JEFFREYWisconsin
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 9, 2021
- Messages
- 380


Sam's ClubWish my birthday was in September. January pretty much ***** for camping. Well hope this year is a trip somewhere for it (highly doubtful) or I just fire up the bronco and drive it that day.
That looks like the one I been looking at For my shop too. Home Depot?
Not sure what happened to this thing, but sitting on the hood it looks quite bad so I thought I’d see if I could clean it up a bit.
Pretty thin and delicate stuff but it worked out alright.
Is this a spool gun or an integrated feed?Welded up the hitch parts, and spray bombed it. In 2-3 hours I'll bolt it back up In the mean time I put stuff away. Amazing how much stuff I dragged out to do this thing...
Welder got the hiccups and that took 30-40 minutes to get sorted out. I've never had a wire weld itself to the feed coil...
Break time for a bit, then more put away.
It appears to be pretty thin steel sheet that’s stamped. I kept it pretty hot while I was working it to try to keep things together.I'm very surprised it didn't break, it looks like pot metal.
40475 Richmond Ky.Where are you located?


Not a spool gun. It is a Lincoln SP-125 Plus, and the spool is inside the box. I'll have to go look to see if the sheath is isolated or supposed to be...Is this a spool gun or an integrated feed?
The spool on the Millermatic is not grounded--not sure how that would happen without something sorting from the case to the spool.




I've got this one. It had the most checkers.I need one of those. Suggestion on brand?
It's possible that the inner most end of the wire is rubbing on the hub. I've had it happen. It trained me to snip off any extraneous bits of wire protruding into the center of the reel.Not a spool gun. It is a Lincoln SP-125 Plus, and the spool is inside the box. I'll have to go look to see if the sheath is isolated or supposed to be...
I have a bad habit of getting the tip in too close, and since I use flux core for better penetration, I haven't had the gas shield on it in years.
I'm also running it really high right now as this hitch material is heavy and I'm preheating the material to boot...
Blockage in the intake or exhaust? **** in the gas line? I've seen spiderwebs do in boilers.Back to the battle of the Rinnais.
I replaced the primary heat exchangers and burners--what, two weeks ago?--and now I can't heat water above 170 on one of them and 155 on the other. The one that has the lower limit gives me a 10 code, which is burner obstruction--vent flue, etc. So today I tore the coaxial vent/intake lines off both of them and deep-cleaned them.
That took care of the morning. When I got back from lunch, same problem.
It's gotta be the new burner, right? The old burners still work fine, but the ceramic flame plates are falling apart. I replaced the burners because you can't just buy new flame plates, but have to buy the whole thing.
Easy peasy--just gotta do some more thoracic surgery.
All that's gotta come out--again. The burner is the top of the stack so I don't need to take the whole thing apart, but the work cannot be done with that stuff installed.
Now, to the eye, both the new and old look identical, but there has to be a difference, so off come the burner plates of the old burner
and in with the new:
I got it all in by three PM and...
same damned problem. I have no idea what to do at this point. Both heaters would go all the way to 185 without problem before the latest rebuild, which I've done several times now. The units don't connect to the internet, so no surprise "updates". All the sensors are the same as before. I'm stumped.
Beer thirty.
That seems like a bit too far away to drive to buy a lawnmower that will be abused on a rocky property. But it sure looks nice and light.40475 Richmond Ky.
It happens. Not a bad thing to pack it in and reboot in the morning.Unwrapped parts. Tried to work, but ran out of energy.
Is it possible you just boogered up the tip so bad the wire couldn’t feed, and the feed wheel just ate through the wire Like a grinding wheel?Welded up the hitch parts, and spray bombed it. In 2-3 hours I'll bolt it back up In the mean time I put stuff away. Amazing how much stuff I dragged out to do this thing...
Welder got the hiccups and that took 30-40 minutes to get sorted out. I've never had a wire weld itself to the feed coil...
Break time for a bit, then more put away.
As reported above, I disassembled and deep cleaned every inch of the intake/exhaust coax tube, lubed the gaskets and made sure everything was tight when reassembled.Blockage in the intake or exhaust? **** in the gas line? I've seen spiderwebs do in boilers.
Is it possible that your equipment is getting a bit past its "use by" date?As reported above, I disassembled and deep cleaned every inch of the intake/exhaust coax tube, lubed the gaskets and made sure everything was tight when reassembled.
I haven't opened the gas lines. I guess pulling the caps from the dirt legs might be a good place to start.
What's weird, 'though, is that it's temperature-related. The codes I'm getting all indicate breathing problems which seem to me should happen at any temp, not just a the higher temps.
I currently have both working fine, but one is set to 155F and one to 170F. W ran them at 185 for many years. By having the higher temp water, we can mix down to brewing temps and make more wort from each fill of the hot water tank--speeding things up a lot.
Oops, missed that bit. I hate coaxial. Is it possible you've got an internal exhaust leak?As reported above, I disassembled and deep cleaned every inch of the intake/exhaust coax tube, lubed the gaskets and made sure everything was tight when reassembled.
I haven't opened the gas lines. I guess pulling the caps from the dirt legs might be a good place to start.
What's weird, 'though, is that it's temperature-related. The codes I'm getting all indicate breathing problems which seem to me should happen at any temp, not just a the higher temps.
I currently have both working fine, but one is set to 155F and one to 170F. W ran them at 185 for many years. By having the higher temp water, we can mix down to brewing temps and make more wort from each fill of the hot water tank--speeding things up a lot.
I know I’m probably asking a stupid question, because you know engines, but that’s not an interference engine is it? Hate to see you buy a bunch of parts if there’s bent valves and a hole in a piston.Today I pulled in my Xterra tow pig because it coughed and died on the way home one day last week. I could hear the fuel pump so I ran the code scanner..........cam sensor. Ok pulled off the distributor cap and cranked it over.........DAMN, that there rotor bug aint spinnin'!! Pulled everything off the front,..BINGO!! Snapped timing belt. Guess I need to order some parts. Water pump looked great still, obviously going to replace it. Radiator has an '04 date code and nissan stamping as did the A/C belt........original 21 year old parts!
Thanks!I've got this one. It had the most checkers.
Nut and Bolt Thread Checker 45 Male/Female Thread Gauges (24 SAE/Inch & 21 Metric) Nut and Bolt Thread Size Checker Thread Identifier Gauges for Quickly Identify and Verify: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
Nut and Bolt Thread Checker 45 Male/Female Thread Gauges (24 SAE/Inch & 21 Metric) Nut and Bolt Thread Size Checker Thread Identifier Gauges for Quickly Identify and Verify: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientificwww.amazon.com
I know it’s a stretch, but on the thread of gas supply - perhaps you could swap the gas valves from one unit to the other and see if the problem moves. I know, I know, gas valves never go bad, but I had one boiler that would seemingly eat gas valves. I could come up with no reasonable explanation. That line had a substantial drip leg and was piped with new pipe and fittings. No water, no rust. More likely that supplier of gas valves produced a few lots where the clearances were too tight and they got fouled easily. Not at all certain that could be your issue, but it seems that you have chased down the issue pretty well. Can you get a gas pressure reading from a service port? Maybe a bum regulator?As reported above, I disassembled and deep cleaned every inch of the intake/exhaust coax tube, lubed the gaskets and made sure everything was tight when reassembled.
I haven't opened the gas lines. I guess pulling the caps from the dirt legs might be a good place to start.
What's weird, 'though, is that it's temperature-related. The codes I'm getting all indicate breathing problems which seem to me should happen at any temp, not just a the higher temps.
I currently have both working fine, but one is set to 155F and one to 170F. W ran them at 185 for many years. By having the higher temp water, we can mix down to brewing temps and make more wort from each fill of the hot water tank--speeding things up a lot.
I've replaced everything but the carcass--several times. It's essentially new right now.Is it possible that your equipment is getting a bit past its "use by" date?
One of the reasons I took the entire flue system apart today. I've also opened the intakes that use room air. No difference.Oops, missed that bit. I hate coaxial. Is it possible you've got an internal exhaust leak?
Welded up the hitch parts, and spray bombed it. In 2-3 hours I'll bolt it back up In the mean time I put stuff away. Amazing how much stuff I dragged out to do this thing...
Welder got the hiccups and that took 30-40 minutes to get sorted out. I've never had a wire weld itself to the feed coil...
Break time for a bit, then more put away.

Is it possible you just boogered up the tip so bad the wire couldn’t feed, and the feed wheel just ate through the wire Like a grinding wheel?
I'm entirely open to any ideas for other ways to heat a 1,200 gallon tank with propane. Altering the tank itself is not a good option--nor is direct steam injection. That would just make the boiler the problem.I know it’s a stretch, but on the thread of gas supply - perhaps you could swap the gas valves from one unit to the other and see if the problem moves. I know, I know, gas valves never go bad, but I had one boiler that would seemingly eat gas valves. I could come up with no reasonable explanation. That line had a substantial drip leg and was piped with new pipe and fittings. No water, no rust. More likely that supplier of gas valves produced a few lots where the clearances were too tight and they got fouled easily. Not at all certain that could be your issue, but it seems that you have chased down the issue pretty well. Can you get a gas pressure reading from a service port? Maybe a bum regulator?
Regardless, if this creates production issues, you might want to start planning the next upgrade. I know what it’s like to have invested heavily in a given device. I have bins of parts for Laars Heatmaker boilers - even after I moved on.
Sometimes an old tip is more susceptible to burn back. It can cause the wire to temporarily stick to the tip. Once that happens the feed spool can grind into the wire, more likely to happen with flux core.Tip is beat to hell and back but the inside is doing just fine.

That looks like a 3.3. IIRC those were non-interference.I know I’m probably asking a stupid question, because you know engines, but that’s not an interference engine is it? Hate to see you buy a bunch of parts if there’s bent valves and a hole in a piston.
If you search for "Rinnai Water heater diagnostic trees" you'll get a lot of factory PDFs. Maybe some of those?I've replaced everything but the carcass--several times. It's essentially new right now.
One of the reasons I took the entire flue system apart today. I've also opened the intakes that use room air. No difference.
It's gotta be a sensor--but which one? Rinnai has a "top secret" tech manual that I can't get my grubby little hands on with things like ladder logic diagrams and sensor test readings, so my only option is to just start swapping them. Fortunately, I have spares of all.
