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Putting tractor on a 2-post lift?

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FTG-05

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Complete Success.

After calling all the family, friends, neighbors, enemies, dictators and serial killers I knew, I came up completely empty. You know it's a bad start to the conversation when I ask someone if they have an "oxy-acetylene torch kit" and their response is "What's that?". And all the rental places are closed today.

So I said fork it, let's try it, it's only $14. I used the "Mapp" cylinder shown above (Post #32) with a HF trigger torch kit (which, by the by, will receive a very good PASS in the HF Pass/Fail thread), but I digress.

I started heating about an inch above the carriage but didn't like the angle, so I moved up to about 6-7" and heated a spot deliberately at the location of a latch notch in the lock ladder. After about 2-3 minutes of heating one side, I got it to a dull red; I then moved to the other side and did the same. I started changing back and forth every 30-45 seconds or so and eventually both sides were dull red. I got not only the flanges red hot but also the web. After about 15 minutes of this, I finally stopped and let it cool for about 2 hours.

As soon as I unscrewed the clamp, I knew that it had resoundedly worked. :giggle:


Left/powered/undamaged side on the first (lowest height) lock (sorry for poor pic, I failed to put a light on it):

IMG_6952 (Large).JPG

Right/unpowered/damaged side lock ladder on the same first (lowest height) lock:

IMG_6951 (Large).JPG

The distance from the top of the lock ladder to the column is a maximum of 1/4". I'm pretty sure that I hit that mark.

For contrast, the previous right/unpowered/damage side lock ladder:

IMG_6916 (Large).JPG

Thanks for all the help.


Next up: My analysis of what caused this issue. But right now, it's Miller Time. :beer:
 
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jetlag

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Good on you for giving it a go with the available tools. :beer: I would only suggest that an oxy/acetylene torch is definitely worth putting into your toolkit. And now that you don't have an immediate need, you can keep an eye out for a deal.
 
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FTG-05

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Thanks!

However, it's funny how all the people that were adamant that it wouldn't work are all suddenly silent.
 

575cat

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So l lifted my 8500lb tracked skid on one of my 9k cheep Triumph 2 post symmetrical hoist is not acceptable ?
 
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finn

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So l lifted my 8500lb tracked skid on one of my 9k cheep Triumph hoist is not acceptable ?
Not if you read the manual that BendPac, Advantage, and presumably other brands provide with their lifts.

BendPac, for example that derates their 9000 lb lift by 50% for a vehicle with a 85” wheelbase.
 
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whateg01

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Thanks!

However, it's funny how all the people that were adamant that it wouldn't work are all suddenly silent.
I'm impressed that you were able to put enough heat into it. I've used a propane pop l torch to heat up 1/4" round and it took a minute to get red hot. I would probably have given up on propane or map-pro after a couple minutes. Probably comes from having acetylene available.
 
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575cat

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chain up the undercarriage the around arms , done done it a couple times for hydraulic lines
 
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FTG-05

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Piece of cake:

IMG_6958 (Large).JPG

IMG_6964 (Large).JPG

I was able to tighten every bolt and nut in sight, most importantly, the FEL mounting bolts. My bet is that the vast majority hadn't seen a wrench since either the factory (basic tractor) or the dealer (for the FEL).

I tightened all the bolts associated with both the engine oil and hydraulic oil, but I still have a hydraulic oil leak. It appears to be coming from the front of the front driveshaft:

IMG_6968 (Large).JPG

How hard to remove and service the seals in this thing:

IMG_6967 (Large).JPG
 
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FTG-05

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Well I must have done something right.

Two days parked Before the lift operation:

IMG_6975 (Large).JPG

Parked 2 days After the lift operation:

IMG_6976 (Large).JPG

It looks like the front oil leak has either completely stopped or at least severely slowed. I still have a leak in my 3 spool Remote Rears valve and at least one hose leaking a bit at the hose ferrule.

I'll take the win!
 

Firebrick43

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Piece of cake:

IMG_6958 (Large).JPG

IMG_6964 (Large).JPG

I was able to tighten every bolt and nut in sight, most importantly, the FEL mounting bolts. My bet is that the vast majority hadn't seen a wrench since either the factory (basic tractor) or the dealer (for the FEL).

I tightened all the bolts associated with both the engine oil and hydraulic oil, but I still have a hydraulic oil leak. It appears to be coming from the front of the front driveshaft:

IMG_6968 (Large).JPG

How hard to remove and service the seals in this thing:

IMG_6967 (Large).JPG
I have seen several tractor bellhousing’s severely damaged by running the loader with the mount bolts loose.
 

NORTON'S SHOP

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^^^theres a good chance the leak is on top anyway.

I blew an o-ring on a valve, easiest way to get to it was to pull the seat and pan. Other options was to pulling rear tire.

Lift wouldn't have helped at all.
Well, therein lies the bigger problem. Flipping the tractor over to get it on the lift could prove to be difficult. :willy_nil :unsure: ;)
 
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