that when I resume the project at a later time that there isn't any dried thinset from the previous day?

I would assume the cleaner or minimal amount of dried thinset, the better, but want to see how much wiggle room or how much of a factor it is that I have in this regard.

Thanks!

Ideally the cleaner the better in terms of saving time. With that said, when you go back and continue where you left off the next day. The thinset is not fully cured, so any excess thinset can easily be taken care of using an exacto knife. Run the knife along the edge of the tile cutting through the thinset. Then take a scraper to remove the excess thinset, if needed. This will give you a nice clean edge to continue laying your tiles.

 

[Don Nguyen]

Thanks for the info. Good to know that there is some wiggle room when doing this in multiple steps or over multiple days.

I am going to be doing a wood look tile for the garage floor. IMO, the longer the length of the tile, the better it'll look in the wood style finish. It seems like most are 24" or 36". However, there are some that are 60" or 72" in length. From what I understand, it's not impossible for a first timer to make larger format tiles work out, but realistically speaking, would I be exponentially making it harder on myself by going with such a long time such as 60"/72" over a 24"/36" long tile?

 

[Arkive]

...would I be exponentially making it harder on myself by going with such a long time such as 60"/72" over a 24"/36" long tile?

In terms of effort, probably not, depending on the layout pattern. However, the longer/bigger the tile, the harder it is to get even/full coverage of the thinset without voids. Unless you're really experienced I would do some practice with similarly sized glass pieces so you can test and see your coverage/voids as the tile is almost never the weak point, the voids are.

 

[duneslider]

The bigger the tile is the more difficult it will be to install it correctly and have it look good when you are done. It is much more difficult to get them flat with little lippage. It will even take a pro longer and be more work. I definitely charge more for large format tile. Floor prep is also much more important with larger stuff. You have to have a flat floor to start with. I think something in the 60-72" range will need a floor that is like 1/16" out of flat over 10'. I have never seen a concrete garage that flat...

I am a big believer in cleanup. I always keep a bucket of water and a sponge nearby to wipe tile, edges, joints to keep them clean. Its easy to clean thinset with a sponge and less easy once it is dry and requires tools. Next day is still pretty easy but not as easy as day of when it is still wet. Keep your edges clean and you will be happier.

 

[ace10]

As a home-gamer, I could not even imagine trying to set 5 or 6 foot tile. You'd absolutely need a helper. And, as mentioned, a nearly flat floor.

I wouldn't buy them sight-unseen, either. If they're of poor quality (cupped, wavey, etc) the project would be a nightmare.

$0.02

 

[Don Nguyen]

I figured just as much. At least now I won't ever have to second guess myself once the job is done if I should have tried making the longer tiles work. Just needed that extra affirmation of how much the 60/72" tiles would be to try and do, haha.

 

[shurkai]

Have read and re-read this thread, a lot of great information on here. I have a few questions before I begin my tiling.

I will start with a brief description of the project. I have a new (2 years old) detached garage, 20'x28'. The slab is quite flat, 4000 psi concrete with fiber reinforcement and in excellent condition, no cracks that I have seen. I have control joints dividing the slab in half in both directions, quadrants. I am planning on tiling with porcelain 12"x24" through body PEI5 tiles.

So, now on to the questions, should I use a crack prevention membrane such as Redgard over the entire slab as a precaution for future settling/cracking? As it is a large format tile, would a large format mortar be better suited vs Kerabond/Keralastic?

Thanks!

 

[clamhammer]

Definitely use redgard even on small very small cracks. We only use TEC Superflex on our jobs, its kinda pricey but well worth it. If you are only using 12x24's i wouldnt worry about using a large format thinset. And yes my garage "may" have been inspired by Dakota00 haha.

 

[ChainSaw]

I just wanted to stop in and say "Thanks Dakota!" albeit belatedly.

I read this thread and paid attention to all the advice and recommendations made, and tiled my garage in April of 2020. 600 square feet of large format porcelain tile...my first ever stab at working with tile. Not a single crack or broken tile as of yet.

 

[eljay]

Hey, that tile looks familiar!

I am more than happy with mine.
It held up to 5 months of a car lifted on QuickJack while I refreshed front and rear subframes (by rolling them around on transmission jack), changed fluids, spilled a whole bunch of stuff, sprayed grease everywhere, dropped tools on it etc. All it took was a wipe of paper towel to bring it back to where it was before my repair adventure.

 

[Dakota00]

Very happy to see you gents loving your tiled floors.

 

[bmcons]

I'm not sure if this was already covered, but I could not see in the first 7-10 pages of the thread:

1) Do you need to leave a bit of room for expansion around the perimeter (assuming concrete slab on grade)?

2) Should one use grout or silicone around the perimeter?

3) Do the answers to 1) and 2) change if one chooses to use the same tile for the baseboard (assuming 6x36" tile here)?

Thank you, I appreciate the feedback!

 

[duneslider]

I'm not sure if this was already covered, but I could not see in the first 7-10 pages of the thread:

1) Do you need to leave a bit of room for expansion around the perimeter (assuming concrete slab on grade)?

2) Should one use grout or silicone around the perimeter?

3) Do the answers to 1) and 2) change if one chooses to use the same tile for the baseboard (assuming 6x36" tile here)?

Thank you, I appreciate the feedback!

Technically speaking, You should have a soft joint every ~10 feet and yes to a soft joint around the perimeter. You don't have to fill the perimeter joint. If you do tile baseboard you don't have to fill the joint but make sure it doesn't just fill with thinset or grout or it won't serve the purpose any longer. All changes of plane should be filled with a flexible material. So the joint between the tile base and the floor should be caulked, I have had good luck with some premixed grouts having enough flex to be fine in changes of plane but I think the temp swings in a garage would still cause issues there. I have had the best luck when I leave a gap of 1/16-1/8 between the floor and base and then there is plenty of space for the sealant to go.

 

[bmcons]

Technically speaking, You should have a soft joint every ~10 feet and yes to a soft joint around the perimeter. You don't have to fill the perimeter joint. If you do tile baseboard you don't have to fill the joint but make sure it doesn't just fill with thinset or grout or it won't serve the purpose any longer. All changes of plane should be filled with a flexible material. So the joint between the tile base and the floor should be caulked, I have had good luck with some premixed grouts having enough flex to be fine in changes of plane but I think the temp swings in a garage would still cause issues there. I have had the best luck when I leave a gap of 1/16-1/8 between the floor and base and then there is plenty of space for the sealant to go.

Thank you, this is really helpful! I'll start my project in a couple of weeks. I'll share the results.

 

[nick731]

hey guys, this seems to be the preimier garage tile thread! We were looking to do this to a garage that had epoxy laid prior. Can we lay the tile right on the epoxy or does it need to be removed first? Thanks!

 

[mike93lx]

hey guys, this seems to be the preimier garage tile thread! We were looking to do this to a garage that had epoxy laid prior. Can we lay the tile right on the epoxy or does it need to be removed first? Thanks!

I wouldn't think the thinset will adhere very well to the epoxy and would assume that it needs some grinding

 

[tokyosteve]

Hi folks, I've been reading and referencing this thread for a couple years now. I realize its now over 10 years old (remarkable its still active!) and had slowly been formulating a plan and finally pulled the trigger a couple of months ago in tiling my somewhat complicated garage. Complicated in that it wasn't nearly flat or level. Well, all obstacles were overcome (with a couple of years of pondering each issue - no kidding) and I'm done. Its pretty wild how good it looks. I appreciate all the answers to questions I didn't know I had were all already here in a single place and I returned many a time during the process.

I even video documented the entire process if anyone is interested. Tiling my Garage - Start to Finish

Thanks

 

[tokyosteve]

I wouldn't think the thinset will adhere very well to the epoxy and would assume that it needs some grinding

hey guys, this seems to be the preimier garage tile thread! We were looking to do this to a garage that had epoxy laid prior. Can we lay the tile right on the epoxy or does it need to be removed first? Thanks!

I just did precisely this. Removed epoxy from a 350 sq ft garage before tiling. It actually comes off fairly easily with the right tool. I only spent a couple of hours on it.

 

[duneslider]

hey guys, this seems to be the preimier garage tile thread! We were looking to do this to a garage that had epoxy laid prior. Can we lay the tile right on the epoxy or does it need to be removed first? Thanks!

I wouldn't recommend it. If the epoxy were really well adhered and in great shape you could get away with it maybe. Your tile job will only be as good as the substrate. If that epoxy every starts delaminating (which never happens right) then the tile will too. Not worth the risk in my opinion.

 

[duneslider]

Hi folks, I've been reading and referencing this thread for a couple years now. I realize its now over 10 years old (remarkable its still active!) and had slowly been formulating a plan and finally pulled the trigger a couple of months ago in tiling my somewhat complicated garage. Complicated in that it wasn't nearly flat or level. Well, all obstacles were overcome (with a couple of years of pondering each issue - no kidding) and I'm done. Its pretty wild how good it looks. I appreciate all the answers to questions I didn't know I had were all already here in a single place and I returned many a time during the process.

I even video documented the entire process if anyone is interested. Tiling my Garage - Start to Finish

Thanks

Well Steve, color me super impressed! Floated the whole garage to get it flat, way to go. That is a lot of work but nets a floor that is fantastic to set tile on. Very ambitious for a DIY project but you killed it and it looks great. I couldn't give you enough kudos on your ambition.

I didn't watch the whole video but skipped through it to see it all, you should be very proud of what you did there.

 

[tokyosteve]

Well Steve, color me super impressed! Floated the whole garage to get it flat, way to go. That is a lot of work but nets a floor that is fantastic to set tile on. Very ambitious for a DIY project but you killed it and it looks great. I couldn't give you enough kudos on your ambition.

I didn't watch the whole video but skipped through it to see it all, you should be very proud of what you did there.

Thanks for that. I'm super happy with it. That said, there was more than one moment where I stood back wondering if I'd bitten off too much for a rookie DIY tile guy who had never floated anything before.

 

[TheSauceSpot]

I have read through this thread so many times. Amazing information all around. Great questions asked.

One area I did not see much info on was new slabs- I have just over 1000 sq ft that was poured October 2024. Not quite a full year. It was power trowled when it was poured. I wouldn’t call it polished by any means. Nervous to start tiling to then find out I need to grind the floors now. I do plan to use the aqua defense barrier if that makes a difference at all.

Any more information on installing tiles over new slabs would be greatly appreciated!

 

[duneslider]

I have read through this thread so many times. Amazing information all around. Great questions asked.

One area I did not see much info on was new slabs- I have just over 1000 sq ft that was poured October 2024. Not quite a full year. It was power trowled when it was poured. I wouldn’t call it polished by any means. Nervous to start tiling to then find out I need to grind the floors now. I do plan to use the aqua defense barrier if that makes a difference at all.

Any more information on installing tiles over new slabs would be greatly appreciated!

What is your reasoning for using Aqua Defense?

Installing over concrete that is almost a year old is not a problem. That wouldn't be considered a "new slab". After 28 days you are fine to install tile over concrete.

 

[TheSauceSpot]

What is your reasoning for using Aqua Defense?

Installing over concrete that is almost a year old is not a problem. That wouldn't be considered a "new slab". After 28 days you are fine to install tile over concrete.

Main reason was to avoid moisture down the road. Figured better to be safe than regret not doing it.

I installed pex for a heated floor system in my entire slab. I am not totally sure what’s needed but you did inform me the ditra product would save me from having to do the aqua defense.

 

[mromgcorey]

Is there a goto thinset or grout to use for this sort of project? I live in houston and am wanting to do this to a new home. Is redgaurd the only thing I'll need to roll on before I put thinset on?

 

[mike93lx]

Is there a goto thinset or grout to use for this sort of project? I live in houston and am wanting to do this to a new home. Is redgaurd the only thing I'll need to roll on before I put thinset on?

I've had great experiences with mapei products, but there are other good ones out there.

If you use anything underneath, make sure you follow that manufacturer's instructions with regards to stuff like polymer modifiers

 

[duneslider]

Is there a goto thinset or grout to use for this sort of project? I live in houston and am wanting to do this to a new home. Is redgaurd the only thing I'll need to roll on before I put thinset on?

There isn't a " Go To" thinset, there is a reason all the manufacturers make a dozen different types of thinset. They are application specific. Whats the reason you feel like you need redguard? You would probably be better off starting your own thread with your specific details.

 

[rg9400]

Hello all, I am in the process of starting a new home from scratch, and I came across the recommendation of using porcelain tiles for the garage and was eventually directed to this thread. I made an account just to comment here. I am personally convinced it can make a lot of sense, but my builder has never done it and is worried it is not a good long-term fit compared to epoxy, especially in the Chicagoland area.

I was thinking one of these tiles https://www.msisurfaces.com/ceramic-porcelain-tile/?dynamicfriction=zeroslip+anti-slip, all rated "ZeroSlip" with a DCOF > 0.65 and a PEI rating of 4. I was thinking the Maven Gris to hide snow, slush, and salt, though I like the Ivory/Talc looks more. Since I was going professional install, I was thinking the 24x48 rectified option, but I am not sure if that is more risky. Does this seem like a better option than epoxy?

My contractor sent me the below. Anyone have a good response for him? Maybe evidence that it can last overtime in this type of weather, highlighting install and grout specs that would prevent wear and tear, color staining, and long term cracks? I think the high DCOF covers the slipperiness. I am not entirely sure about the rise of the tiles, but he was highlighting concern that runoff would pool near the garage doors and eventually cause them to rust.

As we discussed this afternoon my concerns would be:

- rise of the tiles on floor
- grout specifications (wear and tear) and color (dirt)
- winter slipperiness
- cracks longer term

Recommend: you talk to someone with this product in the Chicagoland area.

 

[duneslider]

Hello all, I am in the process of starting a new home from scratch, and I came across the recommendation of using porcelain tiles for the garage and was eventually directed to this thread. I made an account just to comment here. I am personally convinced it can make a lot of sense, but my builder has never done it and is worried it is not a good long-term fit compared to epoxy, especially in the Chicagoland area.

I was thinking one of these tiles https://www.msisurfaces.com/ceramic-porcelain-tile/?dynamicfriction=zeroslip+anti-slip, all rated "ZeroSlip" with a DCOF > 0.65 and a PEI rating of 4. I was thinking the Maven Gris to hide snow, slush, and salt, though I like the Ivory/Talc looks more. Since I was going professional install, I was thinking the 24x48 rectified option, but I am not sure if that is more risky. Does this seem like a better option than epoxy?

My contractor sent me the below. Anyone have a good response for him? Maybe evidence that it can last overtime in this type of weather, highlighting install and grout specs that would prevent wear and tear, color staining, and long term cracks? I think the high DCOF covers the slipperiness. I am not entirely sure about the rise of the tiles, but he was highlighting concern that runoff would pool near the garage doors and eventually cause them to rust.

As we discussed this afternoon my concerns would be:

- rise of the tiles on floor
- grout specifications (wear and tear) and color (dirt)
- winter slipperiness
- cracks longer term

Recommend: you talk to someone with this product in the Chicagoland area.

I'm not entirely sure what his concern is. Tile is used throughout the world inside and outside and in wet and dry climates. Obviously, the installation matters in making this successful.

I don't understand the "rise of the tiles on the floor" question? If you have an epoxy floor or tile floor the water is handled the same way. If the garage is sloped to the door then the water will run to door. I see no difference in how this works whether you have concrete, epoxy, or tile.

Normal grout is a portland cement based product and will last just as long as the concrete under the tile. Obviously, grout can get dirty. There are grouts that some may feel hold up better in a garage environment such as epoxy grouts or urethane grouts. I would probably recommend laticrete spectralock pro, or one of the urethane options such as laticrete spectralock 1 or mapei flexcolor cq.

Your tile has a great slip resistance and is a great tile. It won't be a problem in the winter. Obviously, if you have slush on the floor its gonna be slippery but so will epoxy and concrete.

Cracks is an item that needs to be addressed. Control joints need to be honored through the tile, this is a hard one for most people to accept. If you aren't using a membrane over the concrete like Ditra, then you really should wait at least 28 days to install tile. The biggest items to keep in mind are honoring control joints, putting in movement joints as designated, and using good installation practices. One other item you might want to consider is companies like Laticrete will worth with you to put a complete spec together that will lead to success.

I don't know what your budget looks like but porcelain tile isn't the least expensive floor option for a garage, just know that it will be expensive but if you do it right it will last forever.

You might want to consider starting your own thread as you have questions about your specific project.

 

[dscheidt]

worried it is not a good long-term fit compared to epoxy, especially in the Chicagoland area.

You know those tile mosaics you see in the entrances of old storefronts in Chicago? Those are all unglazed solid body porcelain tiles. Most of them are 100 years old, and some 130ish, and
have held up to lots of Chicago winters, lots of salt, and more neglect. Being small format is an advantage when the underlying slab moves, of course, but it should be good evidence that they can last.

@duneslider has good advice, and you really would be better off starting a new thread.

 

[67King]

My contractor sent me the below. Anyone have a good response for him? Maybe evidence that it can last overtime in this type of weather, highlighting install and grout specs that would prevent wear and tear, color staining, and long term cracks? I think the high DCOF covers the slipperiness. I am not entirely sure about the rise of the tiles, but he was highlighting concern that runoff would pool near the garage doors and eventually cause them to rust.

As we discussed this afternoon my concerns would be:

- rise of the tiles on floor
- grout specifications (wear and tear) and color (dirt)
- winter slipperiness
- cracks longer term

Recommend: you talk to someone with this product in the Chicagoland area.

I am about to move into my new home after an obscenely long build. Love my builder, he has been great. But there were a couple of things where what I wanted, or the sub I wanted to use, was not something/someone he knew and trusted. I'd suggest talking to him about you working with a sub directly who will do this. Noting that your builder won't guarantee the tile or potentially the garage floor. Basically, you don't want to "make" your contractor do something he doesn't want to do. If you proceed, and he ends up working with the sub, he may open up to it. Mine did about one of the things we had done, but it was a pretty small thing, compared to the big one (HVAC - though his foreman now wants to use the company I ended up hiring).

 

[Chris M.]

How is it holding up after 12 years?