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What did you do "IN" your garage today?

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pancholasvegas

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 6, 2017
Messages
252
In for a penny, in for a pound. While the filler primer is curing off, I worked on addressing the bent dented up hood ornament for the pedal car.

IMG_3609.jpeg

Not sure what happened to this thing, but sitting on the hood it looks quite bad so I thought I’d see if I could clean it up a bit.

Pretty thin and delicate stuff but it worked out alright. IMG_3614.jpeg

Got some bits to get ready for the powder coat shop - I’ll be working on getting the primer sanded out and a couple spots glazed next.
 

Outlawmws

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,285
Location
The Badlands
Welded up the hitch parts, and spray bombed it. In 2-3 hours I'll bolt it back up In the mean time I put stuff away. Amazing how much stuff I dragged out to do this thing...

Welder got the hiccups and that took 30-40 minutes to get sorted out. I've never had a wire weld itself to the feed coil...

Break time for a bit, then more put away.
 

Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,906
Location
Far NE Oregon
Welded up the hitch parts, and spray bombed it. In 2-3 hours I'll bolt it back up In the mean time I put stuff away. Amazing how much stuff I dragged out to do this thing...

Welder got the hiccups and that took 30-40 minutes to get sorted out. I've never had a wire weld itself to the feed coil...

Break time for a bit, then more put away.
Is this a spool gun or an integrated feed?

The spool on the Millermatic is not grounded--not sure how that would happen without something sorting from the case to the spool.
 

2001ZR2

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 4, 2018
Messages
415
Location
Kansas City
Yesterday was in full estate sale mode and one of the treasures I got was a S-K 13/16" spark plug socket and I wanted to change the plug on my pressure washer...13/16" so grabbed the S-K ratchet that was in the Thorsen box I bought a few weeks back. Resting a few minutes before I finish washing the patio chair for the third time. The lichen and moss is fighting hard but slowly losing ground.

Sorted thru the 4 bags of sockets I grabbed yesterday and got some Blackhawk Sockets and S-K but mostly USA made Stanley, Powr Kraft, and Benchtop. One Snap On socket but some Plomb, along with Misc Armstrong, Proto, Industro and NAPA.

Also got a set of Hinsdale offset SAE wrenches along with Wizard sockets.

For the thread checker I bought a board like they have at the hardware store...need to hang it as I saw it today before it vanishes.

Around the house loaded up my wife's truck for the Hazard Waste run tomorrow. Just under the 30 gallon limit with the old paint the previous two owners left behind.
 

Fordguy1964

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 3, 2015
Messages
3,915
Location
Houston County, Alabama
Well next Wednesday is the date that they start the spray foam on my garage ceiling. So I figured I better get busy and put the second exhaust fan in. It flows so much air in there now that I am almost rethinking the insulation... almost. LOL. I got home from work and start to finish it was done in 2.5 hours. I'm getting good at this.
1000055604.jpg
1000055603.jpg
Once the insulation is done it is time to pressure wash the side of the garage. Looking pretty nasty. Anyone know of any good painted steel cleaners that will get this stuff off?

My insulation installer said that they can't spray the foam if the humidity is high. He said it won't stick to the metal. Anyone else heard of this before or is he just pushing me down his list?
 

Outlawmws

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,285
Location
The Badlands
Is this a spool gun or an integrated feed?

The spool on the Millermatic is not grounded--not sure how that would happen without something sorting from the case to the spool.
Not a spool gun. It is a Lincoln SP-125 Plus, and the spool is inside the box. I'll have to go look to see if the sheath is isolated or supposed to be...

I have a bad habit of getting the tip in too close, and since I use flux core for better penetration, I haven't had the gas shield on it in years.

I'm also running it really high right now as this hitch material is heavy and I'm preheating the material to boot...
 

Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,906
Location
Far NE Oregon
Back to the battle of the Rinnais.

I replaced the primary heat exchangers and burners--what, two weeks ago?--and now I can't heat water above 170 on one of them and 155 on the other. The one that has the lower limit gives me a 10 code, which is burner obstruction--vent flue, etc. So today I tore the coaxial vent/intake lines off both of them and deep-cleaned them.

54771350877_dfe382b2c2_o.jpg

That took care of the morning. When I got back from lunch, same problem. :(

It's gotta be the new burner, right? The old burners still work fine, but the ceramic flame plates are falling apart. I replaced the burners because you can't just buy new flame plates, but have to buy the whole thing.

Easy peasy--just gotta do some more thoracic surgery.

54772435838_116b57e15c_o.jpg

All that's gotta come out--again. The burner is the top of the stack so I don't need to take the whole thing apart, but the work cannot be done with that stuff installed.

Now, to the eye, both the new and old look identical, but there has to be a difference, so off come the burner plates of the old burner

54771350882_47511d4900_o.jpg

and in with the new:

54772435808_fcafe8b38c_o.jpg

I got it all in by three PM and...

same damned problem. I have no idea what to do at this point. Both heaters would go all the way to 185 without problem before the latest rebuild, which I've done several times now. The units don't connect to the internet, so no surprise "updates". All the sensors are the same as before. I'm stumped.

Beer thirty.
 

rd65

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 29, 2017
Messages
2,796
Location
Granite Falls, WA
Finished up the wiring for the sink outlets. No bright flashes so must've done it right enough. A quick, cool off beer, then get myself cleaned up for Sunday dinner with the kids and grands. Shop cleanup will be tomorrow after work. Tools from this project and yesterday's radiator RR are everywhere, along with loose insulation.
 

kaymccampbell

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 27, 2015
Messages
29,582
Location
Upstate New York
I need one of those. Suggestion on brand?
I've got this one. It had the most checkers.
 

kaymccampbell

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 27, 2015
Messages
29,582
Location
Upstate New York
Not a spool gun. It is a Lincoln SP-125 Plus, and the spool is inside the box. I'll have to go look to see if the sheath is isolated or supposed to be...

I have a bad habit of getting the tip in too close, and since I use flux core for better penetration, I haven't had the gas shield on it in years.

I'm also running it really high right now as this hitch material is heavy and I'm preheating the material to boot...
It's possible that the inner most end of the wire is rubbing on the hub. I've had it happen. It trained me to snip off any extraneous bits of wire protruding into the center of the reel.
 

kaymccampbell

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 27, 2015
Messages
29,582
Location
Upstate New York
Back to the battle of the Rinnais.

I replaced the primary heat exchangers and burners--what, two weeks ago?--and now I can't heat water above 170 on one of them and 155 on the other. The one that has the lower limit gives me a 10 code, which is burner obstruction--vent flue, etc. So today I tore the coaxial vent/intake lines off both of them and deep-cleaned them.

54771350877_dfe382b2c2_o.jpg

That took care of the morning. When I got back from lunch, same problem. :(

It's gotta be the new burner, right? The old burners still work fine, but the ceramic flame plates are falling apart. I replaced the burners because you can't just buy new flame plates, but have to buy the whole thing.

Easy peasy--just gotta do some more thoracic surgery.

54772435838_116b57e15c_o.jpg

All that's gotta come out--again. The burner is the top of the stack so I don't need to take the whole thing apart, but the work cannot be done with that stuff installed.

Now, to the eye, both the new and old look identical, but there has to be a difference, so off come the burner plates of the old burner

54771350882_47511d4900_o.jpg

and in with the new:

54772435808_fcafe8b38c_o.jpg

I got it all in by three PM and...

same damned problem. I have no idea what to do at this point. Both heaters would go all the way to 185 without problem before the latest rebuild, which I've done several times now. The units don't connect to the internet, so no surprise "updates". All the sensors are the same as before. I'm stumped.

Beer thirty.
Blockage in the intake or exhaust? **** in the gas line? I've seen spiderwebs do in boilers.
 
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KwikFab

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 27, 2024
Messages
1,209
Location
Central Valley, CA
I actually find welding to be relaxing so, I spent a few minutes welding up the 20 tabs for mounting the top; she's all done

20250907_112439.jpg

20250907_132935.jpg

20250907_140724.jpg

20250907_141351.jpg

As for my friend, he's nearly finished with one of the tops. Said all it needs is a clear coat.

IMG_2974(1).jpg

He's going to work on the second one this week and should be done by Friday!
 

Old Man Roger

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 6, 2017
Messages
17,691
Location
Palm Coast Florida
Welded up the hitch parts, and spray bombed it. In 2-3 hours I'll bolt it back up In the mean time I put stuff away. Amazing how much stuff I dragged out to do this thing...

Welder got the hiccups and that took 30-40 minutes to get sorted out. I've never had a wire weld itself to the feed coil...

Break time for a bit, then more put away.
Is it possible you just boogered up the tip so bad the wire couldn’t feed, and the feed wheel just ate through the wire Like a grinding wheel?
 

Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,906
Location
Far NE Oregon
Blockage in the intake or exhaust? **** in the gas line? I've seen spiderwebs do in boilers.
As reported above, I disassembled and deep cleaned every inch of the intake/exhaust coax tube, lubed the gaskets and made sure everything was tight when reassembled.

I haven't opened the gas lines. I guess pulling the caps from the dirt legs might be a good place to start.

What's weird, 'though, is that it's temperature-related. The codes I'm getting all indicate breathing problems which seem to me should happen at any temp, not just a the higher temps.

I currently have both working fine, but one is set to 155F and one to 170F. W ran them at 185 for many years. By having the higher temp water, we can mix down to brewing temps and make more wort from each fill of the hot water tank--speeding things up a lot.
 

Fixr

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 23, 2012
Messages
9,708
Location
SW VA
As reported above, I disassembled and deep cleaned every inch of the intake/exhaust coax tube, lubed the gaskets and made sure everything was tight when reassembled.

I haven't opened the gas lines. I guess pulling the caps from the dirt legs might be a good place to start.

What's weird, 'though, is that it's temperature-related. The codes I'm getting all indicate breathing problems which seem to me should happen at any temp, not just a the higher temps.

I currently have both working fine, but one is set to 155F and one to 170F. W ran them at 185 for many years. By having the higher temp water, we can mix down to brewing temps and make more wort from each fill of the hot water tank--speeding things up a lot.
Is it possible that your equipment is getting a bit past its "use by" date?
 

kaymccampbell

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 27, 2015
Messages
29,582
Location
Upstate New York
As reported above, I disassembled and deep cleaned every inch of the intake/exhaust coax tube, lubed the gaskets and made sure everything was tight when reassembled.

I haven't opened the gas lines. I guess pulling the caps from the dirt legs might be a good place to start.

What's weird, 'though, is that it's temperature-related. The codes I'm getting all indicate breathing problems which seem to me should happen at any temp, not just a the higher temps.

I currently have both working fine, but one is set to 155F and one to 170F. W ran them at 185 for many years. By having the higher temp water, we can mix down to brewing temps and make more wort from each fill of the hot water tank--speeding things up a lot.
Oops, missed that bit. I hate coaxial. Is it possible you've got an internal exhaust leak?
 

PWC Repair

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 27, 2012
Messages
3,186
Location
Arkansas
Today I pulled in my Xterra tow pig because it coughed and died on the way home one day last week. I could hear the fuel pump so I ran the code scanner..........cam sensor. Ok pulled off the distributor cap and cranked it over.........DAMN, that there rotor bug aint spinnin'!! Pulled everything off the front,..BINGO!! Snapped timing belt. Guess I need to order some parts. Water pump looked great still, obviously going to replace it. Radiator has an '04 date code and nissan stamping as did the A/C belt........original 21 year old parts!
 

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Old Man Roger

Well-known member
Joined
Apr 6, 2017
Messages
17,691
Location
Palm Coast Florida
Today I pulled in my Xterra tow pig because it coughed and died on the way home one day last week. I could hear the fuel pump so I ran the code scanner..........cam sensor. Ok pulled off the distributor cap and cranked it over.........DAMN, that there rotor bug aint spinnin'!! Pulled everything off the front,..BINGO!! Snapped timing belt. Guess I need to order some parts. Water pump looked great still, obviously going to replace it. Radiator has an '04 date code and nissan stamping as did the A/C belt........original 21 year old parts!
I know I’m probably asking a stupid question, because you know engines, but that’s not an interference engine is it? Hate to see you buy a bunch of parts if there’s bent valves and a hole in a piston.
 

Gangly

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 9, 2025
Messages
281
Location
The Woodlands, Texas
I've got this one. It had the most checkers.
Thanks!
 

GrayFlattop

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 18, 2018
Messages
1,051
Location
Chicago
As reported above, I disassembled and deep cleaned every inch of the intake/exhaust coax tube, lubed the gaskets and made sure everything was tight when reassembled.

I haven't opened the gas lines. I guess pulling the caps from the dirt legs might be a good place to start.

What's weird, 'though, is that it's temperature-related. The codes I'm getting all indicate breathing problems which seem to me should happen at any temp, not just a the higher temps.

I currently have both working fine, but one is set to 155F and one to 170F. W ran them at 185 for many years. By having the higher temp water, we can mix down to brewing temps and make more wort from each fill of the hot water tank--speeding things up a lot.
I know it’s a stretch, but on the thread of gas supply - perhaps you could swap the gas valves from one unit to the other and see if the problem moves. I know, I know, gas valves never go bad, but I had one boiler that would seemingly eat gas valves. I could come up with no reasonable explanation. That line had a substantial drip leg and was piped with new pipe and fittings. No water, no rust. More likely that supplier of gas valves produced a few lots where the clearances were too tight and they got fouled easily. Not at all certain that could be your issue, but it seems that you have chased down the issue pretty well. Can you get a gas pressure reading from a service port? Maybe a bum regulator?



Regardless, if this creates production issues, you might want to start planning the next upgrade. I know what it’s like to have invested heavily in a given device. I have bins of parts for Laars Heatmaker boilers - even after I moved on.
 

Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,906
Location
Far NE Oregon
Is it possible that your equipment is getting a bit past its "use by" date?
I've replaced everything but the carcass--several times. It's essentially new right now.
Oops, missed that bit. I hate coaxial. Is it possible you've got an internal exhaust leak?
One of the reasons I took the entire flue system apart today. I've also opened the intakes that use room air. No difference.

It's gotta be a sensor--but which one? Rinnai has a "top secret" tech manual that I can't get my grubby little hands on with things like ladder logic diagrams and sensor test readings, so my only option is to just start swapping them. Fortunately, I have spares of all.
 

Outlawmws

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 9, 2011
Messages
39,285
Location
The Badlands
Welded up the hitch parts, and spray bombed it. In 2-3 hours I'll bolt it back up In the mean time I put stuff away. Amazing how much stuff I dragged out to do this thing...

Welder got the hiccups and that took 30-40 minutes to get sorted out. I've never had a wire weld itself to the feed coil...

Break time for a bit, then more put away.

Paint dried - I had minimal "Weld Warp" and all the bolts fit with minimal persuasion needed, tight fits in 2 of four of them not matter what. getting the nuts tight was a bigger pain, especially on the non. muffler side surprisingly.

Scratched the new paint doing it but that was expected and again its only a Spray bomb job I'l touch up adn needed to for the jackl stand parts anyway, but It'l get scratched again.


Tvan Hitch.jpg

A 2" receiver is way overkill for this rig but It was there and was the best fit even after mods.

Is it possible you just boogered up the tip so bad the wire couldn’t feed, and the feed wheel just ate through the wire Like a grinding wheel?

Tip is beat to hell and back but the inside is doing just fine.
 

Beerhippie

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 13, 2023
Messages
9,906
Location
Far NE Oregon
I know it’s a stretch, but on the thread of gas supply - perhaps you could swap the gas valves from one unit to the other and see if the problem moves. I know, I know, gas valves never go bad, but I had one boiler that would seemingly eat gas valves. I could come up with no reasonable explanation. That line had a substantial drip leg and was piped with new pipe and fittings. No water, no rust. More likely that supplier of gas valves produced a few lots where the clearances were too tight and they got fouled easily. Not at all certain that could be your issue, but it seems that you have chased down the issue pretty well. Can you get a gas pressure reading from a service port? Maybe a bum regulator?



Regardless, if this creates production issues, you might want to start planning the next upgrade. I know what it’s like to have invested heavily in a given device. I have bins of parts for Laars Heatmaker boilers - even after I moved on.
I'm entirely open to any ideas for other ways to heat a 1,200 gallon tank with propane. Altering the tank itself is not a good option--nor is direct steam injection. That would just make the boiler the problem.
 

Jgaz

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 16, 2016
Messages
1,681
Location
AZ
Processed my frame stock today from 8/4 cherry.
Final dimensions 1 3/4 x 1 3/4 x 40”.
10 blanks sized. Rabbets cut in 8.
Still needs round over work and some finish sanding but first I need to sharpen my block plane.
IMG_5747.jpeg
The mini split and MRN (Motor Racing Network) made this possible today with the temps around 100*
 

kaymccampbell

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 27, 2015
Messages
29,582
Location
Upstate New York
I've replaced everything but the carcass--several times. It's essentially new right now.

One of the reasons I took the entire flue system apart today. I've also opened the intakes that use room air. No difference.

It's gotta be a sensor--but which one? Rinnai has a "top secret" tech manual that I can't get my grubby little hands on with things like ladder logic diagrams and sensor test readings, so my only option is to just start swapping them. Fortunately, I have spares of all.
If you search for "Rinnai Water heater diagnostic trees" you'll get a lot of factory PDFs. Maybe some of those?
 
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