Concealed beam hangers

[billconner]

I'm installing somee headers on my porch addition and am using Simpson concealed beam hangers. (Concealed have flanges turn in rather than to sides if you didn't know.) Mine are triple 2x6.

Using the recommended screw, I measure I have to cut header 3/26" short of post to post clear. In fact I plan to leave the center of the 3 full length - no screws or flange obstructing.

Does this make sense?

 

[PCustoms]

I'm installing somee headers on my porch addition and am using Simpson concealed beam hangers. (Concealed have flanges turn in rather than to sides if you didn't know.) Mine are triple 2x6.

Using the recommended screw, I measure I have to cut header 3/26" short of post to post clear. In fact I plan to leave the center of the 3 full length - no screws or flange obstructing.

Does this make sense?

Do they call out a screw?

I just used the 2x version, IIRC the instructions called for nails only, but one of the marketing pics showed the screws.

Of course I got home and realized it called for the longer nails (all I had was short) so I used GRK construction screws and was able to dimple the hole slightly to almost be flush. My application wasn't very critical, normally I would follow the instructions to a T.

 

[mike93lx]

I feel like a little extra room will be welcome when hoisting a triple 2x6 in place. I'd make all three the same length and add at least an 1/8" room. Does Simpson's install instructions specify anything?

 

[billconner]

I did find a Simpson chart that said I could use their 2 1/2 no 10 screw in place of the 16d nail. I also filled the triangles.

I've been comptemplating putting on 2x6 at a time in hangers. It's a tight squeeze as it is under existing roof overhang. Didn't seem too hard to nail or screw together in place. And with these on both ends not easy to wedge it in.

First project.using hangers - I'm old school - so learning they're not always easy, especially when there are existing instructions over them.

 

[PCustoms]

I did find a Simpson chart that said I could use their 2 1/2 no 10 screw in place of the 16d nail. I also filled the triangles.

Funny, I think this has less holes then the 2x6 variant

I've been comptemplating putting on 2x6 at a time in hangers. It's a tight squeeze as it is under existing roof overhang. Didn't seem too hard to nail or screw together in place. And with these on both ends not easy to wedge it in.

Not a bad idea if working solo or if it's a long beam.

Wet PT?

First project.using hangers - I'm old school - so learning they're not always easy, especially when there are existing instructions over them.

In a lot of cases they may things easier, in some it's a PITA. Some of them are stupid expensive for what they are too

 

[PCustoms]

@billconner I looked again (albeit quickly) and I don't see screws as an approved substitute

 

[theoldwizard1]

I did find a Simpson chart that said I could use their 2 1/2 no 10 screw in place of the 16d nail. I also filled the triangles.

IIRC, Simpson calls out their own brand of structural screw. A plain #10 is not strong enough.

 

[kaymccampbell]

I use the Simpson SD connector screws. One trip with the nails sold me on the screws.

 

[PCustoms]

IIRC, Simpson calls out their own brand of structural screw. A plain #10 is not strong enough.

Did you even read what you quoted?

I did find a Simpson chart that said I could use their 2 1/2 no 10 screw in place of the 16d nail. I also filled the triangles.

 

[billconner]

I should add this is to a porch post so squeezing the header in will just push the post out of plumb.

Solo but just a ch under 8'. (I did preassemble a 14' one with 2 layers of 1/2 ply and lifted it into place but it sat on top of posts.)

Not PT. Really nice SPF. I was impressed with how clean and straight it was

Somewhere on Simpson site I found a chart - not for this hanger but in general. I think it derated it some small fraction. Was not a problem.

And several posts after I wrote this - following up.

 

[rlitman]

@billconner I looked again (albeit quickly) and I don't see screws as an approved substitute

It's these screws:

Strong-Drive® SD CONNECTOR Screw

Specifically designed to replace nails in many popular Simpson Strong‑Tie connectors, these screws are easier and more convenient to install than nails in certain applications.

www.strongtie.com

 

[billconner]

My condition is all about deflection, not bending. It carries the side of a hip roof - 7x7 triangle - half of which is carried by hip rafter. I think I would have been fine toe nailing the header. And as I said Simpson chart provided derating factors.

 

[PCustoms]

I should add this is to a porch post so squeezing the header in will just push the post out of plumb.

What is it holding up?

Triple 2x for an 8' span seems robust...

Somewhere on Simpson site I found a chart - not for this hanger but in general. I think it derated it some small fraction. Was not a problem.

I vaguely remember seeing the chart, but I thought it was to defer to specific instructions.

It's these screws:

Strong-Drive® SD CONNECTOR Screw

Specifically designed to replace nails in many popular Simpson Strong‑Tie connectors, these screws are easier and more convenient to install than nails in certain applications.

www.strongtie.com

I know...(See comments above)

 

[PCustoms]

My condition is all about deflection, not bending.

Unless I'm missing something, those are the same?

 

[Viper98912]

When I used this type of hanger, I only used the nails; I didn't think screws were allowed on the inside due to the head size. I thought their simpson screws could only be used on the outside faces

 

[PCustoms]

I vaguely remember seeing the chart, but I thought it was to defer to specific instructions.

When I used this type of hanger, I only used the nails; I didn't think screws were allowed on the inside due to the head size. I thought their simpson screws could only be used on the outside faces

Straight from their site:

 

[billconner]

To me bending has to do with failure from the load, and deflection is how much it says under maximum allowable load.

 

[billconner]

Hope you can see hangers in photos. About to cut 2x6s.

It's not like the flange and nail head won't affect length, just how much. Concealed hangers.

Close to a single 2x6 would have carried load - more about matching existing look and looking right sitting on top of posts.

If you're maxing out a hangers rated load, you should not rely on my say so.

And yes - these hangers were around $25 each.

 

[billconner]

Found the damn chart.

https://www.dhcsupplies.com/pdf/data/fastener_information.pdf

The HUC series is face mount.

Derate to 83%. As I said, I'm way below that. Plus I used triangles.

Beside AI says it's fine.

 

[billconner]

Misspoke. No derating for using a 2 1/2 #20 in place of a 16d nail.

All up. Start roof framing tomorrow. Been a while.

 

[PCustoms]

Start roof framing tomorrow. Been a while.

I'm familiar with that....

Usually by the time I'm in a rhythm I'm done. Part of me wishes I was doing it full time.

 

[billconner]

I'm familiar with that....

Usually by the time I'm in a rhythm I'm done. Part of me wishes I was doing it full time.

It's a hip addition of an existing 4:12 roof, and will be a little less than 4:12. I want ridge to be at same a particulat height - basically where existing roof hits wall of house. So a lot of measuring and probably temporarily "posting" up a ridge.

Looking ahead trying to decide if I should reduce exposure on hip section to get coursing to align. Probably won't. No place except our 2nd story bedroom window that you can see roof and planning galvanized 'W" valleys.